Good morning, Emilya.
First of all, I want to say
for the detailed updates you provide. I love how organized your grow is. It's hard to believe you've just started this perpetual grow when some other growers are struggling with it. The plants look nice and healthy. However, I have some questions.
Some other 420 growers have been wetting their rootballs and applying the Dynomyco directly to the rootball. Could you please weigh in on this?
Most of the 420 growers I follow run their flowering rooms in 12/12. Why are you doing 13/11?
I must have missed the introduction of this method. It makes sense but where does the red light come from? Is that a separate light from the MEGA Light?
And, why don't you want them to stretch?
Hi
@HashGirl, good morning! Again, good questions, thank you.
Applying the
@DYNOMYCO can go several different ways, depending on how you approach the transplanting process. If you do it like I did this time, by setting the floor height in the new container with new soil, and then building up the container around the old rootball, my standard way of doing this is to create a layer of myco under the old rootball, then building the soil up around it to the top. In this method, it would probably be an excellent idea to wet the old rootball and then sprinkle myco on it before building in the soil. I will try that next time I transplant using this method.
The other method is to use a spare container the size of the one you are transplanting out of, to create a hole in the soil built up in the larger container. To maintain the shape of this hole, I always pre-water this new soil, and the edges of the resulting hole are wet. Into this hole, I don't just put myco in the bottom, but I also sprinkle it along the sides of the hole so that there is myco all the way up and down the outside of the old rootball, without having to spray it and apply it as before.
Anyway, whichever way it is done, I feel this is a very good way of getting the myco right where it needs to be, starting the colony as early and quickly as possible.
On the lighting, most of us do go with 12/12 because it is a fairly safe bet that most of the varieties that we will see in our gardens will flower in that light period without complaints. We do know however that the plants can get by on less light per day, and that they can also go with a bit more than 12 hours a day, as long as we stay shy of the 14 hours of daylight that tends to drive our blooming plants back to the veg mode. It is actually to our advantage to run as much light as we can get away with, and many of our members play with their daily light index (DLI) to get the maximum amount of light processed by their plants.
So I already know that 13/11 is going to work. The plants will, without help, usually respond well to this light period without complaint. I want to go further than this. I want to see how far I can go. As soon as stretch is over and we are officially in the bud set stage (day 21 or so), I am going to raise the DLI some more by going 13.5/10.5 Two weeks later, I am going to attempt 14/10, and in the last 2 weeks of the grow, I am going to go 15/9 just to prove that it can be done.
This is where the red lights come in. This 35w Deep and Far red LED light strip is a special order from Cutter Electronics in Australia. The shipping cost more than the light strip and it is powered by a sophisticated WYZE plug with 3 working rules per day running on it, powering the smallest constant current power supply that Meanwell makes. This light strip is affixed to the middle bar of my MEGA, not interfering with any of the other lights. It is set up to turn on 20 minutes before the light goes on to restrict stretch and for 20 minutes after the lights go off, to knock the plants immediately into night mode without the up to 2 hour delay they usually experience. This efficient shutdown is what allows us to go with extra light in the day... the plants are still getting their required rest. The third event for the red lights is around the noon hour, and soon I will be adding UV light during this event also. It is my belief that an hour before and after noon is when the angle is just right for outdoor plants to get their maximum UV from the sun, so I am adding that feature to the grow room. Adding the red lights during this time period is an homage to Dr. Bruce Bugbee, who astounded the world with his profound revelation that red light helps photosynthesis. There is plenty of red light in the MEGA already, but I figured what the heck... Bugbee does it, so I should too.
Lastly, why am I trying to avoid stretch? First and foremost, 6'6" ceilings in my attic grow rooms. If they stretch too much, I have no choice but to resort to supercropping. The second important reason is physics, specifically the inverse square law. The intensity of light coming out of the led array is diminished by the square of the distance. If we have a plant that has stretched to 5 or 6 feet, the middle and bottom of the plant are getting a very much reduced amount of light as compared to the top. Oftentimes, this would make me think about staggered harvests, with the top of the plant getting done well before the bottom did. If I can keep my plants short, this doesn't happen, and I get good light penetration well into the canopy. The plants will stretch as they need to so as to make room for the buds that are being formed on the branches, but I believe that a lot of the extra stretch that people tend to get is unnecessary and can be avoided.