Cottage 420's Organic Perpetual Indoor Garden

Hey Fert... no worries on the spam all good here for sure.

Check out what Woody posted.

We don't get russets here on the east coat ... knock wood, at least I've not seen them. We get a shit ton of other pests tho.

It's the WARM temps + dry conditions... winter time with heat on in the house warms things up and dries out the flower room some. As soon as my RH goes into the low 30%... I get mites.

I VEG in #3 Nursery pots... the plants are root bound in about 35 days... If I dont up-pot them even if not going into flower they will start to loose leaves and show signs they are not happy. I've got that now on a few plants in VEG. Sometimes I will just cull or take cuts and cull and start over with that plant. Having a root bound plant is an invitation and dinner bell for pests specially in organic soil. Gotta give the plants some soil.

Was reading thru your journal those plants with necrosis look like root bound issues and they are sorting out, the new growth looks fine to me.

Try not to change too many variables.... I would just stick with your spinosad IPM and thats it.. I would not use the neem oil... it's pretty strong. Let your plants bounce back and green up some more..

On those big buckets... see if you can drill some holes at the base or a little above the btm and put something under them to catch any water run off. Roots & soil need oxygen. Without oxygen your soil can go anaerobic and that will kill plants very quickly.
 
bobrown14 said:
Hey Fert... no worries on the spam all good here for sure.

Check out what Woody posted.

We don't get russets here on the east coat ... knock wood, at least I've not seen them. We get a shit ton of other pests tho.

It's the WARM temps + dry conditions... winter time with heat on in the house warms things up and dries out the flower room some. As soon as my RH goes into the low 30%... I get mites.

I VEG in #3 Nursery pots... the plants are root bound in about 35 days... If I dont up-pot them even if not going into flower they will start to loose leaves and show signs they are not happy. I've got that now on a few plants in VEG. Sometimes I will just cull or take cuts and cull and start over with that plant. Having a root bound plant is an invitation and dinner bell for pests specially in organic soil. Gotta give the plants some soil.

Was reading thru your journal those plants with necrosis look like root bound issues and they are sorting out, the new growth looks fine to me.

Try not to change too many variables.... I would just stick with your spinosad IPM and thats it.. I would not use the neem oil... it's pretty strong. Let your plants bounce back and green up some more..

On those big buckets... see if you can drill some holes at the base or a little above the btm and put something under them to catch any water run off. Roots & soil need oxygen. Without oxygen your soil can go anaerobic and that will kill plants very quickly.
Click to expand...

Glad I know how to read rootbound by now.

IMG_20170602_124646.jpg

IMG_20170602_122400.jpg


I prop them up on top of those little sorting drawer things to keep the pots out of the runoff as well. Is that kind of what you meant?
 
Hey all...interested to hear peoples opinions about when to use Mycos.....I've seen some say they even use it for germinating, so after soaking the seed for 12 hours they'll roll it in mycos then into w/e medium of their choice.....I'd think at any stage in which we have access to the roots, whether you transplant from pete > solo cup > 3 gal > 7 gal and so on or just solo > 7 gal, that you should always take the opportunity to to use mycos.....wondering peoples thoughts if there's "too much" when it comes to using mycos?
 
...or cold beer!...:rofl:...Good question GOP!...as a relative newbie to organic growing I'm interested in hearing bob's thoughts as well...this past grow I added Recharge probably six times throughout the process...there were no ill effects...cheerz...h00k...:Hookah:
 
Pennywise said:
I can't see there ever being too much Mykos
Click to expand...

I spent some time trying to understand these symbiotic relationships of plant and microbes. I'm still reading Jeff Lowenfels' first two books and I'm sure there are other sources on the subject.

Not trying to totally disagree here. I'm of the thought now that the bacteria and the mycorrhizal fungi have to have a balance. I'm not sure the balance can truly be found without an expensive microscope and a lot of comparing growth of very similar plants throughout multiple complete grows under strict environmental conditions. Add to that a consistent mineralized medium that would be required for all those comparison grows and it becomes more difficult to measure. I tend to mix a little different each time.

I did notice my last AACT had visible hyphae and it surprised me a bit as all the compost came from my tumbler.

Again...not trying to disagree as I've added Mykos at the seed level and it is in my mix. There are times my plants look very good. Then there are other times.

:bongrip:
 
hey bb garden is lookn great brotha awesome job with the cream de le what ever pic lol that one looked like it should be a winner ur plants always look so good making one start :drool: over here lol but yea i had a question about the ipm and pollen if i pollinated one of my girls i shoudlnt do an ipm on her should i cause i thought wetness will kill the pollen?? if i should not ipm her how long should i wait b4 i can do an ipm on her again??
 
TheFertilizer said:
Glad I know how to read rootbound by now.

I prop them up on top of those little sorting drawer things to keep the pots out of the runoff as well. Is that kind of what you meant?
Click to expand...

Yes... very nice... I couldn't tell from the pics if you had drains there or not. In my #3 pots I water until water come out into the tray the pots sit in. In a few hours the roots drink up the excess... and repeat that daily until I up-pot (once the plants are 10-12" tall).

GOP said:
Hey all...interested to hear peoples opinions about when to use Mycos.....I've seen some say they even use it for germinating, so after soaking the seed for 12 hours they'll roll it in mycos then into w/e medium of their choice.....I'd think at any stage in which we have access to the roots, whether you transplant from pete > solo cup > 3 gal > 7 gal and so on or just solo > 7 gal, that you should always take the opportunity to to use mycos.....wondering peoples thoughts if there's "too much" when it comes to using mycos?
Click to expand...

Some folks much smarter than I, think all you need to do is get the roots in contact with the mycos at the beginning when you up-pot from seedling.

I'm not totally convinced.

I don't mess with seeds too much, all I do is soak them in a water/H2o2 solution overnight.

Then into peat pellets into a dome with heat pad underneath. Every time I try something fancy with the seeds, it usually ends in a disaster.

Once I go from seedling (with a longish tap root), I put mycos in the hole and plant the seedling in there - prey for the best. Lots of times I will just put the seedling with this tap root in a cup with some soil and a light sprinkle of mycos.

After the seedling hardens off then I really get going with the Mycos at up-pot to my #3 pots. So by this time there's usually a nice root ball going in the cup.
(sometimes I just go seedling to #3 pot..I get the same result either way).

When I up-pot to the #3 pot - I put in 3 types of mycos - 1 tbs Mykes brand for flowers (orange tub), 1 tsp VAM & 1 tsp SAT (Sustainable Agriculture Technology) mycos. BTW - The Mykes stuff is the same mycos Premier uses in their bags of ProMix.

I put all 3 in the hole for the plant at up-pot and mix in a few tbs of EWC... mix that together in the btm of the hole and put my plant in there either clones with bare roots or seedlings hardened off. Then I do this same procedure at up-pot to my final container right before going into flower room. We do a similar ritual in our outdoor gardens as well.

Once I added the SAT stuff, that's when my plants really started taking off... I've been experimenting a bunch with different versions and different brands and different combos. The above is what I've settled with after a few years of trying out different versions.


I haven't tried foiler on mycos yet...


I agree with PW - never enough.... I've watered in with it.. cant say I noticed anything different tho... not like watering in with malted barley.

Speaking of seedlings.. blue moon this month... will figure out best time to start seedlings and report back.
 
Blazinjones said:
hey bb garden is lookn great brotha awesome job with the cream de le what ever pic lol that one looked like it should be a winner ur plants always look so good making one start :drool: over here lol but yea i had a question about the ipm and pollen if i pollinated one of my girls i shoudlnt do an ipm on her should i cause i thought wetness will kill the pollen?? if i should not ipm her how long should i wait b4 i can do an ipm on her again??
Click to expand...

Thanks Blaze... there's some mighty fine pics up this month... time to vote for the Nug of the Month too BTW.

Yeah on the pollen water kills it. I think once the pollen is in contact with the pistols... done and done. That said, I hold off IPM with flowers as much as I can.

You should be able to look at the calyx and notice a difference from pollinated vs not pollinated with a loop.... I can see the difference now after a few weeks with my sorry eyes. Pistols change shape (withdraw into calyx) as does the calyx after a bit they start getting fat. I think the pollination process takes about a day.... I'm no breeder but thats my understanding. So I would wait at least 24 hrs after pollination then IPM to be on the safe side.
 
bobrown14 said:
Thanks Blaze... there's some mighty fine pics up this month... time to vote for the Nug of the Month too BTW.

Yeah on the pollen water kills it. I think once the pollen is in contact with the pistols... done and done. That said, I hold off IPM with flowers as much as I can.

You should be able to look at the calyx and notice a difference from pollinated vs not pollinated with a loop.... I can see the difference now after a few weeks with my sorry eyes. Pistols change shape (withdraw into calyx) as does the calyx after a bit they start getting fat. I think the pollination process takes about a day.... I'm no breeder but thats my understanding. So I would wait at least 24 hrs after pollination then IPM to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...
Awesome thanx bro and yea i know I've been busy the past few days but wanted to get in n vote soon so mite do tht today lol
 
bobrown14 said:
Yes... very nice... I couldn't tell from the pics if you had drains there or not. In my #3 pots I water until water come out into the tray the pots sit in. In a few hours the roots drink up the excess... and repeat that daily until I up-pot (once the plants are 10-12" tall).



Some folks much smarter than I, think all you need to do is get the roots in contact with the mycos at the beginning when you up-pot from seedling.

I'm not totally convinced.

I don't mess with seeds too much, all I do is soak them in a water/H2o2 solution overnight.

Then into peat pellets into a dome with heat pad underneath. Every time I try something fancy with the seeds, it usually ends in a disaster.

Once I go from seedling (with a longish tap root), I put mycos in the hole and plant the seedling in there - prey for the best. Lots of times I will just put the seedling with this tap root in a cup with some soil and a light sprinkle of mycos.

After the seedling hardens off then I really get going with the Mycos at up-pot to my #3 pots. So by this time there's usually a nice root ball going in the cup.
(sometimes I just go seedling to #3 pot..I get the same result either way).

When I up-pot to the #3 pot - I put in 3 types of mycos - 1 tbs Mykes brand for flowers (orange tub), 1 tsp VAM & 1 tsp SAT (Sustainable Agriculture Technology) mycos. BTW - The Mykes stuff is the same mycos Premier uses in their bags of ProMix.

I put all 3 in the hole for the plant at up-pot and mix in a few tbs of EWC... mix that together in the btm of the hole and put my plant in there either clones with bare roots or seedlings hardened off. Then I do this same procedure at up-pot to my final container right before going into flower room. We do a similar ritual in our outdoor gardens as well.

Once I added the SAT stuff, that's when my plants really started taking off... I've been experimenting a bunch with different versions and different brands and different combos. The above is what I've settled with after a few years of trying out different versions.


I haven't tried foiler on mycos yet...


I agree with PW - never enough.... I've watered in with it.. cant say I noticed anything different tho... not like watering in with malted barley.

Speaking of seedlings.. blue moon this month... will figure out best time to start seedlings and report back.
Click to expand...

Quick question for you Bob, where do you generally get your malted barley from? Is there a particular brand you recommend. I glanced at amazon but it looks like most of them I found seem to be for brewing beer. Not sure if those are the right kind or if there is a specific type that is best for gardening.
 
MagicJim said:
I spent some time trying to understand these symbiotic relationships of plant and microbes. I'm still reading Jeff Lowenfels' first two books and I'm sure there are other sources on the subject.

Not trying to totally disagree here. I'm of the thought now that the bacteria and the mycorrhizal fungi have to have a balance. I'm not sure the balance can truly be found without an expensive microscope and a lot of comparing growth of very similar plants throughout multiple complete grows under strict environmental conditions. Add to that a consistent mineralized medium that would be required for all those comparison grows and it becomes more difficult to measure. I tend to mix a little different each time.

I did notice my last AACT had visible hyphae and it surprised me a bit as all the compost came from my tumbler.

Again...not trying to disagree as I've added Mykos at the seed level and it is in my mix. There are times my plants look very good. Then there are other times.

:bongrip:
Click to expand...

Not disagreeing, more inquiring....my understanding of Mycos is it has to come directly in contact with the root itself within a 24hr period or it dies off, whereas B/A won't, so they have a much better chance at survival when used in a tea...since fungi will die, I would assume it's best to give them direct contact with the roots any chance you have to give them their best shot

Van Stank said:
Quick question for you Bob, where do you generally get your malted barley from? Is there a particular brand you recommend. I glanced at amazon but it looks like most of them I found seem to be for brewing beer. Not sure if those are the right kind or if there is a specific type that is best for gardening.
Click to expand...

I hounded Bob about this too...beer brewing ones is what you want, the specifics you want are "2 row organic" and you don't want them milled, you'll want them in the full grain. When ready to use grind it up into powder form(coffee grinder or something)...if that's not an option you can buy the milled form, just know there'll be a much lower enzyme count not grinding it yourself...also keep stored in freezer as pests like mice are attracted to it
 
ilikemsticky said:
it was hard to like that comment sorry bob damm i hope you can get control of them before theres any real damage I've never had mites and don't want them good luck with your mite patrol kill them ff.!
Click to expand...

Thanks Sticky... time to chop me thinkin... was in there 3 days in a row, there's WAY too many places for them to hide while replicating... the Borg are back. Borrowed time I was doing well... on the brite side, there's a full stall of girls waiting in the wings. I found them early so there almost dead in their tracks. The fuck part is; now I have to bud wash. All good ...

Thinking gonna chop the big girls and stop the damage. They are fattening up and won't do much of that trying to fight off mites. I have a few branches that I've pollinated so I wanted (the greedy part) to wait until the seeds were mature. I've got seeds thanks to my 420mag friends :high-five: so, yeah gonna chop and sort out seeds later.

I do this every winter... heat turns on to keep me warm, drops the humidity down ... 3 weeks ago the humidity was 70%, now RH @ 30-40% and warm, mite fks. show up. I took a risk, soooo many colas. Nothing I could do really... I've got a REAL nice harvest, just need to keep the mites at bay until I can get those big ladies outta there.

This harvest is going to be epic (for me). I think I've got some 3-4' long donkey shlong colas in there. I think I need a budder machine! hahahahaha

Maybe go down to the Nepalese section of town and see if I can hire me some hash ladies... <-- thats an idea right there.

So IPM 3 days in a row... last day (today) I added some Neem oil... I couldn't get the whole room so I expect to need some more work done. Only reason to do 3 days in a row is that it's sooo thick with flowers impossible to get everything... mites take advantage of that. Borg... fks.. I'm not really worried about the finishing plants as much as my next round. I have 3 plants in there now in early to mid flower. Always think about the future... 25-30 days down the road or more.

Lab love:

DSC_0010_2_8.JPG



Dolato #1.. she's finishing REAL fast wow. 2 weeks ago it was spindly w/bud sites a mile apart. Not any more.

DSC_0003_2_5.JPG
 
bobrown14 said:
Thanks Sticky... time to chop me thinkin... was in there 3 days in a row, there's WAY too many places for them to hide while replicating... the Borg are back. Borrowed time I was doing well... on the brite side, there's a full stall of girls waiting in the wings. I found them early so there almost dead in their tracks. The fuck part is; now I have to bud wash. All good ...

Thinking gonna chop the big girls and stop the damage. They are fattening up and won't do much of that trying to fight off mites. I have a few branches that I've pollinated so I wanted (the greedy part) to wait until the seeds were mature. I've got seeds thanks to my 420mag friends :high-five: so, yeah gonna chop and sort out seeds later.

I do this every winter... heat turns on to keep me warm, drops the humidity down ... 3 weeks ago the humidity was 70%, now RH @ 30-40% and warm, mite fks. show up. I took a risk, soooo many colas. Nothing I could do really... I've got a REAL nice harvest, just need to keep the mites at bay until I can get those big ladies outta there.

This harvest is going to be epic (for me). I think I've got some 3-4' long donkey shlong colas in there. I think I need a budder machine! hahahahaha

Maybe go down to the Nepalese section of town and see if I can hire me some hash ladies... <-- thats an idea right there.

So IPM 3 days in a row... last day (today) I added some Neem oil... I couldn't get the whole room so I expect to need some more work done. Only reason to do 3 days in a row is that it's sooo thick with flowers impossible to get everything... mites take advantage of that. Borg... fks.. I'm not really worried about the finishing plants as much as my next round. I have 3 plants in there now in early to mid flower. Always think about the future... 25-30 days down the road or more.

Lab love:

DSC_0010_2_8.JPG



Dolato #1.. she's finishing REAL fast wow. 2 weeks ago it was spindly w/bud sites a mile apart. Not any more.

DSC_0003_2_5.JPG
Click to expand...
Hard to read any comments that have that word "Mite" in them, what a shame..... Your girls still look incredible though!
 
Pennywise said:
Had the Borg show up one time and it was a nightmare!
Click to expand...

i haven't had them yet" knock on wood" i say yet because it seems most growers get to deal with them at least once some growers can't seem to get rid of them, its disheartening to see this happen I'm sure bob will get thru it but still sucks the stress of it,imagine what its like for farmers who base there entire living on the crop they have and some free of nature wipes it out,i just had some m2 and that shit makes me want to talk sorry for the ramble!
 
Hey B.Brown I tried surfing and finding which mites you said you have but couldent. If no Russets on the E.coast must be Spider and or Broad Mites your dealing with? I wonder if the Broad Mites are as hard to rid as the Russets? Ive found the "Nuke Em" worked the best for me with the Russets. Their website has 40% off coupon. I kept mine from hurting the tent. Completely eradicated them a few weeks ago. Im so happy I kept them from the buds. They completely ruined my 2017 yard grow. Not this year. Great Day, 4D
 
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