fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Why you be F'in off?
Will these two plants yield a lb?
- Thread starter Hdinkleman
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Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
i was looking online and it really looks like mg definecy, which sounds right because im in coco and before last feeding was the first time i have given a small feeding of calmag. going to water in the next few days and when i do ill get better pictures up close of the leaf and i will also give a full cal mag dose.
also now that i have a good ph pen i can be confident i am at the correct ph too, both the cheapy pens i was using were off, one was .3 off on the high end the other was .4 off for the low end, which in hydro couldve caused a low availability of mg, but i think its just defiencient because there is no dolomite lime in my medium for one, and the other plant which i did amend with some lime and is receiving the same % of base nutes is not exhibiting the same symptoms
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
What water are you using? Calcium and Mag start at bottom not on new growth.
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- #65
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
using tap water i bubble for 48 hrs + to remove chlorine.
it is starting on lower growth yes, and the yellowing is on the newer growth, which it seems is indicative of mg defiency.
it does look like the mg def looking at the chart here
the yellowing is on the top growth, the weird spots and discolorations are on the lower growth.
plant pulling mg out of lower growth to try to bring it to the newer growth, but there isnt enough mg in the substrate anyways, i jist have been scared to give too much nutrients im realizing i havent been giving enough. i believe my plants are chronically underfed, i have only given a full dose of nutes 1 time ( last time i fed) and even then it was only a “small feeding” of calmag in the water i used
fanleaf
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. Usually tap water contains quite a bit of Calcium and Magnesium. Do you know what ppm levels you tap water is at? You certainly don't want a Mag deficiency when you start into flower, it will kill yields. Good thing you have time to take care of anything beforehand. Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of it to the mix and see if the issue stops. I gotta hit the bed man. ttul.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
If you're after yield Hinkleman consider looking into full hydro methods. I use NFT and even get autos at a pound without too much hassle. Growing in coco my record is about 4oz. It's infinitely easier to pull top yields in Dwc or NFT. autopots are also pretty hard to beat in terms of growth rates and are even easier to use on paper but never tried those tbh.
You've got the right idea with the training and lst, just need to get them bigger first mate. Keep at it though, you'll get there
You've got the right idea with the training and lst, just need to get them bigger first mate. Keep at it though, you'll get there
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- #68
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
my tap water is 120ppm
yes i am considering hydro when i get a new place and a bigger tent, even though i want alot of yield i only have so much space and have a feeling the hydro setup wpuld be a tad cumbersome in my current space/setup.
definitely want to do rwdc though, years ago in 2009 i did a couple grows with a rwdc system, i remeber how freaking huge the stem was conpared to the grows i have done in soil and soilless and i havent been able to get the same type of stem girth.
but that also could be because i was using HID 400 watt lights at the time too, a metal halide for veg and hps for flower back then.
part if the reason i picked led this time around was because of the heat from the hid lights, even now with the qb at full blast my temps are running at 80.9 F now so running high. hoping i can get a supplemental led light for flowering so i can turn down the qb and get my temps down when flowering starts
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- #69
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
i snapped a branch super cropping a few days ago, looks like its almost healed, waiting for the “knuckle” to develop.
supercropped two other branches today, and continuing to LST the plant so the branches reach the end of the pot
10 gallon smart pot holds alot of water, probably wont water again for at least 3 more days.
guess its a learning experience figuring out a good balance of enough nutes to keep her happy until the next watering.
supercropped two other branches today, and continuing to LST the plant so the branches reach the end of the pot
10 gallon smart pot holds alot of water, probably wont water again for at least 3 more days.
guess its a learning experience figuring out a good balance of enough nutes to keep her happy until the next watering.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Honestly mate there are zero down sides to hydro. If your running an rdwc or whatever, just leave the top up Res outside the tent.
Same with autopots or anything else actually. All methods now take up the same space as a pot.
Don't need as many plants with hydro iether. I almost filled a 1.5m X 1.5m tent with 1 plant after 7 weeks veg last year. Nearly shit myself and had to go buy more lights.
My very first grow was 2 autos in a 20L res. It went to shit for the first month while I sussed it, stunted em both for 2 weeks and still got 300g. Second grow i got double that from 1 auto in the same space. Using 2 cheap shit, Chinese 250w (actual) leds.
Im not bragging mate it's just the easiest way to explain how simple it is.
just get yourself some reliable genetics.
Use 500-600w per square metre. (Less for high end leds)
Get a decent hydro kit. I use the gt205 NFT. A 20L res that comes with all the neccesaries for £30. Only other thing you need is 4" rockwools and a pack of root riots. £10 for 24 of each from any good hydro store.
If you want to improve your yields then it's the easiest way to do it. No more wondering how much to feed them or when. Or what strength or what ph. The plants feed themselves and tell you how to adjust the res. Because your following the numbers you won't ever get any nute issues.
I don't pay too much attention to VPD (Google "VPD scale" if you don't know) but I keep it fairly in check, most of the time.
Don't sweat the small stuff so much. Just chill and keep em fairly happy. Learn the basics of plant translations and youll be growing with the best of them in no time.
Same with autopots or anything else actually. All methods now take up the same space as a pot.
Don't need as many plants with hydro iether. I almost filled a 1.5m X 1.5m tent with 1 plant after 7 weeks veg last year. Nearly shit myself and had to go buy more lights.
My very first grow was 2 autos in a 20L res. It went to shit for the first month while I sussed it, stunted em both for 2 weeks and still got 300g. Second grow i got double that from 1 auto in the same space. Using 2 cheap shit, Chinese 250w (actual) leds.
Im not bragging mate it's just the easiest way to explain how simple it is.
just get yourself some reliable genetics.
Use 500-600w per square metre. (Less for high end leds)
Get a decent hydro kit. I use the gt205 NFT. A 20L res that comes with all the neccesaries for £30. Only other thing you need is 4" rockwools and a pack of root riots. £10 for 24 of each from any good hydro store.
If you want to improve your yields then it's the easiest way to do it. No more wondering how much to feed them or when. Or what strength or what ph. The plants feed themselves and tell you how to adjust the res. Because your following the numbers you won't ever get any nute issues.
I don't pay too much attention to VPD (Google "VPD scale" if you don't know) but I keep it fairly in check, most of the time.
Don't sweat the small stuff so much. Just chill and keep em fairly happy. Learn the basics of plant translations and youll be growing with the best of them in no time.
While I am a huge fan of RDWC and have built multiple undercurrent systems myself, and have 2 more in the making, I must say I don’t agree with the statement that hydro has no downsides, the biggest one that comes to mind for me is root issues, if one plant gets root rot they all get root rot if they share the same res. There’s ways to combat this yes but it is something to keep in mind. Little bit of Clorox every other nute change helps tons. Keep your systems clean clean and most issues will stay at bay. I like piecing my systems together myself to control the quality and building them cheaper than buying from a hydro store or onlineHonestly mate there are zero down sides to hydro. If your running an rdwc or whatever, just leave the top up Res outside the tent.
Same with autopots or anything else actually. All methods now take up the same space as a pot.
Don't need as many plants with hydro iether. I almost filled a 1.5m X 1.5m tent with 1 plant after 7 weeks veg last year. Nearly shit myself and had to go buy more lights.
My very first grow was 2 autos in a 20L res. It went to shit for the first month while I sussed it, stunted em both for 2 weeks and still got 300g. Second grow i got double that from 1 auto in the same space. Using 2 cheap shit, Chinese 250w (actual) leds.
Im not bragging mate it's just the easiest way to explain how simple it is.
just get yourself some reliable genetics.
Use 500-600w per square metre. (Less for high end leds)
Get a decent hydro kit. I use the gt205 NFT. A 20L res that comes with all the neccesaries for £30. Only other thing you need is 4" rockwools and a pack of root riots. £10 for 24 of each from any good hydro store.
If you want to improve your yields then it's the easiest way to do it. No more wondering how much to feed them or when. Or what strength or what ph. The plants feed themselves and tell you how to adjust the res. Because your following the numbers you won't ever get any nute issues.
I don't pay too much attention to VPD (Google "VPD scale" if you don't know) but I keep it fairly in check, most of the time.
Don't sweat the small stuff so much. Just chill and keep em fairly happy. Learn the basics of plant translations and youll be growing with the best of them in no time.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
I
The solution (pun intended) is SM-90. I use it at 0.3 - 0.5ml/L depending on the res temp and can run the res at 27*C no problem. 29 and I start getting symptoms. Had it at 31 a few times but never for long enough to see if it causes any real damage. Usually 25-27 though.
SM90 also works as a root boost.
A natural pest deterrent.
A wetting agent, which basically means it helps things be absorbed, by the roots.
And providing you aren't using any living bacteria additives to the res, (i think hydroguard is the same thing but for bioactive res ) it will keep you 100% gunk free.
And once again , best of aIl.......
You get between 2000 & 3300 litres of perfectly safe hydro water for about £20.
These products should be used in ALL hydro methods. If it isn't soil then you need something to help everything mould together.
Root rot is a very common problem for many hydro growers mate.
The solution (pun intended) is SM-90. I use it at 0.3 - 0.5ml/L depending on the res temp and can run the res at 27*C no problem. 29 and I start getting symptoms. Had it at 31 a few times but never for long enough to see if it causes any real damage. Usually 25-27 though.
SM90 also works as a root boost.
A natural pest deterrent.
A wetting agent, which basically means it helps things be absorbed, by the roots.
And providing you aren't using any living bacteria additives to the res, (i think hydroguard is the same thing but for bioactive res ) it will keep you 100% gunk free.
And once again , best of aIl.......
You get between 2000 & 3300 litres of perfectly safe hydro water for about £20.
These products should be used in ALL hydro methods. If it isn't soil then you need something to help everything mould together.
My second time around doing DWC I had root rot issues but that was due to only being able to tend to things for one hour each week cause grow was off site from where I stayed, ever since I’ve been able to keep track of things everyday I’ve never had an issue. I like to keep my res temps between 66-68 degrees(f) and don’t need to add anything, above 70 is when I start to use Clorox at about the same strength your using the SM90, never heard of it but I’ll look into it
1969gtx
Well-Known Member
Can you even buy sm-90 any more? I thought they stopped selling it almost two years ago. I bought the last two qts the local hydro store had a few months ago. Stuff smells great!
Hdinkleman, plants are looking good, and nice job on the training. In the one pic, it did seem like you had some of that multi color green going on, like a mag issue.
Hdinkleman, plants are looking good, and nice job on the training. In the one pic, it did seem like you had some of that multi color green going on, like a mag issue.
Barney86
Well-Known Member
WHOOOAAHHH.... When then that happen? It seems to be gone from Amazon where I usually buy it.
Shit... off to investigate!!
Barney86
Well-Known Member
Bought it from Amazon 3 months ago but doesn't seem to be there now. UK btw
1969gtx
Well-Known Member
Seems like I read Oregon or Washington banned it from the approved chemical list for cannabis growing, so they stopped selling it.
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
I think your gonna run out of room. Youll wind up with a bunch of larf because youre tent isnt big enough
Barney86
Well-Known Member
That gets banned but what I use for ph up and down that react together and make a boiling acid is ok?yes, it was a bad day when I realised that one lol.
jblazen420
420 Member
lots of factors in there i say my opinion a qp.total and thats if u do everything rite but if u use hps or led or wutever so hard to say if u use nuetz co2 all that
