Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

MaxYields said:
Awesome, you're the man Doc. Is it alright if the soil gets cold? Or do I have to keep it stored at 68*+ all winter? :cheesygrinsmiley:
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No problem if it gets cold.....you're gonna wake it up before you use it.
 
Doc Bud said:
No problem if it gets cold.....you're gonna wake it up before you use it.
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Thats what I figured the Roots and EWC were for... I vaguely remembered reading somewhere in one of your journals that the Soil Community goes dormant... it doesn't die. Just wanted to double check here. Thanks for all of the help! :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Just curios why you would need to bring the soil in during the winter. Couldn't you just leave it in place and then amend in the spring or is it so you can have it ready to use sooner since the month recook?

I have a plant i'm gonna cull tonight by by just cutting the plant off at soil level and stick some cuttings right into its pot. I have good luck with cloning right into HB soil but was thinking this might be even better since the roots and all that fun stuff I don't really understand are already established in the soil.

Nice Harvest Mike! :high-five:

:passitleft:
 
MaxYields said:
Thats what I figured the Roots and EWC were for... I vaguely remembered reading somewhere in one of your journals that the Soil Community goes dormant... it doesn't die. Just wanted to double check here. Thanks for all of the help! :cheesygrinsmiley:
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That piqued my interest so I went looking.

https://https://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/212.html

The pertinent excerpt:

"Soil organisms are naturally active during certain times of the year. Most are active when the soil is warm and moist, like during late spring and early summer. If the soil dries out during the summer months, soil organism activity naturally declines. During fall, if there is rain or snow that moistens the soil while it is still warm, soil organisms may resume partial activity. As the soil cools in the fall, many soil organisms go dormant. Gardeners should note that fertilizers that require processing by soil organisms will be more available to plants when the soil is warm and moist and less available when the soil is cool or dry. "
 
SweetSue said:
That piqued my interest so I went looking.

https://https://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/212.html

The pertinent excerpt:

"Soil organisms are naturally active during certain times of the year. Most are active when the soil is warm and moist, like during late spring and early summer. If the soil dries out during the summer months, soil organism activity naturally declines. During fall, if there is rain or snow that moistens the soil while it is still warm, soil organisms may resume partial activity. As the soil cools in the fall, many soil organisms go dormant. Gardeners should note that fertilizers that require processing by soil organisms will be more available to plants when the soil is warm and moist and less available when the soil is cool or dry. "
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Wonderful info Sue, thank you very much for the information, exactly what I was looking for... and it seems that my memory served me well this time!!! :cheesygrinsmiley: :cheesygrinsmiley: with 6 concussions and daily recreational cannabis use, that doesn't often happen :rofl: :rofl:

Looks like I'll be getting a 55 gallon storage drum sometime this summer! :cheesygrinsmiley:

Also, love the source of your excerpt :cheesygrinsmiley: :thumb: :thumb:
 
medmanmike said:
Hi Doc, just wanted to share a couple of pics from my recent (3rd HB) grow. Not on your level by any means, but I'm getting there! Two plants, 6.35 oz dry.
image22481.jpg
image22480.jpg
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Just saw this. Looking really greasy and flavorful there M3. :goodjob:

HOw are you liking everything?
 
Well, they're still curing, but I did manage to sneak a couple of vapes of the Gold Leaf - Whoa! :yahoo:

Doc, these are the same plants I asked about in 5687 - burnt leaf edges. It eventually effected them both. One poster suggested a Mag. Deficiency.

Yesterday I posted about my tap water hardness of 165 and ph of 7.5 (water quality report). Did you see this-6240? If I'm understanding my research correctly, the hardness is "ok", but the ph is to high, which may have caused an inbalance leading to nute burn. Yes?
 
medmanmike said:
Well, they're still curing, but I did manage to sneak a couple of vapes of the Gold Leaf - Whoa! :yahoo:

Doc, these are the same plants I asked about in 5687 - burnt leaf edges. It eventually effected them both. One poster suggested a Mag. Deficiency.

Yesterday I posted about my tap water hardness of 165 and ph of 7.5 (water quality report). Did you see this-6240? If I'm understanding my research correctly, the hardness is "ok", but the ph is to high, which may have caused an inbalance leading to nute burn. Yes?
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The pH isn't a problem. I didn't see the previous pictures you posted....sometimes I miss an entire page following everything.

But the buds look really nice!
 
Hey doc, I'm gonna transplant that Non hb JH into a 7 gallon hb pot.....we were discussing on smokey's thread? GT suggested a root drench before the transplant..

Now my question is(can't find my notes) if I was gonna use a 5 gallon buckets for a one plant root soak. How much. Tea and transplant should I use? And should I also water the new hb soil with transplant water and tea or just moisten it with plain water, since I have already soaked the roots with the tea and transplant?
 
NematodeNate said:
Hey doc, I'm gonna transplant that Non hb JH into a 7 gallon hb pot.....we were discussing on smokey's thread? GT suggested a root drench before the transplant..

Now my question is(can't find my notes) if I was gonna use a 5 gallon buckets for a one plant root soak. How much. Tea and transplant should I use? And should I also water the new hb soil with transplant water and tea or just moisten it with plain water, since I have already soaked the roots with the tea and transplant?
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You can use a weak Transplant solution if you wish, but as long as you're using the Roots! product, plain water is OK, since you drenched it prior to transplant.

GT knows what's up! Great advice.
 
Hey doc I found this......

Fill 5 gallon bucket with water/tea/food....whatever it is you're doing. In the case of my kit I make the bucket like this:

1 ounce of Energy
2 mils Tea
1 ounce Transplant

This is from page 4 of in the lab? My question is how many plants was that root drench for? And what would be ideal for my transplant and tea brew?

It's only for the one plant in a three gallon pot.
 
NematodeNate said:
Hey doc I found this......

Fill 5 gallon bucket with water/tea/food....whatever it is you're doing. In the case of my kit I make the bucket like this:

1 ounce of Energy
2 mils Tea
1 ounce Transplant

This is from page 4 of in the lab? My question is how many plants was that root drench for? And what would be ideal for my transplant and tea brew?

It's only for the one plant in a three gallon pot.
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I think I might have dunked 10 to 12 plants in that mix.

I'm not sure what you mean by "ideal for my transplant and tea brew." Please be more specific. Remember, the new Roots! product does not have to use Transplant water because it's already there in dry form.

Just follow the most recent instructions. 3 gallons is too small of a container for bloom, and too large for veg, unless you're going to grow a large tree.
 
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