In theory sort of yes, but in reality no, and that's because leaf temp differential from ambient temps is mainly driven by light intensity.
So if stretch is over and light intensity/hanging height won't change, you can set intensity reliably for long term, because the plant has pretty much stopped growing upwards.
Then if room temp drops or RH changes, VPD may go out of whack, but as ambient temp/RH alters, the 2 degree offset will hold.
Prior to the end of stretch you are both growing closer to the light, which increases intensity and changes the 2 degree offset, and the roots are developing, which gives the plant the ability to handle more light. So in veg you are adjusting and temp taking all the time.
Every day in stretch, so using a buddies gun once won't help you then. It may make today corrected, but tomorrow you will need another temp reading to correct things again.
Good VPD, including proper light intensity will definitely aid in better brix. Brix is 100% about proper balance, however you can grow full synthetics in DWC and VPD/light adjusting will greatly aid your grow, but achieving high brix in a mycoless environment, or any unnatural environment really, is almost impossible.
I say almost, because even tho hydroponics is a hack, you can always hack a hack to make it work, but it's expensive and very labour intensive. Brix rebels against hacks, it needs to operate as the genetics want to, not how we want it to.
But if you really like science and lab work and foliars and reservoir changes, it can be done. You basically need an educational setup such as a university lab or a private lab.
I imagine you could buy a USB attachment, but I don't think phones have IR laser pointers in them.
Bugs are the big indicator. If you don't have any pests and you don't use bug spray, your brix are probably high. If you have thrips your only a few points low, mites your mid level at best, and aphids are you very low brix.
If you are growing with LOS, like Lady C is, your usually standing in line to enter the ballpark, and it's only a tweak or 2 away. So getting high brix can happen quickly. Remember, in the presence of adequate light and minrrals, brix comes down to 5 things. Calcium, Oxygen, Carbon, Phosphorus, and microbes/fungii.
Usually low calcium and or overwatering, and quite often both because overwatering flushes calcium, is the cause or at least a major factor.
If it's carbon, then likely the light is too intense and leaves are too hot closing stomata and choking CO2, and if you correct those 3, then the plant responds by propogating healthier microbes, so that only leaves Phosphorus, and it's rarely phosphorus.
If it is P, then it's likely from too much because of a synthetic source adding way to much that bypasses microbes/fungii, or very poor myco that can't mine P from organic sources.
Most soil mixes and ammendments contain adequate P for LOS to at least get to 14-ish.
Folks who use low P veg soil can suffer from low brix in veg.
Good high brix LOS veg soil is just veg soil with added P and proper calcium. And myco/microbes of course.
The one thing that brixers rarely talk about is nitrogen. Our belief in needing tons of it is a synthetic thing.
Plants don't need essential amino's like humans, they can manufacture all their own, and they make it from nitrogen that the atmosphere supplies and microbes fix.
You do need nitrogen sources such as alfalfa or blood meal, or kelp meal, to balance your browns to greens during cooking, and brixers will look for a wider variety of nitrogen inputs here to build a better mineral spectrum, but once things are up and running, added nitrogens crash brix AND create tissues that bugs love.
Very healthy green looking plants can easily be low brix bug attractors because of too much nitrogen. It's like steroids. It builds tons of tissue, but not healthy tissue.
Not quite a direct answer, but once your head wraps around it the answers appear. Then it gets very straight forward.
It takes repeating, no one gets it in one go. Too many adjustments, so you learn them one at a time. Always start with calcium and oxygen.