Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hash Hound said:
just like this, I just checked my notes

Doc, no light leak that I know of.
Fingers are crossed she they will start packing it on.
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Hash, I water more than you do. I almost always do straight water or 1/4 transplant between drenches. Mine would be energy, water, transplant, water, energy, water, transplant, water/recharge, cat, cat, water, energy, water, energy, etc til finish. To me, your leaves look a little overfed.

But I'm far from an experienced grower, so it's worth what you paid for it. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I agree with gray. I try to always water at least 2x, in later runs of soil 3x before the next drench. I like to let the drench do some work before adding more. I've been adding a bit (1/4oz:2.5-4gl) of transplant to every watering for this big pot but that just keeps everything happy.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Curso said:
I agree with gray. I try to always water at least 2x, in later runs of soil 3x before the next drench. I like to let the drench do some work before adding more. I've been adding a bit (1/4oz:2.5-4gl) of transplant to every watering for this big pot but that just keeps everything happy.
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I have been thinking maybe a schedule something like Energy, Water + Transplant, Water + Transplant, Energy, Water + Transplant, Cat drench when its time then back to normal schedule would work? All +Transplant would be 1/4 strength like you guys have been doing when you feed it with each water. The only difference really is not alternating between full drenches of Energy / Transplant since it is getting transplant with each watering now. If it works it would be easier to keep track of and be a super simple schedule (at least in my brain). Thoughts?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

SmokeyMcFly said:
I have been thinking maybe a schedule something like Energy, Water + Transplant, Water + Transplant, Energy, Water + Transplant, Cat drench when its time then back to normal schedule would work? All +Transplant would be 1/4 strength like you guys have been doing when you feed it with each water. The only difference really is not alternating between full drenches of Energy / Transplant since it is getting transplant with each watering now. If it works it would be easier to keep track of and be a super simple schedule (at least in my brain). Thoughts?
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Don't over think it bro :) but yes that would work and basically what I have been doing but watering 2-3 times in between. I just like letting that "energy" do something before adding more or changing it.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Week 3 and no more signs of phosphorous issues since being taken indoors:
DSC_002533.JPG
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Just one simple question.

What are the requirements for the soil used to go high brix? All of the soils docbud listed are not available in Europe. Maybe if i would know for what to look, i could get something here :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hello Amigos,
The lowdown on Aloe Vera .........

. -It also contains saponins which act as a wetting agent. -Also aloe has rooting compounds, it's natures cloning
Aloe Vera is amazing stuff. -Sure for sunburns. -But also for plants. -Aloe is a dynamic accumulator. -It contains the full range of NPK and micro nutrients as well. -It also contains saponins which act as a wetting agent. -Also aloe has rooting compounds, it's natures cloning gel. -

Brothers ..... feedback,
Have a good 1, Bulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey there BD....Aloe...ya eh....strange women stopped me on the beach in Jamaica to smear it all over my face and stuff! That was real nice until she wanted some loot!$$....of course you do! Cheers BD!:blunt:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Curso said:
Don't over think it bro :) but yes that would work and basically what I have been doing but watering 2-3 times in between. I just like letting that "energy" do something before adding more or changing it.
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I cant stop myself from over thinking things but fortunately I am better at stopping myself from acting upon these thoughts without asking first. :thumb:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

budnoob2 said:
Temps were getting under 60deg which can inhibit P uptake - yes Doc taught me this :)
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Yep. Looked like I called it right!

Remember this folks:

The Environment is the single most important factor in successful growing. Most problems can be traced back to environmental problems....because it has such a huge impact on plant health and growth characteristics.

The next most common problems plants have are related to root damage, from under/over watering and from salts.

If you have a good environment and healthy roots, you're going to harvest. Period.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

poly said:
Just one simple question.

What are the requirements for the soil used to go high brix? All of the soils docbud listed are not available in Europe. Maybe if i would know for what to look, i could get something here :)
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Hey poly!

You'll want to get some Peat Moss, and you'll want it pH balanced with limestone as opposed to Dolomite lime. Add to that some earth worm castings and you're ready to add minerals, etc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

poly said:
Just one simple question.

What are the requirements for the soil used to go high brix? All of the soils docbud listed are not available in Europe. Maybe if i would know for what to look, i could get something here :)
Click to expand...

It's been mentioned that it's possible to build a soil starting with peat moss.


LOL doc beat me to it!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thanks both of you! at the moment i use BioBizz Light Mix.

It has peat moss (h6-h8)
ph 6,2
KCL 1,170g/l
N 133mg/l
P2O5 201mg/l
K2O 365mg/l

0,1330% Fe
0,0083% Mn
0,0029% Zn
0,00084% B
0,0023% Cu
0,0009% Mo
0,00013% Co
0,000042% Se
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

poly said:
thanks both of you! at the moment i use BioBizz Light Mix.

It has peat moss (h6-h8)
ph 6,2
KCL 1,170g/l
N 133mg/l
P2O5 201mg/l
K2O 365mg/l

0,1330% Fe
0,0083% Mn
0,0029% Zn
0,00084% B
0,0023% Cu
0,0009% Mo
0,00013% Co
0,000042% Se
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Hello Brother,

What you might want to try .......

Promix HP (bale)
Oyster shell flour
Soft rock phosphate
Gypsum
Fish bone meal
Glacial rock dust
Crab meal
Earth worm castings
Let this mix sit with some decent water in it for a month.
Occasional feeding of Neptune Harvest fish
Occasional feeding earth worm casting tea


Have a good 1
Bulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thebulldog said:
Hello Brother,

What you might want to try .......

Promix HP (bale)
Oyster shell flour
Soft rock phosphate
Gypsum
Fish bone meal
Glacial rock dust
Crab meal
Earth worm castings
Let this mix sit with some decent water in it for a month.
Occasional feeding of Neptune Harvest fish
Occasional feeding earth worm casting tea


Have a good 1
Bulldog
Click to expand...

Everything except no glacial rock dust. Too high in sodium and potassium. Try to find a source of peat moss without the potassium salts in it too.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

36Gr0w said:
Hey doc, soil is cooking, thanks. I put 4.5 gallons of water in when I mixed it, should I add any more in the coming weeks when I stir it up? Is it Ok to add leaves while it is cooking?
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I wouldn't add leaves until you're adding high brix leaves. Water sounds about right. As long is it's covered it should stay moist and warm.
 
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