What is this problem

ive just found the ppm of my water in my area its 900ppm ive worked out what ppm ive been feeding through canna calculater its 1200 a little to high dont no if 100 ppm can cause the damage to leaves
 
agedmaster said:
also do u no where i can get a timer that do's minutes i only have 15 minute timers
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The item you are inquiring about i an Adjustable Recycling Timer which certain models include a photocell for day / night timing modes most which allow adjustment of the duty length of the powered on cycle and adjustment of duty cycle powered off periods before the cycle resets and repeats.

The model i have is discontinued, the CAP ART-DNe Adjustable Recycling Timer

420 Magazine sponsor Elevated Lighting Company has this item available Autopilot Advanced 24hr Recycling Timer



agedmaster said:
ive just found the ppm of my water in my area its 900ppm ive worked out what ppm ive been feeding through canna calculater its 1200 a little to high dont no if 100 ppm can cause the damage to leaves
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You can inquire with your local municipal water supplier for specific water quality information.

Nutrient burn is common enough among growers whenever light, heat, humidity and water quality conditions are altered as the plants usually lower their nutrient uptake and usage resulting in excessively high chemical fertilizer levels the plant is unable to moderate the effects from. The majority of plants with the exception of succulents have adapted to their originating environments without the ability to store large amounts of moisture reserves and and must constantly pump a water supply from their root systems to maintain cellular rigidity and function. Most plants can not simply say No' to whichever water supply they have access to if the supply increases in brackish salinity or turbidity.

The last photographs of your plants damaged leaves I am capable of seeing phosphorous and calcium deficiency with small amounts of either nutrient burn or too great total PPM nutrient solution strength exposure. Nutrient burn is first evident at the growing leaf tips as damage tips. Larger leaves which become hard, curl and die are caused by excessive high PPM nutrient exposure.

I suspected that your nutrient solution ppm were high, making it difficult for your plants to properly absorb the nutrients, water in ratio and your plants are currently using more water than nutrient in solution. I advise you lower your nutrient solution by adding 25% more ph adjusted water to the nutrient solution you are currently using.

During daylight exposure plants use photosynthesis and are in turn able to process nutrients, during night time plants absorb more water from nutrient mixtures increasing the ppm strength of the nutrient mixture. Plants may also leach back metabolites and excess nutrients back into the nutrient solution all resulting in altered pH with higher concentrations of unused elements in nutrient mixture imbalances necessitating the reservoir cleaning and replacement of the nutrient mixture.


Short term solutions are mixing either distilled or reverse osmosis water into your available water to lower the total PPM to acceptable ranges.

long term solutions are use of a water filter that is able to lower dissolved solids from your water supply or use of a reverse osmosis water filter and reservoir to supply your water requirements.
 
John C said:
The item you are inquiring about i an Adjustable Recycling Timer which certain models include a photocell for day / night timing modes most which allow adjustment of the duty length of the powered on cycle and adjustment of duty cycle powered off periods before the cycle resets and repeats.

The model i have is discontinued, the CAP ART-DNe Adjustable Recycling Timer

420 Magazine sponsor Elevated Lighting Company has this item available Autopilot Advanced 24hr Recycling Timer





You can inquire with your local municipal water supplier for specific water quality information.

Nutrient burn is common enough among growers whenever light, heat, humidity and water quality conditions are altered as the plants usually lower their nutrient uptake and usage resulting in excessively high chemical fertilizer levels the plant is unable to moderate the effects from. The majority of plants with the exception of succulents have adapted to their originating environments without the ability to store large amounts of moisture reserves and and must constantly pump a water supply from their root systems to maintain cellular rigidity and function. Most plants can not simply say No' to whichever water supply they have access to if the supply increases in brackish salinity or turbidity.

The last photographs of your plants damaged leaves I am capable of seeing phosphorous and calcium deficiency with small amounts of either nutrient burn or too great total PPM nutrient solution strength exposure. Nutrient burn is first evident at the growing leaf tips as damage tips. Larger leaves which become hard, curl and die are caused by excessive high PPM nutrient exposure.

I suspected that your nutrient solution ppm were high, making it difficult for your plants to properly absorb the nutrients, water in ratio and your plants are currently using more water than nutrient in solution. I advise you lower your nutrient solution by adding 25% more ph adjusted water to the nutrient solution you are currently using.

During daylight exposure plants use photosynthesis and are in turn able to process nutrients, during night time plants absorb more water from nutrient mixtures increasing the ppm strength of the nutrient mixture. Plants may also leach back metabolites and excess nutrients back into the nutrient solution all resulting in altered pH with higher concentrations of unused elements in nutrient mixture imbalances necessitating the reservoir cleaning and replacement of the nutrient mixture.


Short term solutions are mixing either distilled or reverse osmosis water into your available water to lower the total PPM to acceptable ranges.

long term solutions are use of a water filter that is able to lower dissolved solids from your water supply or use of a reverse osmosis water filter and reservoir to supply your water requirements.
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I went to my water supply website over past month it says ppm 0.9mg/l added feed to it 1.2mg/l. it was excess nutes i will fill res with 15 ltr feed then add 3.75ltr of water extra at the end. Thanks alot for the help i would have fed more if it wasnt for u much appreciated. Also should i cutout calmag. I must have been giving close to 1000 ppm early veg im lucky they survived it says max 800ppm my water is 900 alone atleast i no for next time i will get a water filter
 
agedmaster said:
hi again i cant get photos yet. ive checked runoff ph its spiked to 8.5 should i try doubling bloom feed. ive checked online it says there hungry or do u think i need to feed more than once per day. ive been hand feeding just before i turn lights on my root temps are 15c lights off
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Are you using same pH pen or meter to measure your ingoing nutrient feed and out comming run off?

If youre correctly pHing your feed to about 6pH and runoff spikes up to 8.5 - can’t figure out anything else than RW slab still naturally increasing your pH. Even the smallest ones like 1x1" ones needs be buffered for hours before use.
Yours like 4x4" cubes?

Also, forgot to ask this, but I assume youre having a separate reservoir and water pump routes the nutrient feed into drip halos or w/e is the end(?) And is the feed drain-to-waste? Or are you recycling the same feed over and over through the Rockwool?

Have you cleaned the reservoir, water pump, valves, tubes and watering rings? Incase theres some alkaline gunk causing pH to raise?

And that being said Its most likely not environmental issue or your nutrients.
We can help you better as you post the most recent pics of the foliage. You could also take a better pic of your whole setup - So I get better idea how you growing and how ur hydro system works.

@John C providing you quality information. Try following some of those steps until you post the newest pics
 
agedmaster said:
I went to my water supply website over past month it says ppm 0.9mg/l added feed to it 1.2mg/l. it was excess nutes i will fill res with 15 ltr feed then add 3.75ltr of water extra at the end. Thanks alot for the help i would have fed more if it wasnt for u much appreciated. Also should i cutout calmag. I must have been giving close to 1000 ppm early veg im lucky they survived it says max 800ppm my water is 900 alone atleast i no for next time i will get a water filter
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Are you using hard tap water? Whats your water EC or ppm reading before adding any nutes? Over 250-300ppm isn’t the besr option for hydro growing cannabis.

You said ”my water is alone 900” that can’t be ppm, or then the reading is so out of the whack.
 
Verbalist said:
Are you using hard tap water? Whats your water EC or ppm reading before adding any nutes? Over 250-300ppm isn’t the besr option for hydro growing cannabis.

You said ”my water is alone 900” that can’t be ppm, or then the reading is so out of the whack.
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My water isnt 900ppm its 216 i looked at wrong thing my bad nute mixture is 1000ppm like john said if i add little extra water it will dilute sollution slightly ive not been using res for feed ive been filling a 3ltr jug and hand watering that over 2 days between 4 of them plus i think it needs 2 feeds during flower to stop salt and nute buildup i wasnt adding water ppm to nute ppm so they have been over fed for 7 weeks
 
Verbalist said:
Are you using same pH pen or meter to measure your ingoing nutrient feed and out comming run off?

If youre correctly pHing your feed to about 6pH and runoff spikes up to 8.5 - can’t figure out anything else than RW slab still naturally increasing your pH. Even the smallest ones like 1x1" ones needs be buffered for hours before use.
Yours like 4x4" cubes?

Also, forgot to ask this, but I assume youre having a separate reservoir and water pump routes the nutrient feed into drip halos or w/e is the end(?) And is the feed drain-to-waste? Or are you recycling the same feed over and over through the Rockwool?

Have you cleaned the reservoir, water pump, valves, tubes and watering rings? Incase theres some alkaline gunk causing pH to raise?

And that being said Its most likely not environmental issue or your nutrients.
We can help you better as you post the most recent pics of the foliage. You could also take a better pic of your whole setup - So I get better idea how you growing and how ur hydro system works.

@John C providing you quality information. Try following some of those steps until you post the newest pics
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yes i use same ph pen i use 4x4 rockwool siting ontop of hydroton i do recycle water i use a pump that pumps water through tubes and out of drippers im trying to get a better phone for pics just waiting on someone coming back also i did soak rockwool for 24 hrs in a bucket of qaurter feed not ph'd though my water ph is 7.5 so i would have buffered my rw to that
 
have you got a link to the system you went with ?

one of the troubles with these things is the res can often be too small to support all the plants easily. one of my first hydro systems was an old spit and dribble air driven system that had much the same issues

Verbalist said:
And is the feed drain-to-waste? Or are you recycling the same feed over and over through the Rockwool?

Have you cleaned the reservoir, water pump, valves, tubes and watering rings? Incase theres some alkaline gunk causing pH to raise?
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it's a recirc system. there's a bunch of variations of them. the pots sit on top of a res and are pump fed from the top. pots are usually open to the res and the water drains back in by gravity. there are variations with pots closed to the res. some also resemble flood and drain but don't work quite the same.

he's got 4 plants going flower, and i'm guessing the system size is simply having trouble supporting them all. hence the ph creep.


edit : it's kind of a weird uk thing. most everyone over here ran from this approach ages ago. my system was literally from the 80's
 
bluter said:
have you got a link to the system you went with ?

one of the troubles with these things is the res can often be too small to support all the plants easily. one of my first hydro systems was an old spit and dribble air driven system that had much the same issues




it's a recirc system. there's a bunch of variations of them. the pots sit on top of a res and are pump fed from the top. pots are usually open to the res and the water drains back in by gravity. there are variations with pots closed to the res. some also resemble flood and drain but don't work quite the same.

he's got 4 plants going flower, and i'm guessing the system size is simply having trouble supporting them all. hence the ph creep.


edit : it's kind of a weird uk thing. most everyone over here ran from this approach ages ago. my system was literally from the 80's
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my res is the right size its 20ltr it says 1 gallon per plant u got the right system in mind it was part of a bundle its called bay6
 
agedmaster said:
should i cutout calmag. I must have been giving close to 1000 ppm early veg im lucky they survived it says max 800ppm my water is 900 alone at least i no for next time i will get a water filter
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In order to correct the plants growth issues we must first return the grow medium and nutrient solution back to a state of last known good health conditions.

Have you fully flushed the grow medium with pH adjusted water as suggested? In order to correct the problem you must first remove any substance from the rockwool and hydroton mediums which are storing elements that are largely the cause of the wild pH fluctuations.

The issues are that while you have supplied calcium and magnesium, calcium is either not usable by the plants below pH 5.6 or above 6.3 pH. When the reservoir pH rises above 6.3 the dissolved calcium precipitates out of the dissolved solution back into a suspended solid and is unusable being locked out from the usable nutrients. If you have added the nutrients in improper order the calcium and nutrients interact which precipitate back into a suspended solid are unusable being locked out from the usable nutrients.

Controlling pH fluctuations so that the pH does not rise to 6.3 or above and the nutrients are available to the plant will allow the plant to recover health and properly return to flower.

Any reservoir size 20 gallons and under can not properly buffer the pH of the reservoir solutions without constant adjustments. The larger the volume of a reservoir size allows the nutrient solution to maintain stability. The same is true of an aquarium where any aquarium volume bellow 40-50 gallons requires constant pH adjustment or water exchange. Usually with an aquarium it is not until the volume is 90 -120 gallons or above that the aquarium tank is able to buffer pH fluctuations.



agedmaster said:
atleast i no for next time i will get a water filter
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Be certain the water filter you select does not add sodium back into the water. Sodium is a trace mineral and more often harmful to plants.
 
agedmaster said:
my res is the right size its 20ltr it says 1 gallon per plant u got the right system in mind it was part of a bundle its called bay6
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is the res separate on your system or do your plant roots access it ?


edit : in hydro, the general rule of thumb is one gallon of moving water for every plant plus the res.

most pre built systems are overpriced, over hyped, over bought, and under perform. i'm guessing that system should run about 2 plants max.
 
bluter said:
is the res separate on your system or do your plant roots access it ?


edit : in hydro, the general rule of thumb is one gallon of moving water for every plant plus the res.

most pre built systems are overpriced, over hyped, over bought, and under perform. i'm guessing that system should run about 2 plants max.
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its separate there a slot each corner for a pot
 
i got it from my neighbour i ordered everything he needed vita link pro soil done it in pots only 2 though we left pump on constant i got a feed chart for vita link nutes i helped first 2 weeks then left him to it he ended up guessing nutes hes plants was perfectly healthy not a single problem also another friend got the same cuttings as me hes are in fabric pots and coco hes are fine so i no its not the plants
 
bluter said:
it's a recirc system.
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I see.
You circulate same water for 4 plants - everything goes over and over thru the unbuffered RW.
I’d guess over time RW slab gets ”buffered” when you’ve poured enough water/nutrients through it.
But as Roockwool wasn’t buffered and youve poured shit loads of CalMag through, I was thinking if Calcium gets ionized due the RW alkalinity and gets bound to Rockwool. …Which then could neutralize any acid elements/pH stabiliziers(?) :hmmmm:

agedmaster said:
for feed ive been filling a 3ltr jug
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When you mix your feed into the jug, you pH it and adjust it after right?
If the open jug keeps sittin somewhere over ~24h - do you re pH before irrigation? Open reservoir (nutrient solution getting touch with the oxygen) tends to increase pH.

I just can’t figure out anything else.
If it spikes up to 8.5 it must have something to do with some truly alkaline element.
Even the tap water here in Finland is buffered close to 8pH, to make sure pipes won’t freeze due the alkalinity but those buffers evaporate almost completely amongst with chlorine - as you let the water sit for +24hrs.
 
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