Boo’s Perpetual Grow Journal

BooWho2 said:
Thanks Mr. S! Given that info it looks like the ULH and Z will be transplanted this week! Once in the final pot I'm assuming that I will continue staying away from the stem when watering, and hold at 2g/gal or bump up? :thanks:
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InTheShed said:
No need to stay away from the stem any more, but I wouldn't saturate the entire pot. When I upcan from a solo cup into a much bigger pot, I water up to an inch beyond the original root ball, and extend out from there with each watering as the roots grow into the new soil. Going into a 1 gallon would be different.

I would say you're okay at 2g/gallon for now but wait for MrS for confirmation.
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With autos there's a couple of things to keep in mind, or at least I do when I transplant. Right now the roots are contained to the size of a solo cup. If you over saturate the medium in the final pot then you have a long waiting period before you can get them a higher dose of food.
The idea is to water approx. two times the diameter of the solo cup hole, and a little deeper from the base of the hole, with an increase in nutes. Do your upside down sandcastle and water inside first, very slowly with a small pipette or similar. You water the rest after the transplant.
Since you are currently at 2g you would now feed the area with 2.5g or 3g. If you water the area around the where the solo cup rootball is going then it has some nutrients right away. You'll soon be doing a full wet/dry cycle, but you want to see some growth again after the plant recovers.
Don't forget the mykos if you have it. If your pot is already wet then you'll know for next time. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
MrSauga said:
With autos there's a couple of things to keep in mind, or at least I do when I transplant. Right now the roots are contained to the size of a solo cup. If you over saturate the medium in the final pot then you have a long waiting period before you can get them a higher dose of food.
The idea is to water approx. two times the diameter of the solo cup hole, and a little deeper from the base of the hole, with an increase in nutes. Do your upside down sandcastle and water inside first, very slowly with a small pipette or similar. You water the rest after the transplant.
Since you are currently at 2g you would now feed the area with 2.5g or 3g. If you water the area around the where the solo cup rootball is going then it has some nutrients right away. You'll soon be doing a full wet/dry cycle, but you want to see some growth again after the plant recovers.
Don't forget the mykos if you have it. If your pot is already wet then you'll know for next time. :cheesygrinsmiley:
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Thanks MrS! I did do the sandcastle but didn’t do the water first. I did add a very light two circles around the two times the diameter you mentioned. I haven’t given her anything since then (and that was this morning) so I’ll go out and mix some new nutes at 2.5g and give a light feeding. Is 6-8 oz enough or too much at this point? I put her in a three gallon pot - will post a pic from my phone. I don’t know what mykos is...:eye-roll: oh, and also if you don’t mind, I’d like to document these steps we are walking thru and create a thread for it? I think it’s a very good baseline for new growers and would also be a helpful reminder in the future. Thanks for helping me get the seedlings basics down (all of you!).:love:
 
All of the plants had vigorous growth overnight. I have a confession to make...I've had the lights on the seedlings at 24/0. I realized it yesterday and adjusted them to 18/6. Think that's part of the noticable growth?
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Running an auto at 24/0 might be the best bet depending on the DLI they're getting. Or it may be wasting electricity :).
 
Thanks Shed. I was actually looking at the light intensity in both the cabinet and the tent today after I transplanted the Ulemonhaze. I have a light meter app that I downloaded a little while ago... In the cabinet at 7” from the light the lux was 34360 and at 11” it was 27630. In the tent it is 37527 @ 22 inches away and 80% power (One light on). I was looking at that so I didn’t shove the newly transplanted seedling under something that is extremely more powerful than the cabinet light (although that’s some pretty good lux for a cheap light, no?). Anyway, this kinda stuff is hard for me so I need to study it a little more. I have no issue running lights at 24/7 - just need to figure out how to do it with the lights I have...:thedoubletake: yet another thing to document along the way! :high-five:
 
In all the tests I've seen (including this one by farside05), phone meters are nowhere near accurate enough to go by, even as a comparison from light to light on the same phone.

If it's not beyond the budget, you can get a good lux meter for around $35 from Amazon. Mine is a Dr Meter LX1330B, and there are websites that will convert lux to PPFD for you to get you to your DLI for each space.

BooWho2 said:
Oh! I moved her into ProMix HP. That has the mycos in it, correct?
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It does, but many folks add it to the hole and roots at transplant. I stopped when I ran out :).
 
InTheShed said:
In all the tests I've seen (including this one by farside05), phone meters are nowhere near accurate enough to go by, even as a comparison from light to light on the same phone.

If it's not beyond the budget, you can get a good lux meter for around $35 from Amazon. Mine is a Dr Meter LX1330B, and there are websites that will convert lux to PPFD for you to get you to your DLI for each space.


It does, but many folks add it to the hole and roots at transplant. I stopped when I ran out :).
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Sounds good. I will check it out. At the moment I have the ULH at 22” away from the light so hopefully she will be fine. Even with a crappy lux app I’ve adjusted the height to be somewhat consistent with what she had in the cabinet. Still so much to learn! :thanks:
 
BooWho2 said:
Is 6-8 oz enough or too much at this point? I put her in a three gallon pot - will post a pic from my phone.
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At this point it's a judgement thing. I'm not usually measuring since this is really a one time thing. As long as the patch you watered goes from the stem out, past the cup diameter, you are fine. You want the pot to dry out now, light to lift, then go ahead with your normal watering practices.
BooWho2 said:
I don’t know what mykos is...
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Everyone spells the short version different. Mykos, myco, mycor, and Shed covered that. I honestly don't know if it's a benefit, but I have a bit left that may never be replenished.
BooWho2 said:
I’d like to document these steps we are walking thru and create a thread for it? I think it’s a very good baseline for new growers and would also be a helpful reminder in the future. Thanks for helping me get the seedlings basics down (all of you!).:love:
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Sure you can. But understand it's just my way of doing things, and others may disagree so don't send them my way. ;)
BooWho2 said:
Think that's part of the noticable growth?
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It's hard to say. I've seen autos under 24/0 that don't grow much at all. I run 18/6 as I like my plants to rest. Many will run it 20/4 but honestly I can't say that I have seen any benefit. That doesn't mean there isn't, I just haven't seen it myself.
Good genetics and proper watering(any method) and you'll always have good results. You have to get autos growing steadily. Once they stall they are almost certainly going to go into flower shortly thereafter.
 
InTheShed said:
They offered me the original seeds as a sponsored grow, so I always made sure to mention them and link to their site in return. That did sound like an open invitation but I haven't followed up as I have no idea what to grow for the spring. It seems like years away!
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It is an open invite Shed! :green_heart:
 
The deed is done. Hope I don't kill her.
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BooWho2 said:
The deed is done. Hope I don't kill her.
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Very little chance of that Boo!

looks perfect.

FYI mycorrhizae are a fungal coloniser that exist for all healthy root systems and both inoculate the roots against harm and are a crucial part of the nutrient exchange network between the roots and soil bacteria etc. This is all way more crucial in an organic soil and living soil grows, but it is also part of any growing involving roots! (So really any growing).

Adding a generous bonus sprinkle of mycorrhizae powder (lots of products out there) at transplant is thought to help ease the transition and make fresh fungal networks available instantly for the root system. This can help to eliminate ‘transplant shock’.

Apologies if that’s repeating what you already know - recent posts sounded like you didn’t so, unsolicited, I decided to share :)
 
Hi Amy! Thanks for stopping by! :love:
Amy Gardner said:
Apologies if that’s repeating what you already know - recent posts sounded like you didn’t so, unsolicited, I decided to share :)
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I did not know that so thank you very much. Another tidbit for the toolkit! I do have the ProMix HP with the mykos - but purely because everyone here said it was good stuff...;) BTW, thanks again for your input on the fan. The T6 is supposed to arrive on Saturday. :high-five:
 
Plant roots can actually (and do) make their own mycorrhizae/fungal hyphae colonies and we can add it too.

Here’s something for interest that I like to drop around the forum occasionally.

Note that it’s most specific to Living Organic Soil growing, BUT - it’s now known that some of this is still going on in non-organic and non ‘living soil’ growing as well. That’s why we see so many products coming out now to add these fungi and some bacteria to hydro, passive hydro and soilless grows that use synthetic/chelated nutes as well. In a living soil grow, everything hinges on it - when growing w nutes etc., it’s more of an enhancement and optimisation thing ... IMHO & AFAIK

...very simplified version, an excerpt from Symphony of the Soil. (Elaine is my hero :) )
 
Nmind...
 
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