CBD Auto EmmyStack In AziSIPs, GeoFlora, Sweet Candy, Dynomyco, Roots Organic Soil +

[SmokingWings]

It is just that I hope to reuse the soil, and do not want to overload it with calmag.

Life is too short to worry about something like that..

The plant is going to need calcium, might as well add enough to maintain its health.

 

[bluter]

@el gringuito - just do a simple grow first. do regular nutes and a common media. use calmag. sips is a good style if you are set up for it now. otherwise get some fabric grow bags.

don't worry about organic / inorganic stuff. let's just get you growing decently first. the rest will happen as you develop.

if you could source megacrop i'd go with that for your nute needs to begin. it's super simple, and will teach you the crucial basics of what you need to know.

i could even take you through a hempy grow easily if you want. it's cheap and easy if you keep your nutes simple. but i'd recommend sips if you are already set for it.

organics can take a pile of real estate to do proper, and is best in huge grow beds or 25 gallon or larger grow bags. you may not have the infrastructure to pull it off.

don't keep doing what you are at the moment. you're tripping all over yourself. clean it up and simplify. we can help. just focus on the simple.

 

[CBDMed]

the best advice i ever got was : fill up the jars first, fuck around after.

Thanks for sharing, gro.
Actually, even in spite of the last soil being full of Na, everyone helped me to get the jars full.
(It is brown-bud, and not greenbud, but it still hits--and Father willing, we will get some greenbud this time!)

a lot of times you have to do what you need to. not what you want to.

Very true.

if you're growing sips, don't worry about organics, inorganics, any of that shit. short answer is it's not a big difference at this point, and you have greater priorities.

I think I have enough brownbud here to last me a couple of months until harvest. It makes nice Cannabis Dust, but I am really looking forard to greenbud for vaping and pressing.

what you wanna do is copy and paste what is working for others right now.

keep it simple.

once you get a little success, you'll move toward your own grow style as you complete more and more grows. every grower does.

Thanks for the encouragement, gro. I appreciate it.

you don't have to solve everything right now. just get some jars filled.
the rest works itself out with time.

Well, I was trying to mimic Emmie, but she left. And use Azi's SIPs (which like double or triple everything).
The problem was that I thought to save money by using urine instead of GF Veg (because it costs a zillion dollars to fly stuff in) and everyone said ok. But when I started my grow there was a video that says urine alone will not cut it--so I am hoop-jumping it last feeding and this next one (in two days) until we get to Bloom. And then in Bloom I will be back on track. But so far they seem to be doing ok.

So, this run is not dialed in, but so far it looks WAY better than the last grow!
And I found availability on Roots Terp Teas (dry nutes) here at numbers I can afford, and those plants seem to be doing great (the three on the far wall on the right, plus a tiny one on the right who I could not get in the picture).
There is a lot of variation in plant size. Some of the girls are smaller than I expected, but others are bigger than I expected. Not too bad 33-40 days (although it probably would have been better if I had run photos, and it probably would have been better if I had bought enough GF Veg, but it would have been like an extra $200 USD, just to get it here).

Terp tea seems to be a little above US prices, but not too bad.
I am finding availability on raw nutes, but I am not set up for 110 Lb sacks right now. (Once we get to the farm, then we can go that way maybe.)

The auto regulars on the roof seem to be doing fine. I need to fix the greenhouse (to improve air circulation), but we will get that solved somehow.

And I guess I am going back to photos and cloning long term.
Your hempy clone setup looks great.

 

[CBDMed]

Life is too short to worry about something like that..

The plant is going to need calcium, might as well add enough to maintain its health.

True.
But I think I am going to get that refractometer @Gee recommended, so I can apply just the right amount of calmag.
And until it gets here, I think I will follow @bluter 's advice, and start with 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dose, in addition to the 1" EWC layer.
Then over time I can learn the refractometer, to save costs on calmag and throwing soil out.

 

[CBDMed]

@el gringuito - just do a simple grow first. do regular nutes and a common media. use calmag. sips is a good style if you are set up for it now. otherwise get some fabric grow bags.

don't worry about organic / inorganic stuff. let's just get you growing decently first. the rest will happen as you develop.

if you could source megacrop i'd go with that for your nute needs to begin. it's super simple, and will teach you the crucial basics of what you need to know.

i could even take you through a hempy grow easily if you want. it's cheap and easy if you keep your nutes simple. but i'd recommend sips if you are already set for it.

organics can take a pile of real estate to do proper, and is best in huge grow beds or 25 gallon or larger grow bags. you may not have the infrastructure to pull it off.

don't keep doing what you are at the moment. you're tripping all over yourself. clean it up and simplify. we can help. just focus on the simple.

@bluter , you are awesome, man! I appreciate you trying to help me get my meds grown green!
My problem before was I bought some local canna soil that had lots of salt. It totally messed my last three grows.
This time I sprung for some imported USA Roots soil, and THOUGHT I had the 'nutes I needed to imitate Emmie, but I guess I cut the wrong corner!
At least Azi's SIPs made the salted soil work! It was like it tripled everything. So at least I got brown bud that grow. (Not the best taste, but it does the job.)

Anyway, we found some pretty good stuff now, imported from the US by container ships (to keep the cost down).
I think with this stuff, I can probably make it until we get to the farm...and I am learning gobs (by necessity).
So yeah, it is a struggle, but I am learning a lot ("crash course"), so I am happy, and the grows are getting greener all the time.
I appreciate you, gro.

 

[CBDMed]

There is definitely some moisture held by the perlite since the roots are growing above the water line, but I don't know what part oxygen plays in the whole thing.

I add more water every morning to make sure it runs out the side hole. I also have the perlite cup in another cup to keep the water from spilling on the heat mat!

Apple cider is acidic, so I wonder if that makes any difference to the stems.

That is a good question. The author was careful to emphasize not to use too much. I think she said something like 1.2-1.4 ml per liter of water, so I summarized as 1.3, which is like 1/4 teaspoon.
It should be an easy experiment, one control and one weak ACV solution?

Bluter uses weak Veg nutes.

 

[CBDMed]

I am 100% sure that the products you have posted the pics of are considered synthetic nutes, as they completely bypass the microbes in the soil and feed the plant directly.

I can see that with the GLN Sweet Candy.
Does GF qualify as "organic" in your view?
It sounds like Subcool Supersoil does not qualify as "organic" in your view?

Most people consider an LOS grow essentially to be fed by microbes in the soil "eating" the base elements and converting them into something the plant can use, and the plant then taking the elements from the microbes and sending them back into the soil to start the process again. That's a rough explanation but it gets to the difference between an organic and synthetic grow.

Ohhh, you are talking about something completely other else. It sounds like you are talking about the Rev's book?
So rather than organic (or mostly organic) inputs, the Rev is talking about an eco-sustainable system??
Yikes!! Is there like a short 5-10 minute video on that? Because I am running my tail off right now.

The ingredients in synthetic nutes are called salts (not to be confused with salt) and are mostly compounds of sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates. That's what's in MC and almost every other synthetic nutrient on the market.

I get it.
I do not know the Rev's book, but isn't there a difference between a conventional chemical-fed farm which only pulls stuff out of the soil, and an organic and tilth farm, which purposefully puts organic and mineral matter back into the soil?
These are not the greatest photos, but I think you can get the idea of what happens to soil over time if you do not feed it.

I do not want to do to the planet anything that could cause anyone to have health like I have had.

Urine will act as a nitrogen source if you use it with another product, but it won't work well on its own. Also, GeoFlora is an actual organic top-dressed nute (there are others like Dr Earth as well).

Oh, ok, so you consider GF and DE to be organic. Is that because there is no presence of chemical 'nutes at all?
Or what would you consider to be the distinguishing difference?

The other products you have posted pics of here or listed the ingredients for are not considered part of an organic grow if the organic taste is what you're after.

Feeding the soil is what I am after.

Personally I don't believe that anyone can tell the difference between well cured organic and synthetic-nute flowers, but that's a conversation for another day.

I was referring to the ingredient list to make Rev's soil or its equivalent. Expensive up front, free long term. And without the trial and error and many underperforming grows in the meantime.

Yeah, that sounds good! I just need to learn more about it. Is there a short and easy way to learn more about it? (Do I Google, "The Rev Made Easy"?

 

[CBDMed]

Yeah, check out my supersoil recipe.

You just need to cover all the bases, and provide enough... NPK, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and the micro-nutrients... zinc, iron, the other metals, and silicon. My plants are doing very well – I just need to work on bud size and yield now. I'm outside, so it's a different story, because I'm not able to pump the photosynthesis as much as an indoor grow. My solar exposure is limited, due to being surrounded by big trees, and the roofing of the greenhouses isn't ideal because it gets dirty.

Yes, my plastic is dirty, and starts yellow.

My supersoil base is compost soil, coir, and perlite. Then I add the nutrients to that and mix it all up, in a good size wheelbarrow. I also add fresh worm castings.

It will be great to get to a place where we can have an outdoor garden again.

I have rough measurements in mind when I add the nutes (powders), but I'm a bit like a mad scientist with it.

I do add some kelp granules, not a lot... only for the iron and micro-nutrients. Keep in mind that kelp may contain a lot of sodium.

Ohhh... right. (I did not think of that.)

My view is that everything that goes into the soil, in terms of the organic matter (compost/coir) and minerals, becomes habitat and food for the microbes.

Concur.

And all of it works in synergy with the roots.

Hopefully. Because the first thing is the soil.

Most of what I'm using for nutes is mined minerals, guano (bat/seabird), and oyster shell.

I consider those all to be "naturally occurring", and therefore I have no problems calling them "organic inputs".
I am not sure what The Rev teaches about organic. If I can find time, I might need to check into it.
But for me at least, I do not have a problem with, say, dolomite lime, or mined minerals along with the compostable inputs.

I don't consider most of it to be "synthetic" – i.e. derived from human-controlled chemical processes. (Potassium sulfate for organic agriculture is synthesized from natural sources. Gypsum is mined, but also processed.)

Good to know.

I know you are sensitive to the spiritual side of growing, and I am also of that mind and heart. I decided I wouldn't use any animal products, as in bone meal, blood meal, etc. I've been keeping true to that; however, I did try some semi-soluble fish bone powder recently, because it's a great way to add phosphorous during flowering. I don't think I'll use it again though, because it's quite expensive for a small amount.

When you use enough of all these nutes, and proper pot size, the supersoil will carry your plants to late veg, early flower, or mid flower. At that point I will start fertigating with diluted urine, usually 8:1, and solution-grade potassium sulfate, stirred together. (Sometime both, sometimes one or the other.) In late flower, little to no urine. During early/mid flower I will also add some seabird guano (P) to the fertigation, although it's not solution grade.

Yes, I will have to check your supersoil recipe again.
Your feeding schedule makes sense.

 

[InTheShed]

Does GF qualify as "organic" in your view?

It is organic as it does not use chemical salts as inputs.

It sounds like Subcool Supersoil does not qualify as "organic" in your view?

Subcool's recipe is one of many methods of building living organic soil (LOS).

Ohhh, you are talking about something completely other else. It sounds like you are talking about the Rev's book?
So rather than organic (or mostly organic) inputs, the Rev is talking about an eco-sustainable system??
Yikes!! Is there like a short 5-10 minute video on that? Because I am running my tail off right now.

I haven't read Rev's book but as far as I know his growing methods are based on organic inputs.

I do not want to do to the planet anything that could cause anyone to have health like I have had.

Most of the planet is eating food grown with synthetic nutrients. The plant takes up ions of NPK/Ca/Mg/S etc. and those ions look the same to the plant whether from an organic or synthetic source. The plant doesn't see a difference.

Oh, ok, so you consider GF and DE to be organic. Is that because there is no presence of chemical 'nutes at all?
Or what would you consider to be the distinguishing difference?

Yes, both GF and Dr Earth (DE usually means diatomaceous earth around here!) use organic inputs.

Feeding the soil is what I am after.

Then you are looking to avoid salts wherever possible.

Yeah, that sounds good! I just need to learn more about it. Is there a short and easy way to learn more about it? (Do I Google, "The Rev Made Easy"?

As I've mentioned, I'm not the one to tell you how to learn about building LOS, but Google searches for Living Organic Soil might help, along with searching this site for mentions of LOS.

 

[StoneOtter]

I used Geoflora for my outdoor 'in ground' grows the last 3 years. I like it a lot!

 

[CBDMed]

It is organic as it does not use chemical salts as inputs.

Ahhh... now I think I am starting to understand your reasoning.
If any chemical salts are used, whether they are naturally occurring or not (e.g., dolomite lime), for you that disqualifies it as being organic, even though farmers in ancient times (as now) would have added known good amendments to their soil?
And does it make any difference as to how it is processed, in your view?

Subcool's recipe is one of many methods of building living organic soil (LOS).

Even though he recommends Epsom salts, dolomite lime, rock phosphate, and azomite??

Here are the amounts we’ve found will produce the best-tasting buds and strongest medicines:

• 8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
• 25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings
• 5 lbs steamed bone meal
• 5 lbs Bloom bat guano
• 5 lbs blood meal
• 3 lbs rock phosphate
• ¾ cup Epson salts
• ½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
• ½ cup azomite (trace elements)
• 2 tbsp powdered humic acid

I haven't read Rev's book but as far as I know his growing methods are based on organic inputs.

It will be great to get time to read it one day.

Most of the planet is eating food grown with synthetic nutrients. The plant takes up ions of NPK/Ca/Mg/S etc. and those ions look the same to the plant whether from an organic or synthetic source. The plant doesn't see a difference.

Ok. But does the soil see a difference over time due to different land management practices?

Yes, both GF and Dr Earth (DE usually means diatomaceous earth around here!) use organic inputs.

Thanks for the abbreviation lesson! I will update myself!
It is too bad GF does not ship to Colombia!
It is too bad DE does not make a cannabis formula and ship it to Colombia!

Then you are looking to avoid salts wherever possible.

Thanks for your patience while I refine my understanding.
I think that is almost right, because while no sane healthy person wants to degrade the soil that supports life, the reality is that when you feed with organic salts, compostable matter degrades, and the soil loses its tilth. And this impacts aeration, and microbial activity, and worms, and then the birds that eat those worms, and then the things that eat those birds, etc.
So, now I think get the point you are trying to make about Roots Terp Tea having salts. Thanks for hanging in there with me until I got your point.

So, I think maybe the way I might say it is that I am looking to tend and keep the earth as a garden, because a certain Book tells us that we were originally created as gardeners. And that one day He will destroy those who destroy His earth.
One way I would do that is by adding compostable inputs wherever practical, to maintain soil tilth, aeration, etc.
However, while I am still learning about these things, and while I might turn out to be completely mistaken, at the moment, I think I want to think like an ancient tilth farmer used to think.
I do not think an ancient tilth farmer would be against the addition of naturally occurring minerals (such as dolomite lime, rock dust, etc.), or even any naturally-occurring salts that are naturally processed (such as potassium sulfate, or even feeding sea salt to their cows in the cow licks, and that all gets excreted onto the surface of the soil).

About chemical salts, at least according to my current understanding, potassium sulfate occurs naturally in many salt lakes (e.g., Great Salt Lake), and it is found in some volcanic lavas. Often it is found in combination with other salts, such as magnesium, sodium, and chloride.
I think CBD knows a lot more about the difference between synthetic and natural extractions. All I know is that some stuff occurs naturally, and other stuff is man-made.

I guess they discovered Azomite because the horses were eating the earth. I cannot get it here by that brand name, but if I could I would pay for it, because any time I work with that stuff, I have to do it in the morning, or I will not sleep that night.
It is some super-high-frequency stuff! I had an organic cattle rancher in Eastern Oregon turn me on to it. I made the mistake of working with it in the afternoon, and I was up all night.
Bentonite clay would be an example of a mineral that can help health (by absorbing toxins, etc.).

On my ancient farm, if my horses were eating the dirt, I would be curious to check it out. And if I found out that it restored my depleted soils, and made them grow better, you bet I would add it!
And the same for potassium sulfate, or whatever, WITH the caveat that the farmer is mixing organic matter back into the soil.
If dolomite lime or whatever will help him raise more crops, so that he CAN mix more organic matter back into the soil, then to me, that seems to me to be a net positive.

Plants create the necessary ecosystem to break down rocks, and then they essentially take the rock dust, and make it into dirt. (I know it is a combination of things, but you get my point.)
And that seems one reason why we add a lot of rock dust to soils we intend to recycle, or dump into our gardens, is that it continues to feed them over time, and that means we can generate more compostable matter to work back into the soil, to tend and keep the garden.
Greensand is a mineral. Does that make a grow un-organic? Maybe. But does it make it a net positive, in that more organic matter is produced, which can be worked back into the soil? I am not 100% sure yet, and there is a lot I do not know, but my instinct says, "I think maybe so."

So, if you are asking me for my philosophy, without getting esoteric, I think we are called to create a better world (and a better garden) for our children's children's children to live in, unto the seventy-seventh generation.
I also see Planet Earth as an ecosystem in which every naturally occurring input has been provided for man's wise and prayerful use. If it will lead to a better world, and better tilth for our children's children's children, then I am probably for it. (And if not, I am probably against it.)
Again without getting esoteric, to me, life is about much more than me having fun. Life is about me doing my utmost to turn the world back into the garden it was always meant to be. And there is a lot I do not know about that, and probably a lot I will never know. (The organic farm is only part of what we do.)
But from what I can see, when you mix biodegradable stuff into the soil, it builds the soil. And in contrast, if you only (or mostly) put in salts, eventually the soil degrades--and this can have catastrophic consequences for everyone who lives on the planet (which is one reason why we are supposed to turn it into a big outdoor organic garden--not exactly but that is the idea).

That is super frustrating, that GeoFlora would be truly organic (no salts), and does not deliver here!!!
I am still confused that Subcool's Supersoil would qualify as LOS, when it uses minerals and salts. (Me not get. )

I would love to be able to stop the world for long enough to dial in a replacement for GF based ONLY on locally-sourced compostable inputs but the reality is that I am not there yet. The reality is that I am kind of hobbling and limping my way toward the eventual goal of sustainable organic in soil, but I have to get there first.
I JUST found Terp Teas ........ but now I am told they have salts????
This is kind of like the revelation that I SHOULD have bought the GF Veg, because urine alone does not cut it??

Listen, dudes, I love you guys! You guys are making my grows literally like 1,000% better! But my schedule is super tight. They are starting to drink, so I still have to water the girls tonight enough to hold them until Friday's feeding. (And remember the calmag.)

Once we get finally to the property we want to work with Azi's KNF and Jadam stuff. If you think my "science experiment" is a little crazy now, wait until we get to the property and start working in soil!

As I've mentioned, I'm not the one to tell you how to learn about building LOS, but Google searches for Living Organic Soil might help, along with searching this site for mentions of LOS.

 

[CBDMed]

I used Geoflora for my outdoor 'in ground' grows the last 3 years. I like it a lot!

Yes, my Auto Blue Ace 2:1 are on GF, and that is the biggest and nicest they have looked at this stage! Everything is nice and green and clean. And the granules are very easy to work with. And the price was good (but the re-shipping will kill you!)
Too bad GF does not ship to Colombia by container!

 

[InTheShed]

If any chemical salts are used, whether they are naturally occurring or not (e.g., dolomite lime), for you that disqualifies it as being organic, even though farmers in ancient times (as now) would have added known good amendments to their soil?
And does it make any difference as to how it is processed, in your view?

I'd like to start by saying none of this has to do with me or what I think disqualifies a grow from being organic. I'm repeating what many if not most of the LOS growers on the site use as their criteria: bacteria and organic matter in the soil feed the plants rather than being bottle fed with nutrient salts.

Potassium sulfate is not how LOS gardeners get their plants either potassium or sulfur. Potassium sulfate will split into ions of potassium and sulfur in the soil and be immediately available to the plant, no microbes involved. It works in completely inert media like coco or hydro for that reason. LOS growers tend to consider adding immediately available salts to the soil (i.e. synthetic nutrients) not to be part of an LOS grow. That doesn't mean that folks don't do it, as some LOS growers add bloom boosters or cal-mag made from salts. That's a call they make understanding the tradeoffs they feel are happening.

And as I have mentioned, I don't care what you do with your grow. I'm just trying to give you information to help you make decisions about how "organic" your grow will or won't be if you are adding salts to the grow. How many and how often can you add them before you lose the organic flavor you seek or have some denigrating effect on the soil is not something I can offer any help with.

Even though he recommends Epsom salts, dolomite lime, rock phosphate, and azomite??

On that list, only epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) would be consider a salt-based nute. The others would be found in nature.

 

[CBDMed]

I'd like to start by saying none of this has to do with me or what I think disqualifies a grow from being organic. I'm repeating what many if not most of the LOS growers on the site use as their criteria: bacteria and organic matter in the soil feed the plants rather than being bottle fed with nutrient salts.

Cool, gro. I understand that language. And it makes sense.

Potassium sulfate is not how LOS gardeners get their plants either potassium or sulfur. Potassium sulfate will split into ions of potassium and sulfur in the soil and be immediately available to the plant, no microbes involved. It works in completely inert media like coco or hydro for that reason. LOS growers tend to consider adding immediately available salts to the soil (i.e. synthetic nutrients) not to be part of an LOS grow. That doesn't mean that folks don't do it, as some LOS growers add bloom boosters or cal-mag made from salts. That's a call they make understanding the tradeoffs they feel are happening.

Shed, I really appreciate you helping me to understand this. This is great information, and it was never really clear to me before. Now that you are asking such good questions, it is forcing me to refine my understanding, and I appreciate that very much.
Also, I understand that you are not the originator of these definitions, but it does make things fuzzy, because with all of the aforementioned said, I still do not understand how they can call Subcool's an LOS grow, but not Terp Tea. Both of them have salts. Why is Subbie LOS but Dude's Tea no?
Me not get.

And as I have mentioned, I don't care what you do with your grow. I'm just trying to give you information to help you make decisions about how "organic" your grow will or wont be if you are adding salts to the grow.

Yes, and I appreciate that a lot. I am learning a lot! I am just still confused why Subcool is cool, but Dude is a fool, when they both have the same kinds of salts.
I can agree that GF and Dr. Earth sound better---I just wish they would open just ONE outlet in Bogota!
My only other alternative is to buy a dozen 110 Lb sacks, and learn how to mix my own---but as much as I love this stuff, I just simply do not have time right now!
Hahahaha, RIGHT now I need to go water plants, and then get to bed! Lol!!

How many and how often can you add them before you lose the organic flavor you seek or have some denigrating effect on the soil is not something I can offer any help with.

Yes, I understand the question.
I guess I "went organic with Subcool", and do not understand why his salts are ok, and Dude's salts are not.
I am confuzzed and not really able to answer more until I can understand the answer to this mystery.

On that list, only epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) would be consider a salt-based nute. The others would be found in nature.

Ahh, ok!
So maybe one practical thing I could do to remove salts without having to stop the world to learn how to make my own ferts this early in my cannabis career is to look for another updated supersoil recipe that does not use salts. (I have seen dozens of them, I think the main thing would be to evaluate which one would work best without losing too much time.)
If I can find one I like and I can source all of the inputs here locally in Colombia, then I could just switch formulas for my next mix. (That would be a copy-paste. )
Someone else has probably done all of that research already, and wants to share---and I just need to find a good one I can find nutes for....)

Is there perhaps a 420 expert on updated supersoils who could help me know a few good supersoil recipes that replace Epsom salts with non-salt inputs?
(And, come to think of it, urine is also a salt input???)
Me gots to go research calmag, water plants, then take ancient farmer to shower and then bed
My grows are getting better all the time.

 

[InTheShed]

I guess I "went organic with Subcool", and do not understand why his salts are ok, and Dude's salts are not.

Maybe think of it as a percentage. Subcool is using epsom salts as a much smaller percentage than the bags you posted, which are closer to 100% synthetic nutes. They may add some humic acid or kelp and such in there, but the N, P, and K are not organically sourced.

There are tons of LOS recipes out there, and CBDhemp posted a link to his as well. I'm not making any value judgements about any of them; which ones are okay or not okay. I'm giving you information to make informed decisions.

 

[CBDMed]

Maybe think of it as a percentage.

Yes, ok. I would like to do the best I can, but maybe not practical at this moment...

Subcool is using epsom salts as a much smaller percentage than the bags you posted, which are closer to 100% synthetic nutes.

Wait. What????
Ummm.... copying-and-pasting
You mean the stuff in bold, right?
Did I miss any?

Grow seems like mostly organic, but some salt, yes. I get your point.
Ugh. Thanks for persisting until I saw that.

ROOTS ORGANICS TERP TEA GROW
NPK / 7 - 1 - 1
DERIVED FROM
Bat Guano, Fish Bone Meal, Fish Meal, Langbeinite, Kieserite, Non Gmo Soybean Meal, Feather Meal, Chicken Manure, Kelp Meal, Dolomite. Also contains nonplant Food ingredients Humic Acid, Beneficial Bacteria and Beneficial Fungi.

It looks like Bloom is even more so . And we already bought four bags on sale....
Oh well...I guess we will not buy any more???
Well, at least I will be able to get my medicine for now, and then when we get to the farm we can go more LOS there?
Now I understand your earlier comments a lot better.

ROOTS ORGANICS TERP TEA BLOOM
NPK / 3 - 7 - 4
DERIVED FROM
Bat Guano, Fishbone Meal, Crab Meal, Kelp Meal, Non Gmo Soybean Meal, Seabird Guano, Feather Meal, Langbeinite, Kieserite, Phosphate Rock, Sulfate of Potash, Dolomite. Also contains nonplant food ingredients Beneficial Bacteria and Beneficial Fungi.

I assumed Bloom Booster would be even less than bloom, but I am not sure. In any case, yes, it does seem like salts, doesn't it?

ROOTS ORGANICS TERP TEA BLOOM BOOSTER
NPK / 0.5 - 6 - 18
DERIVED FROM
Sulfate of Potash, Phosphate Rock, Crab Meal, Fishbone Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Kelp Extract (Ascophyllum nodosum ), and Langbeinite.

Well, what could I use instead of that, for K?
Will banana peel tea be sufficient for K for this mix?
Or how can I get sufficient K for this mix without salts?

They may add some humic acid or kelp and such in there, but the N, P, and K are not organically sourced.

Right.

There are tons of LOS recipes out there, and CBDhemp posted a link to his as well. I'm not making any value judgements about any of them; which ones are okay or not okay. I'm giving you information to make informed decisions.

Well, thank you again. Bummer that GF does not send me a cargo ship! Lol. Right? Like I am top on their radar...
Lol!
Ohhh, what a bummer we bought four sacks of that already!
I guess that will buy me time to get through this rental time, and then then from there we can use composts and plant matter we can grow, and such.

Me gots to go water girls now. Eyelids getting heavy. Couch-lock shifting into warp drive... It is too late to go sativa....

I need to research my own thread!

 

[InTheShed]

I already pointed them out as you were posting and I won't have time to find them again tonight, but definitely the pic of the bag you posted a few days ago. If they mention P2 or P2O5 or K2 or K2O they would be salts.

 

[CBDMed]

I put the 1 inch layer of earthworm castings up top of my SIP build, do I still use the @StoneOtter SIP Fix, and add the 4 mL of Calmag per gallon of water?

(And do I put that water over EWC and the soil? Or down into the res?)

run a little in the res. use the liquid version. start at 1/4 to 1/2 dose and watch how the plant responds.

Hmmm....
Dude's website says:

APPLICATION RATE
Seedlings and Small Plants
Use 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per gallon.

Mature Vegetative Plants
Use 1 – 3 teaspoons (5 – 15 ml) per gallon.

Mature Flowering Plants
Use 2 – 3 teaspoons (10 – 15 ml) per gallon.

I would say they are just entering into flowering, so maybe, 2 tsp. normally?
So then, since this soil is going to get tightened/trashed no matter what, and I have a refractometer on the way, maybe go with 2 teaspoons, meaning 10ml per gallon? (And maybe go a little light because they are just now entering into flower, but then maybe go a little heavy, because they have not had any up until now... so... 2 teaspoons?)

And down the feed tube?

And then watch what happens?? Lol.

 

[CBDMed]

I already pointed them out as you were posting and I won't have time to find them again tonight, but definitely the pic of the bag you posted a few days ago. If they mention P2 or P2O5 or K2 or K2O they would be salts.

Yeah, but not pure salts, gro. It smells and handles like fine fish flour
I do not doubt that there are salts in there (but on the whole it handles and smells like fish flour, so I think we might possibly be back to that question of percentages.
Bummer I already bought 4 sacks!
But it should carry me through until I get to the farm. (I am sure the farm stuff is not going to be nearly as intense, but it will be good to have "free" fertilizer.)

Hmmm....
So, I guess the net upshot is that I have been treating myself real good, to some stuff I will not have after the transition?
So, enjoy it while I have it? (And just expect that this soil is going to get trashed?)
Big sigh... I cannot throw it out!
I guess the best thing to do is to enjoy it, and then maybe I can learn about LOS, and this buys me time until I can get to the farm, and build a compost bin?

 

[CBDMed]

Hmmm....
Dude's website says:

CALMAG APPLICATION RATE
Seedlings and Small Plants
Use 1 teaspoon (5 ml) per gallon.

Mature Vegetative Plants
Use 1 – 3 teaspoons (5 – 15 ml) per gallon.

Mature Flowering Plants
Use 2 – 3 teaspoons (10 – 15 ml) per gallon.

I would say they are just entering into flowering, so maybe, 2 tsp. normally?
So then, since this soil is going to get tightened/trashed no matter what, and I have a refractometer on the way, maybe go with 2 teaspoons, meaning 10ml per gallon? (And maybe go a little light because they are just now entering into flower, but then maybe go a little heavy, because they have not had any up until now... so... 2 teaspoons?)

And down the feed tube?

And then watch what happens?? Lol.

Ok, @bluter says to monitor.
The big ones were dry, not yet wilting.
I wetted the tops with flood irrigation, a mild dose of PK-13/14 (which probably tightens soil, but it sounds like this soil is going to get trashed any way we go. Because I am not going to throw the Terp Tea out ).

Down the tube I put 2 tsp per gallon of calmag, then the same mild dose of PK-13/14. I filled them so that they were at least 1/3 full, so they will not run dry before I am able to feed them again on Friday.
Here is just after lightly fertigating the top, and calmag down the tubes.

Hopefully I will remember to take another picture before the feeding (or just after), so we can compare what the calmag did before the feeding kicks in.
And then take another picture after the feeding.
Probably I will just take pictures of this side, because these girls are taller, so we should be able to monitor their growth better.
I need to go draw 10 G of water. I want to start the tea tomorrow morning, to make sure I have time to apply it on Friday.

And for 8 Lb of fertilizer, do I use (EDIT) 8 G of water? Or 10G?
And for 8 Lb of fertilizer, do I use 2 tablespoons of molasses, or 4? (Some say this, some say that.)