1080w LED Inferno

With my present setup, I wouldn't be able to 24/24 except in winter. My grows require running my lights at night most of the year.

It's warming up here and I'm not sure I'm going to be able to run the 400w HID without air-cooling the hood, but we'll see how it goes. I'm running about 10 degrees above ambient with the S&P wired for high speed.
 
With my present setup, I wouldn't be able to 24/24 except in winter. My grows require running my lights at night most of the year.

It's warming up here and I'm not sure I'm going to be able to run the 400w HID without air-cooling the hood, but we'll see how it goes. I'm running about 10 degrees above ambient with the S&P wired for high speed.

Ya thats the one bad thing about 24/0 is the light temps.
you might have to run the air cooled future if temps are raising like that. maybe a bigger fan will help? whats the tent temp with the HID on?

Did you ever figure out how you gonna do your Hempy Bucket and its medium? you should have your light in any time now right?

i cant wait to see the temps difference between both lights?
 
Ya thats the one bad thing about 24/0 is the light temps.
you might have to run the air cooled future if temps are raising like that. maybe a bigger fan will help? whats the tent temp with the HID on?

Did you ever figure out how you gonna do your Hempy Bucket and its medium? you should have your light in any time now right?

i cant wait to see the temps difference between both lights?


Temps with the 400w HID started at 72 ambient, 86 tent. Re-wiring the S&P to high speed brought it down 2 degrees to 84. Relocating the carbon filter to the tent corner and having a straighter duct run brought it down another 2 degrees to 82.

So, I've been running around 72 ambient, 82 in the tent, but the ambient can easily get up over 80 in mid-summer, so I'll either get a bigger fan or air-cool the hood or both.

I'm also very curious to see the temp differences between Mike's light and the HID.

As far as I know, I should be getting it pretty soon.

I think I'm going to run my hempy buckets with perlite and about 20-25% Pondcare aquatic soil, which is inert, PH stable, and will aid water retention much like vermiculite.

Sort of the original hempy recipe but substituting something I like more than vermiculite.
 
Another great thread irish I'm glued ;) grabbing knowledge and lovin every minute of it!!

thanks for your time and effort on these grows1:bravo::bravo::bravo:
 
I used to have a dark period during veg, but this time we are going 24/0, and it's definitely not hurting them! It's hard to say how much better they are doing since it's my first time with hempy, but the results so far have been nothing shore of amazing.

I'm fighting temps too - with our 474 cfm fan in a 6x8 closet, we are 5 degrees above ambient... hovering around 90 most of the day. I don't really know what to look for as far as heat stress, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with them either.

Would you guys consider going with just perlite in a future hempy?
 
Plants look like they are enjoying the heat. Does not look like they are stressed out one bit. In my limited experience, I have found that plants like a little dark time to rest and regroup after a hard day of growing. So I do the 18/6 and have not noticed any slowing of growth, on my full moon I actually think they grew a little faster. Just a amateur opinion so take it with a grain of salt.... Great job and great journal...
 
I have a question for the group. I bubble clone, one at a time and when the weather gets warm sometimes before rooting there will be a snot like substance on the roots. I'll use a drop of superthrive but other than that just plain RO or sometimes straight tap. This condition hinders rooting but in the past I have just wiped off the stem and change the water and clean the plumbing and more ofter than not, it will root. Is it the superthrive that's causing this or is this something else?? Also I find that before a clone pushes roots keeping it in a shaded area helps keep the clone from wilting. I have a theory on this but would like to hear from others who might know. Some of you cats are the voices of reason and I value your opinions. Thanks peeps. .V.
 
I have a question for the group. I bubble clone, one at a time and when the weather gets warm sometimes before rooting there will be a snot like substance on the roots. I'll use a drop of superthrive but other than that just plain RO or sometimes straight tap. This condition hinders rooting but in the past I have just wiped off the stem and change the water and clean the plumbing and more ofter than not, it will root. Is it the superthrive that's causing this or is this something else?? Also I find that before a clone pushes roots keeping it in a shaded area helps keep the clone from wilting. I have a theory on this but would like to hear from others who might know. Some of you cats are the voices of reason and I value your opinions. Thanks peeps. .V.

Reservoir temps. When the weather gets warm, the water you refill with is warmer as well. Above 75 and you'll see soup. More oxygen or cooler res is the fix.

:peace:
 
And adding vitamins to the water probably just helps make the environment better for any "soup" to grow. Not that it wouldn't provide some benefit for the plant - I don't know. But it might be a case of is the help it provides to the plant worth the help it provides to the "soup" (which would seem to NOT be helpful to the plant)?

I used to have a dark period during veg, but this time we are going 24/0, and it's definitely not hurting them! It's hard to say how much better they are doing since it's my first time with hempy, but the results so far have been nothing shore of amazing.

Here's one that I cannot remember the answer to and it doesn't seem to have made it into my old notes: Does more vegetative light-hours shorten the number of days it takes to bring the plant to maturity (alternating internodes, likely "pre-"flowers, and ready to start flowering at the drop of a... light) or does it just produce a larger plant by the time that maturity is achieved?

I don't really know what to look for as far as heat stress, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with them either.

Mild to moderate would be growth (and/or flowering, depending on which part of the life-cycle is is in) that is slower than normal and internodes that are longer than normal. Increased water consumption, of course. Possibly extended root growth as the plant attempts to reach "cooler soil." Somewhat airier buds. Plants with barely-adequate DO content in the water will probably start to droop. Plants with plenty of DO in the reservoir barely notice.

More extreme would be flowering foibles - possibly taking longer or, alternatively, possibly even taking less time (but with much less yield). Increased occurrence of hermaphrodism due to the stress and also to the plant going into "survival mode". More of the same of the mild to moderate affects. Plants with lots of DO are starting to get a mild case of the summertime blues while plants with inadequate DO are causing your mate to laugh at your growing prowess because they're looking sad, the roots have lost that healthy white look and their normal flexibility. "Root-rot" and growth of unwanted reservoir residents might be happening if the DO content is not high enough. Higher tendency for "on the edge" nutrient levels to cause burn.

Much more extreme would be... A crunchy dead plant. Move to the Arctic Circle or make friends with the nearest dealer.

Heat is only another thing to be aware of and to deal with; it's not a deal-breaker. Last Summer someone emailed me a picture of their reservoir temperature display (100.9°F if I remember correctly) and of their canopy temperature display (around 112°F). They stated that it was 10-15 degrees higher than normal but not the absolute hottest day, that growth seemed to slow greatly during the hottest part of the hottest days but since the average temperatures were much lower things were fine overall (although of course yields were higher, buds were tighter, etc. in the Winter), that it was DWC, and that each reservoir had a powerhead constantly supersaturating the DO levels while keeping the reservoir mixed/agitated and at least one long airstone so that the plants would survive in the unlikely event that a powerhead quit working. They also reported that they'd decreased the nutrient strength a bit (I believe 20%-25%) and that their only fear was that a Summer storm would cause them to lose power for more than six or eight hours which would allow the DO levels in the reservoirs to drop below critical levels for the temperature.
 
With my present setup, I wouldn't be able to 24/24 except in winter. My grows require running my lights at night most of the year.

It's warming up here and I'm not sure I'm going to be able to run the 400w HID without air-cooling the hood, but we'll see how it goes. I'm running about 10 degrees above ambient with the S&P wired for high speed.


SS, in my 30x30, I use a stanley blower, adapted to sit on top of the box and suck air out, and I have to keep it on low, and it works great. The only issue is not enough intake, but if your tent is like mine and you have other holes in the tent to use for intake, perhaps a smaller inline blower adding to the intake, coupled with the stanley blower, or other HO fan, it should cool things nicely. I always ran the 400W in my tent, without many problems. Then again my lowryder ladies love the heat. Back to the strain you decide to go with.

So the Hempy is doing you good Irish??? I like that setup you have going on, it seems real easy and... K.I.S.S!

This thread is wonderful...the amount of knowledge that will come of it...should be made into a continuing journal!

Your a star Irish! hehe

Peace guys!!!!

:peace::peace::peace:
 
I will tell you what? i am really digging this Hempy setup that i made. the top is staying nice and moist and cool with i put my figure in the top few inches. once these girls hit the res they just bushed out real nice with new growth. every day is more and more dramatic. I am not use to this hydro growth. As of now i dont think i will change this setup using Hempy's. hepy's and LST kick ass on their own but mixed together i am thinking its gonna be a potent mix?

My only concern with LST and Hempy was ripping the roots out of the perlite, but I'm hoping the counter-tie should work the same as it does in soil to prevent that.

I'm really looking forward to switching to passive hydro! I've seen a lot of impressive hempy grows.

I used to have a dark period during veg, but this time we are going 24/0, and it's definitely not hurting them! It's hard to say how much better they are doing since it's my first time with hempy, but the results so far have been nothing shore of amazing.

I'm fighting temps too - with our 474 cfm fan in a 6x8 closet, we are 5 degrees above ambient... hovering around 90 most of the day. I don't really know what to look for as far as heat stress, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with them either.

Would you guys consider going with just perlite in a future hempy?

If I like how hempy performs for me on the next grow, I'm going to run different hempy mediums in following grows to narrow things down, and straight perlite would definitely be in the running.

hempy lends itself to lots of experimentation, which is another reason I'm looking forward to making the switch.

SS, in my 30x30, I use a stanley blower, adapted to sit on top of the box and suck air out, and I have to keep it on low, and it works great. The only issue is not enough intake, but if your tent is like mine and you have other holes in the tent to use for intake, perhaps a smaller inline blower adding to the intake, coupled with the stanley blower, or other HO fan, it should cool things nicely. I always ran the 400W in my tent, without many problems. Then again my lowryder ladies love the heat. Back to the strain you decide to go with.

hehehehe, guess what?

I googled "stanley blower mod" yesterday, lol

How loud is it on the low speed setting?
 
...
Would you guys consider going with just perlite in a future hempy?

Straight perlite works great in hempies. I know growers that achieve outstanding results with that medium.

I have a question for the group. I bubble clone, one at a time and when the weather gets warm sometimes before rooting there will be a snot like substance on the roots. I'll use a drop of superthrive but other than that just plain RO or sometimes straight tap. This condition hinders rooting but in the past I have just wiped off the stem and change the water and clean the plumbing and more ofter than not, it will root. Is it the superthrive that's causing this or is this something else?? Also I find that before a clone pushes roots keeping it in a shaded area helps keep the clone from wilting. I have a theory on this but would like to hear from others who might know. Some of you cats are the voices of reason and I value your opinions. Thanks peeps. .V.


Add a table spoon or two of H2O2 per gallon to your res to keep the snot off the roots.

As far as cooling goes, I have a great design for a simple heat exchanger that should drop temps in a tent by about 5 - 15 degrees economically. I have thought about building one but ended up installing AC in my room.

It involves a used automotive oil cooler (completely cleaned to remove all oil, etc. from inside the cooler). Some 1/2 inch hose is run from the oil cooler into a large beverage cooler filled with water or water and ice and another 1/2 inch hose runs from the cooler back into the oil cooler. A box fan is placed atop the beverage cooler and the oil cooler is strapped to the box fan. A small pond pump is used inside the beverage cooler to move the water through the oil cooler.
 
Root Zone Temperature (RZT) is self-explanatory - it is the temperature in the area of the roots. Marijuana thrives when its roots are kept at room temperature, about 72 degrees. When the air temperature remains at 72 degrees and the root zone is cool, which often happens when containers are placed on a cold floor, the roots do not work as efficiently as they do at a higher temperature.

RZT can also be used as an environmental variable in relationship to air conditions. If the air temperature is too hot, for instance 85 degrees, which is 10-13 degrees above the ideal, and the water temperature is lowered to the low 60's using an aquarium-grade water chiller, the cool water and the warm air seem to cancel each other out. Perhaps there is a heat exchange going on within the plant.

Conversely, cool air temperatures can be ameliorated using warm RZT.
 
My only concern with LST and Hempy was ripping the roots out of the perlite, but I'm hoping the counter-tie should work the same as it does in soil to prevent that.

I'm really looking forward to switching to passive hydro! I've seen a lot of impressive hempy grows.



If I like how hempy performs for me on the next grow, I'm going to run different hempy mediums in following grows to narrow things down, and straight perlite would definitely be in the running.

hempy lends itself to lots of experimentation, which is another reason I'm looking forward to making the switch.



hehehehe, guess what?

I googled "stanley blower mod" yesterday, lol

How loud is it on the low speed setting?

that would be really cool to see how different mixes work in these Hempy buckets. i would love to see that.

as far as the roots being pulled out, if you do the counter tie right you should have no problems. works great for me and 2 on my bukets have almost all perlite.
 
Straight perlite works great in hempies. I know growers that achieve outstanding results with that medium.




Add a table spoon or two of H2O2 per gallon to your res to keep the snot off the roots.

As far as cooling goes, I have a great design for a simple heat exchanger that should drop temps in a tent by about 5 - 15 degrees economically. I have thought about building one but ended up installing AC in my room.

It involves a used automotive oil cooler (completely cleaned to remove all oil, etc. from inside the cooler). Some 1/2 inch hose is run from the oil cooler into a large beverage cooler filled with water or water and ice and another 1/2 inch hose runs from the cooler back into the oil cooler. A box fan is placed atop the beverage cooler and the oil cooler is strapped to the box fan. A small pond pump is used inside the beverage cooler to move the water through the oil cooler.

that sounds like a good DIY. ive also heard of growers using a car radiator to cool their rooms.
 
I have a question for the group. I bubble clone, one at a time and when the weather gets warm sometimes before rooting there will be a snot like substance on the roots. I'll use a drop of superthrive but other than that just plain RO or sometimes straight tap. This condition hinders rooting but in the past I have just wiped off the stem and change the water and clean the plumbing and more ofter than not, it will root. Is it the superthrive that's causing this or is this something else?? Also I find that before a clone pushes roots keeping it in a shaded area helps keep the clone from wilting. I have a theory on this but would like to hear from others who might know. Some of you cats are the voices of reason and I value your opinions. Thanks peeps. .V.

yup sounds like the water too warm for the roots. this is what i am afraid off. get some frozen water bottles at least to hold you off. and a few air stones
 
that sounds like a good DIY. ive also heard of growers using a car radiator to cool their rooms.


This little unit cost $150 for those not so into the DIY thing..
It's called an Ice Box.. Same setup as slimm was talking about..
6_inch_Ice_Box.jpg
 
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