Winging It In Winter By The Window: Soil Auto Grow

[Carmen Ray]

Aha! Back to the tutorial and I find my answers Thanks @Carcass, you have done a great job of explaining the steps!

My plant is 18" wide now, and that's about as wide as I want her to get - as she grows, she'll end up about 6" wider than she is right now, and I've got 24" in there, so she should fill the space pretty well by the time she's done...

So I won't be training her any wider, but we still need to guide the secondary branches to where we want them to end up...The 6 main branches will just be held where they are, and allowed to grow upward from now on.
At this point, I just watch for branches that are getting taller than the rest, and pull them back down to canopy level, while pointing them in the right direction.

For my particular application, the secondary branches that go past the edge of the pot only need to be trained out 3" past the pot edge , then they're allowed to grow upward...

Here's a look at one of the main branches- I'll just hold it at this height from here on, and let it grow upward...the plan now is to give her a week more to get leveled out, then flip to 12/12 and hope she doesn't stretch like crazy- I never really know how much stretch there'll be. I've been lucky with the last 4, we'll see if my luck is gonna hold for this one

Now I need some luck for my two too

 

[Grand Daddy Black]

Aha! Back to the tutorial and I find my answers Thanks @Carcass, you have done a great job of explaining the steps!







Now I need some luck for my two too

Carcass does explain stuff very well!

Your plants are doing well Carmen! I'm looking forward to seeing how the photos evolve.

 

[HappyHazmat88]

.......oh hey how are you? Your plants are looking NOICE.... *This has been a public service announcement brought to you by happy.....carry on*

 

[Carmen Ray]

Carcass does explain stuff very well!

Your plants are doing well Carmen! I'm looking forward to seeing how the photos evolve.

Thanks GDB, me too!

 

[Carmen Ray]

.......oh hey how are you? Your plants are looking NOICE.... *This has been a public service announcement brought to you by happy.....carry on*

Heeey Growmie. Thanks man! You often come to mind when I perform the shibari.

 

[TorturedSoul]

If things had gone according plan (i.e. breeder dates), the Lavender Best would be chopped by end July, but it looks like that won't happen

This thing is usually an estimate, sometimes overly optimistic, and occasionally... well, a strain with a shorter advertised flowering period might sell better . Plus, many strains have multiple phenotypes, and the breeder (or whoever writes his/her strain descriptions, which is not always the same person) might only be referring to the most common one (and you might not be growing that one).

Also, the breeder might decide to only start counting days at some point other than when flowering is initiated by the grower. Which should not be the case, IMHO, but...

IF the plant is sexually mature when the gardener chooses to initiate flowering by changing the light schedule from 18/6 to 12/12, and if no changes to the lighting in the garden occur... one can often get a pretty good estimate of the harvest date by carefully counting / keeping track of the number of days from that point until the stretch part of the flowering period ends. The flowering stretch lasts for the first 40% of the flowering period, meaning that when it ends, 60% of the flowering period remains.

Ergo, it's simple math. If the stretch is 40 days long, multiply 40 by 1.5, and you'll get 60 - 60 days remain in a 100-day flowering period. If the stretch lasts for 20 days, multiply 20 by 1.5, and you'll get 30 (50-day total flowering period).

Being simple math, the reverse is also true, of course. Which might not appear to be of great use - but it can be. Imagine having mother plants, and having worked with clones from one previously. If you kept good records, you'll know that you might (for example) expect one mother's clones to flower for 50 days. Simple math can be used to determine approximately how many days the next set of clones will stretch for; multiply 50 by .4 (40%), and you'll get 20 days.

Note that I stated this works for most strains. Some strains - mostly the "primordial" types that flower in successive waves might not necessarily follow this rule (if you keep waiting, it may end up producing another wave of flowers). If the plant has an autoflowering strain in its heritage, all bets are off. And, of course, the gardener's own preference plays a part. But, generally speaking, it works pretty good.

This is usually referred to as the "40:60 rule."

 

[InTheShed]

What will happen if I draw the branches out laterally and then halt that process and allow the branches to grow upwards?

Once the canopy is flat you can let them all grow up at the same rate to keep the auxins evenly distributed. However, if you get a leader (like the one on the right in the Wedding Cake pic, you should pull that one back in line.

If there's nowhere to tie it, then I would supercrop it toward the center if it won't block too much below it. For the record, I don't recommend supercropping autos.

I measured the lux for the photoperiod plants and it is sitting between 8000 and 11000 lux in various different spots.

That's about 20,000 lux too low. From the Royal Queen Seeds site as a general guide:

• Clones and seedlings: 5,000–7,000 lux
• Vegetative growth: 15,000–50,000 lux
• Flowering: 45,000–65,000 lux
• Maximum recommended amount of light: 75,000 lux

 

[Carmen Ray]

This thing is usually an estimate, sometimes overly optimistic, and occasionally... well, a strain with a shorter advertised flowering period might sell better . Plus, many strains have multiple phenotypes, and the breeder (or whoever writes his/her strain descriptions, which is not always the same person) might only be referring to the most common one (and you might not be growing that one).

Also, the breeder might decide to only start counting days at some point other than when flowering is initiated by the grower. Which should not be the case, IMHO, but...

IF the plant is sexually mature when the gardener chooses to initiate flowering by changing the light schedule from 18/6 to 12/12, and if no changes to the lighting in the garden occur... one can often get a pretty good estimate of the harvest date by carefully counting / keeping track of the number of days from that point until the stretch part of the flowering period ends. The flowering stretch lasts for the first 40% of the flowering period, meaning that when it ends, 60% of the flowering period remains.

Ergo, it's simple math. If the stretch is 40 days long, multiply 40 by 1.5, and you'll get 60 - 60 days remain in a 100-day flowering period. If the stretch lasts for 20 days, multiply 20 by 1.5, and you'll get 30 (50-day total flowering period).

Being simple math, the reverse is also true, of course. Which might not appear to be of great use - but it can be. Imagine having mother plants, and having worked with clones from one previously. If you kept good records, you'll know that you might (for example) expect one mother's clones to flower for 50 days. Simple math can be used to determine approximately how many days the next set of clones will stretch for; multiply 50 by .4 (40%), and you'll get 20 days.

Note that I stated this works for most strains. Some strains - mostly the "primordial" types that flower in successive waves might not necessarily follow this rule (if you keep waiting, it may end up producing another wave of flowers). If the plant has an autoflowering strain in its heritage, all bets are off. And, of course, the gardener's own preference plays a part. But, generally speaking, it works pretty good.

This is usually referred to as the "40:60 rule."

Thank you TS, it's the first time I am learning about the 40:60 Rule
#bookmarked

 

[Carmen Ray]

If there's nowhere to tie it, then I would supercrop it toward the center if it won't block too much below it.

Eek! I have managed to secure it with the green garden wire for now but may have to supercrop it (would rather not if possible). I have never done it before...

For the record, I don't recommend supercropping autos.

Noted thank you, now to commit it to memory

That's about 20,000 lux too low

Oh, woops. That kinda upsets the apple cart. If I raise them onto books I won't be able to turn them or move them again until after the Lavender Best is done. Damn, unless I move them onto the table now and put the Lavender Best on books on the bench... I am doubting that there is enough light or space for three plants. Have I bitten off more than I can chew?

 

[InTheShed]

I'm not sure I understand why you would be able to raise them but not rotate them, particularly since they're barely wider than the saucers they're in.

 

[Carmen Ray]

I have fiddled with the light and moved the plants but it appears that there is not enough footprint for three plants. I worry I won't get two properly lit by this light.

I'm not sure I understand why you would be able to raise them but not rotate them, particularly since they're barely wider than the saucers they're in.

Please take a look at the physical space. There is no space to move in there. Also, the plants are hooked to the pot saucers so I can't spin the pots around without turning the whole saucer. I don't know if I have the strength. I will see what I can manage going forward. Right now my "canopies" are about one wine bottle wide each. There is no way I can fit two super-wide plants under the light. Do you see what I mean?

 

[InTheShed]

If the saucers are on books won't they be easier to turn? In terms of whether you have enough coverage for all the plants, the light meter will tell you that.

The flowering plant should definitely be your first priority light-wise.

 

[Carcass]

Hi, Carmen- I don't care for lifting heavy pots unless I absolutely have to, but I do rotate the plant 4 or 5 times a day, to insure that the plant gets even light coverage..
So, to rotate them without lifting anything, you might consider getting a couple of these swivel thingys:
(7 or 8 dollars at home depot)

My indoor plants always have one of these under them,-easier to rotate, and handy for training too.
They go under the drain pan, so everything rotates with little to no effort...

 

[Carmen Ray]

If the saucers are on books won't they be easier to turn? In terms of whether you have enough coverage for all the plants, the light meter will tell you that.

The flowering plant should definitely be your first priority light-wise.

I find that books collapse and slide around if moved about. These pots are too heavy for me to lift easily. I checked with the light meter while I was doing the fiddling and there is not enough light for three plants. Do you think I must switch the flowering plant with the front vegging one?

Hi, Carmen- I don't care for lifting heavy pots unless I absolutely have to, but I do rotate the plant 4 or 5 times a day, to insure that the plant gets even light coverage..
So, to rotate them without lifting anything, you might consider getting a couple of these swivel thingys:
(7 or 8 dollars at home depot)

My indoor plants always have one of these under them,-easier to rotate, and handy for training too.
They go under the drain pan, so everything rotates with little to no effort...

Thank you Carcass, that swivel thingy looks just the ticket. We don't have Home Depot here but we do have stores that specialize in diy. Do you happen to remember what they are called?

 

[InTheShed]

Do you think I must switch the flowering plant with the front vegging one?

The flowering one should be getting the highest lux, wherever that happens to land!

 

[Carcass]

. Do you happen to remember what they are called?

Either a Lazy Susan, or Turntable- amazon also has them.
Copy this to the search box on a- zon:

8 Inch Heavy Duty Rotating Swivel Stand- Lazy Susan with Steel Ball Bearings​

They're plastic, so they won't rust

 

[Carmen Ray]

The flowering one should be getting the highest lux, wherever that happens to land!

Thanks Shed, that's the spot! Ok I moved it back. I think I might have to move one of those photoperiod plants outside when the time comes. I suddenly feel overwhelmed. I dropped my auto, fortunately I had only just lifted her so she didn't have far to fall!

Either a Lazy Susan, or Turntable- amazon also has them.
Copy this to the search box on a- zon:

8 Inch Heavy Duty Rotating Swivel Stand- Lazy Susan with Steel Ball Bearings​

They're plastic, so they won't rust

Thanks Carcass, I will have a look! That would be a game changer for me.

 

[Carmen Ray]

@Carcass, would you mind taking a look to see if you think this would work or would it be too flimsy? From Amazon the shipping for the recommended one is $17,37 lol and the item is $16.99. I didn't find any local references to it. Takealot is our local version of the Zon.

 

[Carmen Ray]

@Carcass , or this one even? The review says it holds her granite centerpiece.

 

[TorturedSoul]

A significant percentage of the photons being produced by that thing are going through the window, and into the greater volume of space of the room, instead of hitting the leaves.

You will notice a measurable - and probably significant - improvement in that regard if you hang some sort of bright white panels around the light, to "box in" your little indoor garden. They need not be heavy, so you should be able to move the one that covers the window when light is coming in, so as to continue to have the benefit of both the sunlight and the LED device at the same time, when applicable.

The way I see it, you have to pay the same amount on your electricity bill each month to run that light, whether 57% of its light-energy output gets used by your plants... or 90% of it does.