Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

docs garden looking flawless! i had to add this close up of his lemon paki!!
image19744.jpg
 
SloTown805 said:
docs garden looking flawless! i had to add this close up of his lemon paki!!
image19744.jpg
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I gotta get a new camera!

Just got an email from the president of the lab. They found my samples and are going to run a new test. So, I'll actually have REAL numbers very soon.

The lab has been pretty cool about this, and apparently I'm not the only one.

HT? They suck.
 
Doc Bud for the SAVE!!!! What a turnaround, Doc, and you chased than son of a gun up that flagpole your own bad self....:bravo:
 
VonDankenhoek said:
" Don't forget that clones love DeStress at half strength." I can vouch for that Doc.

Do you add fulvic or dextrose or any adjuvant to your clone spray?
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The sprays are pre-made and have all sorts of neat stuff in them, but no fulvic. Definitely dextrose, however.
 
Hi Doc
Congratulation to your amazing work. You are a major source of inspiration for my grow.
I'm trying to prepare my organic soil according to the high brix.
This is the Lab analysis I got today. I have been adding a lot of organic stuff, mycorrize, bone dust, etc... and the soil baked for about 100 days.

Lab_analysis.png


I know I need to increase the Ca drastically by adding at least 5 gr gypsum per liter to get to the 7:1 Ca-Mg ratio.
However, I would like to know about the other components. What do I need to add, how much and in which form?

I have also found a composition for High Brix soil that is the following:

Calcium 2,243 mg/dm3
Magnesium 224 mg/dm3
Phosphate 224 mg/dm3
Potassium 112 mg/dm3
Nitrate N 22 mg/dm3
Ammonia N 22 mg/dm3

Any suggestion would be very much appreciated (PS: I am growing organically, no chemicals and possibly no fertilisers during the cycle, maybe only some organic foliar Ca-P spray).
 
Organic Weed said:
Hi Doc
Congratulation to your amazing work. You are a major source of inspiration for my grow.
I'm trying to prepare my organic soil according to the high brix.
This is the Lab analysis I got today. I have been adding a lot of organic stuff, mycorrize, bone dust, etc... and the soil baked for about 100 days.

Lab_analysis.png


I know I need to increase the Ca drastically by adding at least 5 gr gypsum per liter to get to the 7:1 Ca-Mg ratio.
However, I would like to know about the other components. What do I need to add, how much and in which form?

I have also found a composition for High Brix soil that is the following:

Calcium 2,243 mg/dm3
Magnesium 224 mg/dm3
Phosphate 224 mg/dm3
Potassium 112 mg/dm3
Nitrate N 22 mg/dm3
Ammonia N 22 mg/dm3

Any suggestion would be very much appreciated (PS: I am growing organically, no chemicals and possibly no fertilisers during the cycle, maybe only some organic foliar Ca-P spray).
Click to expand...

I'll look it more thoroughly later, but here's what I see right off the top.

Ca/Mg should be 7:1....no more than 10:1 for our plants.

Ca should be 18 times higher than P or K, which should be equal with eachother.

I wouldn't add gypsum......I'd add limestone.

You do have a great blessing here...your potassium levels are low.

Who is your lab and what kind of test are they using?
 
Hi Doc
Thanx for the input.
I'm quoting what worried me:

Doc Bud said:
Ca should be 18 times higher than P or K, which should be equal with eachother.

Who is your lab and what kind of test are they using?
Click to expand...

Now, you say "Ca should be 18 times higher than P or K, which should be equal with each other".
I am WAY off here. This means that I would need to:

1. Increase K from 46 to 588 mg/dm to get to the same level of P
2. Bring Ca to 10,584 mg/dm
3. Bring Mg to 1,512 mg/dm

However, with these values I would have way too many ingredients and I would risk a serious root burn, correct? What shall I do?

However, I must say that in previous posts somewhere here or in one of your threads I read that High Brix should be high in Ca and P and low in K e N. So I have added P and very little K and N (although I have added a lot of vegetable residues so this is why I got high in N).

I am using a national lab. This is the method they are using:
For P - Na- K - Fe - Zn - Mn - Cu they use Mehlich 1 extraction
Ca - Mg - Al using an Extractor KCl - 1 mol/l
H+Al - using calcium acetate 0.5 mol/l - pH 7
B - hot water
S - Monocalcium fosfate
 
Organic Weed said:
Hi Doc
Thanx for the input.
I'm quoting what worried me:



Now, you say "Ca should be 18 times higher than P or K, which should be equal with each other".
I am WAY off here. This means that I would need to:

1. Increase K from 46 to 588 mg/dm to get to the same level of P
2. Bring Ca to 10,584 mg/dm
3. Bring Mg to 1,512 mg/dm

However, with these values I would have way too many ingredients and I would risk a serious root burn, correct? What shall I do?

However, I must say that in previous posts somewhere here or in one of your threads I read that High Brix should be high in Ca and P and low in K e N. So I have added P and very little K and N (although I have added a lot of vegetable residues so this is why I got high in N).

I am using a national lab. This is the method they are using:
For P - Na- K - Fe - Zn - Mn - Cu they use Mehlich 1 extraction
Ca - Mg - Al using an Extractor KCl - 1 mol/l
H+Al - using calcium acetate 0.5 mol/l - pH 7
B - hot water
S - Monocalcium fosfate
Click to expand...

Not exactly......for example, if your current values are as you posted:

Calcium 2,243 mg/dm3
Magnesium 224 mg/dm3
Phosphate 224 mg/dm3
Potassium 112 mg/dm3
Nitrate N 22 mg/dm3
Ammonia N 22 mg/dm3

Your new RATIOS should be: (forgive the simple math, the device i'm using has no calculator)

Calcium 18 xx/xx
Magnesium 2 xx/xx
Phosphate 1xx/x
Potassium 1 xx/xx

So, the soil you listed below your spreadsheet simply needs limestone (and perhaps some gypsum depending on sulfur) a touch of magnesium and some potassium. K-mag (also known as sul-po-mag) is perfect here, as it provides both magnesium and potassium, along with sulfur.

I couldn't tell you how much to add, but the lab could.....a good guess would be about 1/2 cup limestone and perhaps 4 tblsp K-mag per 60 gallons of soil.

The main problem is that for High Brix you want to use a WEAK ACID testing method, like the Morgan test. The reason is that roots excrete humic acids, which are weak compared to the powerful acids often used in commercial soil tests designed around NPK sterile soil and salts. A weak acid tests what is actually available to the plant via microbial action, rather than what the total chemical composition of the soil might be. Concrete has NPK that can be measured via "soil" test, but it's not exactly a good medium to grow in......

Why don't you take the soil you found, get a soil test and custom mineral blend and start growing high brix? If you wish to do this, simply PM me and I'll point you in the right direction.
 
Doc Bud said:
I gotta get a new camera!

Just got an email from the president of the lab. They found my samples and are going to run a new test. So, I'll actually have REAL numbers very soon.

The lab has been pretty cool about this, and apparently I'm not the only one.

HT? They suck.
Click to expand...

So after the tech assured you they had it right once and for all they have it wrong again?
 
Doc a bit back I read that you said if you're going to feed epsom salt to top dress it. I think you meant to sprinkle it directly on the soil but just wanted to verify. I was going to do a light ES feeding on my blue dream this time no more than 1/2 tsp in a gallon of water for ~12 gallons of soil. If sprinkling on top instead how much would you use?

Thanks again :)

PS I didn't think your plants could look better but with the other camera omg :loopy::drool:
 
ClosedCircuit said:
So after the tech assured you they had it right once and for all they have it wrong again?
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Yes, they found the pouch that contained my entry.

VonDankenhoek said:
Doc,

I read the labs response to your inquiry. Is the analytical technique that they use disclosed anywhere? Ive been reading about the challenges and potential variations in relation HPLC, GC , MS etc.

Just wondering. Curious if there is a gold standard that assures uniformity of measurements.
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They disclose all this on their website, I believe.

New test: THC 17.2% I'll get the certificate tomorrow, I think. Monday at the latest.
 
Hi 420 Hi doc,

Please send me info on obtaining high brix kit. I am preparing for my first grow. While I'm focussing my efforts on providing a comfy home for my new roommates, I don't see why I shouldn't also attempt to replicate the techniques of those who are producing the finest marijuana in the land.

Anyhow, Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and growing wisdom. There are some great teachers on this site, and I really love the open source model you are using to develop the technology. Communities such as this are hotbeds of innovation.

Cheers

p.s.: I am in Canada. If that's a problem with the kit, I'm sure I can obtain almost everything more or less locally. I'm not sure about the sprays though. I've found some sources that do provide sprays designed for Hi brix gardeners, but not the agricultural strength ones you talk about in your journals.
 
Doc Bud said:
Yes, they found the pouch that contained my entry.



They disclose all this on their website, I believe.

New test: THC 17.2% I'll get the certificate tomorrow, I think. Monday at the latest.
Click to expand...

Are you going to get it independently verified again? Seems pretty low for how frosty those girls were.

Sorry about all that hassle. I guess that rules out any HT events in the future for you?
 
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