Un-Lucky Queen 12/12 Hempy

irishboy said:
I am shocked AN hasn't offered you money to stop making them look bad:rofl::rofl:

I ve seen many side x sides of friends doing GH vs AN and GH won every time for less money.
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Yep. A friend and mentor, who owns a hydro store in town also uses GH. He is selling AN at his store and did a run with it:

Sensi Grow A,B
Connoisseur A,B
Big Bud
Bud Factor X
and a few others.

He has been growing the same strains for 5 or 6 years.....he has it dialed in as much as it can be....and the GH 3 part beat the AN and less than half the cost, and with much less hassle.
 
DocBud,
Apparently you've missed Big Mikes $1,000,000.00 challenge. "NOBODY" can outgrow my product! Checkout GrowersUnderground.com. Other than the fact the guys a blotted ass he's also the owner of "AN".
BTW it's not chorotic but chlorotic/chlorosis. Ya had me looking for something that doesn't exist.
In botany, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white.
Chlorosis - iron deficiency anemia in young women; characterized by weakness and menstrual disturbances and a green color to the skin.
So let's see now plants turn pale and women turn green.??
 
Old Goat said:
DocBud,
Apparently you've missed Big Mikes $1,000,000.00 challenge. "NOBODY" can outgrow my product! Checkout GrowersUnderground.com. Other than the fact the guys a blotted ass he's also the owner of "AN".
BTW it's not chorotic but chlorotic/chlorosis. Ya had me looking for something that doesn't exist.
In botany, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white.
Chlorosis - iron deficiency anemia in young women; characterized by weakness and menstrual disturbances and a green color to the skin.
So let's see now plants turn pale and women turn green.??
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thanks for the clarification. Yes, as you point out, I was dealing with an issue of chlorosis.....and it was due to a zinc deficiency.

As far as the 1,000,000.00 award....I'm not sure that's a legitimate offer. If it is, I'll become a millionaire on my next grow. The AN is underperforming, big time.
 
So Doc, from what I can tell the following TR ferts are listed as the following:

Osmocote Plus: 15-9-12
Dynamite Flower&Veg: 15-15-15
Dynamite All purpose: 18-6-8
Dynamite Mater Magic: 5-5-9

Seems like Osmocote is the best balanced for us, yes? I was thinking about trying Mater Magic, because it only lasts 3 months, but 5 seems awful low for the Nitrogen. Opinions? :reading420magazine:
 
HermitCrab said:
So Doc, from what I can tell the following TR ferts are listed as the following:

Osmocote Plus: 15-9-12
Dynamite Flower&Veg: 15-15-15
Dynamite All purpose: 18-6-8
Dynamite Mater Magic: 5-5-9

Seems like Osmocote is the best balanced for us, yes? I was thinking about trying Mater Magic, because it only lasts 3 months, but 5 seems awful low for the Nitrogen. Opinions? :reading420magazine:
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Well, dynamite has other products too, but you're right, the Osmocote is the best balanced. It also has all the micronutes. But I think Dynamite 15-15-15 would also work very well.

As far as the fert only lasting 3 months, I have it on good authority that as long as the plants aren't overfed, there is no need to flush, just trim and cure.

So, give it a try?

If you decide to use Osmocote, I'd just caution you to be ready to give a little zinc supplement. One of my plants had a deficiency. It might just be the plant....or it could be the Osmo.....but be ready just in case.

I can say with certainty that using these CRF's is just too damn easy, and as everyone can see, they work VERY well.
 
DocBud. All i can say, is awesome!
THANK you for doing this journal. Great looking plants. Extremely detailed. I am so glad i have some time left to follow this.
Question for you that I may have missed earlier, but how close are you following the doses listed on the product? I mean, are you feeding at full strength? slightly under? slightly over?
+reps for this journal. subscribed.
 
Tunes420 said:
:bravo: Looking super as always brother grower....I use GH and have super results...Also used fox farms with super results but GH is much cheaper :)
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You should try this Osmocote, Tunes!

mesrone. said:
DocBud. All i can say, is awesome!
THANK you for doing this journal. Great looking plants. Extremely detailed. I am so glad i have some time left to follow this.
Question for you that I may have missed earlier, but how close are you following the doses listed on the product? I mean, are you feeding at full strength? slightly under? slightly over?
+reps for this journal. subscribed.
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Thanks Mesrone!

with the Osmocote, I didnt' follow the directions too closely, because I use this product in the "other" garden. I just grabbed a handful for each pot.

I'm being very careful with the AN, mixing it according to the doses on the product, feeding at about 800 ppm. The AN plants are healthy, and they are starting to fill out. Normally, I'd be happy with them.

But they are behind the osmocote plants in every way.

If I fed them more, they'd be worse off....they already have a bit of leaf curl and slightly burnt tips....they're maxed out.

While the Osmocote is working fine in the hempy buckets, the soil plants are greener, denser buds, and show more frosting. There's still a few more weeks, so that could change.
 
I am seeing the same results. Osmocote works better with soil. It makes sense, they were probably designed for use in soil. Hydro cannabis prills are needed.
 
slimm said:
I am seeing the same results. Osmocote works better with soil. It makes sense, they were probably designed for use in soil. Hydro cannabis prills are needed.
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Well, look no further than Dynamite for hydro:

Description

* A controlled-release fertilizer with blends for warm, mild & cool climates. Keeps working in soil temps up to 77 degrees F.

* In addition to N-P-K, contains all the micro nutrients (boron, copper...) necessary for healthy plants. Lasts 9 Months.

* The coating agent that controls the fertilizer was developed for Japanese rice paddies and is unaffected by excess water.

* This polymer resin shell biodegrades completely. You won't have empty shells in your soil for years to come.

* Available in formulas for Flowering and Fruiting Plants, Foliage Plants and Ailing Plants.

* Suggested Retail: $4.97 / 1 lb. or $8.99 / 2 lb.
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These Dynamite prills are still designed for soil - rice paddies are soil and water environments. I believe there is something in the soil, not provided by the prills that makes the difference. I have some theories and am planning some experiments to test them. I need a decent microscope though.
 
slimm said:
These Dynamite prills are still designed for soil - rice paddies are soil and water environments. I believe there is something in the soil, not provided by the prills that makes the difference. I have some theories and am planning some experiments to test them. I need a decent microscope though.
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I'd love to hear more about your ideas, Slimm.

Here's another update:

All is well. Plants are growing, fattening, getting frosty. The Hempy AN plant has finally shifted gears and is starting to fatten up. I went ahead and altered the AN feeding schedule to include parts A and B in a 2:1 ratio, instead of 1:1. My reasoning for doing so is pretty straightforward:

The plants were lagging. The lower fan leaves were yellowing and flowering was slow. The other plants were thriving and keeping their leaves because they had more nitrogen....so I upped the nitrogen using AN products. the plants have responded.

I've got one pure Sativa, and a hybrid Skunk/Diesel that is showing more sativa qualities than the others, but not quite as pure as the first one.

Oh, I trimmed a lower branch about a week ago that had some popcorn bud. I smoked them just now and I'm very pleased. it is way, way early, but here I am with a clear headed buzz and a smile. No harshness either. Too early to tell how the final product will be....but I doubt it will totally suck.
The overall length of my star plant. No side branches....I pruned them off. About 10" in diameter at the base of the plant. The cola is going to be a monster....23 inches long so far.
IMG_091311.JPG

IMG_09149.JPG


The smallest and frostiest. The pics don't do it justice.
IMG_09158.JPG

IMG_091615.JPG


this is the pure Sativa. I've pruned the hell out of it, trying to eliminate side branching....but it's going to have 6 or 7 main tops. Bud sites EVERYWHERE, but they are light and airy. I can't wait to try this plant.
IMG_09178.JPG

here's a close up of one of the buds:
IMG_09188.JPG


another soil/Osmocote
IMG_09197.JPG

IMG_09214.JPG
 
Wow, great update.

I really like the shape of the 23" cola plant that's 10" at the base.

So, what are your thoughts at this juncture on the 12/12 method? I realize the plants could easily be twice or three times as large with some veg time, but with the 12/12 schedule and trimming the branches, do you think you would regain or surpass that by packing more of them into the same area as fewer larger plants?

If you like to make seeds, 12/12 is a really attractive option if you have enough density.

I just noticed that you don't have a/c block plates on your hood. You'll increase the intensity to the canopy by blocking those holes.
 
After some reading and studying here's a hint and an idea.
Osmocote prills do not become active until they have been in moisture for a seven day period. It will tolerate temps from 50 up to 90 degrees (I do not believe that to be soil temp) and in higher temp will expend itself in 4 months. The higher the temp the shorter the lifespan. Question? Does that mean then that a plants raised in higher temps use more nutes?
It's an interesting idea that soil makes Osmocote function differently. That though is what makes some of these journal so fun. 1st you need a logical and informed person to start the show and folks that are willing and able to listen and learn and pass on ideas and info.
Now to my thought and please share any thoughts you may have.
I believe Osmocote / Dynamite can be used in hydro. It's the question of how to disperse the nutes in full water. I say make a tea bag of nylon hose and place it very near the water uptake of the pump. It should still dissolve as if it were in the soil or Hempy? Also when Dynamite was designed for rice paddies I believe it is hydro. The soil we grow in it mildly moistened versus rice paddies soil is fully submerged. 100 % water & 100% RH all the time.
The info Doc gave says Dynamite is not effected by excessive moisture. Which is great too in that if I use either of these time released nutes the worst I can do is over water. Where if you're mixing your nute and over watering now you have two problems. Damned if I don't love SIMPLE!!!
 
One thing I found interesting about Dynamite is their "climate zone customization".

Dynamite is the only fertilizer on the market specifically blended for warm, mild, and cool regions. The fertilizer is custom blended to release the appropriate amount of nutrients at different rates based on the climatic differences, particularly the termperature of the soil, of each specific region. For example, the blend in Florida will have more controlled release agent in the coating to help it continuously feed the plants for a longer growing period than the fertilizer blended for North Dakota, which has cooler soil temperatures.
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So my guess is that, living in the SouthEast, my regional version would probably be better for a hydro grow considering the higher temps. we normally operate at as hydro growers.
 
Setting Sun said:
Wow, great update.

I really like the shape of the 23" cola plant that's 10" at the base.

So, what are your thoughts at this juncture on the 12/12 method? I realize the plants could easily be twice or three times as large with some veg time, but with the 12/12 schedule and trimming the branches, do you think you would regain or surpass that by packing more of them into the same area as fewer larger plants?

If you like to make seeds, 12/12 is a really attractive option if you have enough density.

I just noticed that you don't have a/c block plates on your hood. You'll increase the intensity to the canopy by blocking those holes.
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What are AC block plates? I'm thinking I may vent the hood, but it is problematic for me because I don't want to pump all the C02 out of the room.

I like the12/12 option....a lot. I can pack about 15 plants into the same space I normally struggle to get 6 into.

6 plants a 3 oz each=18oz and lot's of trimmin
15 plants at 1.5oz each=22.5 oz and much less trimmin

Determining sex is far easier on 12/12....can do it in solo cups under the T5, saves dirt/perlite, etc.


irishboy said:
are the AN the fatter buds? i cant tell witch ones are those plants with the fatter colas?

looking good bro
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The AN are lagging behind the Osmocote. They aren't doing nearly as well. That's the whole theme of the journal.
 
Old Goat said:
After some reading and studying here's a hint and an idea.
Osmocote prills do not become active until they have been in moisture for a seven day period. It will tolerate temps from 50 up to 90 degrees (I do not believe that to be soil temp) and in higher temp will expend itself in 4 months.

The higher the temp the shorter the lifespan. Question? Does that mean then that a plants raised in higher temps use more nutes?


It's an interesting idea that soil makes Osmocote function differently. That though is what makes some of these journal so fun. 1st you need a logical and informed person to start the show and folks that are willing and able to listen and learn and pass on ideas and info.

Now to my thought and please share any thoughts you may have.

I believe Osmocote / Dynamite can be used in hydro. It's the question of how to disperse the nutes in full water. I say make a tea bag of nylon hose and place it very near the water uptake of the pump. It should still dissolve as if it were in the soil or Hempy? Also when Dynamite was designed for rice paddies I believe it is hydro. The soil we grow in it mildly moistened versus rice paddies soil is fully submerged. 100 % water & 100% RH all the time.
The info Doc gave says Dynamite is not effected by excessive moisture. Which is great too in that if I use either of these time released nutes the worst I can do is over water. Where if you're mixing your nute and over watering now you have two problems. Damned if I don't love SIMPLE!!!
Click to expand...

When these plants were seedlings, I put prill in a pitcher of water. The PPM rose in about 10 minutes and then pegged at a certain level.....just under 400 if I recall....it's in the journal somewhere. I used that for watering.

Osmocote can be used in hydro....at least i can say for certain that it can be used very well in passive hydro....this journal is proof of that. I suspect it could also be used very well in a flood and drain set up, where the medium retains moisture. It could also be used in an Ebb n Grow set up, with the "sock" in the net pot, and prills in the reservoir.....but I'm not sure that would be advantageous over purpose designed hydro nutes.

I'm told that Dyna-gro has a product that is complete that can be used in hydro....as well as Jack's Classic. Both costs pennies in comparison to Cannabis-type products.

The temperature thing:
Cold plants use less nutes, and these CRF's don't put out as much in lower temps.

As temps get warmer....to a point....plant metabolism and photosynthesis increases. Warmer plants use more nutes and water (to a certain extent) and these CRF's put out more as temps rise.

I'm learning a ton of info by reading about commercial gardening, greenhouse gardening and such. CRF's are a mainstay for professionals.
 
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