Building A Better Soil: Demonstrations & Discussions Of Organic Soil Recipes

Hello YankeeToker,

The Pro-Mix BX is fine for growing cannabis. I used it last year as a base, just keep in mind it has ZERO nutrients in it and you need to amend it.

Thanks Robert! A base is exactly what I wanted to use it for. I just wanted to ask because I was told that it didn't have the wetting agent in it that the HP has and that it was hard to control pH (but limestone/lime would help with that correct?) Lime over time and limestone more readily available?


YT
 
I've read this thread from start to finish over the last month or so.Ive bitten off so much valuable info about organic gardening from here as I have from my laize-affair research previously. I'm a soiless guy, don't crucify me just yet:Namaste: I'm intrigued by the no till los method. I'm just not brave enough to take the plunge. The thing that somewhat dissuades me is the larger containers needed. I flower in 3 gal containers max. Don't have a plot of land to cook the soil on. I could most likely source all the materials needed locally as I live in a city where agri framing is practiced as well as general. Also, we have a few rock quarries around. Question, to you all, Sweetsue,Roach,bobrown,rad,RobCelt etc.. If I wanted to get my feet wet with organic growing on a small scale, say, 2-3 plants in 2.5 -3 gal containers. How would you approach it? I'd want to try it out a run before committing my entire flower tent to the medium switch. I know it'll be for the betterment of the end product, and my sanity. I want to learn to grow organically and all of it's intricacies and not just copy and repeat. I know I'd be buying more product than needed for such a small plant run, can the un-used soil be stored? If so, for how long and what if anything will be needed to keep the soil's biology active? I'm sure I'll have more ?'s. Bare with me

StayFrosty
CanEyeBus
 
Thanks Robert! A base is exactly what I wanted to use it for. I just wanted to ask because I was told that it didn't have the wetting agent in it that the HP has and that it was hard to control pH (but limestone/lime would help with that correct?) Lime over time and limestone more readily available?
YT

With no wetting agent, it can be difficult to mix and make a decent soil mix due to the peat moss ability to shed water away instead of absorb it when it's DRY (out of the bale). Why you see the wetting agent in there.

FYI - Promix's primary customer are landscapers, they care not about organic amendments - they don't want the peat to blow away the next day after they put it down. This is one reason it's soo pricey as well.

You can go to a box store and get Canadian Spagnum Peat Moss 2.8cu bale >$10 - and sometimes if yer lucky it will be labeled Premier same company different container... kinda fun eh? $35 or >$10 same thing minus the wetting agent and mycos.

You can add in your own wetting agent - try some Aloe Vera = organic wetting agent and it also has IBA, IAA and Salicylic acid which are organic rooting agents that you can find in synthetic form in all your rooting compounds you use for cloning /rooting, but its organic (makes a HUGE difference).

So get the cheaper CANADIAN Spagnum Peat Moss (read the label) and mix with Aloe Vera - either organic out of a bottle or make your own from a Aloe leaf. I always add in VAM (mycorrhizal fungi) when transplanting/planting into my soil mix anyway so its far far less expensive to purchase that separately than to pay Premier Corp (good company - not banging them at all other than price) to do it for you. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the spores (VAM) added at transplant/planting are going to be a fair amount fresher than what was added in at the same time as the non-organic wetting agent in the Promix.

You get the idea... Promix for professionals... we gardeners can do a little better for a lot less $$.

I've bought Promix... winced at the counter .... felt like a dork for paying so much; it's in some of my no-til pots.

RE: limestone to buffer the PH (CSPM is acidic) - 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot - FTW.

A little Gypsum at same ratio is going to help as well big time for the long haul.

I come from no-til indoor container perspective; so what I am talking about here is what I use in a container that I am going to grow cannabis in for many many cycles. Plants and quality will get better each cycle with amendments added at switch to flower and at transplant.
 
Thank you BB. I love the way you explain things. Such an authentic voice. I learn every time I listen to you. :circle-of-love:
 
Boy, I bought a bale of Promix...once. Quickly decided that was not economical. I imagine Bob made the same face at the register that I did. I was at a local small nursery recently (Mennonite owned/operated) and recognized it in the plant cell packs. Then I saw the open bale of BX and stacks of more bales and decided to talk to them. I explained what was in it (CSPM, vermiculite, perlite, limestone, wetting agent, myco) and told them they could save around half the money spent by making it. I'm not sure I got through. Mixing isn't for some I guess.
 
I've read this thread from start to finish over the last month or so.Ive bitten off so much valuable info about organic gardening from here as I have from my laize-affair research previously. I'm a soiless guy, don't crucify me just yet:Namaste: I'm intrigued by the no till los method. I'm just not brave enough to take the plunge. The thing that somewhat dissuades me is the larger containers needed. I flower in 3 gal containers max. Don't have a plot of land to cook the soil on. I could most likely source all the materials needed locally as I live in a city where agri framing is practiced as well as general. Also, we have a few rock quarries around. Question, to you all, Sweetsue,Roach,bobrown,rad,RobCelt etc.. If I wanted to get my feet wet with organic growing on a small scale, say, 2-3 plants in 2.5 -3 gal containers. How would you approach it? I'd want to try it out a run before committing my entire flower tent to the medium switch. I know it'll be for the betterment of the end product, and my sanity. I want to learn to grow organically and all of it's intricacies and not just copy and repeat. I know I'd be buying more product than needed for such a small plant run, can the un-used soil be stored? If so, for how long and what if anything will be needed to keep the soil's biology active? I'm sure I'll have more ?'s. Bare with me

StayFrosty
CanEyeBus

Good morning CanEyeBus :)

If you want to try your hand at organics, you can use one of the many "recipes" found in this thread :) there is no "single" perfect mix, they will all work to grow in. Even with the scientific approaches some of us take, when designing our soil, no 2 plants (or strains) are the same and we still have to watch our girls and let them tell us if they are lacking in some nutrient :)

If you want to take a simpler approach your first run, use Pro-Mix BX or HP as your base, amend it with Epsom salts, blood meal, bone meal and alfalfa meal (quantities will depend on how much you want to mix). The Pro-Mix has Mycos in it making this a simple recipe that will grow your plants.

If you want to get more advanced, start with peat, aloe, lime and Epsom salts for your base. Then custom tailor your amendments according to what is available in your area. There are many of us here who can help you with this :)

As for storing it, I keep a few totes inside during the winter full of amended soil. It will keep, the nutrients don't disappear until a plant uses them. You can also continually recycle your soil as well. Just re-amend it before the next use, either no-till or using the old soil as your new base. If you keep a lid on the tote and keep it in a cool place the Mycos will survive so long as the soil doesn't dry out.

If you have more questions, or want help designing your first soil, give a shout, we will share what we know and have learned with you :Namaste:
 
20160323_111841-1.jpg


So here is what I came up with...after some exhaustive research,I think the numbers are right....
 
I've been following along with great interest and would love to mix up a good soil, but here in the UK crab and lobster compost are unheard of. Do any of soil experts know if there are alternatives that would be almost as good?

Thanks for all the great information so far. I'm just a little stuck trying to source or replace the crustacean component.
 
I've been following along with great interest and would love to mix up a good soil, but here in the UK crab and lobster compost are unheard of. Do any of soil experts know if there are alternatives that would be almost as good?

Thanks for all the great information so far. I'm just a little stuck trying to source or replace the crustacean component.

Good afternoon Max, its been a while.

The main purpose of crustacean meal is the "chitinase" rather than as a source of nutrients. Chitinase, found in the shells of crabs, lobster, insects, fungi and many other things, acts as a fungicide and insecticide. The bacteria that breaks the shells down will also attack harmful fungi and the exoskeletons on insects like gnat pupae.

If you are unable to locate crustacean meal, there are other easier to find sources:

Bananas, chestnuts, kiwis, avocados, papaya, and tomatoes, for example, all contain significant levels of chitinase.

from wikipedia.

If memory serves, you are in the UK and I believe Chestnut trees are common there. You could grind some up and add to your soil for the chitinase.

There are probably many other sources but those are a few I found doing a quick search for "chintin" or "chitinase"

Hope this helps you mate :thumb:
 
Good afternoon Max, its been a while.

The main purpose of crustacean meal is the "chitinase" rather than as a source of nutrients. Chitinase, found in the shells of crabs, lobster, insects, fungi and many other things, acts as a fungicide and insecticide. The bacteria that breaks the shells down will also attack harmful fungi and the exoskeletons on insects like gnat pupae.

If you are unable to locate crustacean meal, there are other easier to find sources:



from wikipedia.

If memory serves, you are in the UK and I believe Chestnut trees are common there. You could grind some up and add to your soil for the chitinase.

There are probably many other sources but those are a few I found doing a quick search for "chintin" or "chitinase"

Hope this helps you mate :thumb:

Hi RC, +reps for the advice, thank you. I'm approaching the end of my grow (just found a seed in a small back building cut off and had the girls out looking for nanners). I'll go check out chitinase alternatives now. I'm very keen on trying a better soil.

Regards
 
Caneybus, flowering in 3g containers, I would use teas weekly. The soil can be stored, reused, reammended; I like storing mine with a layer of compost mixed in the top few inches with some ground up grain. I use totes stacked up or 5g buckets for amendments.
 
I think you should start a side biz shipping crustacean and kelp meal to those who can't otherwise easily get it, Robert. You ARE at the port of origin practically.

:hmmm:

I would buy both. Would customs raise an eyebrow if you smuggled a few hundred pounds of each across the border?

Oh I can hear it now....

"Sir, would you like to explain to me why the dog is trying to eat the trunk of your car?"

:laughtwo:

Incidentally, mushrooms have a meaty texture because they contain chitin in their cell walls too. Something to think about.

:Namaste:
 
:rofl:
 
Good morning CanEyeBus :)

If you want to try your hand at organics, you can use one of the many "recipes" found in this thread :) there is no "single" perfect mix, they will all work to grow in. Even with the scientific approaches some of us take, when designing our soil, no 2 plants (or strains) are the same and we still have to watch our girls and let them tell us if they are lacking in some nutrient :)

If you want to take a simpler approach your first run, use Pro-Mix BX or HP as your base, amend it with Epsom salts, blood meal, bone meal and alfalfa meal (quantities will depend on how much you want to mix). The Pro-Mix has Mycos in it making this a simple recipe that will grow your plants.

If you want to get more advanced, start with peat, aloe, lime and Epsom salts for your base. Then custom tailor your amendments according to what is available in your area. There are many of us here who can help you with this :)

As for storing it, I keep a few totes inside during the winter full of amended soil. It will keep, the nutrients don't disappear until a plant uses them. You can also continually recycle your soil as well. Just re-amend it before the next use, either no-till or using the old soil as your new base. If you keep a lid on the tote and keep it in a cool place the Mycos will survive so long as the soil doesn't dry out.

If you have more questions, or want help designing your first soil, give a shout, we will share what we know and have learned with you :Namaste:


RobertC,+reps thank you for the response and the welcome to the side of the sane!:Namaste: I have seen the recipes herein. I'm quite sure i can source all of the major components as well as the "extras" if you will, locally. I could also get ahold of some earthworms. I will be hitting you guys/gals up for my first no-til los soil newbie starter kit hopefully sooner rather than later.

StayFrosty
CanEyeBus
 
Caneybus, flowering in 3g containers, I would use teas weekly. The soil can be stored, reused, reammended; I like storing mine with a layer of compost mixed in the top few inches with some ground up grain. I use totes stacked up or 5g buckets for amendments.

36Grow, thank you. Yes, I figured teas would be part of my watering regiment also. I've used the Heisenberg tea recipe in my hempy's previously. It definitely seemed to improve my root structure and health as well as overall plant health compared to the ones that didn't receive it. Now that I've caught up reading the thread so to speak, I'm going to start over from page 1.

StayFrosty
CanEyeBus
 
I think you should start a side biz shipping crustacean and kelp meal to those who can't otherwise easily get it, Robert. You ARE at the port of origin practically.

:hmmm:

I would buy both. Would customs raise an eyebrow if you smuggled a few hundred pounds of each across the border?

Oh I can hear it now....

"Sir, would you like to explain to me why the dog is trying to eat the trunk of your car?"

:laughtwo:

Incidentally, mushrooms have a meaty texture because they contain chitin in their cell walls too. Something to think about.

:Namaste:

Good morning mate :)

Its funny you should say that, Acadian Seaplants' office is next door to where my office was in my last position which is about a 45 minute drive from here. And there is a manufacturer of Crab Meal about 3 hours from here and an hour from my other property.

So "yes" I "could" buy in bulk and ship both Kelp and Crab meal to friends and others wanting to source them ;) But I would have to set up a company, be a sponsor here ( for legal reasons) and I suspect shipping costs for quantities most would want would be prohibitive.

For myself, I will use kelp meal this year, I can buy it retail near where their office is. As for crab meal, I have yet to find a retail source for it, but a walk along most any beach in the province would supply me lots of shells to use, or I could visit a lobster pound and most likely source some there as well :)
 
I wonder if our UK friends could Ebay.uk or Amazon.uk some crab or shrimp meal. Are Down to Earth and Dr. Earth brands not available? Neptunes Harvest? I recently read something about shellfish waste in the UK. Something must be available.

Though if it's too hard to source, it certainly is not a requirement.
 
Good afternoon Max, its been a while.

The main purpose of crustacean meal is the "chitinase" rather than as a source of nutrients. Chitinase, found in the shells of crabs, lobster, insects, fungi and many other things, acts as a fungicide and insecticide. The bacteria that breaks the shells down will also attack harmful fungi and the exoskeletons on insects like gnat pupae.

If you are unable to locate crustacean meal, there are other easier to find sources:



from wikipedia.

If memory serves, you are in the UK and I believe Chestnut trees are common there. You could grind some up and add to your soil for the chitinase.

There are probably many other sources but those are a few I found doing a quick search for "chintin" or "chitinase"

Hope this helps you mate :thumb:


It used to be that everytime I mixed up a batch of soil or seedling soil I would be gifted a cloud of fungus gnat that I had to spray to get rid of. For several months, I have been gifted only a few fungus gnats and they die off within a few days.

I have been feeding my worms a diet heavy in banana peels and amending my large pots with worm castings. Also spraying the pots in the flowering room with 1% Neem Oil and reusing them. Do you think it is the chitinase eating fungus controlling fungus gnat larvae, or the residual Neem Oil in the soil controlling the fungus gnat larvae. (To my recollection, the Lobster compost in the soil wasn't controlling gnats by itself.)

Whatever the cause, I'm happy my soil is now a fungus gnat death trap :)

Thanks for the perspective !
 
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