As far as I know it’s always been that way, there are some balls of differing sizes and some powder. It dissolves better in warm water
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As far as I know it’s always been that way, there are some balls of differing sizes and some powder. It dissolves better in warm water
Well, until the plant starts building flowers and stretching, it's nute requirements don't change...OMG what do you mean flip and not flower feed? Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of flipping?
I do believe it- because I knew you'd do an excellent job with the training!I have some pics! C Dogg you won’t believe how good they look!
Those are fine- TegaBrop is like half and half, powder and balls...Are these just balled Tega Brop or is something wrong?
Your dosages don't have to be totally exact-"real close" is good enough... say you need 1.25g....anything from 1.20 to 1.30 would be acceptable.And it can literally take me 20 mins to get these grams right!
As far as I know it’s always been that way, there are some balls of differing sizes and some powder. It dissolves better in warm water
Oh thank you for the tip.I usually mix the amount I need with hot water and then pour it into my water jug and add more water and then shake it all up.
Good morning C Star ️Well, until the plant starts building flowers and stretching, it's nute requirements don't change...
although, switching to the flowering dosage when you flip won't hurt anything...waiting until flowers start appearing is just something I do, but it's not necessarily the way it has to be done....
I do believe it- because I knew you'd do an excellent job with the training!
And you're right, they look damn good...they're gonna look even better once they get to flowering!
Those are fine- TegaBrop is like half and half, powder and balls...
Your dosages don't have to be totally exact-"real close" is good enough... say you need 1.25g....anything from 1.20 to 1.30 would be acceptable.
I measure the stuff out into a little pill bottle, then I add warm water, put the cap on, and shake up the pill bottle until everything dissolves, then dump it into your watering jug- shaking up a little pill bottle
is a hell of a lot easier than shaking up a gallon jug, and some of the balls in there take a lot of shaking to completely dissolve ..
That's close to 8 or 9 grams per gallon (yipes!)- If that's what they're being fed, and they're doing ok, then that's cool, but I wouldn't go any higher, ever...I’ll just keep them at the 2/2.25g per litre till you think I should add more.
Oh sorry 2LThat's close to 8 or 9 grams per gallon (yipes!)- If that's what they're being fed, and they're doing ok, then that's cool, but I wouldn't go any higher, ever...
Ideally, they should be at apx. 4.5-5 g/gallon at this stage (1.125-1.25g/ litre)
Or, did you mean 2/2.5g per gallon?- if so, that's a little bit weak...
they are really good survivors and should be nice and supple to work with too. They do look nice and malleable still. She bending alone is only a temp disruption to her plan so she will just wait and grow past the issue , such as a tie , or peg . With the supercrop, the damage we intentionally inflict is to slow her down while also allowing us to place her where we want it to be . With the thumb and forefinger method , we can feel the tissue slowly breaking down as we roll and apply the pressure. As we donit the weight above the point chosen , will start to flop over as the stem loses its strength. You can decide as it falls , how much you need to angle it to lose the height. As it repairs the damage and re-strengthens the stem , it will still feed the top past the damage and the knot will begin to form too. This is the gentle way , if a stem is more woody and cannot be pulped , a more aggressive pinch to flatten the stem and a carefully angled 90° bend is applied. This can be where damage and a snap happens but as long as you have some tape handy to repair the break and keep air out , it will still achieve our objective. Rhe knows on older limbs make big chunky looking knots but softer stems have a more aesthetic look and only tend to redirect until the repair is done then they shoot upwards again like the ones I did . If it comes to it , there is nonissue with keeping ties in place until harvest too. Just a little harder to water is all.@Ganjagrandaddy this is what I was talking about. I have a hard time holding down my girls arms, and I use rocks to weigh them down, and the result has been a bendy arm without the knuckle.
she is going to have a lot of beautiful mains. seeing the weights working so well too.Day 55 of Veg
Halle Bee Shiskaberry
She is the less green of the two, but she doesn’t look unhealthy just a different shade. Her canopy isn’t as well Carhooked TM, she’s the less pretty.
WillE Bee Peyote Critical
This plant is fucking stunning. Like beautiful. Her shade of green is just lovely. Oh and her canopy is semi even and is just so lush.
oooops. lol These plants develop their terps/oils in their dark periods ready for the sun coming back up and trying to burn the plant. Temps obviously play a role too but they do need dark periods for oil and frost .Sunscreen before the sun philosophy at play. Also add any flushing periods that would also starve them during their most voracious period too . I think the last cycle of flowering plays a huge role on final result and is often the one neglected by haste to harvest. curing is similar too. being able to really cure would take months and is really a term more akin to cigar makers. we throw the term around but it is really a time for the terps and oils to ripen. The initial chemical aroma when opening , a little like pissy lemon/chemical cleaner , and only the initial hit at the lids release , is a gas release i think. This gassyness lessens over Time in the jar and if I dry using slower methods them trim ALL the leaf off before jarring , usually takes about 10 days to totally dissappear. I enjoy the smoke a lot more once this has happened and the flavours are definately more defined. Without the patch , I assume it depends on the rh when they went in and the temp they are stored at too. I mainly patch to avoid the risk of mould which can devastate a sealed, damp,hot jar of weed very quickly.So I was really thinking about flower. And I think I know why my grow always finishes underwhelmingly. Because I think I know when I don’t, I make errors when I follow my own decisions mainly coz I base it on a vibe lollllllllll.
So at flower on my days off work I would often leave my plants in the dark till 0800 so I could lay in bed and drink coffee - coz an extra couple of hours of dark won’t matter aye? And I would also put them back into the dark room early so I could concentrate on my cha cha chores and dinner making - coz an extra 60-90 minutes of dark won’t matter aye?
I remember my friend saying on overcast days when choosing who needs light more on my seedlings and my flowering plant, choose the flowering plant coz it needs the light more to build bud. This made my brain say faaaaaaak. So on reflection my plants on average had prolly 9-10 hours of dark, coz I was thinking under 12 hours of dark would be fine. I am now thinking it wasn’t.
So to ensure I don’t repeat this mistake, if it in fact is one, I’ve bought a cheap flower light for the dark room and I’m going to dust off my other timer. It’s called a Bloom Plus 2500W LED Grow Light and it covers a 4 foot area. I am going to measure my 12:12 the same way I measure my TB.