1080w LED Inferno

[IrishBoy]

Irish, I see you're not going to get a tent so this prolly doesn't matter but, you have seen my box. 3/4 inch plywood, 2x2 by 51 inches tall. Ran 400HPS in it for years before the LED switch(thank God). I have active and passive intakes and two seperate exhausts. All fans are speed controlled as you know. The intakes are down low to the ground, heat rises so exhaust fans are at the top. The internal temps of my box ALLWAYS are cooler than the ambient temps, especially when there is a full canopy. With lights out and the main exhaust off the secondary exhaust fan runs 24/7 and the box can be 6 to 8 degrees cooler than my living space. But again I see you're not going with a tent but someone else might want too know what happens with others situations. .V.
P.S. Did some thinking about what you were saying about heat stress caused by HID lighting. Makes perfect sense to me and with your silica going and you said you had something else under your sleeve... Hygrozyme? You'll most likely pull this off just fine. We're all rooting for ya, you know that Bro.

very informative post! +REP!!

I i deiced to ditch the tent. my room was 88F* then when i switched my fans around its now 84F* and still going down. i think one i get the same size exhaust it will be allot lower. since the air will be flowing straight out and creating a good breeze if you will. since its so hot over here i want that air moving really fast.

are both you fans the same size in ur box?

thanks for the support bro!

 

[IrishBoy]

I disagree when you say that you're inside tent temps can't be lower that the room temps. Here is a pic from my temps.

can i just move my plants to your house? i like your temps better then mine.

 

[Green Utopia]

Fans and circulation are pretty straight forward.

Bring cold air in - exhaust hot. Likely you wanna bring it in up high on one side of the room, let it fall within the room, and duct out up high on the other if possible. If you have good circulation fans, you prolly want to duct in from down low, as it will likely be cooler air than up top.

As far as intake and exhaust pressure - again depends where the air is coming from, and what you need to do with it. If you're using an A/C then blowing cool air in will be good. If you're using an exhaust fan, then sucking the air out will be good. Doing both is usually the ticket.

The other thing to consider is odor. If you create a slight vacuum in your room, then you know all smells are contained. So usually the bigger fan on the exhaust with a carbon filter. But I've also gotten good results by just blowing cold air in when needed, and forcing the exhaust out passively. Doesn't control smell, but will cool the room.

In theory all this stays the same with CO2. In practice it all gets about a million times more tricky. Principals are the same, just need to coordinate everything better. Its very easy to duct out all your CO2 because your Temp/Humidity controller has the fans running too much.

As far as the thermometer - its certainly possible to get the tent cooler than the room, but not with only a fan. In fact, if you use only a fan and do not duct the heat out - you will rapidly raise the temp in the room because the fan's motor creates heat that is recirculated, and as we all know, making air move faster makes it heat up from friction, so just the very act of blowing it heats it up. A fan will 100% for sure not lower the temperature of air. It moves air. If that thermometer was from a room using only fans - no house A/C, no water cooling, no peltier device, no outside air cooling the intake - then one or the other of those probes is inaccurate (which they all are), or you have it in the coolest place in one room and the hottest place in another. If you were to move it to an average you would see they're both the same.

 

[TorturedSoul]

Gas water heater? If so make sure you've got enough air coming into the room to allow the burner to burn (and vent) correctly. Does your water-heater's exhaust smell like a grow room, lol?

Add extra insulation to the tank and insulate the lines.

 

[Green Utopia]

Gas water heater? If so make sure you've got enough air coming into the room to allow the burner to burn (and vent) correctly. Does your water-heater's exhaust smell like a grow room, lol?

Add extra insulation to the tank and insulate the lines.

Great points!

Insulation is a big pain in the ass, and if you do it half-assed it won't do crap. But if you insulate carefully, it can make a big difference.

I'd rep you all but I can't yet!

 

[vipers]

very informative post! +REP!!

I i deiced to ditch the tent. my room was 88F* then when i switched my fans around its now 84F* and still going down. i think one i get the same size exhaust it will be allot lower. since the air will be flowing straight out and creating a good breeze if you will. since its so hot over here i want that air moving really fast.

are both you fans the same size in ur box?

thanks for the support bro!

The main unit is an Elicent AXC 100B it exausts at if I remember right 165 or so CFM. The smaller exhaust is a small Dayton that is at 95 CFM. The intake is a 110 volt muffin fan, not sure of the CFM but not very much that's for sure. Forgot to mention the Bergstrom school bus fan that keeps the breeze inside the box. It's a two speed fan. .V.
P.S. That School bus fan is a 12 volt but I run it with 6. The idea being less voltage would mean longer life since it runs 24/7.

 

[IrishBoy]

Fans and circulation are pretty straight forward.
Bring cold air in - exhaust hot. Likely you wanna bring it in up high on one side of the room, let it fall within the room, and duct out up high on the other if possible. If you have good circulation fans, you prolly want to duct in from down low, as it will likely be cooler air than up top.

As far as intake and exhaust pressure - again depends where the air is coming from, and what you need to do with it. If you're using an A/C then blowing cool air in will be good. If you're using an exhaust fan, then sucking the air out will be good. Doing both is usually the ticket.

The other thing to consider is odor. If you create a slight vacuum in your room, then you know all smells are contained. So usually the bigger fan on the exhaust with a carbon filter. But I've also gotten good results by just blowing cold air in when needed, and forcing the exhaust out passively. Doesn't control smell, but will cool the room.

Very good point on the odor, i was just thinking about that. i am finding about its a fine balancing act. but i rather spend my money on balancing out the air flow then buy a tent.

 

[Green Utopia]

Very good point on the odor, i was just thinking about that. i am finding about its a fine balancing act. but i rather spend my money on balancing out the air flow then buy a tent.

I agree 100%. A tent will not help temps, unless you have some small A/C or other device that would cool a 4x4 but not a 10x10. The only thing about doing the whole room is that you will need to size everything for the room, instead of a tent.

 

[IrishBoy]

I agree 100%. A tent will not help temps, unless you have some small A/C or other device that would cool a 4x4 but not a 10x10. The only thing about doing the whole room is that you will need to size everything for the room, instead of a tent.

the more and more i think about it i think my best bet is to run both intake and exhaust the same size. well shit i forgot i can adjust my fan speed with my fans. they come with to speeds, so i can set my intake a little slower to create a slight vac if the odors become a problem. but i would only want a slight vac affect so i dont pull in too much heat from the water heater ducting that run into the hot attic.

i guess ill have to play around with it.

 

[lavendar]

just got here, and havent read all the pages, so forgive me if i step on some toes, i run two tents, same brand...one 4x8, 4x4...we pull air in from outside, thru screens of diff gauge, thru a silencer, and the intake i forget what it pulls, but it is larger than for the room, the exhaust is set at 78, and when the temp hits that, it sucks the air out....and last summer when it was in the high 90's here, it kept it in the 70's in the tent, and as far as light proof goes, i stood inside and found no light leaks in either....and we run regular fans for circulation of air also...the tents look like slightly puffy square cubes before the exhaust comes on....thats how i can see the temps are decent in there, so there is also passive exhaust ....i loved working inside them last summer, very pleasant and breezy.....later, lavendar

 

[KX808]

Welcome to 420 and are you talking about me? Vipers aka Viper .V.

My Bad. Yes, I saw you mention it, tanks. I'm really bad on computers and learning new tricks is cool

Thanks for the welcome Vipers. I really like the platform here at 420. No shcmack from virtual donkeys (mostly). Great exchange of solid info is just too cool.

 

[TheMilkMan]

Amen

 

[Sonzor]

Hello Irish, a little late to the party, but very glad I found it. As usual you get all the smart people to your journal, including yourself of course. Your journals always have the most amazing information. Will stay tuned for sure... + rep

 

[grandaddie77]

Count me in, the last thread was AWESOME. I expect this one to be STELLAR!! I wish you luck and may the Ganja Gods be with you my friend. GL

 

[gzusZombie]

If you can figure it out without the tent and save $$$ thats cool. But it will be easier to control the temps in a smaller space (tent).Also the reflective surface inside the tent is a +. But I hear you on saving the money $hit gets expensive! You know your room the best though so I'm sure whatever you decide will work just fine. I think it was already mentioned but properly insulating the water heater would help with some of the heat too.

 

[The Butcher]

Man is that scary!! Thats a cool day? WOW !! There are 2 things that will help with heat issues, they are carbs and silica supplement.

Carbohydrates : Carbs help process light/heat faster. Heat forces the plant to try and keep up with transpiration. Which is done through photosynthesis, and the way to help with this is using carbohydrates. Carbs help to supplement the HUGE amount of sugars being used by the plant. With the stomata be forced to work overtime and the cellulose of the plant on the brink of collapsing due to a low RH, these items have to be supplemented. Using or increasing carbohydrates will help to level the plant off.

Silica : Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue which in turn helps plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost.

Can you give a quick breakdown of the grow area?

 

[vipers]

Man is that scary!! Thats a cool day? WOW !! There are 2 things that will help with heat issues, they are carbs and silica supplement.

Carbohydrates : Carbs help process light/heat faster. Heat forces the plant to try and keep up with transpiration. Which is done through photosynthesis, and the way to help with this is using carbohydrates. Carbs help to supplement the HUGE amount of sugars being used by the plant. With the stomata be forced to work overtime and the cellulose of the plant on the brink of collapsing due to a low RH, these items have to be supplemented. Using or increasing carbohydrates will help to level the plant off.

Silica : Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue which in turn helps plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost.

Very interesting. I have Grandmas unsulphured Molasses which should add Carbs but other than that what can be used? I think Irish has Pro tect Silica but he'll get back to you and say it in his own words. I am interested in your carb idea however. Thanks! .V.

 

[The Butcher]

Man is that scary!! Thats a cool day? WOW !! There are 2 things that will help with heat issues, they are carbs and silica supplement.

Carbohydrates : Carbs help process light/heat faster. Heat forces the plant to try and keep up with transpiration. Which is done through photosynthesis, and the way to help with this is using carbohydrates. Carbs help to supplement the HUGE amount of sugars being used by the plant. With the stomata be forced to work overtime and the cellulose of the plant on the brink of collapsing due to a low RH, these items have to be supplemented. Using or increasing carbohydrates will help to level the plant off.

Silica : Silicate helps strengthen plant tissue which in turn helps plants flourish in adverse environmental conditions such as heat, drought, and frost.

Very interesting. I have Grandmas unsulphured Molasses which should add Carbs but other than that what can be used? I think Irish has Pro tect Silica but he'll get back to you and say it in his own words. I am interested in your carb idea however. Thanks! .V.

If you research the process of carbs you can find studies in which this has been proven. I have experimented with carbs for the last year. And have devlopede what I call it "Carb Stacking". Its where you actually double the intake of carbs provided to your plants. I average 4 tsp. per gallon. 2 A.N's Carboload ( see below ) and 2 of Gen. Hydro. Flora-Nectar. (see below)

Advanced Nutrients : Every cellular process in your plants requires energy. And plants rely on carbohydrates, just like humans, to produce this energy.

However, your plants have a lot of work to do to take them all the way from tiny little seeds to grow and bloom into big, juicy, lush buds filling out a huge harvest like you want them to.

After their growth phase they've used up a lot of energy already. Then about half-way into their bloom cycle, many growers see their plants hit a wall. In reality, their plants are what scientists call "carb depleted", because they've already burnt up all the carbohydrates they've been fed and have none left for energy to fuel further growth.

That's why your plants seem to "stall out" right in the middle of your bloom phase......

CARBOLOAD™ has a proprietary blend of glucose, arabinose and xylose, combined with Fulvic Acid. So your plants get simple sugars at just the right time giving them immediate flower boosting power, and the complex carbohydrates provide the long-term energy needs.

Plus, Fulvic Acid gives you more efficient roots. Specifically, it helps your plants absorb carbohydrates more easily and protects them from drought, oxygen-deprivation, stress and disease.

The sugars in CARBOLOAD™ translate directly to floral sugars. This is because the sugars in CARBOLOAD™ fuels your plants internal pathways so your finished crops are more aromatic and taste sweeter than ever.

CARBOLOAD™ adds complex sugars to your plant's metabolism and physical structure. That means instead of the green, chlorophyll taste you often get from hydroponics, rockwool, and other high intensity lighting crops, you get sweeter-tasting and delicious smelling plants of higher quality and far higher value.

General Hydroponics : FloraNectar contains all natural raw-cane sugar, molasses, malt syrup, select plant based esters, L-amino acids, polyflavonoids, vitamins and essential minerals. This unique blend of ingredients helps your plants regulate enzymes that trigger specific reactions involved in maintaining optimal metabolism. This allows your plants to achieve a balance between respiration and photosynthesis in high intensity growing environments where the rate of respiration can sometimes exceed the rate of photosynthesis

I hope this gives you more information on the process of carbs in plant life. I stand by my study of "Carb Stacking". I've achieved some of the most potent flowers I've ever grown using this method and have not stop using it since I first started.

 

[Myzz617]

I have a 4 x 19 x 53 lighthouse grow tent. These tents are very well made they have heavy duty zippers and reinforced vent holes and so on. Now I was shipped the wrong tent, I had ordered the 4 x 24 x 53. Nevertheless the tent I got is very well made, but after getting it all set up and light on I could see some light escaping. There were two pin holes on the left side and two on the right side. Inside the tent there are two pockets on either side. This is where the holes are. I think it must have been when the tent was sewn. I just put some duct tape over it. Other than that there are flaps that cover the zippers up. Now every tent is made differently so you will need to do some research first. Someone put up a link for tent reviews that is a good place to start. So I would say that my tent is now 99.9% light proof.

I had major heat problems from the beginning. All I had for an exhaust was a 180cfm duct fan. So what I did was take a water/ice fan {kind of like a swamp cooler and portable A/C unit} that I had and constructed a 4in connector to it and then to the tent. So I was blowing the cold air into the tent and this worked fine for a while until the plants started to smell oh so good to me, but not my wife. I ended up moving the tent to another closet in the house. This time I bought a 6in carbon filter fan combo for it. I ran it up into the attic and out through the eve vents. This is working out much better. The temps in the room lets say are 77F when I turn on the fan I can get it to 70F if I want to. Because of the air movement I can get lower temps. This may not sound right, but it works. I can also hook back up the water/ice fan and get even lower temps. This will help when the temps get over 100F here.

Not sure if I would vent the A/C exhaust back into the room all that hot air will go into the tent. IMO. If you could exhaust to a window, attic, bathroom exhaust, or something that would be your best bet.

Yes the better tents do block out some of the radiant heat. You can also get a material that blocks out radiant heat, they sell it at home depot. Some people put it over there HID lights to block out the FLIR {forward looking Infrared Radar} from helicopters. Click HERE to see a Youtube video on this.
nevergetbusted — January 04, 2009 — Barry Cooper explains how police use FLIR technology to look for heat signatures.

Whatever you end up doing I know you will have a GREAT grow!!

Mkk just finished watching the video, does anyone know the name of this material one can buy at Home depot? Thanks in advance

OO and irish i voted for your nug my friend

 

[IrishBoy]

Gas water heater? If so make sure you've got enough air coming into the room to allow the burner to burn (and vent) correctly. Does your water-heater's exhaust smell like a grow room, lol?

Add extra insulation to the tank and insulate the lines.

going to the store today and get some insulation. after i switched the fans around the heater isn't really raising the room temps like it was the other way. plus arnt i getting free co2 with the water heater?lol