Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
Doc, do you harvest on a drench or just watering cycle? How long after the feed or watering do you chop? Do you chop in a.m. Or p.m.? Tyia
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I like to wait a bit...maybe a week or two later than you would normally think to harvest. I watch carefully and make sure the buds aren't doing anything weird....and during this time I try to keep the brix up.

So I usually drench with Growth Energy (cuz I want them to grow) and give a brix spray maybe a week before harvest and then one watering, which may or may not have Transplant in it based on what's left over from watering other plants etc.

If possible I like the plant to be healthy and growing when I cut it down. Not necessarily green, but evidence of buds swelling and resin forming.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I have a general question and decided to post it here since this is currently "the place" I'm gathering the most relevant information for my coming grow: I'm going to be using smart pots with Doc's kit and I have a nice stack of assorted sizes right now.

It' is my intention to germinate in rapid rooters (soaked in RO water and dusted with roots before seeded) and grow them in 1 gal smarties before being replanted into its larger 7 gal later on. My question is regarding replanting with smart pots. How do most folks do that? I've seen where you can simply place the 1 gal into a hole made in the larger pot and the roots will simply grow through. Is this still a hindrance to the plant's progression? Should I attempt to peel away the smaller pot when I'm ready to replant into the larger? Will the soil stay together enough to allow a decent transfer of the plant?

This is one of the few questions I haven't checked off my list yet, so sorry if it seems a bit elementary, but I've never used smart pots before.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Governmentchz said:
I have a general question and decided to post it here since this is currently "the place" I'm gathering the most relevant information for my coming grow: I'm going to be using smart pots with Doc's kit and I have a nice stack of assorted sizes right now.

It' is my intention to germinate in rapid rooters (soaked in RO water and dusted with roots before seeded) and grow them in 1 gal smarties before being replanted into its larger 7 gal later on. My question is regarding replanting with smart pots. How do most folks do that? I've seen where you can simply place the 1 gal into a hole made in the larger pot and the roots will simply grow through. Is this still a hindrance to the plant's progression? Should I attempt to peel away the smaller pot when I'm ready to replant into the larger? Will the soil stay together enough to allow a decent transfer of the plant?

This is one of the few questions I haven't checked off my list yet, so sorry if it seems a bit elementary, but I've never used smart pots before.
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If you let them kinda dry out the soil will be like a plug, you can just gently squeeze them out from the bottom up. But you could just bury it if you wanted to.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Cool, thanks for the quick reply. At least now I know it's kinda user-preference then. I'll peel them if I can, but if not it's good to know I can just stick them in the hole.

:Namaste:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Doc you are pure aloha! Mahalo nui loa!!!
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Seriously. Soo much good mana up in this thread. I am kicking myself for not having a brix grow going right now. Once I move my room I will have a light or two for just brix stuff.

Doc I still have an old kit from last year and was going to use it to mix a batch of kit soil for when I set up the new room. Have all the products stayed the same for the most part?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

shottafire said:
Seriously. Soo much good mana up in this thread. I am kicking myself for not having a brix grow going right now. Once I move my room I will have a light or two for just brix stuff.

Doc I still have an old kit from last year and was going to use it to mix a batch of kit soil for when I set up the new room. Have all the products stayed the same for the most part?
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Hey shotta,

If they've been stored in place that doesn't have wild temperature swings and bright light, everything is probably still good. You'll want some Cat Drench and some new Roots, for sure. Take inventory and get back to me!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Governmentchz said:
I have a general question and decided to post it here since this is currently "the place" I'm gathering the most relevant information for my coming grow: I'm going to be using smart pots with Doc's kit and I have a nice stack of assorted sizes right now.

It' is my intention to germinate in rapid rooters (soaked in RO water and dusted with roots before seeded) and grow them in 1 gal smarties before being replanted into its larger 7 gal later on. My question is regarding replanting with smart pots. How do most folks do that? I've seen where you can simply place the 1 gal into a hole made in the larger pot and the roots will simply grow through. Is this still a hindrance to the plant's progression? Should I attempt to peel away the smaller pot when I'm ready to replant into the larger? Will the soil stay together enough to allow a decent transfer of the plant?

This is one of the few questions I haven't checked off my list yet, so sorry if it seems a bit elementary, but I've never used smart pots before.
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I might skip the step about dusting the Rapid Rooters.....not sure that's going to help much.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hello Doc,
For a foliar spray 2 weeks into flower use your tea or energy?
diluted of course as per your labelling.

Thank You
Have a good 1 , Bulldog
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thebulldog said:
Hello Doc,
For a foliar spray 2 weeks into flower use your tea or energy?
diluted of course as per your labelling.

Thank You
Have a good 1 , Bulldog
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If you read the instructions, linked to at the bottom of this post in my signature.....if you were to do that, you'd discover that we have TWO foliar sprays, Brix and DeStress. These are the foliar sprays.

The other stuff, Tea, Growth Energy, Transplant, Cat Drench....those are drenches. We do not spray those on the plant. We only spray the foliar sprays, Brix And DeStress.

So.....I'd use Brix! If you plants exhibit signs of stress, I'd spray DeStress a couple days before or after you spray Brix.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thebulldog said:
Hello Doc,
Refractometers, 0 - 25 % is what we need ?

Thank You, Bulldog
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0-30 is better, but 0-25 will do.

don't go testing crispy leaves or anything.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

So I´m waiting for my kit to arrive. I decided to post this cause it might help people with similar conditions. I can´t get my hands on Sunshine nor HP promix so I will use what I have.
I have got pure peatmoss(40L bags), lots fo perlite and EWC, and the calcium carbonate is arriving as well with the kit :cheertwo:
Doc, could you give me the ratios including the above mentioned and the ammendment per bag of peatmoss please? Pref in metric system. I will be doing a perpetual with two tents for high brix. When I get the kit cooked I will start a journal fo sure.
Oh my I can´t wait to have my own high brix going! :circle-of-love:
Thank you :Namaste:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Engorage said:
So I´m waiting for my kit to arrive. I decided to post this cause it might help people with similar conditions. I can´t get my hands on Sunshine nor HP promix so I will use what I have.
I have got pure peatmoss(40L bags), lots fo perlite and EWC, and the calcium carbonate is arriving as well with the kit :cheertwo:
Doc, could you give me the ratios including the above mentioned and the ammendment per bag of peatmoss please? Pref in metric system. I will be doing a perpetual with two tents for high brix. When I get the kit cooked I will start a journal fo sure.
Oh my I can´t wait to have my own high brix going! :circle-of-love:
Thank you :Namaste:
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1. Rinse the peat moss with fresh water.
2. Attempt to determine the pH of the peatmoss
3. adjust pH using this formula:

Add 1/2 pound of calcitic (CaCo3) limestone per 60 gallons of peatmoss to raise pH 1/2 point. This works out to about .1 lbs limestone per 7 gallon pot. Remember to mix it in very well, along with the amendment and let it cook for 30 days.

I'll let you do the conversion to metric. :high-five:

BTW, if you can meet someone who uses your peatmoss, ask them about pH, how much of what they added, etc.

I think I included enough with your order to do the job and then some.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ok Doc, simple enough. :thanks:
What pH am I shooting for? I think the peatmoss is neutral (should be pH ~7), at least thats what it says in the description "Pure organic Peatmoss (neutral), no ammendments..." Anyway de limestone works as a buffer so it will help
I will work the conversion and calculations. I will ask about the peatmoss directly to the seller, but if I can´t get the info, then should I take the pH reading from the water I used to rinse the peat? I'm not used to measuring soil pH.

What about the perlite? I was thinking on about 10 to 15% of it, maybe 20? This to a total soil volume of about 3.8 cu.feet (without the Hb ammendment nor the 20-40 pounds of EWC).

Thank you very much maese!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Engorage said:
Ok Doc, simple enough. :thanks:
What pH am I shooting for? I think the peatmoss is neutral (should be pH ~7), at least thats what it says in the description "Pure organic Peatmoss (neutral), no ammendments..." Anyway de limestone works as a buffer so it will help
I will work the conversion and calculations. I will ask about the peatmoss directly to the seller, but if I can´t get the info, then should I take the pH reading from the water I used to rinse the peat? I'm not used to measuring soil pH.

What about the perlite? I was thinking on about 10 to 15% of it, maybe 20? This to a total soil volume of about 3.8 cu.feet (without the Hb ammendment nor the 20-40 pounds of EWC).

Thank you very much maese!
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The amendment is pH 6.4. Your soil is going to be 6.4. The limestone will counteract that natural acidity of peatmoss and hopefully bring it into spec with the Promix. If there's a little more limestone than with Promix it won't hurt anything.

As to the volume of soil....Promix comes in 3.8 cu ft bags, but it is compressed. It expands to about 60 gallons when the EWC is added and it's mixed around. Try to use that much peatmoss, don't worry about 3.8 cu ft.

I think you'll be good to go! Oh....when cooking the soil, add about 1/3 of your Roots! product into the mix. You'll still have some left for seeds and clones. 1 tsp per clone/seed.....1-2 tbsp per transplanted veg container. You should have plenty.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Engorage said:
Thanks Doc!
So if I get it right I´m gonna use 60 gals of peatmoss (hydrated) + EWC and mix it with the ammendment plus root zone? :high-five:

And what about perlite?
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Yep, and add the perlite, maybe 30% if course, 25% if medium or fine. When you say hydrated are you referring to watering the mix or adding the limestone? I'm not sure if you're speaking about Water of Hydration, or just watering?

You've got the idea. MIx it all together, moisten the soil and put it in some large can or bin and cover it. Don't seal it up...just make sure the top layer stays moist and humid. I usually try to turn the soil over at the two week mark and re-wet it as necessary, usually no more than half a gallon after it's mixed together again.

If things went right the soil will be warm, smell delicious---foul smelling means you should air it out and get the anaerobic bacteria under control before using it....but that soil can have really good sulfur content too. I try to avoid it, however, because the roots have a harder time hooking up it seems.

You shouldn't be able to make a dirt clod with the soil when it's in the can. It should just unclump. Yours might not be quite that loose, because the Roots product I'm asking you to add (no one else will do this unless they go from fresh peat, like you) has magnuesium in it. Your soil might be slightly clumpier, but not much.

You should be able to wipe your hand clean after handling the soil.

What's your grow environment like?
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Ok! :high-five:
I was talking about hydrated as watering the peat before I measure its volume, I don´t know if it will expand with the watering thats why I was asking.
I´m taking notes on the soil cook. :thanks: Do you think an AACT will help activate the cooking? I´m using microbeman recipes, it works without adding nutes to the soil, mostly a rich microherd (I will be analyzing the microbiological compositcion on an optic microscope soon).

My grow environment consist of a 2.6x2.6 veg tent(12+1 GLR) with 400MH and a 3.3x3.3 bloom tent on 400HPS, both with AC and extractor. I´m controling both RH and temp in the tents and will be using DIY to supplement the AC with CO2 during daylight. I will be having 2 plants flowering and will be adding 2 more at midflower.
 
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