Doc Bud: All Organic OG Kush SCROG

Well then I will use 1/2 cup of powdered alfalfa, a tablespoon of mollasses, a 1/4 teaspoon of Pond Zyme and a quarter cup of worm castings to make 4 gallons of tea for my first addition of the organic end as my girls are at the end of stretch right now. The OC+ is the main nute and I want to add beneficials to get some micro action started. What strain is that crystally masterpiece?
 
Well then I will use 1/2 cup of powdered alfalfa, a tablespoon of mollasses, a 1/4 teaspoon of Pond Zyme and a quarter cup of worm castings to make 4 gallons of tea for my first addition of the organic end as my girls are at the end of stretch right now. The OC+ is the main nute and I want to add beneficials to get some micro action started. What strain is that crystally masterpiece?

I'd leave out the Pondzyme. I have no idea what it would do in a tea mix.....never studied it, considered it, or heard of it being used.

Also, you'll need more than 1/4 cup of worm castings.....use like 3 or 4 cups. The rest sounds good....maybe add a pinch of micro's. I put a general recipe for tea a page back......

The "crystally masterpiece" is some mysterious Thai strain. I'm going to take some pics today where I'll focus on the chocothai/NZ PK.....purple, and gorgeous. Smells like a box of chocolates.
 
The two aspects of the garden are still online. The plants are dying....well, some of them are about to die for sure. I'd give them a week, max. Others might last a while longer....

The OG Kush side:

I've just recently hit 'em with some epsom salts....the buds are forming and ripening very fast and they're using Mag like never before.
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The NZ PK side:

The buds have very interesting formation, like purple and green, hairy strawberries stacked along the branches. Gooey, dense, starting to get resinous. The smell is like chocolate. I don't want to smoke them, I want to eat several with a glass of milk.
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The Lemon Thai:
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The rest:
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Just Awesome! Amazing what a proper enviroment and someone who goes about it scientifically can achieve. Any guesses what you may get under 2000W?

Do u medicate after 9? I thought i ready read that. Well its time for u to medicate
 
Just Awesome! Amazing what a proper enviroment and someone who goes about it scientifically can achieve. Any guesses what you may get under 2000W?

Do u medicate after 9? I thought i ready read that. Well its time for u to medicate

I agree! Time to smoke one! I dried the lowermost branch from that large Lemon Thai and I'm going to enjoy it tonite. Amazing taste! Very relaxing, upbeat effect. (tried some yesterday....still not dry)

I should get about 2.5 to 3 pounds on the OG under 2000 watts.
 
I agree! Time to smoke one! I dried the lowermost branch from that large Lemon Thai and I'm going to enjoy it tonite. Amazing taste! Very relaxing, upbeat effect. (tried some yesterday....still not dry)

I should get about 2.5 to 3 pounds on the OG under 2000 watts.

Just amazing how you get those massive colas.
 
Just amazing how you get those massive colas.

Yeah.....except all I'm doing is making a nice environment for the plants. It's not hard.....anyone can do it.

But for some reason, people want to start growing before they have a decent grow room, so they are at the mercy of the weather.

Start with decent genetics, create a controllable, optimal environment, use 3 gallon or more pots of dirt......and large, dense, sticky colas magically appear!

Of course, most people will skip a step...usually the environment....
 
Yeah.....except all I'm doing is making a nice environment for the plants. It's not hard.....anyone can do it.

But for some reason, people want to start growing before they have a decent grow room, so they are at the mercy of the weather.

Start with decent genetics, create a controllable, optimal environment, use 3 gallon or more pots of dirt......and large, dense, sticky colas magically appear!

Of course, most people will skip a step...usually the environment....

Enviroment is key! I went without AC again and crop turned out weak during summer. Amazing how well the fall crop came out, all organic. I just need to get some electrical done so I can run an AC, and go with the super soil. If the AC gets done I may just add another 600W light to the 18sq/ft footprint. 1800W should do the trick.
 
Enviroment is key! I went without AC again and crop turned out weak during summer. Amazing how well the fall crop came out, all organic. I just need to get some electrical done so I can run an AC, and go with the super soil. If the AC gets done I may just add another 600W light to the 18sq/ft footprint. 1800W should do the trick.

yep.....and get a decent controller that can turn everything on and off as needed. You're good to go then.
 
any recommedations on the controller?


I use a Sentinel CHHC-4 Sentinel: SENTINEL CHHC-4/TOTAL ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLLER - 3 YEAR WARRANTY NEW [702531] - Environmental Controllers - Environmental Control - Discount Specialty Farm, Greenhouse & Garden Supply Store - Horticulture Source

It allows seperate day and night temps, as well as RH settings. It has a plug in for a heater and AC and a choice for either a humidifier or a de-humidifier.

There are deadband settings, as well as settings that will allow you to cut off extraction fans when the C02 is running.....of cut off C02 when the extraction fan is running, etc.

In other words, total, complete control of temp, rh, co2. If I want it 82 degrees, 52% RH with lights on and 1500 ppm.....it's done. If I want it 64 degrees with 40% RH with lights off, done. Everything plugs in to the controller, including the AC, which is always set on mega-cool but has auto-restart. It's very important to make sure your AC has auto-restart.

You'll spend a few bucks on this controller, but you'll also save a few bucks....especially if you are running C02, because it comes with fuzzy logic already on board.

The remote sensor allows me to put it in the canopy, where it belongs.

I've seen lots of controllers and this one is the best....by far, hands down.

It can be mounted outside the grow room if you like, which gives you a means of monitoring things. You can also recall high and low settings for temp, rh, ppm so you can see the extremes of the garden.

It's made life very easy for me.
 
Doc, can you help with a leaf problem? I haven't seen it like this in the books I have nor on line.

Strain is DNA Diesel 8th week of flowering. Should be done in a week or two and don't wanna mess her up.
I'm using OC+, dolmite, limestone, etc in my soil, and have been using DynaGro Bloom, Epsom, Molasses and SSU. All my other plants get the same feeding and none are showing this.
I have used one of those cheap probe ph meters and all the plants are around the high 6 range, but this one strangely shows like high 4's in one corner of the pot, and 6ish all the other corners.
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You can see it is wide spread on the plant.
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Doc, can you help with a leaf problem? I haven't seen it like this in the books I have nor on line.

Strain is DNA Diesel 8th week of flowering. Should be done in a week or two and don't wanna mess her up.
I'm using OC+, dolmite, limestone, etc in my soil, and have been using DynaGro Bloom, Epsom, Molasses and SSU. All my other plants get the same feeding and none are showing this.
I have used one of those cheap probe ph meters and all the plants are around the high 6 range, but this one strangely shows like high 4's in one corner of the pot, and 6ish all the other corners.
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You can see it is wide spread on the plant.
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It's really hard to say what it is.....my best guess is normal senescence. You have 2 more weeks to go?

NO PROBLEM!

I'd give them a big PK spike, let the buds harden up and swell, and just don't worry! You've got more than enough green, productive leaf to see you through.

In the future, I'd consider not using both limestone and dolomite. You could be overdone on calcium, which can interfere with Mg uptake. You could also have too much magnesium, which interferes with calcium and potassium uptake......you could also have both going on at the same time!

Where did you get your soil recipe from? How did you arrive at including both limestone and dolomite?

Having said all that, I wouldn't worry. The picture you show above is a plant that is quite healthy enough to finish.
 
Ty for the answer Doc.

I'm not exactly sure where I got the soil recipe, I think it called for either one, and I had both around and used half amount each. This is the first major problem with any leaves in 4 grows.
 
Ty for the answer Doc.

I'm not exactly sure where I got the soil recipe, I think it called for either one, and I had both around and used half amount each. This is the first major problem with any leaves in 4 grows.

Do you:

Understand what is in Dolomite Lime?
Limestone?

Know what each is used for and how they differ?

Also, if you never had problems with leaves before, why did you decide to add the lime and dolomite?

Most soil is pH balanced right out of the bag. If using OC+, I'd add NOTHING to a quality soil.

The only cause for adding dolomite is if you're also amending with a great deal or organic material that will lower pH substantially.

Limestone is a quick acting source of Calcium and magnesium...but mostly calcium. It also raises soil pH, as does dolomite.

Don't add stuff like that unless you have a reason. Generally speaking, a quality potting soil needs no tinkering at all, unless you're adding lots of organic material.
 
Doc, to be honest I don't know the difference in the two, I thought they did the same thing. I saw it used somewhere else

I didn't just add it this time. I have used them either alone or combined in all my grows. Same with the nutes. Only difference this grow is I switched from Gianormous to Dynagro Bloom.

Next batch it's soil and OC+.

Thanks again Doc.
 
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