The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

NorCAKnowYourGrow said:
So, I have a newbie Q. This repotting (I've been one of those lazy ones and shall not be from here on out...thank you....)....anyhow.....this repotting. I assume it ends when flowering begins??
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even before... I like to get into the final container at least a week, preferably 2 weeks before going to bloom, and then that also gives the 10-14 days of stretch time to also stretch the roots into that new larger final container. Once stretch is over, the plant switches gears and no longer is aggressively growing new roots. From then on, it is time to use the roots you have developed, to get the most water and nutrients into the plant as she can take.
 
Abstrakt said:
Thinking beyond...I have not seen anything mentioned regarding water temperature. Is this important for proper growth? I typically aim for room temp but I'd hate to let anything slip away..
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I am sure it can be a factor, and room temp seems about right to me too. I figure it should not be too hot nor too cold. We do also know that some people use ice water at the end to shock the plant into finishing out... so it does seem clear that too cold can have some sort of effect, and I am just as sure that water that was way too hot could also kill the roots. Moderation in all things is a sound strategy in many things in this life.
 
Thank you so much @Emilya

I think I pretty much get the Veg part of watering. Water slowly, lift and/or touch bottom pot for moisture. If light and bottom is dry or just slightly moist, water till fully saturated. I may not be able to reach some plants to water them like you do but should be fine I guess?

Just a little confused with flowering part. Plants usually get too big in my 5 or 10 gallon fabric Pot to lift during flower. Some I just can't reach. Can I really judge based on top inch being bone dry? I understand they need more water but how dry do I let them get, without a meter or being able to lift them? I grow in 5 and 10 gallon pots. Start in solo cups and transplant to final pots. I understand my rootball won't be ideal but am unable to constantly pot up due to restrictions.
 
GrowGlow said:
Thank you so much @Emilya

I think I pretty much get the Veg part of watering. Water slowly, lift and/or touch bottom pot for moisture. If light and bottom is dry or just slightly moist, water till fully saturated. I may not be able to reach some plants to water them like you do but should be fine I guess?

Just a little confused with flowering part. Plants usually get too big in my 5 or 10 gallon fabric Pot to lift during flower. Some I just can't reach. Can I really judge based on top inch being bone dry? I understand they need more water but how dry do I let them get, without a meter or being able to lift them? I grow in 5 and 10 gallon pots. Start in solo cups and transplant to final pots. I understand my rootball won't be ideal but am unable to constantly pot up due to restrictions.
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Great questions Glow, thank you for asking.
Honestly, when I am dealing with 4 foot plants in 5 gallon containers or larger, I don't lift them... That is for the veg rooms.
In the bloom room, I go by droop. I am not going as bone dry as I do in veg, but I am not doing the finger in the top either... I am watching for them to tell me that they need water. Usually there is one larger and more vigorous plant that can be your indicator... she will start drooping first, and that can be your clue to water the entire room, once you get everyone more or less in sync. I am looking at the lower leaves of these big plants as I enter the room, and if I see them hanging low, showing a lack of water, I hit the entire room. By this time you will have seen and attempted to establish a watering pattern in the bloom room, so you can anticipate this watering need fairly well... within a day or two usually.
 
Emilya said:
Great questions Glow, thank you for asking.
Honestly, when I am dealing with 4 foot plants in 5 gallon containers or larger, I don't lift them... That is for the veg rooms.
In the bloom room, I go by droop. I am not going as bone dry as I do in veg, but I am not doing the finger in the top either... I am watching for them to tell me that they need water. Usually there is one larger and more vigorous plant that can be your indicator... she will start drooping first, and that can be your clue to water the entire room, once you get everyone more or less in sync. I am looking at the lower leaves of these big plants as I enter the room, and if I see them hanging low, showing a lack of water, I hit the entire room. By this time you will have seen and attempted to establish a watering pattern in the bloom room, so you can anticipate this watering need fairly well... within a day or two usually.
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I'm in my own amended Soil. Some plants are great but the big 4ft++ plants always don't do well in flower. I highly suspect my watering techniques as my conditions are hot and humid all year round. Very unlike most growers.

I am very afraid of Soil getting too dry in flower, as my soil microbiology may suffer and that has caused huge issues before. Bud production and quality goes out the window.

My confusion is mainly because I've learnt from your tutorial that the roots needs oxygen that a dry cycle provides. The dry cycle also gives a PH cycle. But come flower, that seems to change? We keep the rootball moist now? But what about the oxygen then?

How else do I decide to water flowering plants If I don't want to stress them with the droop? The dropping of lower fans. If only the tips are dropping/clawing, then it could also be overwatering right? Underwatering is the drooping of entire leaf right?

So sorry for the questions. Just really wanna wrap this around my head. Sick of mixed results. Thank you a bunch!
 
GrowGlow said:
I'm in my own amended Soil. Some plants are great but the big 4ft++ plants always don't do well in flower. I highly suspect my watering techniques as my conditions are hot and humid all year round. Very unlike most growers.

I am very afraid of Soil getting too dry in flower, as my soil microbiology may suffer and that has caused huge issues before. Bud production and quality goes out the window.

My confusion is mainly because I've learnt from your tutorial that the roots needs oxygen that a dry cycle provides. The dry cycle also gives a PH cycle. But come flower, that seems to change? We keep the rootball moist now? But what about the oxygen then?

How else do I decide to water flowering plants If I don't want to stress them with the droop? The dropping of lower fans. If only the tips are dropping/clawing, then it could also be overwatering right? Underwatering is the drooping of entire leaf right?

So sorry for the questions. Just really wanna wrap this around my head. Sick of mixed results. Thank you a bunch!
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In this watering thread you have seen me change my opinions about aspects of this watering thing, two or three times. This thread is an exploration of my learning process as I have continued to study watering over a 10 year period of time. While several years ago I thought that pushing water at the plants in bloom and keeping the rootball moist was a great idea, in 2020 I have seen indications over several grows that there is a better way, and I have learned to appreciate the results that can be achieve by introducing minor stressors to these plants.

Yes, I am talking about the slumping drooping effect of the entire lower leaf sets that indicates the need for water, not the clawing at the ends of leaves. By the time this lower fan drooping is happening you have about 12 hours to go before all of the water is gone from that container. Waiting for that drooping indication is taking the water level in that container down to the last inch or two and by that time most of the roots have had a hit of oxygen. By this time in the grow, the very lowest roots, those that sit in wet most of the time, they have adapted to be able to survive in that very wet zone, and they stay healthy and active, unlike what happens in veg.

The microbes can also survive much more of a drought than what we are considering here. Also realize that in a normal watering cycle, the top 2/3 of the container gets pretty darn dry. If this was going to kill microbes, we would all be in trouble, and container growing would not work. Thankfully, those little beasties are a lot more resilient than that, and they can simply hibernate until water arrives again, and then they spring right back into action. We do not need to keep our soil moist in order to protect microbes. Besides that, there are many places to hide in that soil where water remains in small amounts, and in those little pockets inside the perlite and other organics, the microbes are still going strong. Give them water and 20 minutes or so to reproduce, and the population starts doubling exponentially.

There have been a lot of studies about the effects of stressors on these plants, and one of the most common stressors is drought. In veg we see that this stressor causes the plant to grow more roots as a response. What is happening in bloom when we do this, since the roots have pretty much stopped growing? This, I believe, is when the plants produce their defence to the drought, more resin and more trichomes. Some people believe in really sending their plants into stress with extended drought toward the end of the grow to increase trichomes. I have realized that this can also be done all through bloom, without detrimental effects.

So is the droop really an indication of stress, or simply a physical reaction to the plant not being able to draw up as much water as it could when a larger percentage of the roots were seeing water? I am beginning to believe that this is really not stressing out the plant as much as we might think, and that the leaves dropping below the horizontal is simply a visual indicator that we can observe to gain knowledge as to the water levels in that container. If you let the droop go up to the top, with actual trunk bending WILT happening next, that surely is stress that we should try to avoid... but catching it early as the water pressure in the trunk just starts to drop... I don't think it is a biggie, and I think it grows more trichomes.
 
Emilya said:
In this watering thread you have seen me change my opinions about aspects of this watering thing, two or three times. This thread is an exploration of my learning process as I have continued to study watering over a 10 year period of time. While several years ago I thought that pushing water at the plants in bloom and keeping the rootball moist was a great idea, in 2020 I have seen indications over several grows that there is a better way, and I have learned to appreciate the results that can be achieve by introducing minor stressors to these plants.

Yes, I am talking about the slumping drooping effect of the entire lower leaf sets that indicates the need for water, not the clawing at the ends of leaves. By the time this lower fan drooping is happening you have about 12 hours to go before all of the water is gone from that container. Waiting for that drooping indication is taking the water level in that container down to the last inch or two and by that time most of the roots have had a hit of oxygen. By this time in the grow, the very lowest roots, those that sit in wet most of the time, they have adapted to be able to survive in that very wet zone, and they stay healthy and active, unlike what happens in veg.

The microbes can also survive much more of a drought than what we are considering here. Also realize that in a normal watering cycle, the top 2/3 of the container gets pretty darn dry. If this was going to kill microbes, we would all be in trouble, and container growing would not work. Thankfully, those little beasties are a lot more resilient than that, and they can simply hibernate until water arrives again, and then they spring right back into action. We do not need to keep our soil moist in order to protect microbes. Besides that, there are many places to hide in that soil where water remains in small amounts, and in those little pockets inside the perlite and other organics, the microbes are still going strong. Give them water and 20 minutes or so to reproduce, and the population starts doubling exponentially.

There have been a lot of studies about the effects of stressors on these plants, and one of the most common stressors is drought. In veg we see that this stressor causes the plant to grow more roots as a response. What is happening in bloom when we do this, since the roots have pretty much stopped growing? This, I believe, is when the plants produce their defence to the drought, more resin and more trichomes. Some people believe in really sending their plants into stress with extended drought toward the end of the grow to increase trichomes. I have realized that this can also be done all through bloom, without detrimental effects.

So is the droop really an indication of stress, or simply a physical reaction to the plant not being able to draw up as much water as it could when a larger percentage of the roots were seeing water? I am beginning to believe that this is really not stressing out the plant as much as we might think, and that the leaves dropping below the horizontal is simply a visual indicator that we can observe to gain knowledge as to the water levels in that container. If you let the droop go up to the top, with actual trunk bending WILT happening next, that surely is stress that we should try to avoid... but catching it early as the water pressure in the trunk just starts to drop... I don't think it is a biggie, and I think it grows more trichomes.
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So you're saying the same strategy from Veg to bloom but with a different mindset?

Due to my naturally hot climate, I worry I may not have 12 hours before real stress occurs. Would you agree to checking top soil + feeling bottom fabric or the bottom edge for moisture to determine watering needs?

I currently have 4 x 10 gallon fabric pots in a 5×5. Two are growing beautifully but two more are showing me clawing bottom fans. Been giving lesser and lesser water. No water the last 3 days. I'm not sure when I should water?
 
GrowGlow said:
So you're saying the same strategy from Veg to bloom but with a different mindset?

Due to my naturally hot climate, I worry I may not have 12 hours before real stress occurs. Would you agree to checking top soil + feeling bottom fabric or the bottom edge for moisture to determine watering needs?

I currently have 4 x 10 gallon fabric pots in a 5×5. Two are growing beautifully but two more are showing me clawing bottom fans. Been giving lesser and lesser water. No water the last 3 days. I'm not sure when I should water?
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Not quite, but close. In veg, since I can lift and evaluate each plant, I go right down to dry as the sahara on each one, each time. In bloom, I am going by one or two indicator plants and then watering the entire room... going "dry" is not nearly as critical. Mind you, I am going dry a few times at least with all of them in bloom a couple of times, because I believe it adds trichomes, but I am a bit more liberal with the watering while in bloom. Also, each of my plants have grown to this point using my methods and they all have very strong root systems, so there is water usage consistency across the room.

Fabric containers dry out not just from the top down, but also from the sides, inward. Feeling the outer edge of the bag isn't going to tell you much about how much water is sitting in the core, especially in that hot climate of yours. Show me a picture of your lower fans exhibiting the problem so I can get a better idea what is going on. It is not uncommon for a couple of plants in a tent to act differently than the others and sometimes you have to break the the trouble makers out of a "watering the whole room" scenario so they can get intensive care.

You say you are giving lesser and lesser water and no water in 3 days... have you been watering every day or not watering to runoff each time? By the way, 3 days between waterings in a 10 gallon pot is optimal and nothing to worry about. I am going 4-5 days in 5 gallon containers right now.

You seem reluctant to trust your ability to read the plants so as to determine when they need water. That really is the very best way to do this thing. You can rely on moisture meters or dipsticks or the calendar, but it is always best to let the plants decide things, not us. The guy I reference in my signature lines, Rusty, grows in the desert somewhere in Nevada. It is truly hot at his house, and yet he is still able to grow these plants well. Outside I know that he waters every day because the plants suck it right up. I am sure that even in your climate, you will be able to find a routine that works, based on your visual observations as to what is going on. Think about the folks in 25 or 100 gallon containers... you know they are not lifting those pots. Trust your eye. The plants are talking to you... you just have to see what they are trying to say.
 
Emilya said:
Not quite, but close. In veg, since I can lift and evaluate each plant, I go right down to dry as the sahara on each one, each time. In bloom, I am going by one or two indicator plants and then watering the entire room... going "dry" is not nearly as critical. Mind you, I am going dry a few times at least with all of them in bloom a couple of times, because I believe it adds trichomes, but I am a bit more liberal with the watering while in bloom. Also, each of my plants have grown to this point using my methods and they all have very strong root systems, so there is water usage consistency across the room.

Fabric containers dry out not just from the top down, but also from the sides, inward. Feeling the outer edge of the bag isn't going to tell you much about how much water is sitting in the core, especially in that hot climate of yours. Show me a picture of your lower fans exhibiting the problem so I can get a better idea what is going on. It is not uncommon for a couple of plants in a tent to act differently than the others and sometimes you have to break the the trouble makers out of a "watering the whole room" scenario so they can get intensive care.

You say you are giving lesser and lesser water and no water in 3 days... have you been watering every day or not watering to runoff each time? By the way, 3 days between waterings in a 10 gallon pot is optimal and nothing to worry about. I am going 4-5 days in 5 gallon containers right now.

You seem reluctant to trust your ability to read the plants so as to determine when they need water. That really is the very best way to do this thing. You can rely on moisture meters or dipsticks or the calendar, but it is always best to let the plants decide things, not us. The guy I reference in my signature lines, Rusty, grows in the desert somewhere in Nevada. It is truly hot at his house, and yet he is still able to grow these plants well. Outside I know that he waters every day because the plants suck it right up. I am sure that even in your climate, you will be able to find a routine that works, based on your visual observations as to what is going on. Think about the folks in 25 or 100 gallon containers... you know they are not lifting those pots. Trust your eye. The plants are talking to you... you just have to see what they are trying to say.
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Thank you from the bottom of my heart! God bless you my Lady!

I've had to self learn due to being in prohibition land and keeping social circle to a zero. I grow for meds being a C survivor. Its been a tough road and the forums are all I've got. Have yet to see a real life plant other than mine. So anyone who takes the trouble like you do to enlighten me, makes me feel very much indebted! The plant has done do much for me, I really should learn to properly grow them lol.

Will take the pics as soon as I can. I'm pretty sure I overwatered. I gave each pot a good soak with AACT right before flip. Was about 4litres per pot cos it was 10% and I was a dumbass lol. Since then, I've given 1.25l on average every other day for about 3 weeks. I wanted to keep them moist. I see how dumb I was in hindsight. I was pretty much watering when top inch was dry but with lesser amounts. Again, to keep them moist…sigh I know.

It could've been worse I guess. Not too late I hope. Gonna let them really dry out this time then slowly water to saturation. Like one cup at a time. Will look for the real droop.

I actually think they already look better after just 1 day of not watering. A little less clawing already. Will update. Really close to bed time now. Timezones…lol

:Namaste::Namaste::Namaste:
 
GrowGlow said:
Thank you from the bottom of my heart! God bless you my Lady!

I've had to self learn due to being in prohibition land and keeping social circle to a zero. I grow for meds being a C survivor. Its been a tough road and the forums are all I've got. Have yet to see a real life plant other than mine. So anyone who takes the trouble like you do to enlighten me, makes me feel very much indebted! The plant has done do much for me, I really should learn to properly grow them lol.

Will take the pics as soon as I can. I'm pretty sure I overwatered. I gave each pot a good soak with AACT right before flip. Was about 4litres per pot cos it was 10% and I was a dumbass lol. Since then, I've given 1.25l on average every other day for about 3 weeks. I wanted to keep them moist. I see how dumb I was in hindsight. I was pretty much watering when top inch was dry but with lesser amounts. Again, to keep them moist…sigh I know.

It could've been worse I guess. Not too late I hope. Gonna let them really dry out this time then slowly water to saturation. Like one cup at a time. Will look for the real droop.

I actually think they already look better after just 1 day of not watering. A little less clawing already. Will update. Really close to bed time now. Timezones…lol

:Namaste::Namaste::Namaste:
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You got this now... I see that the light just came on. :) :peace: :love:
 
Should I wait another day? Looks droopy. Lifted the pot a little and put my finger at the middle part. Just a slight moist feeling. Only this one is showing drooping but she's also the worst looking. I'll probably water Just this one.
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yes, you have an overall droop that extends from the bottom all the way to the top. At the moment, there is no way to discern whether you have a lower leaf droop indicating a need to water. When the plant becomes healthier, or in other words, when the lower roots dry out enough to get some oxygen, the water uptake will dramatically increase, and with that you will find that the upper leaves start reaching up toward the light, certainly raising above horizontal or below the horizontal plain like yours are doing now. Your plants still have an overwatered look to them because of this overall complaining reaction, so yes, hold out a bit longer. Watch for the top leaves to rise up as the process continues.
 
Emilya said:
yes, you have an overall droop that extends from the bottom all the way to the top. At the moment, there is no way to discern whether you have a lower leaf droop indicating a need to water. When the plant becomes healthier, or in other words, when the lower roots dry out enough to get some oxygen, the water uptake will dramatically increase, and with that you will find that the upper leaves start reaching up toward the light, certainly raising above horizontal or below the horizontal plain like yours are doing now. Your plants still have an overwatered look to them because of this overall complaining reaction, so yes, hold out a bit longer. Watch for the top leaves to rise up as the process continues.
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Damn…I went and watered that one plant but left the rest alone. Only 3 litres though. Very slowly. Slight runoff was sucked back in soon enough.

Sorry I didn't wait for your reply. Next watering I'll patiently wait for signs from the plant.
 
Good... you will be able to see a good comparison between those that didnt get watered and the one that did.
 
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