Colombian Andes Greenhouse SIP CBD Auto Grow

As far as I know, that's not true. If you want max THC and CBD, go for full ripe.
CBD, that is great to know! Thank you! So I will let her go another couple of weeks, then then cut and prepare the SIP for something else.

:thanks:
 
What cbdhemp said. Let the plant ripen same as always.
Great!!
Thanks, Shed!
I am not sure what a "normal" cut and cure routine is.
With photos I was told that it is good to let them sit in the dark for three days. (True? False?)
Also, that it is good to lemon-juice-wash them, and then leave them under a light fan until all danger of mold (or other rot) has passed. Then once the wetness has passed, they can sit in the open without a fan while they dry (like any other kitchen herb). (True? False?)
I was also told that the longer they take to dry, the better the quality bud (not sure why). (True? False?)
Thanks, you guys!
 
I'm no expert on proper drying and curing, but I'll take a crack at this...

I am not sure what a "normal" cut and cure routine is.
With photos I was told that it is good to let them sit in the dark for three days. (True? False?)
I'm not familiar with that, but I'm guessing not necessary. What I do know is that terpenes are highest at the end of the night, so if you can harvest in the early morning, that's best. Since you are indoor, there may be some sense in more than one nights-worth of darkness... I just don't know.

Also, that it is good to lemon-juice-wash them, and then leave them under a light fan until all danger of mold (or other rot) has passed.
There are various methods to wash buds, but I personally wouldn't do it at all. [Assuming buds are trimmed immediately after harvest...] My logic is... if there's no mold observed during trimming, and you've got a drying environment with low enough humidity and good air flow, you're good to go. The buds won't get moldy during drying and curing. Even if there were perhaps invisible beginnings of mold in the buds during trimming, the mold wouldn't develop.

Then once the wetness has passed, they can sit in the open without a fan while they dry (like any other kitchen herb). (True? False?)
I was also told that the longer they take to dry, the better the quality bud (not sure why). (True? False?)
For drying, temperature and humidity are the key. Terpenes are best preserved by keeping the temperature below 68°F. At 68° and above, terpenes start to evaporate. As for length of time for drying, and the nuances of curing, all I can do is refer you to Rosenthal's recommendations, HERE.
 
I'm no expert on proper drying and curing, but I'll take a crack at this...


I'm not familiar with that, but I'm guessing not necessary. What I do know is that terpenes are highest at the end of the night, so if you can harvest in the early morning, that's best. Since you are indoor, there may be some sense in more than one nights-worth of darkness... I just don't know.


There are various methods to wash buds, but I personally wouldn't do it at all. [Assuming buds are trimmed immediately after harvest...] My logic is... if there's no mold observed during trimming, and you've got a drying environment with low enough humidity and good air flow, you're good to go. The buds won't get moldy during drying and curing. Even if there were perhaps invisible beginnings of mold in the buds during trimming, the mold wouldn't develop.


For drying, temperature and humidity are the key. Terpenes are best preserved by keeping the temperature below 68°F. At 68° and above, terpenes start to evaporate. As for length of time for drying, and the nuances of curing, all I can do is refer you to Rosenthal's recommendations, HERE.
Ok, got it! Thanks, CBD!
 
:reading420magazine:
Ohhh..... I am in wayy o'er me head!
The girls continue to show signs of P deficiency.
This little girl has it the worst.

ppp.jpg


I just got the BioNova PK13-14.
I went to their website to read the instructions.
It says:

Tips from Bionova growers

✔ Use 1 to 2 ml PK 13-14 in 10 liters of water in the second week of the growing stage to promote a faster roots development.
✔ When deficiencies phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) occur, the plant. Mainly these conditions of immobilization and deprivation of elements for the cultivation are due to poor substrates and abnormal pH values of the nutrient solution. To cure deficient plants you can apply a solution of PK 13-14 with dilution rate of 2.5-5 ml in 10 liters of water by irrigation or foliar spray.


So, just to double-check, 5ml = 1 teaspoon?
So, add 1 teaspoon in 10L (= 5ml in 2.5 gallons), and add to the res?
 
I was under the impression that P deficiencies start at the lower leaves (because it's mobile) and the yellowing is more random than just at the edges of the leaf.

Here is a video on a study of P def in cannabis where you can take a look at it up close:
Whoosh! Ok, well, then if it is not a P deficiency, what is it?
@Emilya Green :helpsmilie:

I am trying to look it up. It seems to look somewhat like a few different deficiencies. (I hope this is an OK website to quote. If not, admins please just let me know.)

Magnesium deficiency:
magnesium-deficiency-cannabis.jpg


Copper deficiency:
copper-deficiency-cannabis.jpg


Potassium deficiency (and I have one plant with burnt tips):
potassium-deficiency-cannabis-1.jpg


Or *possibly zinc deficiency:
zinc-deficiency-cannabis-1.jpg


*Possibly light burn? (Actually, now that I think about it, I had the light pretty close to that one for a while. The leaves were curling up a little. I had to turn the light down and let her rest, but that was maybe 3 days ago. Maybe that might be it? :hmmmm:
light-burn-cannabis-1.jpg


It does kinda seem like light stress could maybe be it (???)
That might also explain why it was just that plant...

ppp-jpg.2622468


Is that perhaps it?
And how does one help a little girl to recover from light stress?
 
More likely K than P for sure. And can't you get potassium from boiling banana peels?
Thanks, Shed!
I've got some of Azi and Emmie's Banana Peel Stink (er, um, [>AHEM!!<] "Jadam Nana Peel Tea"). I am sure it is loaded with P, but it also SMELLS!! And I've got a big meeting in the morning.
Very thankfully, the PK 13-14 just came in today, and it does NOT stink, so I will add it to the fertigation this evening.
Thank you! :thanks:
 
Yes, the water soluble bit of it anyway. A much larger yield of K will result by using fermentation for about 21 days.
The fermentation looks and smells nasty (with mold on top) after 'bout 3 weeks.
After about 3 months all of the crud falls to the bottom, and it turns into a nice, golden, stinky tea concentrate (for use outside!)
(PS, the label should read 1:25... 😬

pppp-jpg.2619875
 
I see yellow leaf tips without necrosis or distortion. I'm gonna vote early-stage magnesium deficiency.
Ok, thanks, Hemp!
So for this bucket I would just add more CalMag to the water?
(And add more CalMag to my water in general, as several of the other girls are showing similar signs, but less advanced?)
Did you resolve your soil pH issues?
Well, I am not 100% sure if I know what you mean.
The pH test kits are delayed. They say 12-18 January now. So I won't know how to re-mix my used soil until then, and even then it will take 6+ weeks to cook.
I checked, and the creek-water-in-a-tube was pH 5.3 (and who knows if it varies?)
The slurry test was pH 6.13, which is a little acid, but still within the realm.

613-jpg.2611441


I read the magnesium article.
>> A magnesium deficiency sometimes happens after supplementing plants with something that contains calcium but not magnesium, such as agricultural lime (non-dolomite lime), egg shells, etc.

Come to think of it, I do remember adding egg shell to some of the soil earlier, not realizing that it has to be balanced with magnesium 😬 😬
In fact, I think it is this batch of soil. 😬😬
So maybe that is what is throwing things off?
(Actually, if that is it, it would be good news.)

I added the PK13-14 last night. (Even if that was not the problem, I am sure plants in flower can use more PK.)
She doesn't seem to be drinking as much as the other plants of her size (which is kind of worrisome), but the next time I water, should I add more CalMag to the water in general, and then extra CalMag to the affected plant, to see if that helps?
And how long until I know?
 
The magnesium article says that one of the signs can be red stems.

>> "You may see red stems with a magnesium deficiency, though not always."

On the plants that are in flower, all are all red.

VLDA.&owa=outlook.office.com&scriptVer=20221209009.jpg



So for that I would maybe double up on the CalMag, and then see how it goes?
(And if so, then "Good shootin', CBD!"
 
Ok, thanks, Hemp!
So for this bucket I would just add more CalMag to the water?
Yes, but I'd say also direct to the soil not just the tube to the reservoir. The pH of your soil in the SIP may still be off, and may be causing lock-out of Mg. Next time around, you can make sure pH is correct from the start (and no decomposing rice hulls), but for now... maybe some repeated additions of CalMag. Good work on identifying to add Ca and Mg together, and on noticing the red stems.
 
Yes, but I'd say also direct to the soil not just the tube to the reservoir. The pH of your soil in the SIP may still be off, and may be causing lock-out of Mg. Next time around, you can make sure pH is correct from the start (and no decomposing rice hulls), but for now... maybe some repeated additions of CalMag. Good work on identifying to add Ca and Mg together, and on noticing the red stems.
Good work on identifying the Magnesium deficiency!
(Assuming that is what it is, but it seems like a good match.)

Good work also on the need to add CalMag on top!
I had already fed her and the reservoir was full, but she has not been drinking much at all the last few days. She looks sick, (and she feels super rubbery, like limp celery...).
I thought I should back-siphon the reservoir, and pour it all over the top, to get the good stuff in there (in the "sponge").
I put a short piece of tubing on the end of my turkey baster, and I got 3 of the 4 liters out before I began to suck bubbles, so I poured all that 3L over the top.
I am sure there was lots more CalMag in that res-water than just what I fed them today! So hopefully all that CalMag got added to the soil.

If this works, I am thinking I should back-siphon all the reservoirs (and pour them over the top, so they get the whole CalMag in the soil).
Only, don't you add CalMag at each feeding? (Or is it only as needed?)

The turkey baster was ok, but if I am going to do 20 pots, then I think I should look for a small hand-crank pump.
I won't want to wait until it gets here (because this is my medicine), but I will look for a hand-pump anyway, because it would be good to have with SIPs.

Thanks, CBD!

Oh, PS, I was surprised when it overflowed!
I figured that it could not overflow, but I guess it was easier for the water to come out the four air vent holes, than it was to trickle down.
 
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