I'm pretty sure I put them outside at different times for flowering, but I will have to check my dates here.
Nice garden too btw
ok it is beautiful!!! Leafhoppers..
but ok :
How to Control Leafhoppers on Outdoor Plants By Amber Kelsey eHow Contributor
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Small, fast-moving leafhoppers are hard to spot because they can quickly jump away in any direction whenever disturbed. The damage the sap-suckers leave behind lets you know they're definitely hanging around your yard, however. The pests feed on a wide range of outdoor plants, and the feeding activity causes affected foliage to develop small white or yellow dots, which sometimes merge into large white blotches as the leaves mature. Although leafhoppers are difficult to control, you can often reduce pest populations by using a combination of natural predators, mechanical control methods and insecticidal soap.
Attract Leafhopper Predators
- The leafhopper's natural enemies include ladybugs, spiders, parasitic wasps, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. Entice these beneficial insects to your home landscape with flowering and nectar-producing plants. Good lure plants include annual herbs, such as dill (Anethum graveolens) and coriander (Coriandrum sativum), as well as annuals that bear showy flowers. Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) and marigolds (Calendula officinalis) are both good options for attracting beneficial insects while adding color to your yard. Beneficial insects can often handle small leafhopper problems for you, but avoid spraying your outdoor plants with broad-spectrum insecticides or you risk wiping out the good bugs along with the pests.
Apply Insecticidal Soap
- Yellow sticky traps attract leafhoppers, so setting them out near infested outdoor plants helps control pest populations. Buy commercial yellow sticky traps or make your own by cutting cardboard or heavy poster board into 5-by-7-inch pieces and paint them yellow. Coat traps with a thin layer of petroleum jelly or cooking oil. Attach the traps to plant stakes or sticks and drive them into the soil surrounding affected garden plants or small shrubs. Make holes near the top of traps and hang them from small branches to snare leafhoppers feeding on trees and large shrubs. Check the traps once a week, giving them a new coat of sticky substance or replacing them as needed.
- Although adult leafhoppers are usually too fast to squirt with chemicals, insecticidal soap sprays often eliminate the young nymphs. Start treating your outdoor plants when you first notice feeding damage, and repeat applications every four to seven days until you obtain control. Read and follow the mixing and application instructions on the product's label. Most products call for a 1 to 2 percent solution, or 2-1/2 to 5 tablespoons of concentrate for every gallon of water. Use a handheld garden sprayer to completely coat the foliage. Leafhopper nymphs like to hang out beneath the leaves, so make sure you cover the undersides as well as the tops.
Help wanted.
Okay everybody, I have a grower friend here (smokeater) that needs to make his own seeds. There is NO budget to buy anything...I mean NO budget. So colloidal silver methods and that kind of thing are out.
He has plants in flower. What I am thinking is to have him try to stress one of the flower girls into hermie-ing by upsetting the light cycle. Maybe take her out of the tent a few times exposing her to 24 hours of light and confusing her.
Other than that, I'm not real sure how else to go about this. I've done the colloidal silver method, but now I use Pollen when I want seeds.
Do any of you have a suggestion on a member who does this kind of thing regularly that can help us get a seed plant going from a female? There are no males, no pollen to work with. I just don't have any more indica seeds to spare, so we're looking for alternatives for him.
Or, a member who has a different method that works and no dollars out. I know that if you let the girl go way past harvest time it works sometimes, but we're looking for a faster assured method.
Thanks so much!
Mr Krip. I've already put forth the suggestion on letting one go too long in flower to get some nanners going, so we're on the same page there. The cloning should be in progress soon, we need to force sex on a couple in veg first to see which ones are female to start that over again too. I've also told him to go ahead and take some clones off the flowering girls, they will take longer to root and will go through reveg period, but eventually will be fine.
QUESTION: Will that give them hermie traits in the seeds?
Help wanted.
Okay everybody, I have a grower friend here (smokeater) that needs to make his own seeds. There is NO budget to buy anything...I mean NO budget. So colloidal silver methods and that kind of thing are out.
He has plants in flower. What I am thinking is to have him try to stress one of the flower girls into hermie-ing by upsetting the light cycle. Maybe take her out of the tent a few times exposing her to 24 hours of light and confusing her.
Other than that, I'm not real sure how else to go about this. I've done the colloidal silver method, but now I use Pollen when I want seeds.
Do any of you have a suggestion on a member who does this kind of thing regularly that can help us get a seed plant going from a female? There are no males, no pollen to work with. I just don't have any more indica seeds to spare, so we're looking for alternatives for him.
Or, a member who has a different method that works and no dollars out. I know that if you let the girl go way past harvest time it works sometimes, but we're looking for a faster assured method.
Thanks so much!
QUESTION: Will that give them hermie traits in the seeds?
High y'all... Just thought I would show off my Labor day
.... 
Here's the plant....
