VonDankenhoek
New Member
man, those flowers are gonna be gems come wash, dry, cure.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
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- #4,902
The 'Apes are the best yet.
After they come down I've got lemon paki and champagne going under the LED.
Doc, do you know of any journals on 420 that have used HB growing outdoors?
Also, 10x10x3... A raised bed or a kids swimming pool? Lol
You would need a round pool sized 11.3 (5.65 radius) ft diameter x 3ft deep(ht) to give almost 300 cu ft.
V=πr2h
The symbol just after the equal sign, Thats the symbol for Pi(3.14)
Also, 10x10x3... A raised bed or a kids swimming pool? Lol
You would need a round pool sized 11.3 (5.65 radius) ft diameter x 3ft deep(ht) to give almost 300 cu ft.
V=πr2h
The symbol just after the equal sign, Thats the symbol for Pi(3.14)
I truly hope you guys going to this stellar event will discuss the Fellowship of HB Growers 1st Annual Grow
Different growers, Same strain, Kit, and Awesomeness! Your fans want it!
Different growers, Same strain, Kit, and Awesomeness! Your fans want it!
- Thread starter
- #4,906
Doc, do you know of any journals on 420 that have used HB growing outdoors?
Also, 10x10x3... A raised bed or a kids swimming pool? Lol
You would need a round pool sized 11.3 (5.65 radius) ft diameter x 3ft deep(ht) to give almost 300 cu ft.
V=πr2h
The symbol just after the equal sign, Thats the symbol for Pi(3.14)
yep.....volume of a cylinder. Round is great, but square is easy to make with straw bales. My friends use straw bales to make their raised beds. They claim they get massive earthworm activity as a result.
The outdoor growers I work with are sometimes camera shy, for various reasons.
Doc
I noticed in the second pic of the last set you have plants that are almost 2-3 feet taller than ones right next to them.
How do you get plants so far away from the lights to mature that way?
I noticed in the second pic of the last set you have plants that are almost 2-3 feet taller than ones right next to them.
How do you get plants so far away from the lights to mature that way?
- Thread starter
- #4,908
Well, some plants are just short! The shorties are 10 weeks into bloom, while the tall ones are 5 weeks.
Everything has more than enough light....the tall ones are too close! The short ones are about right.
medmanmike
Well-Known Member
Doc, need some advice when you have a minute.
The attached are pics of a Pineapple Trainwreck (top) and Gold Leaf (bottom). Today was day 24 of 12/12. My understanding is the PT is an 8-10 week flower and the GL is 63 days (from the breeder).
I'm running a 1200W main CFL unit with two 200W clamp on reflector domes on the side. I added a 90W Red UFO (Dorm Grow) approx. 2 weeks prior to switching to 12/12. I misunderstood DG and added it during veg. When flowers/pistils started to develop before switching to 12/12, I contacted DG and they said I should have waited to add the UFO until switching. Lesson learned.
Earlier this week (week 4) I inquired about whether my ladies were ready for a Cat Drench and you directed me to VonDankenhoek for a pic of what flowers should look like before the Drench. VonD has been very helpful, but I wanted to solicit your opinion.
The other thing you should know is that I have to be gone weeks 8 & 9. My helper will water, but won't be harvesting. I like a sedative effect, so I typically harvest late when the trichs are more than 50% amber, so I think I'll be ok.
To my questions: 1) are the buds ready for a Cat Drench? 2) Could I postpone the drench a week or so? 3) If so, would an Energy drench be appropriate? and 3) Would delaying the Cat Drench also delay when they ripen?
Thanks in advance! You are so generous with your time and talent and it is greatly appreciated.
The attached are pics of a Pineapple Trainwreck (top) and Gold Leaf (bottom). Today was day 24 of 12/12. My understanding is the PT is an 8-10 week flower and the GL is 63 days (from the breeder).
I'm running a 1200W main CFL unit with two 200W clamp on reflector domes on the side. I added a 90W Red UFO (Dorm Grow) approx. 2 weeks prior to switching to 12/12. I misunderstood DG and added it during veg. When flowers/pistils started to develop before switching to 12/12, I contacted DG and they said I should have waited to add the UFO until switching. Lesson learned.
Earlier this week (week 4) I inquired about whether my ladies were ready for a Cat Drench and you directed me to VonDankenhoek for a pic of what flowers should look like before the Drench. VonD has been very helpful, but I wanted to solicit your opinion.
The other thing you should know is that I have to be gone weeks 8 & 9. My helper will water, but won't be harvesting. I like a sedative effect, so I typically harvest late when the trichs are more than 50% amber, so I think I'll be ok.
To my questions: 1) are the buds ready for a Cat Drench? 2) Could I postpone the drench a week or so? 3) If so, would an Energy drench be appropriate? and 3) Would delaying the Cat Drench also delay when they ripen?
Thanks in advance! You are so generous with your time and talent and it is greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #4,910
Doc, need some advice when you have a minute.
The attached are pics of a Pineapple Trainwreck (top) and Gold Leaf (bottom). Today was day 24 of 12/12. My understanding is the PT is an 8-10 week flower and the GL is 63 days (from the breeder).
I'm running a 1200W main CFL unit with two 200W clamp on reflector domes on the side. I added a 90W Red UFO (Dorm Grow) approx. 2 weeks prior to switching to 12/12. I misunderstood DG and added it during veg. When flowers/pistils started to develop before switching to 12/12, I contacted DG and they said I should have waited to add the UFO until switching. Lesson learned.
Earlier this week (week 4) I inquired about whether my ladies were ready for a Cat Drench and you directed me to VonDankenhoek for a pic of what flowers should look like before the Drench. VonD has been very helpful, but I wanted to solicit your opinion.
The other thing you should know is that I have to be gone weeks 8 & 9. My helper will water, but won't be harvesting. I like a sedative effect, so I typically harvest late when the trichs are more than 50% amber, so I think I'll be ok.
To my questions: 1) are the buds ready for a Cat Drench? 2) Could I postpone the drench a week or so? 3) If so, would an Energy drench be appropriate? and 3) Would delaying the Cat Drench also delay when they ripen?
Thanks in advance! You are so generous with your time and talent and it is greatly appreciated.
First of all, those plants are really nice! Good job.
They're ready for the Cat Drench. Just go for it! You'll get all kinds of resin afterwards....now is a great time.
Ditto - looks good for some Cat drench.
... but yes, you could also wait a week more and do Energy instead ...
Hormones drive the ripening, so the process continues. All we do is try to partially stimulate either calyx creation or calyx growth.
... but yes, you could also wait a week more and do Energy instead ...
Hormones drive the ripening, so the process continues. All we do is try to partially stimulate either calyx creation or calyx growth.
ClosedCircuit
New Member
Hello Doc,
I am not a Hi-Brix grower, but rather a Living Soil grower. I come in here from time to time because I want to see what all the hullaballoo is about Hi-Brix.
My first big question for you is have you tried to grow your plants without the chelating agent - relying on the great soil you have built to feed your plants? My big worry with hi-brix is that it seems many of you growers have gone through the effort and money to build beautiful soil, but then feed your plants chelated nutrients. What is the point of ensuring abundant microbial life, which is meant to feed the plants, when you fertilize the plants anyways? How certain are you that microbial life is working in accord with the chelated nutrients you use?
Sorry if this sounds aggressive. I honestly am a bit skeptical, but I want to have a better understanding of Hi-Brix and how it works.
I am not a Hi-Brix grower, but rather a Living Soil grower. I come in here from time to time because I want to see what all the hullaballoo is about Hi-Brix.
My first big question for you is have you tried to grow your plants without the chelating agent - relying on the great soil you have built to feed your plants? My big worry with hi-brix is that it seems many of you growers have gone through the effort and money to build beautiful soil, but then feed your plants chelated nutrients. What is the point of ensuring abundant microbial life, which is meant to feed the plants, when you fertilize the plants anyways? How certain are you that microbial life is working in accord with the chelated nutrients you use?
Sorry if this sounds aggressive. I honestly am a bit skeptical, but I want to have a better understanding of Hi-Brix and how it works.
Dutty Panty
New Member
Good you found the thread. This is a very good source for high brix. I was gonna post a link for ya but you found it.
ClosedCircuit
New Member
Closed Circuit, welcome!
I first discovered this article on a health website I frequent often last year then I found Docs threads here on 420mag. It convinced me to get on board I googled High Brix, nutrient dense gardening...and here I am.
The Quest for Nutrient-Dense Food: High-Brix Farming and Gardening | Weston A Price
Skeptism is good!
I first discovered this article on a health website I frequent often last year then I found Docs threads here on 420mag. It convinced me to get on board
I googled High Brix, nutrient dense gardening...and here I am. The Quest for Nutrient-Dense Food: High-Brix Farming and Gardening | Weston A Price
Skeptism is good!
ClosedCircuit
New Member
Closed Circuit, welcome!
I first discovered this article on a health website I frequent often last year then I found Docs threads here on 420mag. It convinced me to get on board
The Quest for Nutrient-Dense Food: High-Brix Farming and Gardening | Weston A Price
Skeptism is good!
What are the nutrients available in a hi-brix kit? They aren't very clear on their site. What is the benefit of feeding the plant these nutrients rather than feeding the soil and allowing the plant to use what it wants?
Thats what HB growing does. the drenches feed the soil to support the biota which eats the rocks, that feeds the plant. The foliars feed the plant, biota too.
Docs kit is not listed on any site except here. His kit is made from ingredients and components that a HB farm lab sells.
He will be able to tell nutrients present in the kits' parts
the drenches feed the soil to support the biota which eats the rocks, that feeds the plant. The foliars feed the plant, biota too.Docs kit is not listed on any site except here. His kit is made from ingredients and components that a HB farm lab sells.
He will be able to tell nutrients present in the kits' parts
Where are you getting chelated nutrients from? We're feeding the soil biota, same as LOS.
Man you came in here hard with the questions. We feed our soil with drenches. Not the plant. Doc will be able to explain everything better. I don't believe we are using any chelated nutrients. Doc will stop by at some point I'm sure.
Here is basic list of ingredients in the kit:
Amendment: Limestone, Gypsum, Soft Rock Phosphate, Biochar, organic fertilizer and trace elements.
Re-charge: similar to amendment
Roots!: Rock powders, biochar, organic fertilizer and myco
Tea: Liquid humic acid and LOADS of beneficials. Stupid strong.
Transplant: Liquid fish, Chilean Nitrate
Growth Energy: Liquid Calcium Nitrate
Cat Drench: Liquid fish, Ammonium phosphate, Ammonium sulphate, trace elements
Brix: Liquid fish, phosphoric acid, Calcium phosphate, dextrose.
DeStress: Liquid fish, phosphoric acid, naturally occurring plant growth regulators derived from kelp, trace elements.