Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

3 gallons is too small of a container for bloom, and too large for veg, unless you're going to grow a large tree.

Doc, speaking of container size, my plan is to let my plants finish in 10 gallon pots, when transplanting from 1 gallon to 10, should I veg a while before flipping to build roots first or just flip? How long does it usually take for the plant to get root bound in the 1 gallon pots?
 
There's got to be a point where all this becomes almost instinctive. You guys start throwing around all these special terms and schedules and my LOS Brain screams a little. Admittedly, I haven't had time to engross myself in study and that's usually sufficient for me, but I planted my seed in my handmade LOS soil and the rest was lighting and water.

I'll get this guys. I'm so excited about the chance to grow in this kit it's insane. I'm driving Dale a little nuts. I need to make a chart. Maybe that will help. I WILL GET THIS! :laughtwo::green_heart:

I learn every time I stop here. Thanks guys. :Love:
 
I think I might have dunked 10 to 12 plants in that mix.

I'm not sure what you mean by "ideal for my transplant and tea brew." Please be more specific. Remember, the new Roots! product does not have to use Transplant water because it's already there in dry form.

Just follow the most recent instructions. 3 gallons is too small of a container for bloom, and too large for veg, unless you're going to grow a large tree.

I agree with the pot size.....and understand that you have a lot to keep up with.

This is the non hb JH transplanting into a 7 gallon pot from a 3. Then continue vegging until she regains her feet, then flip.

As far as the ratio for my case, I think you answered it with your response of 10-12 plants in that dunk.
If I understand correctly, I will just mix my dunk in ratios for one plant.
 
Nate, I meant a Trans/Tea soak after transplant, not before, but the before-soak could be interesting, too. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I don't think I'd do GE at this point, though - you want to accelerate root growth at transplant. But I'd give it a good dose of GE as soon as it's settled into its new digs. And with the new Roots!, you don't want to go heavy with the Transplant. I keep forgetting the formulation has changed.

Don't get all hung up on feeding. :cheesygrinsmiley: It's the soil, not the drenches and foliars. Biota love our soil and plants love biota. All we're doing with the other stuff is tweaking and steering. That last Destroyer I harvested? - it got almost nothing extra for the last month - no foliars, not much GE - it got that way just from the soil it was in.

Pot growers (especially men) have this tendency to "drive" or "run" their plants. But this method is at odds with that instinct. We have to think more in terms of "assisting". The plants and the biota are working in ways we can't grasp. Let them do what they do best. If you simply transplanted and watered, your plant would hook up with the HB soil just fine. Soaking in a rich myco and biota-filled solution at transplant only really reassures our own selves, and would probably help - can't really hurt. :cheesygrinsmiley:

And the same thing goes for you, Sue. Remember that we HB growers are men, with the limitations and instincts that come with that. :laughtwo: We're into our machines and our gear, and "operating" it all. HiBrix growing is kinda counter-intuitive for us - we gotta keep reminding ourselves that we're not actually running this particular show - the lil soil bots are.
 
Well said, Mr. Gray! :thumb:
 
Well said, Mr. Gray! :thumb:

Thank you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

There isn't a lot of conversation about what's really happening in the soil. :cheesygrinsmiley:

*Bacteria and fungi need carbohydrates to function.
*When they have them available, they go about their business of dissolving minerals.
*Plants need dissolved minerals.
*Plant roots exude sugars - these sugars vary according to what the plants need from the soil.
*Various biota produce various dissolved minerals.
*Those biota feed on the root exudates
*Everyone wins.

When we spray foliars, we cause the plant to exude certain sugars that attract certain biota to supply the plant with certain needs (growth/bloom/roots, etc). When we drench, we alter the soil chemistry in order to release different nutrients from the supply the biota have created.

We're there to run the root/biota interface. They do the actual work. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Thank you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

There isn't a lot of conversation about what's really happening in the soil. :cheesygrinsmiley:

*Bacteria and fungi need carbohydrates to function.
*When they have them available, they go about their business of dissolving minerals.
*Plants need dissolved minerals.
*Plant roots exude sugars - these sugars vary according to what the plants need from the soil.
*Various biota produce various dissolved minerals.
*Those biota feed on the root exudates
*Everyone wins.

When we spray foliars, we cause the plant to exude certain sugars that attract certain biota to supply the plant with certain needs (growth/bloom/roots, etc). When we drench, we alter the soil chemistry in order to release different nutrients from the supply the biota have created.

We're there to run the root/biota interface. They do the actual work. :cheesygrinsmiley:

That makes perfect sense Graytail. Thank you.
 
Thank you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

There isn't a lot of conversation about what's really happening in the soil. :cheesygrinsmiley:

*Bacteria and fungi need carbohydrates to function.
*When they have them available, they go about their business of dissolving minerals.
*Plants need dissolved minerals.
*Plant roots exude sugars - these sugars vary according to what the plants need from the soil.
*Various biota produce various dissolved minerals.
*Those biota feed on the root exudates
*Everyone wins.

When we spray foliars, we cause the plant to exude certain sugars that attract certain biota to supply the plant with certain needs (growth/bloom/roots, etc). When we drench, we alter the soil chemistry in order to release different nutrients from the supply the biota have created.

We're there to run the root/biota interface. They do the actual work. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Thanks for that!
I'm heading down the HB path, but only because I'm convinced it works. I have no idea why it works. I've read all of Doc's journals and most of the other HB'rs, but after a few hundred pages interspersed with occasional nuggets of insight, I must admit I'm completely lost. Probably because my memory and smartpower aren't what they used to be. +Reps!
 
Thank you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

There isn't a lot of conversation about what's really happening in the soil. :cheesygrinsmiley:

*Bacteria and fungi need carbohydrates to function.
*When they have them available, they go about their business of dissolving minerals.
*Plants need dissolved minerals.
*Plant roots exude sugars - these sugars vary according to what the plants need from the soil.
*Various biota produce various dissolved minerals.
*Those biota feed on the root exudates
*Everyone wins.

When we spray foliars, we cause the plant to exude certain sugars that attract certain biota to supply the plant with certain needs (growth/bloom/roots, etc). When we drench, we alter the soil chemistry in order to release different nutrients from the supply the biota have created.

We're there to run the root/biota interface. They do the actual work. :cheesygrinsmiley:

:thankyou::bravo:
 
Thank you. :cheesygrinsmiley:

There isn't a lot of conversation about what's really happening in the soil. :cheesygrinsmiley:

*Bacteria and fungi need carbohydrates to function.
*When they have them available, they go about their business of dissolving minerals.
*Plants need dissolved minerals.
*Plant roots exude sugars - these sugars vary according to what the plants need from the soil.
*Various biota produce various dissolved minerals.
*Those biota feed on the root exudates
*Everyone wins.

When we spray foliars, we cause the plant to exude certain sugars that attract certain biota to supply the plant with certain needs (growth/bloom/roots, etc). When we drench, we alter the soil chemistry in order to release different nutrients from the supply the biota have created.

We're there to run the root/biota interface. They do the actual work. :cheesygrinsmiley:

See? I can't give you reps points again until tomorrow, you brilliant communicator you. You'll have to be satisfied with a BIG HUG! :green_heart::green_heart::green_heart:
 
Doc, that had to make you proud. :laughtwo::green_heart:
 
Nate, I meant a Trans/Tea soak after transplant, not before, but the before-soak could be interesting, too. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I don't think I'd do GE at this point, though - you want to accelerate root growth at transplant. But I'd give it a good dose of GE as soon as it's settled into its new digs. And with the new Roots!, you don't want to go heavy with the Transplant. I keep forgetting the formulation has changed.

Don't get all hung up on feeding. :cheesygrinsmiley: It's the soil, not the drenches and foliars. Biota love our soil and plants love biota. All we're doing with the other stuff is tweaking and steering. That last Destroyer I harvested? - it got almost nothing extra for the last month - no foliars, not much GE - it got that way just from the soil it was in.

Pot growers (especially men) have this tendency to "drive" or "run" their plants. But this method is at odds with that instinct. We have to think more in terms of "assisting". The plants and the biota are working in ways we can't grasp. Let them do what they do best. If you simply transplanted and watered, your plant would hook up with the HB soil just fine. Soaking in a rich myco and biota-filled solution at transplant only really reassures our own selves, and would probably help - can't really hurt. :cheesygrinsmiley:

And the same thing goes for you, Sue. Remember that we HB growers are men, with the limitations and instincts that come with that. :laughtwo: We're into our machines and our gear, and "operating" it all. HiBrix growing is kinda counter-intuitive for us - we gotta keep reminding ourselves that we're not actually running this particular show - the lil soil bots are.

Hey GT.....yeah sometimes it's hard to be precise chatting on a thread........anyway here goes, she is in a 3 gallon pot now, I took your first bit of advice as dunking it while in the three gallon then moving it into its 7 gallon home? I figured being a non hb plant that would get all the good stuff in her roots through and through. Then just wet the new hb soil pot. Of couse a healthy dusting of roots everywhere?

And in this dunk would b tea and a small dose of transplant?
 
Hey GT.....yeah sometimes it's hard to be precise chatting on a thread........anyway here goes, she is in a 3 gallon pot now, I took your first bit of advice as dunking it while in the three gallon then moving it into its 7 gallon home? I figured being a non hb plant that would get all the good stuff in her roots through and through. Then just wet the new hb soil pot. Of couse a healthy dusting of roots everywhere?

And in this dunk would b tea and a small dose of transplant?

It's Doc's thread and he'll have the best answer, but I'd say forget the old soil - you want to tune the new soil. If you score and dust the rootball, and then soak it with a dose of Transplant and Tea, you'll be doing what we usually do at transplant. Soaking the old soil won't hurt, but it's the HB soil you want to affect. It's the most likely to respond properly.

So, to be more exact in my own recommendation, I'd say soak it with about 3 ml of Transplant and 0.5 ml of Tea for your 7 gallons. Just water the next time, followed by GE and Tea after that, then 1/4 Trans/water (about 1 ml). By then it's another 3 weeks old. From there you decide when to flip it and how to time the feeds. Be generous with DeStress foliar in the two weeks after upcanning. That should help it hook into the HB soil as well as we can.

But you could experiment, too. :cheesygrinsmiley: It's really hard to screw 'em up.
 
Doc, speaking of container size, my plan is to let my plants finish in 10 gallon pots, when transplanting from 1 gallon to 10, should I veg a while before flipping to build roots first or just flip? How long does it usually take for the plant to get root bound in the 1 gallon pots?

Just saw this...

1 gallon to 10 gallons is fantastic, IMO. I'd veg 'em for no more than 2 or 3 days, or not at all. You'll have rich soil for the entire grow.
 
I agree with the pot size.....and understand that you have a lot to keep up with.

This is the non hb JH transplanting into a 7 gallon pot from a 3. Then continue vegging until she regains her feet, then flip.

As far as the ratio for my case, I think you answered it with your response of 10-12 plants in that dunk.
If I understand correctly, I will just mix my dunk in ratios for one plant.

1 plant or 10 plants....all were dunked in the same solution. If you weaken it, don't dunk, gently top and saucer feed. If you dunk it you've got to make it strong, because most of the water will drain right back.
 
Don't get all hung up on feeding. :cheesygrinsmiley: It's the soil, not the drenches and foliars. Biota love our soil and plants love biota. All we're doing with the other stuff is tweaking and steering. That last Destroyer I harvested? - it got almost nothing extra for the last month - no foliars, not much GE - it got that way just from the soil it was in.


What run was the soil you were using GT? I've found the complete opposite to be true in first run soil, If I don't keep up on foliars and drenches the plants don't look so hot.
 
What run was the soil you were using GT? I've found the complete opposite to be true in first run soil, If I don't keep up on foliars and drenches the plants turn to crap real fast.

Why would this be? So, diligence is necessary for the first run. Ok. Nice to know.
 
What run was the soil you were using GT? I've found the complete opposite to be true in first run soil, If I don't keep up on foliars and drenches the plants turn to crap real fast.

Ah, yes, you know your soil! :cheesygrinsmiley: This was the last plant I ran in my used soil - roughly third run, but highly unbalanced from hard water.

You'd upcan from 1 to 10 gallons and go straight into bloom? :hmmm:
 
Doc, I posted this on my journal and thought it would be smarter (and more respectful) to come to you directly.

image22653.jpg


Two tablespoons sprinkled over the soil surface beneath the mulch is what I'm planning. Sound good?
 
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