You would be correct. There are mobile, semi-mobile and non-mobile elements. Some, like nitrogen are mobile so if there is not enough to go around the plant will take from the lowers and give it to the upper growth nodes. So, if you don't solve the problem by giving more N in this case, the plant will just start taking it form the next leaf in line.
Azi do you think I need to give them some N? I've been giving calmag but maybes I must give them a foliar spray with some kelp which has N in it?
Thank you. I snipped the brown calcium deficient lowers and I am pretty sure the N thing in the uppers became worse. Lesson learnt.
Thank you Deev, I see what you mean about the guides being somewhat generic and unreliable. Thank you for reminding me not to be hard on myself about the timing. I think by Wednesday next week I must have have the plants up-potted and in place, which gives them 10 days to veg before they go to natural light cycle... tight but hopefully enough.
Even if you are wrong, (and I don't think you are) leaving the funky leaves on till the plant discards them isn't going to hurt anything...might be a little ugly, but I've always said- they've got to get a bit ugly before they can get pretty...
I hope you're better at it than I am- I was going to drought one of my autos, but when the time came, I couldn't do it...it just didn't seem right...
....
That's interesting. I have just read someone else in another thread say similar, so it's good to know that may well be a factor. I've moved them again and hopefully they improve condition. Thank you Tra.
Ok, tomorrow will be a busy day. I will up-pot if they look up to it. Removing larf makes me nervous but I will give it a bash... and taking the branches off I will do. I am going to move the vegging plants down onto the bench and raise the light to move the Lavender Best up to the table. CK will have to go on books to meet the height of the Lavender Best. It should be doable. Thank you Shed.
Great... sorted... it's all organized in my head.
Yeah, I don't know if I will either...
Today I gave one of the brown leaves on the woody base of the Lavender Best a yank because she surely is past that, but it wasn't coming loose, so I left that too. They are her first leaves. It doesn't look nice, but hey. I hope the kelp extract might help with the vegging pair. Thank you Carcass.
No I don't think so. I don't spray the flowering ones, only the photoperiods once because their leaves are showing distress. The kelp extract doesn't smell. It's heavy perfume coming from the plants and their scents clash. I think they object to the lights going out every few hours because that is when I notice it more. I like the smell of the caramel king on its own... the other one is weird. I can't quite put my finger on it.
)
Hi Carcass, lol yes I am familiar with the challenge you and Mrs C have with the smells and I totally get itIf they're stinking more than usual, they might need more water- my plants stink about 3x worse (or better, depending how you look at it) when they need water.
And they start stinking long before the leaves start to droop, so they don't have to "look" thirsty for them to turn on the extra stink...
Since I have no carbon filter on the box, I'm very "in touch" with the smells they produce (as is Mrs.C.
Just a thought...
. I did give them water but can't remember if it was before or after lights out. I notice the smell more when lights are out so I think it stresses them, the off and on. I want to get your view on my grow space given that you have the practiced eye. I am worried that extending my canopies to pool noodles will make the plants too wide for the space. I up potted the Wedding Cake today and all of a sudden the space seemed to be inadequate for my plans. Especially since the Caramel King has at least a week left, possibly two, and the Lavender Best is two weeks behind her. I am wondering if they will fit. I have a fair amount of vertical space as I can raise the light. I can only raise the light when the autos are done though surely? What do you suggest I should do about noodles in the space and with the timing? Can I pull it off?
That is a possibility, looks like you've got about as much space under that light as I have in my box- what I used to do when I grew 2 plants in the box was to train them in a rectangular shape, instead of a square-
Hi Carcass, no worries and thank you for your responseHi, Carmen- Sorry it took so long to get back to you, busy day around here...
That is a possibility, looks like you've got about as much space under that light as I have in my box- what I used to do when I grew 2 plants in the box was to train them in a rectangular shape, instead of a square-
That way, they'll fit side by side under the light, and more of the plant will be in the "good light".
My plants would end up roughly 12" wide by 22" long, so it was a little tight, but they'd both fit in the box.
And, since your plants have those drain pans under them, you won't really need a noodle- you can just tie the branches down, and hook the tiedown to the edge of the pans, either with clips of some kind, or, the easy way, just bend the wire under the pot edge...of course, this will only work if you leave the pots in the drain pans all the time, as opposed to taking them out of the pans to dump the runoff out. -Turkey basters, or a dollar-store super soaker can be used to pull the water out of the pans, leaving the plant in place....
Another thing to consider might be putting some spacers (boxes, bricks,books, etc) under the photo plants to get them a bit closer to the light- It may just look that way in the pics, but they look like they could be about 8" closer to the light....
Autos are looking good!
I panicked a bit today and decided it was time for a premature harvest of the Caramel King. I can't operate in that small space with no wiggle room and the 20 L pots are too heavy for me to move around. I am filled with remorse when I see how immature the base of her buds are but I know that the reason was sound. More on that later.
For me my light closer while my plants are in veg cause droop. I am now 97% sure.Hi Carcass, no worries and thank you for your response
I will try to train the plants. I don't have a lot of confidence that I know what I am doing. The closeness of the nodes on the main branch have been bothering me for a while. What will happen with those tiny branches that are coming up in a tuft? I'm glad I can use the drain pan to clip tie downs rather than doing pool noodles this time.
I am using cloths to wick the run-off from the drain pans, it's much easier than moving pots about. Good suggestion!
I'm not sure about the light Carcass. It was @Trala who suggested I distance them a bit earlier in the week and their condition improved after I did, so I don't know about putting them that much closer at this stage. I think I'd like to observe them for a bit in their new pots after I up-pot the Bruce Banner (now that I have a spare drain pan and space)
I am pleased with the yield I must say. I thought there would be less!Thank you Tra. So far the color and perkiness of mine have improved since I distanced them further from the light. I also gave them the foliar feed and I've been giving them Calmag. They do seem happier I feel. I will share some pics once I have up-potted the Bruce Banner #2 but so far so good I think
Thanks ShedCongratulations on your first indoor harvest! From an inauspicious start to that finish is an excellent result. And don't beat yourself up on the green lower part of the flower. It might have never gotten the same color (lower on the plant, fewer growth hormones, less light). And even if it had gotten color if you waited, the tops might have been well past their prime at that point.
So I say
It's true, the plant was almost a solid mass of bud and there wasn't any way that the lower flower was getting any light. I took 111g of larf off the plant and 224g upper flower, so 50 % of the harvest weight was dense larf. Do you know if the trichomes on the lower flowers will potent or are they too green?
