Brah's 5 Gallon Hempy, Melon Fizz, Mars Hydro TSW 2000, Grow Journal

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Ladies and Gentlemen!
Welcome to our first episode of NAME THAT ISSUE! We could use your help deciding the best course of action to get Anita back to 100, she's started looking pretty sad over the last few days.

Details:
Fertigating 2x daily. I'm mixing up 1 gallon of nute solution at a time, which is lasting about 5 days, haven't been re-checking the PH each day.

Nutes in the Gallon:
Advanced Nutrients Grow: About 3.69 ML (Recommended 2ML per litre, so 7.58 ML per gallon)
Earth Juice Microblast: 1/2 tsp per gallon (Full recommended dose)
General Hydroponics CALiMAGic: 1/2 tsp per gallon. (Recommended 1 tsp per gallon)
Hydroguard: 2.5 ml per gallon. (Full recommended dose)

Starting PH is around 6.0. Water source is remineralized RO water, filtered through a large charcoal filter to get the ppms as low as possible. I don't have any digital ph, ec, or ppm meters. I'd like to get a nice one eventually but it's not in the budget atm.

It looks to us like a Manganese deficiency which would be fixed by lowering PH, or a Calcium issue, which is normally too low ph at the roots...

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[FelipeBlu]

You could try bringing your CaliMagic up to 1 tsp/gal.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Thanks! Would you recommend flushing the res with a new solution today?

You could try bringing your CaliMagic up to 1 tsp/gal.

 

[FelipeBlu]

It’s hempy

Do it.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

It’s hempy

Do it.

 

[stinker]

Following. Now to read up on Hempy?

 

[Azimuth]

Following. Now to read up on Hempy?

Here's a good place to start:

Hempy Headquarters

 

[politoed]

is the starting ph of 6 before you add any nutrients? it could definitely be ph related. my waters starting ph is 8+, and after normal nutes it goes all the way down into the low 5s. my guess is the range is off and is locking out all of the nutrients.

the spots could be from you leaving droplets on the leaves and it getting cooked under the lights, but if i had to guess here, my money is on ph.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

excited to see how this turns out. I have 4 melon fizz about to be flipped on sunday! so far they smell amazing and are growing thick and lush.

How are your girls doing? I'm learning some lessons about hempy the hard way over here.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

is the starting ph of 6 before you add any nutrients? it could definitely be ph related. my waters starting ph is 8+, and after normal nutes it goes all the way down into the low 5s. my guess is the range is off and is locking out all of the nutrients.

the spots could be from you leaving droplets on the leaves and it getting cooked under the lights, but if i had to guess here, my money is on ph.

Yes that's my inclination as well, issue came on hard and fast and is getting exponentially worse. PH is 'yellow' (between 5.8 and 6.8) after all nutrients, I only have one of those add the drops and check the color kits at the moment. I talked to a buddy last night who owes me one and he's sending me one of these so I can be more on top of it:

 

[Azimuth]

I'm the same way. I have no idea what the pH is I'm watering with. Thankfully my replacement meter came today. Should help me dial it in if I can keep from frying this one too.

 

[FelipeBlu]

You really can’t grow at your best in hempy without a good pH meter. The one above is excellent - mine still works great after 3 years.

In hempy, aim for 5.8 after mixing all nutrients. It’s okay to go as low as 5.6 once in a while, but since anything in the reservoir will drift up, never go over 6. Really try to hit 5.7-5.9 in flower. The plants will need daily fertigating, so it’s important to be consistent and accurate.

 

[Azimuth]

Thanks, Felipe. That's really good info.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Thanks Felipe! I've got the test pen and some AN micro, calmag, and b52 coming from my friend, so hopefully I can get everything running smoothly using just 1 product line and consistent PH, PPM, EC.

 

[FelipeBlu]

One other point - If you know that your water quality/pH is consistent, you only really need to measure/verify your final pH whenever you increase the dose - it shouldn’t change in between. So it isn’t as labor-intensive as one might think. It isn’t like maintaining a DWC or Flood/Drain reservoir.

 

[Azimuth]

You really can’t grow at your best in hempy without a good pH meter. The one above is excellent - mine still works great after 3 years.

In hempy, aim for 5.8 after mixing all nutrients. It’s okay to go as low as 5.6 once in a while, but since anything in the reservoir will drift up, never go over 6. Really try to hit 5.7-5.9 in flower. The plants will need daily fertigating, so it’s important to be consistent and accurate.

You should cross post this into the hemp thread. Really good info I don't recall seeing in there and I read the whole thing.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Friends:
Gotta say I'm feeling pretty embarrassed with how this journal is going so far. It's been a slow start, and now I've just about fried Anita. But we learn best by making mistakes, so let's keep pushing forwards.

Over the last decade growing outdoors in the soil in remote locations, I've gotten hippy dippy and have been able to stay away from too much fussy science. Living as one with the rhythms of the sun and the seasons. Indoors with hempy that sh(# isn't cutting it. So we have fresh sciency graphics, and we've ordered a fancy pants ph,ec,ppm meter. Hopefully we can keep Anita alive long enough for it to ship all the way to our little bamboo forest.

What started as 1 small black spot (should have known it was a pirate curse) has quickly spread, and we are still unclear as to the source of the issue. It's either just a PH issue, or we're not mixing up the feed right. We've removed the micro from feedings and increased the amount of Grow and Calmag, cut back to 1 fertigation a day, and are checking PH with every watering. Anita's new growth is looking good so far, so fingers crossed. The good news is that she is speeding up now that she has a fully established root system in the container.

Honey has visible roots in the res and is slow but on track and more or less looking healthy. She's a little light in color so we added some grow to her feeding schedule.

Stay safe out there, thanks for all your help!

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Following. Now to read up on Hempy?

Aloha stinker! Welcome to the hempy hukilau.

 

[FelipeBlu]

Okay, let’s get to the bottom of this. Are you using the AN pH perfect Grow (with the sasquatch? holding a green tomato?) that is 3-0-4? If so, 4ml/gal of that plus 2ml Calimagic provides the plant with:

19ppm N
0 P
41 K
32 Ca
10 Mg
1 Fe
and no micros

That isn’t enough N for any plant. She should be getting about 100ppm N at her age. And I’m not a proponent of hitting a plant with lots of P, but she should be getting some. Generally, everything is too low. The problem with just using Grow is that you don’t get any P or micros. You get some N, Ca, Mg, and Fe with the Calimagic, but not enough - and no other micros. Another issue is that to provide 100ppm N using just Grow and Calimagic takes 27ml/gal of Grow and 5ml/gal Calimagic, which hits the plant with 275ppm K!! That will likely cause problems with Ca and Mg uptake. If you’re going to use AN, you should probably use all three (Grow, Micro, Bloom).
Also, I’ve never needed/used hydroguard in hempy.

 

[Braddah Waiheesohai]

Thanks man, I'm trying to make this work with a bunch of kit I recently inherited from a friend who moved and I don't really have any budget. You're right I was totally spacing the Bloom portion of the 3 part AN system.

• So for AN Grow I should be using 15.16 ml per gallon, if I'm using the recommended 4ml a liter for plants with 4 or more leaf sets.

• Micro (They recommend 1/2 tsp):

MG .50%​

Boron .02%​

Cobalt .005%​

Iron .10%​

Manganese .05%​

Molybdenum .0005%​

Zinc .05%​

​

AN Micro would contain (cant find percentages)​

Calcium nitrate​

potasium nitrate​

urea​

iron​

free form edta​

iron dtpa​

iron edta​

manganese edta​

boron​

zinc edta​

sodium molbdate​

cobalt chelate​

For P I have 2 options:

• AN Sensibloom 2 part.

Part a (4ml per liter recommended)​

Nitrogen 3%​

Calcium 2.1%​

Magnesium .6%​

iron .4%​

manganese .05%​

Part b (4ml per liter recommended)​

Nitrogen 2%​

Phosphate 4%​

Potash 8%​

Sulfur .4%​

​

Or​

​

Flower fuel​

N 1%​

Phosphate 34%​

Potash 32%​

Sulfur 2.1%​

Boron .03%​

Molybdenum .0006%​

​

AN Bloom would contain​

N 1%​

Phosphate 3%​

Potash 4%​

Sulfur .2%​

It looks to me like I could use the Sensibloom (Part b 15.16 ml per gallon) and Calimagic at 1 teaspoon per gallon and have everything in range.

CaliMagic
N 1%
Calcium 5%
Magnesium 1.5%
Iron.1%

Does that add up to you @FelipeBlu? Thanks again, math is not my super power.