The Perpetual Healing Garden - SweetSue's Joyful Return

AKgramma said:
I am REALLY interested in your results from the side-by-side comparison of not training/trimming vs training trimming.
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It should be interesting AKgramma. I've grown both ways, but never the same strain under the exact conditions. It was too good an opportunity to pass up. It was sweet to have them be Carnivals too.

I'll tell you, I like Carnival so much I may have to always have another up and coming. I've considered doing a grow with Carnivals in both tents. :laughtwo: There're other strains I'm anxious to try though, so I'll resist that urge. That Pineapple Fields Shiggity's so fond of and the Lemon Skunk arteekay and Jay grew are waaaay too tempting to put off much longer. I may spring for the seeds next month, just to have them around when space opens up.

So many strains, so little grow space. :laughtwo:
 
Nice job on catching the mites early! :welldone:

FYI...especially since you grew those from seed and not clones, it's likely those spider mites came in with a bad bag of soil, so keep an eye on your other plants, too! ;)
 
Mr. Krip said:
Nice job on catching the mites early! :welldone:

FYI...especially since you grew those from seed and not clones, it's likely those spider mites came in with a bad bag of soil, so keep an eye on your other plants, too! ;)
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Thanks, over-achieving guardian angel who obviously adores me, thank God. :battingeyelashes:

I built that soil myself, and the last batch was made with peat moss that'd been sitting on the balcony. The same peat moss that I purchased for my kit soil, so if you're correct it means it could potentially effect all of my soil. :rofl: Yes, that struck me as funny. I'd have thought they'd have reared their ugly heads long before this. Well, it had been sitting out there for over a year when I got into it for the last batch of soil.

I'm up to the challenge. I'm hoping I nipped it at the bud. Thanks for the heads up. :battingeyelashes: :green_heart:
 
SweetSue said:
Thanks, over-achieving guardian angel who obviously adores me, thank God. :battingeyelashes:

I built that soil myself, and the last batch was made with peat moss that'd been sitting on the balcony. The same peat moss that I purchased for my kit soil, so if you're correct it means it could potentially effect all of my soil. :rofl: Yes, that struck me as funny. I'd have thought they'd have reared their ugly heads long before this. Well, it had been sitting out there for over a year when I got into it for the last batch of soil.

I'm up to the challenge. I'm hoping I nipped it at the bud. Thanks for the heads up. :battingeyelashes: :green_heart:
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I am sworn to protect the Queen! :cheesygrinsmiley:

If you had the peat moss sitting outside for a year, it's entirely possible it wasn't in the original mix, but got in while sitting on the balcony. It's certainly worth keeping a close eye anywhere you used that moss recently.

For the age old question of, "which came first, the spider mite or the egg?", the answer, in this case, is the mite since those eggs didn't lay themselves! :rofl:
 
Would I be well-advised to cook that peat moss for future use? It's inert, so I can't see how that could be a problem. Hmmm...... Al Jarreau Love Songs at 3:30 in the morning. That's a new one girl. Nice lyrics.

Sorry, got distracted. :laughtwo:

Edit: The Queen..... :rofl:
 
SweetSue said:
Would I be well-advised to cook that peat moss for future use? It's inert, so I can't see how that could be a problem. Hmmm...... Al Jarreau Love Songs at 3:30 in the morning. That's a new one girl. Nice lyrics.

Sorry, got distracted. :laughtwo:

Edit: The Queen..... :rofl:
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It probably couldn't hurt, especially if you're fairly certain that's where they came from. I think most important would be to isolate any of the infected plants, to be sure it doesn't spread. Also, a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed on the plants will kill the mites and eggs.

Here's info on how to get rid of them:

How to Get Rid of Spider Mites

Getting rid of spider mites (often incorrectly spelled spidermites)
from your garden is priority number one if you’re recognized a
spider mite infestation because in the world of horticulture there
are mites and then there are spider mites, or what we can call the
two-spotted mite. Spider mite populations grow so quickly that often
times a farmer or gardener is caught off guard. Warm, dry temperatures
make the perfect climate for the spider mite’s reproductive cycle,
which leaves your plants susceptible not only to drought but also to
the spider mite’s tenacious appetite.

If you’ve noticed the signs of a mite infestation described on your left,
and you’re dealing primarily with flowers, it may be in your best
interest to turn to a miticide for the quickest and most effective control.
However, if you’re a farmer or a gardener tending vegetables and herbs,
you may want to consider an integrated pest management approach, which is
what we’ll explain below: how to get rid of spider mites and control
spider mite populations without insecticides or miticides, as the case may be.

The first step toward getting rid of spider mites is to isolate the plants,
but keep the infested plants clustered.Isolating your plants will reduce
the risk of spider mite migration. Spider mites are quite adept at riding air
currents to and from the plants they wish to feed on. Keeping your plants in
clusters will help retain moisture by reducing airflow between the plants.
Spider mites are not very keen on moist climates; they need the evaporative
properties of an arid climate to reproduce more efficiently.

Retaining humidity and moisture is a good way to get rid of spider mites.
This can be accomplished in several ways. If you’re tending potted plants,
keeping your pots over a platter of water will help keep immediate moisture
levels up. If you’re tending to garden plants, you may want to consider putting
in peat moss to fill the gaps between plants. Of course, the best way to
keep humidity and moisture levels high is to bring your plants indoors where
they can be misted with very cold water on a regular basis (2-3 times a day).
The same treatment can be done to outdoor plants with firm but careful sprayings
to help drown the mites and remove them from the plants.

Keeping plants out of the late afternoon sun and/or arid weather is
perhaps your best defense against spider mites.This may not be possible
for those of us who cannot remove plants via pots, but any way to provide
shade to damaged or weakened plants during the warmer hours of the day will help.
For indoor plants, drawing the shades or moving plants out of direct sunlight
should help dissuade spider mites from taking up permanent residency. You may
also want to consider setting a humidifier next to any affected plants.

It has been suggested that spraying plants with a 1:1 mixture of alcohol and
water will kill spider mites on contact. Rubbing alcohol, like any alcohol
for any creature, is poisonous in high dosages, and it evaporates quickly doing
little damage to the plant it’s been sprayed on. Some people suggest a 1:3
mixture of rubbing alcohol to water, but the strong the mixture,
the more certain you are to get as many mites as possible. Make sure to cover
the entire plant, focusing on the bottoms of the leaves where spider
mites tend to hang out.

If all else fails, miticides are, of course, one of the most effective forms
of spider mite treatments and the fastest way to get rid of spider mites—usually .
It all depends on the kind of miticide that you choose. Some of the most common
miticides are Avid, Kelthane, and just about anything that contains pyrethoids.
These chemicals should be applied once every five days until all signs of
spider mite infestation have gone. Again, people gardening vegetables and herbs
should try every other avenue before using miticides, including the biological
mite controls described below.

Biological Mite Control

Predatory mites are, in many new age gardener’s opinions, the best way to control spider mites. Predatory mites are mites that do not feed on plants but on other mites, like the two-spotted mite, for instance. Predatory mites can usually be mail-ordered from a horticultural warehouse or purchased online from any number of online gardening vendors. For the sake of brevity, we will cover just three of the most common predatory mites used to kill and control spider mites:

Phytoseiulus persimilis is referred to by the Cornell University Extension office as “ one of the mainstays of greenhouse integrated pest management.” The great thing about this species of mite is that it cleans up after itself once the spider mite population is gone—cannibalizing on each other, thus decimating their own populations.

Metaseiulus occidentalis is another common predatory mite used to kill spider mites. It is an effective biological control only if temperatures are on average between 44 degrees and 89 degrees Fahrenheit.

Phytoseiulus longpipes is essentially a variant of the Phytoseiulus persimilis mite brought in from Africa which can stand warmer ambient temperatures than its North American cousins. Longpipes is seeing a gain in popularity among gardeners who would rather deploy a biological spider mite control agent than a chemical or physical control.
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I think catching them early puts you way ahead of the game, so +REPS on that! ;)
 
Well, we have a mystery then. My plant doesn't live in an encironment conducive to a spider mites infestation. It sits on a SWICK. It's always moist. Climate is controlled most often around 73-75. Hmmmm......

Thankfully the two plants that'd been roommates are a stunted DDA and a seedling Industrial Plant, so they'll be easy to check. The Med GOM 1.0 is completely isolated and the leaves were buried in the trash and tied off for removal from site.

I have some 50/50 on hand. I'll spray her down tomorrow.
 
*humming a happy tune*

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My initial plan was to germinate and early veg in the closet, but Mother Nature had other plans. Lol!

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This'll work in a pinch. Later on I can set up a CFL array for the tent to get through the early stages. I want tight nodes on these two.

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A little creativity to hide the glare of the lights.

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That would've been unbearable in the mirrors. This worked well as a temporary spot. I'm up when lights go off at 3 AM, so I'm not concerned with keeping them here a few days so I can watch them more closely. I'm sure they'll need help with the helmets too.

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Did you hear the universe sigh in relief? :laughtwo: :green_heart:
 
Mr. Krip said:
It probably couldn't hurt, especially if you're fairly certain that's where they came from. I think most important would be to isolate any of the infected plants, to be sure it doesn't spread. Also, a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alcohol and water sprayed on the plants will kill the mites and eggs.

Here's info on how to get rid of them:



I think catching them early puts you way ahead of the game, so +REPS on that! ;)
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+ reps for the spider mite info Mr Krip
 
Noob4x4grow said:
Nice tap roots on those Carnivals Sue. Are we going big?
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As big as I can go. The tent is only 5.5' high and the light can only go so high, so I'll need to train them lower initially than I did my first. I've been watching another stealthy grower do an amazing job with his, so I'm confident I can pull it off. I'm hoping for 3-4 oz per.

I found out today that they gave my cousin radiation and they're sending her home. If she survives through harvest one of these will be designated for oil for her, if she wants it. I'm going to have to do a bit of family education to get my foot through that door.
 
Noob4x4grow said:
Good luck. If she's in Texas, you'll need it. :rofl:
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Having lived in the great state of Texas I can appreciate the thought. :laughtwo: She lives here in Pittsburgh.
 
Just a quick question sue, on the germination for your seeds. From the time you start them to the time you plop them in soil, about how long is it? We soak for 16-24 hours then paper towel for a day or two then to soil. Now we don't use a baggie or anything. Just curious if that speeds it up or not. Everyone has different ways of doing it and I don't like waiting a week for them to pop lol.
 
nismo12 said:
Just a quick question sue, on the germination for your seeds. From the time you start them to the time you plop them in soil, about how long is it? We soak for 16-24 hours then paper towel for a day or two then to soil. Now we don't use a baggie or anything. Just curious if that speeds it up or not. Everyone has different ways of doing it and I don't like waiting a week for them to pop lol.
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Hey Nismo, I have been trying different germination methods and the most successful one for me has been soaking in paper towel for 12 hours and then placing them scar down and point up inside a rapid rooter cube as far as the hole goes.( this ensures the root exits the pointed tip and must turn downward. This gives it great leverage moving up and out of the hole and removes the seed coat). Then I pinch off some cube and stuff it in the hole. I put a humidity dome on and wet the cubes every day.

The last two times I have gotten 100% success with this method. and you can plant the rapid rooter directly into the soil or any hydro after the roots show. And an added benefit is that in those 25 plants I have never had a seed coat make it out of the cube.

I dont like to confuse the root by letting them show before planting. If you do I think it weakens the plant. The root grows sideways on the paper towel. but gravity is pulling down. This can be confusing and when planted you can see all kinds of weird root formations. Goins sideways or even up in a circle before going down. i wish I could find the article I once read that said you get more females if the root can go down 6 inches before turning. Makes sense as this would tell the plant the soil is deep enough to support growth.
 
nismo12 said:
Just a quick question sue, on the germination for your seeds. From the time you start them to the time you plop them in soil, about how long is it? We soak for 16-24 hours then paper towel for a day or two then to soil. Now we don't use a baggie or anything. Just curious if that speeds it up or not. Everyone has different ways of doing it and I don't like waiting a week for them to pop lol.
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I can't resist:

1) put seed in soil 1/4" down
2) keep moist
3) 3 days later do the happy dance

It's cake
 
nismo12 said:
Just a quick question sue, on the germination for your seeds. From the time you start them to the time you plop them in soil, about how long is it? We soak for 16-24 hours then paper towel for a day or two then to soil. Now we don't use a baggie or anything. Just curious if that speeds it up or not. Everyone has different ways of doing it and I don't like waiting a week for them to pop lol.
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I started out following B A R's technique, but bypassed the Rockwool. I drop the seed overnight. The next morning, assuming they sink, I fold up a paper towel, stick it down into the shot glass to suck up the water, place the seeds inside and pop it all into a ziplock bag. That bag goes into my dark box on top of the fridge. Almost every one is ready to go the following morning. I'd say about 36 hours, start to finish. They'll likely sprout by tomorrow morning, so the whole process takes less than three days.
 
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