Don't worry about the gym sock smell Nismo. That smell profile has been known to pop up on a few strains. I've had it as well. It will likely change at some point. Probably to a cat piss smell. LOL!
<GAGS> If my house smelled like cat p!ss, my cats would receive an eviction notice. I'm hoping that Jack Herer doesn't end up smelling like that. And if it
tastes like that, well... I'll be giving most of it away, so it'll be someone else's problem, but still, lol.
Ruefully, I was told that regular seeds stay female if kept under 75°
There is some evidence that shows high temperatures negatively affect the female:male ratio. Dutch Passion published an article some years ago about things that the grower could do in order to favor (or, rather, environmental conditions that would favor) a higher percentage of female plants. I have never found proof to the contrary. That article has been reprinted "all over the Internet." Here is a page here that contains it; IIRC, the actual article starts about halfway down:
Increasing chances of female plants from standard seeds - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®
Pushing to 1 gpw would require strict controls with CO2 and sealed tent, mini split.
Plenty of growers have hit one gram per watt without supplemental CO₂. That certainly helps growth - especially if the grow room temperatures are higher than the accepted optimum (for grows that do not have supplemental CO₂), because it seems to allow growth (/flowering) to continue at higher temperatures and to utilize higher light levels (intensities). But, really, it depends on having one's grow dialed in. That
might mean that air conditioning and/or CO₂ supplementation is required, but not necessarily. Strain choice can be a major factor - some strains just aren't big producers (see below).
Knowing one's strain completely is very important - an equatorial strain is going to be tolerant of higher temperatures than a strain developed for(/at) a northerly latitude will, for example, and therefore the "sweet spot" in terms of temperature is very likely to be different. A lot of strains will
tolerate higher PPM levels and show no signs of issues, but will actually produce somewhat higher yields at a lower rate of feeding. And so on. I have actually seen a couple old farts (separately) manage consistently high g/w yields on shoestring budgets; they had both been growing more or less the same strains for decades, and spent
years changing just one thing at a time to see how that change affected things. Oh, and one grower always grew ONE strain only, the other grew ONE strain in the hottest part of the year and ONE other strain during the more reasonable times of the year. I think that had a lot to do with it, too - with only one strain, you are basically dealing with the same nutrient requirements. The guy that was growing one strain year-round used clones (basically the same plant), while the guy that alternated depending on temperature used clones except during the Summer months - and then he grew an IBL so there was little genetic variance amongst his plants even when he wasn't using clones.
Here is a journal thread from someone who <COUGH> is no longer a member. He grew in two-liter soda pop bottles, "hempy style." He didn't have the highest g/w numbers that I have ever seen, but I would certainly love to have comparable yields - IIRC, he was averaging around 1.1 g/w. He was growing SOG (obviously - two-liters, lol), but he was NOT adding supplemental CO₂. He grew a single strain, with little or no vegetative time after rooting his cuttings. I believe he was growing a strain called Snow White, but I won't swear to it.
Come SOG with Me - 112 Plant - 2 Liter - Hempy SOG
Although, as I mentioned, he is no longer a member here, I am glad that his journal remains. It was an interesting and educational read.
I mentioned above that strain choice has a lot to do with one's gram per watt figures, because some strains are not great producers in general. Some do not seem to yield much... Yes, the grower can grow those strains for an extended length of time in the vegetative period. However... When I see people discussing "grams per watt," what I think is that those people are primarily concerned with getting a high yield -
in a short time. What is the point (other than bragging rights, lol?) in getting a high g/w if you have to be in the vegetative phase for an extra month, I wonder? I like sativas. Okay, I LOVE sativas
. They often do not produce well. At one point, I had three separate (small) flowering spaces, each with a single 430-watt HPS (IDK why, lol - I guess I did not think about the "third light effect" at the time). They were SCROG setups, and I managed to have much success at ending up with almost perfectly-filled screens (from the screen up 12" to 14" was a mass of buds). And, yes, you can assume that luck played a big part
. Anyway... I remember sitting down and figuring up my "g/w" and thinking, "Wow, I really did well!" Then I thought about the extended vegetative times and the 12 to 16 week flowering periods, and I pretty much stopped thinking in terms of g/w
. Because, although my g/w numbers were excellent - and my grams per square foot numbers were outstanding - there was no doubt whatsoever that my
grams per total amount of electricity used figures were, well... poor. Was I sad, lol? Most excellent high-potency sativas with seemingly NO ceiling (the more I smoked, the higher I got right up to - and well past - the point where I wasn't even making sense to ME, where I mostly "talked" in giggles... and where I could take a hit, cough it out and think, "Well, I wasted that one, better have another hit," and then walk into a convenience store to get a soda and realize that I couldn't manage to count out the change to pay the lady and ended up having to dump an entire handful on the counter and say, "You'll have to do it, I can't think right now."). Nope, I wasn't sad at all. I think that "g/w" is mostly just useful for folks who are growing cannabis to sell it.
I'm just rambling. You have undoubtedly already come to that conclusion
.
Photosynthesis happens at rapid rate (keeps up with packets of electrons) free moving CO2 keeps plant from saturation on leafs.
Heat is a (large) factor, too. At ambient CO₂ levels, photosynthesis/growth/flower production stops at a certain temperature (varies by strain). With increased CO₂, that temperature point is raised.
rapid moving air gets ~700 ppm like results with room air
Err... No, it gets ~400 PPM CO₂ results, lol. It just gets it all the time instead of having a "results line" that keeps dipping and returning to ~400 PPM. A
constant level of ~700 PPM would support photosynthesis at higher temperatures and would allow the plants to make use of higher levels of light. It would be reasonable to expect that people who bother to set up grow rooms that are semi-sealed (so to speak), to provide for the cooling that such a room requires - as opposed to venting, which is much cheaper and (generally) simpler - and to deal with both the expense of purchasing one or more CO₂ tanks plus the setup to dispense it, plus the expense (and hassle) of regularly taking the tank(s) somewhere to be refilled... will also spend the money on a CO₂
monitoring device and, therefore, will not see CO₂ levels that constantly rise and fall but, instead,
maintain whatever higher level they wish to have. Err... Or something.
There are, of course, other factors at work here. A plant has to be able to transpire water. At a certain temperature, the leaves' stomata are going to close and transpiration stops. That will slow things down. Depending on the method of growing... If the grower uses a nutrient reservoir and that reservoir is located in the grow room, then it will
also be subjected to higher temperatures, which will tend to equate with lower levels of dissolved O₂ in general (it can - and should - be constantly refreshed, but this can also cause elevated reservoir temperatures, depending on how it is done). If you get the DO levels up high enough... the ability of the plants to survive in temperatures that would see ME wilt is amazing, lol. But still, the reservoir should be kept cool. In "money is no object" setups, especially where supplemental CO₂ is used, reservoir chillers are fairly common. One can make a chiller from an air conditioner, but it may not be the best (in terms of efficiency and possibility of reservoir contamination). I have seen elaborate homemade water-to-water chiller setups where water was cooled, then pumped through the reservoir in pipes so that there was ZERO chance of cross-contamination - but at that point, you've just spent more time and money than it's really worth and probably should have just bought a chiller, lol.
Rambling again (still)...
LED's do not qualify for gpw calculation.
Ahem, lol. The
ONLY light that should not count for g/w calculations (assuming that one is concerned with such things in the first place) is one that someone else is paying the electric bill for.
Mars II 400 pulls like 180 watts but (claims) ~400 watts equivalent (not that discussion now)
Yeah, and if you care to look on the average 23-watt CFL bulb, it probably states "100-watt
equivalent," lol. <SHRUGS> Do you suppose the folks that are using those are counting up the number of 23-watt CFLs they are using, then thinking, "Let's see, that's ten 23-watt CFLs, so
equivalent to 1,000 watts. Now my grams per watt figure would be...?" LMFAO.
Watts are watts. "
Equivalent" is simply marketing-speak for "buy this light, now!!!"
What any light is equivalent to is... itself.
Now MARS II 400 yield should be calculated by 1000 watts, not 400 and really, not actual wall pull.
Respectfully, that makes no sense. It consumes ~174-177 watts. The ONLY thing that prevents me from stating, "You show me a
documented cannabis grow where the grower gets ~1,000 grams of well-trimmed bud in a simple start-to-finish grow (IOW, no perpetual where plants are constantly being replaced) in a grow space that
only has a single Mars II 400 as the sole light within the walls of that grow and I will happily eat that Mars II 400, and without salt," lol, is that I am perfectly willing to concede the
possibility that, somewhere in the universe, there might be a being that is capable of breeding horses that speak English, creating perpetual energy machines that consume no fuel whatsoever... and harvesting ~1,000 watts of pure bud from ~175 watts of electricity. But I find the possibility to be exceedingly remote. Even the company that manufactures/sells it only states, "The Mars 400 can easily replace a
250W HPS or HID traditional grow light." If a grower can consistently pull ~250-gram yields from under one, that makes it a highly efficient light. But it does
not make it a 250-watt light.
mars hydro led grow light-mars II 4
I believe the reason to even look at GPW is to get an idea of yield/cost. If that's what you're looking at, IMHO, you need to look at your actual yield and the actual power draw from the wall which equates to your true cost, regardless of what the light manufacturer tells you.
Right on, brother!
Additionally, I would suggest (as others have in the past and will in the future) that if that is the case, that one should consider the gross number of kWh used, start to finish as well.
As far as PAR, lumens, spectrum, etc., those speak to the quality of the light
<DING> We have a winner
.
which should be reflected in your yield#.
As should every other factor in the grow.
Again, unless one is growing solely for profit (and in some cases even then), there are other things that are AT LEAST as important as gross yield numbers. Taste, aroma, potency, length of effect,
type of effect... Liklihood of producing hermaphrodites... For some, the length of the flowering period seems to be of high importance. Others cannot stand plants that grow really tall - or simply do not have the room to grow them - and/or sprawl all over the place. Et cetera.
As far as one's lighting goes... I will admit that the cost to purchase it/them is something that should be a consideration.
However... LED grow light panels are not "throwaway items" (at least they're not supposed to be
), in that the purchase is spread out - amortized - over several (hopefully,
many) grows. It's like the tools/materials that I use in one of the types of work that I do. Some of them get wholly consumed and/or used to the point at which they are no longer usable during one job - I add the cost of such things to each and every job (in which I use them). Others last several or many jobs, and those things I spread the cost out in such a way that I bill each customer (or the person that I am working for, if I am not working for myself) a percentage of the replacement cost.
Unlike the LED panel itself, the amount of electricity that it consumes during the period of one grow... gets wholly consumed during that one grow and
must be paid for each time.
Why would you want to penalize LED's for being (possibly!) more cost efficient?
I don't see it as penalizing LED panels. To me, it is simply an error in logic. Because a watt is a watt. I have to pay the same whether that watt is consumed by an LED panel, a HPS bulb, or my toaster (lol). Even the so-called "smart" meters are not
that smart
.