Thirvnrob's Power Plant - TLO Soil In SIP Containers

[Thirvnrob]

oops…

 

[InTheShed]

I’m starting a new journal in a few days but I have a question about the baby girls. The main vein of some of the leaves are a lighter color . Any ideas?

Might be genetic since the rest of the plant looks healthy. I can't think of a nutrient issue that involves the actual veins.

 

[Gee64]

I’m starting a new journal in a few days but I have a question about the baby girls. The main vein of some of the leaves are a lighter color . Any ideas?

Is this a designer indica strain? I have a very designer strain of Rose Kush that does this, and I have seen it in BC Bud strains too. Both God Bud and I think GDP was the other one. I think Shed is probably right, but honestly have no idea. The plant looks good.

 

[Thirvnrob]

Is this a designer indica strain? I have a very designer strain of Rose Kush that does this, and I have seen it in BC Bud strains too. Both God Bud and I think GDP was the other one. I think Shed is probably right, but honestly have no idea. The plant looks good.

It’s actually Green Crack which is 75/25 Sativa dominant according to the breeder. They do look like Indica leaves though don’t they?

 

[Thirvnrob]

Might be genetic since the rest of the plant looks healthy. I can't think of a nutrient issue that involves the actual veins.

Thanks Shed!

 

[Gee64]

No.. Brix does not give bud rot or mold protection. The reason it gives pest protection is because bugs cannot digest the plant without dying. They know this and the plant knows this. The high sugar content turns to alcohol in their system and they die so they don’t even bother with the high brix plants. It’s thought that bugs can literally see the high brix content in the plants; or rather, they can’t see the plant at all, it’s essentially invisible to them, when the plant is healthy and has high brix.

The number one way to prevent mold and bud rot is airflow and air exchange. I run 60 rh for all of flower. I could run 80 rh if I wanted too. The key is air exchange and air flow. Getting old, damp, stale air out with fresh clean new air. The easiest way to accomplish this all depends on your environment. If you’re in a closed tent system, a strong in-line fan with enough cfm to replace the air in your room every 5 minutes will be close to enough but you would also want a few fans just to be sure.

In a setup like mine which is open walled and completely passive, I use oscillating fans that blow directly on the plants. This exchanges the air between the plants constantly. Training really helps with this. Opening up the plant so air can flow through the whole thing and none of the branches are laying on each other or in a position where they block air exchange.

The simplest way to think about it is, you want to do whatever you can to make sure the air in your grow is completely replaced every 5 minutes

Sorry @Carmen Ray , sorry @Keffka , I meant to reply to this at the time but life is very distracting and busy this summer. Better late than never I suppose.

Yes high brix will greatly reduce your chances of all pathogens including mold and budrot. Here is how that works.

The plants immune system is actually a crapload of microbes running around all over the soil and the plant and they defend their plant to keep getting the exudates.

The higher the brix level the more microbes (immunities) the plant can support.

There are trillions of microbes all over the plants leaves, stalks, flowers, etc and if they outnumber the fungal spores trying to latch onto the plant they will consume the spores before the spores can establish.

Now that being said Keff is 100% correct in saying better air flow, as that creates an environment that repels molds etc.

 

[Keffka]

Sorry @Carmen Ray , sorry @Keffka , I meant to reply to this at the time but life is very distracting and busy this summer. Better late than never I suppose.

Yes high brix will greatly reduce your chances of all pathogens including mold and budrot. Here is how that works.

The plants immune system is actually a crapload of microbes running around all over the soil and the plant and they defend their plant to keep getting the exudates.

The higher the brix level the more microbes (immunities) the plant can support.

There are trillions of microbes all over the plants leaves, stalks, flowers, etc and if they outnumber the fungal spores trying to latch onto the plant they will consume the spores before the spores can establish.

Now that being said Keff is 100% correct in saying better air flow, as that creates an environment that repels molds etc.

Can you obtain a high brix level without proper airflow?

 

[Gee64]

Can you obtain a high brix level without proper airflow?

To be honest I have never tried. You need at least some kind of minimal airflow to keep o2 and CO2 available. I like high air flow. My 6" fan runs on high. I don't think you could without a fairly good exchange rate.

 

[Keffka]

To be honest I have never tried. You need at least some kind of minimal airflow to keep o2 and CO2 available. I like high air flow. My 6" fan runs on high. I don't think you could without a fairly good exchange rate.

They sound fairly intertwined.

In relation to bud rot, while brix can provide greater immunity, it’s not enough. Proper airflow however is enough. However again (lol), if you have high brix you likely already have proper airflow.

I say that to say, if bud rot is an issue, make sure you have proper airflow. Don’t go chasing brix to alleviate bud rot, if you haven’t squared away your airflow you’re likely not going to reach the brix required to prevent it anyway.

Does this sound correct @Gee64 ?

I’ve started digging into @Doc Bud journals on high brix while also reading what I can. It’s good info that builds really well on the TLO stuff

 

[Azimuth]

I’ve started digging into @Doc Bud journals on high brix while also reading what I can. It’s good info that builds really well on the TLO stuff

Did you see 420's List of High Brix Journals?

 

[Gee64]

They sound fairly intertwined.

They are

In relation to bud rot, while brix can provide greater immunity, it’s not enough. Proper airflow however is enough. However again (lol), if you have high brix you likely already have proper airflow.

Again all correct. After a prolonged period of time high brix will go low with bad air flow. Then mold or bugs or both move in.

I say that to say, if bud rot is an issue, make sure you have proper airflow. Don’t go chasing brix to alleviate bud rot, if you haven’t squared away your airflow you’re likely not going to reach the brix required to prevent it anyway.

Yeah chasing them here won't help, they need to be preventative. However if you fix the airflow I recommend chasing them immediately if its an organic grow. Why wouldn't you? Its pretty much free.

Does this sound correct @Gee64 ?

It does

I’ve started digging into @Doc Bud journals on high brix while also reading what I can. It’s good info that builds really well on the TLO stuff

Dude your about to drop down a floor in rabbit holes. Into the cellar with you. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Once you understand how brix work synergistically you won't grow any other way if you stick with organics because other than monkeying around nothing else makes as much sense. Open the hatch Baby! Do it!

But for @Carmen Ray 's question in a practical application lets look at a real life scenario. If you have 2 plants, one with a brix of 3, (sorry @StoneOtter your going under the bus Buddy,) and the other is a 25 brix Purple Kush (oh yeah @Gee64 is driving the bus) and your fan fries out, or a 3 day storm jacks humidity to 95% RH and 77 degrees F and some mildew spores blow by, guess which plant has the better chance.

I say this because in reality plants face hardship every day and high brix wins every time.

So if you have intermittent air problems you would prefer the high brix.

High brix is far more impervious to mold during drying and curing too, sugar is a preservative.

Keff you are going to extract a lot from a high brix knowledge journey, its an exciting thing. Puzzle pieces fall into place a lot. Then after studying it for thousands of hours you are going to conclude "It's that simple? Really? Why would I grow any other way? oops...spoiler...

Plants synthesize sugar because plants need sugar.

 

[Keffka]

Did you see 420's List of High Brix Journals?

Your comment about the absurd amount of them piqued my interest in the journals to begin with. I was shocked by how many there were. It was almost too much lol. That’s why I decided to focus on Doc Buds first then start branching out (heh a little plant humor ).

Yeah chasing them here won't help, they need to be preventative. However if you fix the airflow I recommend chasing them immediately if its an organic grow. Why wouldn't you? It’s pretty much free.

That’s pretty much the gist of what I saw.. It goes directly hand in hand with what I’m doing and so far seems to just be a matter of tweaking my ratios and including a few other things I already have on my shelves. I’ve also noticed that a lot of it explains much better why some of the stuff we use works versus the “I’m not sure why it works but it does” stuff that I’ve read.

Dude you’re about to drop down a floor in rabbit holes. Into the cellar with you. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Lol I knew I was in trouble the other night. Normally I watch older TV shows the last hour or two before bed so I can relax. I’m fairly habitual with stuff like that. The past few nights I’ve found myself losing track of time as I pore over the journals. So much so I had to put a self imposed time limit on when I can look at the site lol. I am not allowed to go on here after 8 pm est any more or I won’t fall asleep in time lol.

Once you understand how brix work synergistically you won't grow any other way if you stick with organics because other than monkeying around nothing else makes as much sense. Open the hatch Baby! Do it!

Bingo. Organics are cool and all and I love the results, but there’s a lot left to be desired in the information and understanding department as to why certain things work so much better. Brix however gives me a thorough explanation and understanding of the 5 Ws while also giving me a tool and measurement, it’s the best of both worlds, organics and science.

But for @Carmen Ray 's question in a practical application lets look at a real life scenario. If you have 2 plants, one with a brix of 3, (sorry @StoneOtter your going under the bus Buddy,) and the other is a 25 brix Purple Kush (oh yeah @Gee64 is driving the bus) and your fan fries out, or a 3 day storm jacks humidity to 95% RH and 77 degrees F and some mildew spores blow by, guess which plant has the better chance.

I say this because in reality plants face hardship every day and high brix wins every time.

So if you have intermittent air problems you would prefer the high brix.

High brix is far more impervious to mold during drying and curing too, sugar is a preservative.

Makes mucho sense

Keff you are going to extract a lot from a high brix knowledge journey, its an exciting thing. Puzzle pieces fall into place a lot. Then after studying it for thousands of hours you are going to conclude "It's that simple? Really? Why would I grow any other way? oops...spoiler...

I agree and am excited already lol. Some of the stuff I’ve read so far has left me with the “holy shit” feeling quite a bit. It’s nice to finally have answers beyond “it just works”. We both know how annoyed I get when I don’t get more information than “because I said so” and we both know that doesn’t work for me in the long run lol. This is going to save me untold amounts of trial and error alone, never mind the value of the knowledge itself

 

[Gee64]

Your comment about the absurd amount of them piqued my interest in the journals to begin with. I was shocked by how many there were. It was almost too much lol. That’s why I decided to focus on Doc Buds first then start branching out (heh a little plant humor ).



That’s pretty much the gist of what I saw.. It goes directly hand in hand with what I’m doing and so far seems to just be a matter of tweaking my ratios and including a few other things I already have on my shelves. I’ve also noticed that a lot of it explains much better why some of the stuff we use works versus the “I’m not sure why it works but it does” stuff that I’ve read.



Lol I knew I was in trouble the other night. Normally I watch older TV shows the last hour or two before bed so I can relax. I’m fairly habitual with stuff like that. The past few nights I’ve found myself losing track of time as I pore over the journals. So much so I had to put a self imposed time limit on when I can look at the site lol. I am not allowed to go on here after 8 pm est any more or I won’t fall asleep in time lol.



Bingo. Organics are cool and all and I love the results, but there’s a lot left to be desired in the information and understanding department as to why certain things work so much better. Brix however gives me a thorough explanation and understanding of the 5 Ws while also giving me a tool and measurement, it’s the best of both worlds, organics and science.



Makes mucho sense




I agree and am excited already lol. Some of the stuff I’ve read so far has left me with the “holy shit” feeling quite a bit. It’s nice to finally have answers beyond “it just works”. We both know how annoyed I get when I don’t get more information than “because I said so” and we both know that doesn’t work for me in the long run lol. This is going to save me untold amounts of trial and error alone, never mind the value of the knowledge itself

Just don't get caught up in the commercial side of it.

It's easy to do, much cheaper, and works far better if its all cooked into your soil and maintained with top dressings. All high brix really is, is more photosynthesis.

5 things. Calcium, phosphorus, oxygen, carbon, and sufficient numbers of healthy microbes. Increase those and high brix just happens if your soil is nutritious.

Calcium opens the soil to supply oxygen that aerobic microbes need, carbon feeds them until the plants brix get high enough to do it, and more available phosphorus allows for better nutrient transport to photosynthesize more, thus creating more sugars.

Do all that and the microbe population explodes.

Now you have a closed loop that grows exponentially every lap. A perpetual motion machine.

Then calcium from the top becomes a vital addition to maintain the soil conditions and it goes round and round.

If you were to package up those ingredients individually, give them each a cool name, and instructions on how and when to use each one, you have a high brix business model.

It's almost free because you DO already have it all on your shelf.

If you do it all correctly and your brix are still low you just need to prime the system. Cane sugar or molasses water will jack up the microbe population and if the rest is correct it jumps to life.

Once the plant starts to turn a sugar profit and re-invests that profit into feeding more microbes its all up and running and grows a notch every payday.

Every time your brix stalls out its either more calcium or more phosphorus thats needed, or you over watered and cut off oxygen.

Its almost always calcium or overwatering.

Overwatering leads to a calcium deficiency faster.

You can also add compost teas to boost microbes, but microbes work best if myco and the plant grow and maintain the ones they need, and where they make them colonize.

Thats where some used soil from a successful grow mixed into your base mix shines, its an innoculant.

Then as you get better at it you can reduce soil carbon as the plant supplies it earlier, and the extra pot space freed up from less coco (or whatever your carbon input is) means more room for nutrients.

 

[Gee64]

Incidentally, high brix IS the carbon cycle. Nature invented it. Earth worms and calcium cyclers perfected it. The air breathing microbes create the carbon dioxide when they exhale, that the plant requires to break free from soil carbon reliance. You should be entitled to carbon credits here... no joke. You are sequestering carbon from the air and storing it inside sugar. Its green energy.

 

[Keffka]

Just don't get caught up in the commercial side of it.

We both know how absurdly cheap I am lol.. If there’s a way to do it cheaper I’m all for it.. Hell, I figured out how to use even less myco than the teaspoons I was already using lol. From the beginning I’ve always been about trying to do stuff as cheaply, sustainably, and natural as I could. This is an extension of that.

It's easy to do, much cheaper, and works far better if its all cooked into your soil and maintained with top dressings. All high brix really is, is more photosynthesis.

I learned this on the first two grows. Nothing compares to just cooking it in.

5 things. Calcium, phosphorus, oxygen, carbon, and sufficient numbers of healthy microbes. Increase those and high brix just happens if your soil is nutritious.

Calcium opens the soil to supply oxygen that aerobic microbes need, carbon feeds them until the plants brix get high enough to do it, and more available phosphorus allows for better nutrient transport to photosynthesize more, thus creating more sugars.

Do all that and the microbe population explodes.

Now you have a closed loop that grows exponentially every lap. A perpetual motion machine.

Then calcium from the top becomes a vital addition to maintain the soil conditions and it goes round and round.

If you were to package up those ingredients individually, give them each a cool name, and instructions on how and when to use each one, you have a high brix business model.

It's almost free because you DO already have it all on your shelf.

If you do it all correctly and your brix are still low you just need to prime the system. Cane sugar or molasses water will jack up the microbe population and if the rest is correct it jumps to life.

Once the plant starts to turn a sugar profit and re-invests that profit into feeding more microbes its all up and running and grows a notch every payday.

Every time your brix stalls out its either more calcium or more phosphorus thats needed, or you over watered and cut off oxygen.

Its almost always calcium or overwatering.

Overwatering leads to a calcium deficiency faster.

You can also add compost teas to boost microbes, but microbes work best if myco and the plant grow and maintain the ones they need, and where they make them colonize.

I’ve shied away from the compost teas recently. They seem unnecessary if everything is healthy. If I’m maintaining a healthy soil balance, I don’t need to add extra microbes or nutrients and it almost seems like it would cause issues with balance between bacteria and fungi. I can see them being useful in areas where you need to restore life and microbes but in my already healthy soils it seems overkill at best.

They seem more for rescue or restoration.

Thats where some used soil from a successful grow mixed into your base mix shines, its an innoculant.

Which brings us to the current grow. The entire intent aside from the harvest is to have a clean, performing soil for recycling. Although as I’ve read more, I’m wondering about the viability of FFOF for high brix. Elevated Sodium and Potassium levels seem to be a bit of an issue in commercial soils. I’ve gotta do some more digging but I may find myself having to transition soils again. This isn’t a big deal but I thought I was done thinking about which potting mix to buy