I disagree when you say that you're inside tent temps can't be lower that the room temps. Here is a pic from my temps.
Fans and circulation are pretty straight forward.
Bring cold air in - exhaust hot. Likely you wanna bring it in up high on one side of the room, let it fall within the room, and duct out up high on the other if possible. If you have good circulation fans, you prolly want to duct in from down low, as it will likely be cooler air than up top.
As far as intake and exhaust pressure - again depends where the air is coming from, and what you need to do with it. If you're using an A/C then blowing cool air in will be good. If you're using an exhaust fan, then sucking the air out will be good. Doing both is usually the ticket.
The other thing to consider is odor. If you create a slight vacuum in your room, then you know all smells are contained. So usually the bigger fan on the exhaust with a carbon filter. But I've also gotten good results by just blowing cold air in when needed, and forcing the exhaust out passively. Doesn't control smell, but will cool the room.
I agree 100%. A tent will not help temps, unless you have some small A/C or other device that would cool a 4x4 but not a 10x10. The only thing about doing the whole room is that you will need to size everything for the room, instead of a tent.
Man is that scary!! Thats a cool day? WOW !! There are 2 things that will help with heat issues, they are carbs and silica supplement.
Carbohydrates : Carbs help process light/heat faster. Heat forces the plant to try and keep up with transpiration. Which is done through photosynthesis, and the way to help with this is using carbohydrates. Carbs help to supplement the HUGE amount of sugars being used by the plant. With the stomata be forced to work overtime and the cellulose of the plant on the brink of collapsing due to a low RH, these items have to be supplemented. Using or increasing carbohydrates will help to level the plant off.
Silica : Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue which in turn helps plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost.
Very interesting. I have Grandmas unsulphured Molasses which should add Carbs but other than that what can be used? I think Irish has Pro tect Silica but he'll get back to you and say it in his own words. I am interested in your carb idea however. Thanks! .V.
Man is that scary!! Thats a cool day? WOW !! There are 2 things that will help with heat issues, they are carbs and silica supplement.
Carbohydrates : Carbs help process light/heat faster. Heat forces the plant to try and keep up with transpiration. Which is done through photosynthesis, and the way to help with this is using carbohydrates. Carbs help to supplement the HUGE amount of sugars being used by the plant. With the stomata be forced to work overtime and the cellulose of the plant on the brink of collapsing due to a low RH, these items have to be supplemented. Using or increasing carbohydrates will help to level the plant off.
Silica : Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue which in turn helps plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost.
Very interesting. I have Grandmas unsulphured Molasses which should add Carbs but other than that what can be used? I think Irish has Pro tect Silica but he'll get back to you and say it in his own words. I am interested in your carb idea however. Thanks! .V.
I have a 4 x 19 x 53 lighthouse grow tent. These tents are very well made they have heavy duty zippers and reinforced vent holes and so on. Now I was shipped the wrong tent, I had ordered the 4 x 24 x 53. Nevertheless the tent I got is very well made, but after getting it all set up and light on I could see some light escaping. There were two pin holes on the left side and two on the right side. Inside the tent there are two pockets on either side. This is where the holes are. I think it must have been when the tent was sewn. I just put some duct tape over it. Other than that there are flaps that cover the zippers up. Now every tent is made differently so you will need to do some research first. Someone put up a link for tent reviews that is a good place to start. So I would say that my tent is now 99.9% light proof.
I had major heat problems from the beginning. All I had for an exhaust was a 180cfm duct fan. So what I did was take a water/ice fan {kind of like a swamp cooler and portable A/C unit} that I had and constructed a 4in connector to it and then to the tent. So I was blowing the cold air into the tent and this worked fine for a while until the plants started to smell oh so good to me, but not my wife. I ended up moving the tent to another closet in the house. This time I bought a 6in carbon filter fan combo for it. I ran it up into the attic and out through the eve vents. This is working out much better. The temps in the room lets say are 77F when I turn on the fan I can get it to 70F if I want to. Because of the air movement I can get lower temps. This may not sound right, but it works. I can also hook back up the water/ice fan and get even lower temps. This will help when the temps get over 100F here.
Not sure if I would vent the A/C exhaust back into the room all that hot air will go into the tent. IMO. If you could exhaust to a window, attic, bathroom exhaust, or something that would be your best bet.
Yes the better tents do block out some of the radiant heat. You can also get a material that blocks out radiant heat, they sell it at home depot. Some people put it over there HID lights to block out the FLIR {forward looking Infrared Radar} from helicopters. Click HERE to see a Youtube video on this.
nevergetbusted — January 04, 2009 — Barry Cooper explains how police use FLIR technology to look for heat signatures.
Whatever you end up doing I know you will have a GREAT grow!!
