Unforgiven's - Picture-A-Day - Barney's Critical Kush - DWC

yep that's kinda where i'm at. cause I am seeing the growth happen, so I know she is healthy.

hehehe had a weird friggin dream last night. well, nightmare.
in all this stall, I decide to do some further exploratory work in the hydroton. carefully picking it out, piece by piece so as not to damage the plant. I get to the bottom, and theres this really cool near perfect spiderweb of roots sitting flat on the bottom of the pot. and i'm thinking wtf?? why aren't the roots going through the net?? so I lift the net lid up, look under like I do now daily, lol, and theres no friggin net at the bottom of my net pot, just solid plastic!!! net sides but not the bottom. that's why the freakin stall!! it's gotta work out the sides only.

woke my sorry ass up I tell ya.

and yep, I even went and double checked the pot. lol

have fun eh


My NYC Diesel was slow at the beginning also... It looks good . Be patient grasshopper..
 
so we made it to day 22 and we are still alive and kicking. I see the third node starting, so exciting times are coming.

the stats: T: 72.6....RH: 45....PH: 7.2....REST: 21.8....PPM: 410... adjusted PH: 6.1 res will get an ice bottle.

annnd the pic....
20160802_204913.jpg



hey no pain, thanks for looking out here eh.
yeah, my first dwc, and first time with this strain too. so plenty of unknown variables.
no rockwool in the dwc. I don't have any ph down atm. dunno when im going to the city to be able to get any either. so I will make do as I can with the vinegar.


have fun eh

No problem Unforgiven. I remember when I first started with hydro 20 years ago . Well we can all use a useful eye outside the box ;) . She still looking good . But yeah when you get a chance pick up some ph down for sure and get her stable . What's the ph of your water before you add your nutes and are they liquid or crystal ?
 
thanks bud,

that's exactly right eh. looking in from outside you always have a better view, not biased like the grower themselves, if they let pride step in the way. or like me being a cheap sob using vinegar, lol.

ok so ph of tap here is 7.5-7.9. that's what I start with. couple tsp of vinegar drops it to 5.8. vinegar may be less stable than ph- but it is readily available and cheap like borscht.

as for the nutes, during veg it's all liquid. atm during bloom there are some crystals to mix in. they have them in liquid now, so I will be switching those out as I need em. probably will do it regardless for the dwc. my soil I'm not worried tho.

update coming soon.

have fun eh
 
quick lil update here...

all is well, she grows, she grows.

the stats: T: 75.5....RH: 51....PH: 7.2....REST: 18.5....PPM: 509.....PH adjusted to 6.1

annnnd the pic....

20160803_191339.jpg


like I said....

she grows...

have fun eh
 
jeeez before ya know it, i'm gonna have to pull the camera back to take a pic. lmfao
 
thanks bud,

that's exactly right eh. looking in from outside you always have a better view, not biased like the grower themselves, if they let pride step in the way. or like me being a cheap sob using vinegar, lol.

ok so ph of tap here is 7.5-7.9. that's what I start with. couple tsp of vinegar drops it to 5.8. vinegar may be less stable than ph- but it is readily available and cheap like borscht.

as for the nutes, during veg it's all liquid. atm during bloom there are some crystals to mix in. they have them in liquid now, so I will be switching those out as I need em. probably will do it regardless for the dwc. my soil I'm not worried tho.

update coming soon.

have fun eh

Yes sir , pride prevents people from finding out all kinds of stuff. Lol

Cheap you say heh .. Lol ph down isn't that expensive .

Your water is on the alkaline side that's for sure . What do your nutes drop the ph too before you add the vinegar ?

My nutes are all liquid and tend to drop my ph 1.0 ( depending on ppm used ). Like now in close running around 900 I really don't have to adjust the ph after I add the nutes .

She is getting bigger :) .
 
She grows well:cheertwo:
quick lil update here...

all is well, she grows, she grows.

the stats: T: 75.5....RH: 51....PH: 7.2....REST: 18.5....PPM: 509.....PH adjusted to 6.1

annnnd the pic....

20160803_191339.jpg


like I said....

she grows...

have fun eh
 
hey un. I just looked at your temps an that's when I began to have root problems
20160628_125708.jpg

20160628_125703.jpg


with that high of a temp you could use hydro guard or shield , or even great white (not together because one is fungi an the other is beneficial batearia)
I recently purchased botanicares down and I'm thurally happy with how it is performing in there. with that temp you bay have to change water every day (I doubt you want to do) or try an get some sort of chiller (water bottles filled frozen and drop em in there I had to do.)
I have these running outside the room now
20160803_234553.jpg


I got slime in the cloner because it was to hot, but good thing I change water every day an no slime.
any ways I hope this helps those roots.
 
thanks for stopping in folks.

just gonna make some notes here I copied in my search for truth on tds meters and such.

this may end up being a long boring messed up post of my finds on the subject, but hey its info I need lol.

"I was trying to figure out why the pH of my solution drifted upwards over a day or two, even when it was just sitting there and not recirculating. As an experiment, I took a glass ball quart jar, and filled it with water adjusted to pH of 5.5. I put a ceramic air stone in it and left it run for two days. After the two days, the pH had risen to 6.5.

I read on another web site that CO2 and carbonates (i.e. hard water) may cause this, I believe in two different ways:

1) When you add an acid to water to lower the pH, and the water has carbonates (a form of water hardness?) in it , the acid combines with the carbonates to form free carbon dioxide and water. ( HCO3 (carbonates) + H (acid) = CO2 + H2O)

The free carbon dioxide (CO2) then reacts with water to form carbonic acid, further lowering the pH: CO2 + H2O = H2CO3 (carbonic acid)

The problem is that higher levels of CO2 cannot be maintained in the water, and as that CO2 leaves the water over time as a gas, there is less carbonic acid and the same amount of carbonates available, and thus the pH drifts upward.

2) Your water right out of the ground or water supply may already have a higher content of CO2 in it from the limestone aquifer, potentially decreasing your pH initially but increasing over time as the CO2 off-gases.

I suspect the air stones we use in hydroponics just makes the CO2 off-gas faster.

Does this sound right, do I understand this correctly, or, am I missing something?

I suspect that it would be good (if possible) in such a situation, to have a larger reservoir of water on hand that is aerated for a few days prior to use, in order to stabilize the pH a bit more prior to adding nutrients and pH down."



"The debate over EC and TDS has been an ongoing issue for a long time. These two measurements are used to determine the strength of hydroponic solution. Although they are widely used they should only be used as a guideline and you should always follow mixing instructions on the label of you nutrient.
EC stands for Electrical Conductivity and is measured in mS/cm or millisiemens per centimeter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids and is measured in PPM or parts per million. TDS is acquired by taking the EC value and performing a calculation to determine the TDS value. Because TDS is actually a calculation it is really only a guess at what the nutrient concentration is. On top of that, there are three different conversion factors to determine TDS and different manufacturers use different conversion factors. In other words you could test the same solution with two different meters and get two totally different readings. But the EC is read the same by all meters the only difference is the conversion factor.

Some additional information for the geeks like us

First of all lets talk about the differences and similarities between EC and TDS. We all know that they are both a measure of the amount of dissolved solids in your nutrient solution. This measurement is used by growers to get an idea of how much nutrient is present in the solution. By maintaining the correct level of nutrients in the solution your plants will achieve maximum results. This all sounds very important but there are some major differences between the different meter manufacturers. Some of you may have noticed that some calibration solutions that are marked to read at a certain TDS may actually read different from meter to meter. This is where the problem begins.
Some of you may have not even heard of EC and others may have heard of it but do not even know what it is. Unfortunately many growers in the United States have become very accustomed to using the TDS scale while in most other countries, including Europe, they don't use anything but EC. The fact is that TDS is actually a result of a calculation from EC. The problem is lack of consistency among manufacturers when it comes to conversion factors. This is where it may get a little confusing. Most meter manufacturers in the hydroponics industry use one of two conversions. There is the 442 conversion (40% sodium sulfate, 40% sodium bicarbonate, and 20% sodium chloride) which some say is the closest thing to a hydroponic solution. The 442 conversion is approximately 700 x EC in millisiemens (mS). Then there is the NaCl conversion (sodium chloride) which others say is the closest thing to a hydroponic solution. The NaCl conversion is approximately 500 x EC in millisiemens (mS). You can see where the confusion comes from because the same solution will read 2100 ppm on one meter and it will read 1500 ppm on the other. That is a difference of 600 ppm which as many of you know could be devastating. Both meters are functioning correctly they are just calculating the TDS using a different formula. So, if you do not calibrate your meter using the correct calibration solution your meter could give you a very inaccurate reading.
The solution is simple, use EC. With EC, no conversion is required so all meters will read the same regardless of the manufacturer."


looks like my meter calibrates to the NaCl scale of ppm


that's a start.

oh and p.s. if any of you wrote this stuff I am finding, I am not claiming it as mine. merely using it to inform myself. which, if you didn't wish to inform people, you shouldn't have typed crap up on the internet.

thank you,

and have fun eh
 
thanks mooshu. good info there.

I remember seeing those root pics, and the after pics which look awesome, but didn't catch your fix til now.
 
yea I removed the stone all together because it kept fluctuating my ph. but that was even on only water not a drop of nutrient. apariently there are other factors that come into play. others have stated that the lava tone on the rock is subsequently higher in ph an if you don't "pre soke" it your penalizing your self in the long run but to each his own. the internet is filled with a bunch of garbage so are some of the people but maybe we can find the good ones and just let it be. I doubt it.
 
sorry more notes lol

Note: HM Digital products are calibrated with a 342 PPM NaCl or 1413 µS solution. This is suitable for most applications. However, if you are measuring samples that are consistently over 1000 PPM, it is recommended to recalibrate the meter for that specific application. TDS meters are more accurate when calibrated at levels that are as close as possible to the sample being tested (such as for hydroponics, aquaculture, tinting and dying or brackish water). HM Digital sells NaCl calibration solution at 342 PPM and 1000 PPM. Calibration solutions at signifcantly higher levels are commercially available.
 
yea but didn't you buy yours brand new or is yours old?

oh and p.s. if any of you wrote this stuff I am finding, I am not claiming it as mine. merely using it to inform myself. which, if you didn't wish to inform people, you shouldn't have typed up on the internet.

the problem is that's like telling them not to read it
it is good though

problem is people get offended if you say words like catpiss, etc. let alone someone in there right mind would go an say something and find it even more offencive

I just tell em to shuv it if they write stupid crap on there for head but what am i
 
I believe you need to control the temperature of your res to increase growth. Smaller hydro grows suffer from root rot due to high res temperature. Frozen bottled water in res should help stable temperature. That's why I asked you to check root ball but since I'm a soil guy it did not click about high res Temps.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
 
exactly.....what the others did not notice, was that I already put an ice bottle in, reducing my temps from the 20-22 range down to 18.5c which is 65.3 f.

good eye Jayne.

18.5 isn't hot for a res temp. Maybe I'm reading your post wrong?


and thanks to ALL for help and advice.

yes mooshu my meters are brand new.

and yep millertim you can see I added ice already. thus far its not bad putting in a 1 liter frozen bottle at lights on. stayed cool through the period yesterday, but will check throughout regardless.

thanks again all,

have fun eh
 
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