Thirvnrob's Power Plant - TLO Soil In SIP Containers

And at what application rate for the molasses?
If I am rescuing a crashed pot I mix 3 tablespoons into 16 litres of water. If I am just maintaining regularly until the end I use 2 tablespoons for 16 litres. If my brix get stuck around 14, as they sometimes do, I mix 1 tablespoon to 16 litres to just bump it all up a bit. If the leaves are noticably suffering or yellowing I consider it a rescue and go with 3 tablespoons on the 1st feeding. Then drop to 2.
 
Well, I have a good bit of information to digest. I’m glad I have the experience that I have. Every bit of it would’ve gone over my head & been overwhelming to me when I first started growing, but I understand a fair amount of it & the rest isn’t so intimidating, with one exception , which I’ll bring to light shortly.

@Azimuth , @Keffka , @InTheShed , @StoneOtter , @Gee64 , @NOOOBIENOT thanks for your input.
I have questions:
I’ve already started my next grow in SIPs. Can I switch to the cloth pots now or should I continue on the SIP path?
I have 10 gallon cloth pots. Should I graduate my seedlings up or can I put them into their final containers? I understand how to properly water them. I kinda miss following @Emilya Green s watering protocol since I’ve been using SIPs.

@StoneOtter if I do go straight to the final pots, should I still flip early? Will the roots fill the bag?

@Keffka what is BSM? You perfectly described what happens around the end of stretch!

@Gee64 these are from seed. I’ve tried cloning thrice, with one success. She was a little show off & gave me 4 zips in a 3 gallon container when I was using synthetic nutes. I googled BRIX - I get the general idea, but do I have to math? Make it easy for me man…
 
If I am rescuing a crashed pot I mix 3 tablespoons into 16 litres of water. If I am just maintaining regularly until the end I use 2 tablespoons for 16 litres. If my brix get stuck around 14, as they sometimes do, I mix 1 tablespoon to 16 litres to just bump it all up a bit. If the leaves are noticably suffering or yellowing I consider it a rescue and go with 3 tablespoons on the 1st feeding. Then drop to 2.
So you can measure brix?
 
Well, I have a good bit of information to digest. I’m glad I have the experience that I have. Every bit of it would’ve gone over my head & been overwhelming to me when I first started growing, but I understand a fair amount of it & the rest isn’t so intimidating, with one exception , which I’ll bring to light shortly.

@Azimuth , @Keffka , @InTheShed , @StoneOtter , @Gee64 , @NOOOBIENOT thanks for your input.
I have questions:
I’ve already started my next grow in SIPs. Can I switch to the cloth pots now or should I continue on the SIP path?
I have 10 gallon cloth pots. Should I graduate my seedlings up or can I put them into their final containers? I understand how to properly water them. I kinda miss following @Emilya Green s watering protocol since I’ve been using SIPs.

@StoneOtter if I do go straight to the final pots, should I still flip early? Will the roots fill the bag?

@Keffka what is BSM? You perfectly described what happens around the end of stretch!

@Gee64 these are from seed. I’ve tried cloning thrice, with one success. She was a little show off & gave me 4 zips in a 3 gallon container when I was using synthetic nutes. I googled BRIX - I get the general idea, but do I have to math? Make it easy for me man…
I will be starting my new plants in a couple of months and I will still do it the same way that I have always done it, even though they will end up in 7 gallon cloth containers on top of a sip. I see no good argument for starting in the final container when I am perfectly comfortable moving from solo to 1 gallon to 3 gallon and then to the 7 gallon finals. The main advantage of the sip will come in late veg and I'm not worried that I'm going to restrict growth in any way by starting traditionally and then moving to the SIP as the last step. This fits right in with my watering method where I restrict water through veg and then in bloom I want them to have all the water they can possibly use. I'm not so interested in developing a special root system in the sip at this late stage but I'm more interested in keeping everything hydrated. To deal with feeding issues in a totally automated sip I plan on using super soil and water only.
 
If I am rescuing a crashed pot I mix 3 tablespoons into 16 litres of water. If I am just maintaining regularly until the end I use 2 tablespoons for 16 litres. If my brix get stuck around 14, as they sometimes do, I mix 1 tablespoon to 16 litres to just bump it all up a bit. If the leaves are noticably suffering or yellowing I consider it a rescue and go with 3 tablespoons on the 1st feeding. Then drop to 2.
So can be used with each watering?
 
So can be used with each watering?
If my pot is out of carbon and I have to supply it I use it almost every watering.

This is a one way street though. Once your microlife gets used to sugar water it becomes addicted to it and you need to use it until the end of the grow.

I don't recycle those pots. I toss the rootball full of sugar junkies into the outdoor composter.

It only happens when I am trying a small pot experiment or I veg too long in a small pot.

If my pot crashes because it got too dry or cold or any other event that hurt the microlife, then I usually incorporate the BSM into a tea for a 1 and done rescue to get the system fired back up. Sometimes a 2nd BSM feeding is required here. If I give it a 2nd dose its usually a weaker dose.

I always have enough on the go so that if it does happen I usually chop the plant right there and the worms get it, and I replace it with another.

I only put the effort into a rescue if they are deep into flower. Having to spoon feed a plant for 2 months is too much work for me.

If you end up using BSM regularly it will work quite well but the weed won't taste the same. It will taste fine, just not the same.
 
what is BSM? You perfectly described what happens around the end of stretch

Blackstrap Molasses. It’s one of the best sugar sources you can introduce. The problem is, giving the microbes sugars without making them work for it makes them lazy. Once in a while it’s kind of okay like a treat, but you don’t want them getting hooked on easy access or balance starts to fall off and things fall off out whack quickly and now you’re stuck providing it the rest of the grow. This has a noticeable impact on final quality and flavor/smoke especially.

However, without carbon in the pot, they can no longer get the sugar they need to perform the processes they do, so you have to supply it. We use BSM to accomplish this.

As far as stepping up containers, it’s all about the size of your grow. I can’t go much taller than 4-5 ft of plant growth at the max, after stretch, so I have to stay low. This grow I’m gonna see if I can train the plants to stay low enough that I can step up containers like @Emilya Green because that gives a powerful rootball with a very healthy and large plant. However I may be forced to go into my final container just to stay low enough.

If you can afford the height, step up, if not, you may have to balance the two and go solo to 1 gallon to final container, or just straight in final.
 
yes with a tool called a refractometer.
Like this?
IMG_3188.png
 
What happened Shed? Will you conventionally water the cloth pot or SWICK it?
Wish I knew Gee! I transplanted it from a 1 gallon nursery pot to a 5 gallon SIP that seemed up to spec on the build. It was okay for a couple of weeks and then took on an overwatered look. Now it's just sad. I'm going to slide it out today, knock the soil off the roots, and put it in a 7 gallon GeoPot and top water as usual. Feel free to stop by my thread if you want to see that happen!
 
This is a one way street though. Once your microlife gets used to sugar water it becomes addicted to it and you need to use it until the end of the grow.
Though presumably one could add new microbes with JMS or worm castings or something in subsequent waterings. And as you've said, adding new microbes and nutrients later in the grow is proably a requirement in small containers like mine anyway.

I do find the potential systemic bug deterence properties of the BSM appealing.
 
Though presumably one could add new microbes with JMS or worm castings or something in subsequent waterings. And as you've said, adding new microbes and nutrients later in the grow is proably a requirement in small containers like mine anyway.

I do find the potential systemic bug deterence properties of the BSM appealing.
Its a great tool.
 
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