Couldn't Resist A Christmas Auto Grow

[Carcass]

The auto flowering thing is easy for me- when I see pistils, she's flowering. I don't think autos have time for much pre-flowering..(just my opinion)

Now this plant has only two limbs and a poorly super-cropped stem.

Don't despair, Carmen- this one (Alaskan Purple auto) started with just two limbs...and almost no stem..
her top was a mutant mess, so it got removed, leaving only node 1 to work with...

And a few months later...

2 limbs is all you really need... when that's all there is...

but- it won't do this on it's own, so please, even though right now it's a pain in the ass, keep going with the training- it gets easier as things get bigger..

 

[Mr. Krip]

but I to think harvesting based on trichome state is a better determinant.

Actually, the first time I grow a specific pheno, I like to take test buds along the way. When it's where I want it, I note the trichome colors for the next grow/harvest of that pheno, and chop.

Trichomes are not always indicative of when best to chop, especially since different users want different effects and some strains peak long before there's a single amber trichome.

 

[Azimuth]

Actually, the first time I grow a specific pheno, I like to take test buds along the way. When it's where I want it, I note the trichome colors for the next grow/harvest of that pheno, and chop.

Trichomes are not always indicative of when best to chop, especially since different users want different effects and some strains peak long before there's a single amber trichome.

Sure, but even in your case you're basing your harvest time on trichomes,  not the breeders time estimate.

You said you harvest based on trichome status for that plant, which may be different from what you consider done on another plant, never mind what another grower likes. But it's still determined by some status of the tricomes.

My original point was that the only reason I can think of for needing to know the age of an auto was for training purposes (i.e. finish training by day 25 or some such), and by inference suggesting that if the OP was counting days or wanting to know how many days in flower to base a harvest date on, that there might be a better way to do it.

 

[Nev]

Hi Carmen I took a couple pictures a few days ago of my autos and the beginning of their training. I will start using my carhooks as the plant gets a little larger. I don’t use them in close to the stalk of the plant.
I cut small pieces of pipe cleaner and tie the limb to the fan. And do not twist tie the pipe cleaner. Just a wrap no tie or you can play hell getting it off.

I also softly push the limbs down everyday keeping them limber for when they get tied down. In this photo only the bottom limbs have been tied down. Then in a day or two I will start the next set. I will continue to use the pipe cleaners until we get closer to the edge of the pot and the limbs have strengthened .

 

[InTheShed]

I cut small pieces of pipe cleaner and tie the limb to the fan.

StankClips®! Well done carrying on the tradition Nev.

 

[Nev]

Well done carrying on the tradition

I new you’d have the correct link beings I discovered it on your personal perpetual link of banter.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Sure, but even in your case you're basing your harvest time on trichomes,  not the breeders time estimate.

You said you harvest based on trichome status for that plant, which may be different from what you consider done on another plant, never mind what another grower likes. But it's still determined by some status of the tricomes.

My original point was that the only reason I can think of for needing to know the age of an auto was for training purposes (i.e. finish training by day 25 or some such), and by inference suggesting that if the OP was counting days or wanting to know how many days in flower to base a harvest date on, that there might be a better way to do it.

I understand and agree that going by Breeder's # of days in flower isn't ideal. I was simply pointing out that, IMHO, the best way to tell if your plant is ready is to take samples. Some growers try to harvest everything when, for example, they see 10% amber trichs. While that might work well for some plants, it may not work as well for others.

 

[Mr. Krip]

I understand and agree that going by Breeder's # of days in flower isn't ideal. I was simply pointing out that, IMHO, the best way to tell if your plant is ready is to take samples. Some growers try to harvest everything when, for example, they see 10% amber trichs. While that might work well for some plants, it may not work as well for others.

Here are a couple of excerpts from posts I made several years ago:

a study of over 300 dry cannabis samples indicated minimal correlation between trichome color and potency, except in relation to darker brown samples, which are clearly past the peak of potency - Handbook of Cannabis, Potter 2009, p.77.

OK....I'm probably gonna create a stir with this, but I've said it before and I'll say it again....

Trichome color is not really a good way to indicate harvest time on a strain you have not grown before. Best way to judge readiness is to sample. When it's where you want it, note the trichome color so next time you grow that cut, you can harvest based on color.

I had posted this video in one of my first journals and several times since when engaging in similar discussions. This is Jorge Cervantes scoping some Indica Cannabis Cup winners. Listen to what he says right around 5:25 into the video. He no longer uses trichome color as a way to judge harvest timing:

 

[InTheShed]

Here are a couple of excerpts from posts I made several years ago:

a study of over 300 dry cannabis samples indicated minimal correlation between trichome color and potency, except in relation to darker brown samples, which are clearly past the peak of potency - Handbook of Cannabis, Potter 2009, p.77.

Was that based on 300 actual cannabinoid content chromatography tests? Because Jorge's description in the video is about as unscientific as a lot of the advice we read on this site.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Was that based on 300 actual cannabinoid content chromatography tests? Because Jorge's description in the video is about as unscientific as a lot of the advice we read on this site.

I don't know (or remember) the details of that study. I just have the original footnote of the quote as "Handbook of Cannabis, Potter 2009, p.77"

This is separate from what Cervantes discusses. They just happen to agree with each other on their conclusions.

Anyone is free to disagree with them. I just provide the info here!

 

[InTheShed]

I don't know (or remember) the details of that study. I just have the original footnote of the quote as "Handbook of Cannabis, Potter 2009, p.77"

This is separate from what Cervantes discusses. They just happen to agree with each other on their conclusions.

Anyone is free to disagree with them. I just provide the info here!

Thanks Mr Krip, now we just wait for someone with a copy of the Handbook!

 

[Carmen Ray]

Hey friends, thank you for the photos and descriptions. I find it a lot easier to learn from action and seeing pictures.

Don't despair, Carmen- this one (Alaskan Purple auto) started with just two limbs...and almost no stem..
her top was a mutant mess, so it got removed, leaving only node 1 to work with...

Good grief Carcass and it exploded into bloom.

And a few months later...

Absolutely extraordinary.

2 limbs is all you really need... when that's all there is...

but- it won't do this on it's own, so please, even though right now it's a pain in the ass, keep going with the training- it gets easier as things get bigger..

The internodes are so little between the clusters of pistils that is it hard to do more without damaging the flowering parts. I think I must try with pipe cleaners for those teeny branches.

Actually, the first time I grow a specific pheno, I like to take test buds along the way. When it's where I want it, I note the trichome colors for the next grow/harvest of that pheno, and chop.

Goodness. I imagine that takes years of practice and focused observation. I am an auto newb and certainly not that experienced with photos!

My original point was that the only reason I can think of for needing to know the age of an auto was for training purposes (i.e. finish training by day 25 or some such), and by inference suggesting that if the OP was counting days or wanting to know how many days in flower to base a harvest date on, that there might be a better way to do it.

Hi Azi, nothing to do with harvest. I just want to document each stage so that I can learn to do it better the next time.

I also softly push the limbs down everyday keeping them limber for when they get tied down. In this photo only the bottom limbs have been tied down. Then in a day or two I will start the next set. I will continue to use the pipe cleaners until we get closer to the edge of the pot and the limbs have strengthened .

You know what I did right? I flattened the branches and wired them flat lol I will start gently next time lol.

personal perpetual link of banter

love that

 

[Mr. Krip]

Thanks Mr Krip, now we just wait for someone with a copy of the Handbook!

This was a scientific publication. It used to be available online, I think, but I'm looking for it and don't see it, yet.

Here's an abstract of the book, I found:

Abstract​

Of the many plants used by the pharmaceutical industry, cannabis is perhaps the only major one grown indoors. This provides extra security and enables GW Pharma to repeatedly grow batches of phytopharmaceutical feedstock of the high quality needed to produce a botanical drug like Sativex®. This multicomponent medicine contains a range of secondary metabolites, including the cannabinoids. By growing the plants in optimized uniform conditions, as outlined here, a consistent ratio of ingredients can be achieved. This chapter describes the morphology of the cannabis plant with specific emphasis on the trichomes, which produce the pharmaceutically important secondary metabolites. The possible natural function of these trichomes is debated. The growth of the plant in a natural outdoor setting, and in an indoor controlled environment, is compared, and newly emerging autoflowering plants described. The effect of contrasting growing conditions on plant morphology and secondary metabolite content is discussed.

I did find this thesis from the same author at around the same timeframe so you can see the type of research he was doing:

Potter Thesis 2009 | PDF | Cannabis (Drug) | Cannabis

Scribd is the world's largest social reading and publishing site.

www.scribd.com

 

[Carmen Ray]

Thursday 19th January 2023 Update
​

I am unable to get SaugaViews because the pots are too heavy for me to lift these days. I can't get in under the light. I have taken a series of each plant hoping that you can guide me, you Auto enthusiasts.

This is the Red Russian XXL Auto

TO BE CONTINUED

 

[Carmen Ray]

CONTINUED​

This is the Skywalker Kush Cut Auto minus two main branches

I am a bit concerned that some of the little pistils are brownish. I am thinking that they possibly got squashed by the hooks which are just too big for this plant. The other option is that they may be too close to the light at 30 cm.

I hope these pics give you enough to go on to give me a full-on critique please.
I may as well say this here now because it has become a problem and I am going to have to adapt the way I train. I am shaking so much that I am tearing shit off left right and center, and squashing new growth. I have Parkinson's Disease so that aint gonna get any better. If anyone knows any growers at 420 with Parkinson's please ask them if they would be willing to contact me in pm.

Please understand if I take a little longer to catch up with the journals I sub to. I am feeling very flat and exhausted for much of the time.

Best wishes for a lovely day.

 

[StoneOtter]

Your auto's will be fine untrained if you're beating them up too much Carmen! Matter of fact my sausage kielbasa fingers don't always fit in to top an auto and I have to grow them out natural.

 

[Weffalo]

@Roy Growin advised me he just tips autos between node 4 and 5 and they grow really well, I think he said he averages around 3oz+ per plant? You'd have to double check with him but that sounds a much less involved way of achieving good results that could work for you Carmen?

 

[Roy Growin]

@Roy Growin advised me he just tips autos between node 4 and 5 and they grow really well, I think he said he averages around 3oz+ per plant? You'd have to double check with him but that sounds a much less involved way of achieving good results that could work for you Carmen?

Yep - in fact I am looking to take the tips out of my current grow today, approx 16 days above ground
It needs to be done as soon as practical to give the plant time to shape up/level off the canopy

No way I can get sausage fingers into the tiny tip either, so I flatten the two new leaves either side to expose the tip stem, then use a bonsai clipper to snip off about 5mm - only the very tip, just enough to cleanly take off the top bud site

Will update my grow journal with some pictures later

 

[InTheShed]

I'm wondering if pipe cleaners are more forgiving in your case than the garden wire. Pipe cleaners allow you to hook the end over the branch with no stress on the plant, and then you can slowly pull the other end through a binder clip "squeezer" to lower the branch into place. When it's they way you want you just bend the pipe cleaner up and it's locked into place,

 

[Nev]

I totally agree with all of the above solutions. Try to get some pipe cleaners they are much more suitable to train the smaller autos. The green gardens wire is really too heavy I also have some but can‘t use it on the autos.
If that becomes to difficult just a topping above the 4th node in veg and your golden.
Your plants are looking healthy an looking like some nice buds coming up or way!