Ok one more update for today.
She has grown since this morning!!
Hard to tell but the leaf with the spot was resting on the hydroton and now it is not
Also I had the res just a tad too full as the water was right at the base, had to remove about 1/4 gallon to get it about a 1/4 inch off the net. I figure closer, but not touching, is better right now to entice root growth into the res.
When I bought my tent kit, the DVD that came with it said to keep the water ½" below the net pot. So I did.
Gary at PA Hydro says to fill the res so that the net pot is in the nutrient solution. He sells more hydro kits so I figure he's fairly knowledgeable. The advantage of raising the water level that high is that means you don't have to top feed the seedling. Makes sense.
"entice root growth into the res." - roots respond to gravity and eventually hit moisture. They cannot sense water; they just keep heading in the direction of gravity.
I also “installed” a port, though probably not big enough for the pump but is fine to add water. I figure I can just pop the lid open really quick and drop the pump in when I need to do that.
Port cover is about as ugly as it gets. Any cleaner maybe more effective solutions out there?
I drilled holes to 1 ½" and installed
"desk grommets" so I could run wires for my doser and monitor. These
"wire grommets" fit over a hole for a 4 and something inch net pot. I'm pretty sure I bought the green cover in the photo below from Amazon but I can't find the order. I think it's a 6" diameter cover and I found it was just too large but you might need a portal that size if you're going to be putting a pump in and then taking it out.
The water gauge is a steel ruler stuck into a 4" cork top from the Widget Company. 4" < the size of a 4 and something inch net pot.
Unless you are willing to drill holes in your res top, you might want to use
fishing weights and
hooks for LST. I use ½, 1, and 2 oz weights.
I cut one of the mats that came with those mars hydro buckets that is black on one side and reflective on the other, meant to go over the hydroton, to cover the hole. Then the part that was cut out is wrapped in aluminum foil and sitting on top of that mat. It’s not perfect but it will do the trick until I can figure out something better.
Also went in and placed some more hydroton to cover more is the side walls, especially up top to try and eliminate light peaking through there as well.
PH update sitting at 5.8 so still looking good with no major spikes. Just a smooth steady climb from 5.5 about 26 hours ago. Once I hit the 72 hour mark, or it stabilizes I will bring it back down to 5.6ish and let her ride from there.
Glad to see things are turning around. The mystery of the grey foam…
pH 5.5?
"optimal" used to be 5.8 and per Bugbee, he recommends 6.0 to 6.5 (I've set my doser to 6.0) because cannabis and iron don't play nice once you get to 5.0. pH doesn't often drop (unlike what the WonderChart suggests, dropping pH is not a function of EC being too high)
Then for now the plan is once she hits the water for a week I will start my weekly increase in EC/nutes.
I’m feeling much more positive and in control of this now. Whew!
I only run three levels of nutes - 300'ish for seedlings then rising up to about 500 or 600 for veg and then 700-800 for flower. There's no value to the plant to bump nutrient levels every week. In fact, one of the reasons to get away from the 5 gallon bucket is that the amount of labor is drastically reduced because there are so many ferts in the res.
The goal of adding ferts is to provide enough ferts to keep the plant in the sufficiency range. In terms of PPM (understanding that PPM is, at best, a bad proxy since it tells the grower
nothing about what chemicals are in the res), I did RO add backs for a few grows and would allow the PPM to drop by 30% before I would do a new res. Even when the PPM of the res is down by 25% the ferts are either in the plant, where they belong, or there's still a hell of a lot of ferts still in the res.
I was having problems with my Bluelab pH, EC, and temperature monitor earlier this week. The display switched to all "8". I disconnected the power and the pH probe lead, then reconnected, and powered up. Display showed all "8"s. Shit. I have a doser that tells me pH and temperature and I have a water chiller so I decided that I simply didn't need to replace the monitor with a new one since I really have no need to know the EC on an ongoing basis. EC is just not that big a deal when you're dealing with a decent sized res. In a bucket, yeh, it helps to check because even a moderately sized plant induces significant, rapid change in a little bucket. Once you get away from the eye dropper-sized res, it's a
very different story.
You're going to pay your dues learning how to deal with 14 gallons of nutes but the pay off is that you just don't have to dick with it that much. My res holds 28 gallons and I think it was in grow #4 that I started having "Maytag repairman" grows.
The big issue with swapping the res is because pH becomes unstable. When growers use a 5 gallon bucket, that's hand to hand combat. No thanks. With the bigger res that you've got, you will come to enjoy the stability of both pH and EC.
I just did my third res for this grow but I really don't know if it was needed. Bugbee mindset is to never have to replace a res. Why's that? Because NASA wants to grow crops in space and having to replace nutrient water in space would be a huge issue. His approach is that simply adding back nutrient solution is all that's needed to maintain sufficiency. Interesting idea, eh?