I've always used ca-mag+ by Botanicare but if I had to switch for some reason I would just compare the labels to check the differences in strengths and dose accordingly.
Volksball's First Grow: White Widow Feminized Grow Journal 2018
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- #562
volksball
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Right. Thanks. I don't have any issues with what I've chosen, so I don't have a great reason for the change, except for impatience. I think it makes sense to wait and get what I know to work rather than experiment with dosages now. I'd hate to be working out a problem that i dont need now.
Mos def!
High Wally
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I use Calimagic works very well at 5mL per gallon.
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volksball
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So that's 1 tsp per gallon?
1.01442 
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volksball
Well-Known Member
Ha. I should have known...1.01442
High Wally
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1 teaspoon = 4.95mL
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- #569
volksball
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I may run it on the next grow. I'm working a delicate balance here. Ha. They showed a bit of light or heat damage the other day where we couldn't completely rule out a Ca deficiency. Nothing further spread since then, but I wonder if me upping the dose of base nutes caused Ca lockout with the much increased N. I read high N locks out Ca. I regained that balance again and fear tipping it again. Thx!
I'm still of the opinion that the intensity of your light is what created the damage to your leaves, and I'm still of the opinion that lowering that intensity is the reason it's not spreading. Did we ever get a white light pic to see the damage?
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volksball
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I'm with you. I really don't think it was a Ca deficiency, but it lingers in my head as a possibility. I think you're right, though, as soon as the lights moved up and intensity dimmed, it stopped spreading.
I'm not sure how to get a white pic without waking them up early or getting a shot after lights out. I guess a few mins before wake or after bed doesn't hurt so bad?
When the lights go off take a pic with the flash on the phone.
I hope you don't mind me saying this, but I feel like I can tell how much you want to run that HPS at full power. There's a hesitancy in your posts to let dialing it back be the answer. But based on what Preston grew in his big room with 1200 watts at probably 6' off the ground, I think your plants will be happier and more productive with less light in that tent.
I hope you don't mind me saying this, but I feel like I can tell how much you want to run that HPS at full power. There's a hesitancy in your posts to let dialing it back be the answer. But based on what Preston grew in his big room with 1200 watts at probably 6' off the ground, I think your plants will be happier and more productive with less light in that tent.
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volksball
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Thanks for saying that, because you're right and maybe I needed some confirmation of it. When buying equipment, you read stats and requirements and go with what the majority writes. So I did. Not regretful of the purchase because if ever I want to tent up, I'll have the light to do it. I just want to use what I have, if I can. You guys have been good to throw evidence my way that proves that less than the 'recommended' amounts can do the job. It's hard not to get stuck on yeilds, so as a first time grower, you lean to more is better when thinking lights. Or at least that what you're told.
I still wonder about ever having to drop down to 500w and how that'll affect a grow this wide. Again, reluctance. Ha.
The spread of the light won't be affected by the drop in wattage, but ideally you want (but can't get because of height restrictions) more distance from the plants and higher wattage. Because there will be drop off at the edges regardless of wattage.
What about the metal window screen idea and higher wattage? If you put it so it only shaded the middle of the coverage, the edges would be getting higher lux than they would at 750 with no shading, and it might be creating a more even coverage lux-wise across the entire canopy with no burn.
Did I explain that well?
What about the metal window screen idea and higher wattage? If you put it so it only shaded the middle of the coverage, the edges would be getting higher lux than they would at 750 with no shading, and it might be creating a more even coverage lux-wise across the entire canopy with no burn.
Did I explain that well?
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volksball
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You did. Thanks. My wonder there is how do you execute that? Doesn't the window screen shade eat up alot of the lux? So the edges would likely get more lux? Without a lux meter, how could I measure the coverage to know how even it is?
Well...ya can't! Which is why I decided to buy one. The good ones are about $30 with the sensor on a coiled cord. The ones with a fixed sensor are about $20. This is the one I got: Dr.Meter LX1330B.
The window screen will knock the lux down but the size of the gaps and the gauge of the wire will determine by how much. But with it you could turn the light back up to 1000w, prevent the burn, and increase the lux at the margins all at the same time.
The window screen will knock the lux down but the size of the gaps and the gauge of the wire will determine by how much. But with it you could turn the light back up to 1000w, prevent the burn, and increase the lux at the margins all at the same time.
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volksball
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Its a great idea. It could save and maximize things. And do you hang the screen from the light? How low, and what gauge? Is there a chart that tells you this stuff? That was sarcasm.
LOL! No idea how to hang it...wire looped over the housing? I'd get that lux meter because it will help with this project and growing in general. You can find your hot spots before the leaves show any damage.
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- #579
volksball
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That's a great idea. To to Amazon I go. I'll have a look at the one you recommended. $30 is less than I saw. Some, like everything, had a $100+ bracket which makes me wonder what you're getting for $30. So you obviously trust yours?
PPFD meters run over $100 but a lux meter is good for what we want here. And...since you're running HPS, you can use an online calculator to get your PPFD from your lux. Difficult to do with blurple but not fixed spectrum lights like HPS, QBs, or strips.