The Joy Of Growing - SweetSue Goes Perpetual

Hey Sue, everything looking awesome and dank as always.
Mind sharing your drenches/tea regime with me? I have to set up a similar regime, and I know yours works. So please be my guide.
Muchas gracias, bella mujer.

Here you go you sweet-talker you. :battingeyelashes: :Love: This is the page I put together for setting up a no-till. The drench schedule is section three.

SETTING UP A LOS NO-TILL GARDEN

I'm assuming you have already decided on the location and have determined the pots needed and the necessary lighting and climate requirements. Let's set to work with the other essentials - soil building and maintenance.

I see a series of very methodical steps that can be taken to set up and maintain an organic no till with minimal effort. It's really as easy as 1-2-3-4.

1. Build the soil.
2. Set up a SWICK watering system to spare yourself the frustration of under or over watering
3. Develop a regular plan for amendments and additives using teas, drenches and foliar sprays.
4. Prepare for the next grow

STEP ONE: BUILD THE SOIL
The Basic Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for growing cannabis (in his own words):

"Equal parts of Sphagnum peat moss, some aeration deal (pumice, rice hulls, lava rock - whatever is sitting in the garage) and finally some mix of humus - my compost, worm castings some black leaf mold I bought from the local 'worm guy'
To each 1 c.f. of this mix I add the following:
1/2 cup organic Neem meal
1/2 cup organic Kelp meal
1/2 cup Crab meal (or Crustacean meal when available - it has Shrimp meal with the Crab meal. It's a local product from the fisheries on the Oregon & Washington Coasts)
4 cups of some minerals - rock dust

After the plant is in the final container I top-dress with my worm castings at 2" or so and then I hit it with Aloe vera juice and Comfrey extract. Or Borage. Or Stinging Nettle. Or Horsetail ferns. Whatever is ready.

The Rock Dust Recipe
4x - Glacial Rock Dust - Canadian Glacial (Gaia Green label)
1x - Bentonite - from the pottery supply store
1x - Oyster Shell Powder - the standard product from San Francisco Bay
1x - Basalt - from Redmond, Oregon (new product at Concentrates - about $18.00) ."

I believe that this recipe allows for some substitutions and that the biggest thing is to stick to the 1/3 SPM, 1/3 aeration, 1/3 humus and the amendments at the specified ratios. I have seen people (including myself) vary the actually "rock dusts" but don't if you can help it, and certainly don't omit the oyster shell flour in place of something else.

Living organic soil is very rewarding to grow in, give it a try, no one has ever looked back after going this route."

My only addition to this would be to add mycorrhizal fungi innoculant to the soil mix in advance of planting, or dust the roots with it before transplanting.

STEP TWO: A WATERING PLAN - SETTING UP THE SWICK
A SWICK is a self watering technique that allows the plants to essentially water themselves. The perlite that fills the reservoir wicks the water up to the pots and the extra 25% increase in aeration material in your soil mix wicks the water up into the soil where the roots can continuously access the ready water supply.

The depth of your reservoir is a personal matter. As long as you can keep the water level 1" to 2" below the bottom of the pot so you're not ever sitting in water you'll be fine. A shallow reservoir simply requires you to keep it topped off with greater diligence than the freedom afforded by a deeper one. Large kitty litter trays work well for this.

STEP THREE: CONTINUOUSLY AMENDING THE SOIL
This is my dream watering schedule. For my grow it wasn't necessary to water from the top once I installed the SWICK system, so this became my plan for drenches.

Water seedlings with coconut water or rainwater only.

The watering/amending schedule is done consistently, regardless of where the plant is in its life cycle.

Two to three waterings a week (basically every other day: I did twice a week)
- one enzyme tea watering (measurements for one gallon)
* 1 TBS sprouts, puréed
* 10 ml Fulpower fulvic acid
* 5 ml Agsil

- one rainwater watering
- one coconut/aloe watering
* 1/4 c fresh, young coconut water
* 1/4 tsp 200x aloe vera powder
* 5 ml Agsil
Repeat indefinitely.

Every three weeks add 1/4 tsp TM7 to 2-1/2 gallons water.

Beginning when there are four nodes, add bio accumulator teas.

With new soil do weekly application of two alternating teas
- 2-3 tsp neem meal + 1-2 tsp kelp bubbled in a half gal water for 24 hrs.
* dilute to make 2.5 gal water
* add 1/4 tsp aloe + 10 ml fulpower per gallon
- same measurements using alfalfa instead of neem

The estimated minimal cost of beginning this regime:
- $ 15 Malted barley (2.5 pounds; 4 oz/cup)
- $ 22 Coconut Water Powder (1/2 # = 75 gal @ 1/4 c. per gal.)
- $ 22 200x aloe powder
- $ 26 Fulpower (quart)
- $ 14.20 Agsil (pound)
- $ 13 TM7 (100 gm bag)
- $ 13 Neem/karanja (2.5 # = 5-6 cups)
- $ 14.06 Kelp meal (3# = 6 cups)

There are many plant-based amendments that can be used to fill the voids until you can afford to get these items picked up. For example, it's possible to substitute corn meal, molasses, kelp, equisetum, or camomile for plant immunity in place of neem/karanja, although you should eventually purchase them. Camomile in particular is legendary for its immunity properties. Sprouted corn can be substituted for coconut water to supply cytokinins.

Notes on this list of amendments:
- Priority should be given to coconut water, aloe vera juice and kelp meal
- Secondary priority to Fulpower (fulvic acid) and malted barley grain
- Third would be neem/karanja meal, TM7 and Agsil

STEP FOUR: SETTING UP FOR THE NEXT RUN
When you harvest, simply cut the main stalk above the soil surface and leave it. No need to remove the old root ball. Those old roots will eventually decompose into the soil matrix, leaving an internal network for additional aeration and pathways for nutrients to shuttle to the new roots.

The basic process is to gently move the old mulch to one side, add the top dressing, shift to the other side and repeat, then finish with additional mulch material. You want to dress with 2-4" of good quality vermicompost and any other thing you might want to add, as in some rock dust (granite or limestone are particularly beneficial) or some Yum Yum Mix, like I used.

If you have enough down time, maybe add an ACT or a SST, just for variety and why not? It never hurts to add something different every now and then, as long as it's organic in nature and used in moderation.

That's it. Top dress and water in. Plant and grow.

Easy peasy all the way.

:Namaste:
 
Auto Jock Horror x Auto Amnesia (Day 36)

I'm gonna make some special concessions for this one. I need a few days to have her hanging to dry, so I may hold off to the last possible second to harvest her and then take the tent down in a bit of a rush. I'll just get other chores I'd have done finished up earlier so the tent deconstruction can be all that's left.

I can see my last day is going to be spent jarring. :laughtwo:

She had a TransWater drench.

image3085.jpeg


image3087.jpeg


image3088.jpeg


image3090.jpeg


 
Jamaican Dream (Day 63)

She's working it as hard as she can. Starting to frost. It's gonna be a race. :straightface:

image3089.jpeg


image3091.jpeg


image3092.jpeg


image3093.jpeg


Yeah, some of the leaf tips have suffered, :straightface: but the benefits are worth it.

image3095.jpeg


Thankfully, I have two more seeds, so someday, when I won't be running of on the vacation of a lifetime, I can try again. :battingeyelashes:

A couple more drenches tomorrow and most of them are prepped for their CAT drenches to start within a week. It's going to get really exciting in here after we start the CATs. I'm accelerating the timeframes a bit, but it is what it is. It appears I'm going to be very pleased with the end results.

One more update post later. I need to get dinner going. I keep forgetting I need to eat! :laughtwo: Then it's time for another session of Callanetics, so I'll try to get the update post done before then.

:ciao:
 
Saved for future reference, ty:thumb:

You're welcome Shaun. I'm thankful you can use it. I find it's good practice to toss it out there every once in a while, so I was glad the Roach requested part of it.
 
Here you go you sweet-talker you. :battingeyelashes: :Love: This is the page I put together for setting up a no-till. The drench schedule is section three.

SETTING UP A LOS NO-TILL GARDEN

I'm assuming you have already decided on the location and have determined the pots needed and the necessary lighting and climate requirements. Let's set to work with the other essentials - soil building and maintenance.

I see a series of very methodical steps that can be taken to set up and maintain an organic no till with minimal effort. It's really as easy as 1-2-3-4.

1. Build the soil.
2. Set up a SWICK watering system to spare yourself the frustration of under or over watering
3. Develop a regular plan for amendments and additives using teas, drenches and foliar sprays.
4. Prepare for the next grow

STEP ONE: BUILD THE SOIL
The Basic Clackamas Coots soil mix recipe for growing cannabis (in his own words):

"Equal parts of Sphagnum peat moss, some aeration deal (pumice, rice hulls, lava rock - whatever is sitting in the garage) and finally some mix of humus - my compost, worm castings some black leaf mold I bought from the local 'worm guy'
To each 1 c.f. of this mix I add the following:
1/2 cup organic Neem meal
1/2 cup organic Kelp meal
1/2 cup Crab meal (or Crustacean meal when available - it has Shrimp meal with the Crab meal. It's a local product from the fisheries on the Oregon & Washington Coasts)
4 cups of some minerals - rock dust

After the plant is in the final container I top-dress with my worm castings at 2" or so and then I hit it with Aloe vera juice and Comfrey extract. Or Borage. Or Stinging Nettle. Or Horsetail ferns. Whatever is ready.

The Rock Dust Recipe
4x - Glacial Rock Dust - Canadian Glacial (Gaia Green label)
1x - Bentonite - from the pottery supply store
1x - Oyster Shell Powder - the standard product from San Francisco Bay
1x - Basalt - from Redmond, Oregon (new product at Concentrates - about $18.00) ."

I believe that this recipe allows for some substitutions and that the biggest thing is to stick to the 1/3 SPM, 1/3 aeration, 1/3 humus and the amendments at the specified ratios. I have seen people (including myself) vary the actually "rock dusts" but don't if you can help it, and certainly don't omit the oyster shell flour in place of something else.

Living organic soil is very rewarding to grow in, give it a try, no one has ever looked back after going this route."

My only addition to this would be to add mycorrhizal fungi innoculant to the soil mix in advance of planting, or dust the roots with it before transplanting.

STEP TWO: A WATERING PLAN - SETTING UP THE SWICK
A SWICK is a self watering technique that allows the plants to essentially water themselves. The perlite that fills the reservoir wicks the water up to the pots and the extra 25% increase in aeration material in your soil mix wicks the water up into the soil where the roots can continuously access the ready water supply.

The depth of your reservoir is a personal matter. As long as you can keep the water level 1" to 2" below the bottom of the pot so you're not ever sitting in water you'll be fine. A shallow reservoir simply requires you to keep it topped off with greater diligence than the freedom afforded by a deeper one. Large kitty litter trays work well for this.

STEP THREE: CONTINUOUSLY AMENDING THE SOIL
This is my dream watering schedule. For my grow it wasn't necessary to water from the top once I installed the SWICK system, so this became my plan for drenches.

Water seedlings with coconut water or rainwater only.

The watering/amending schedule is done consistently, regardless of where the plant is in its life cycle.

Two to three waterings a week (basically every other day: I did twice a week)
- one enzyme tea watering (measurements for one gallon)
* 1 TBS sprouts, puréed
* 10 ml Fulpower fulvic acid
* 5 ml Agsil

- one rainwater watering
- one coconut/aloe watering
* 1/4 c fresh, young coconut water
* 1/4 tsp 200x aloe vera powder
* 5 ml Agsil
Repeat indefinitely.

Every three weeks add 1/4 tsp TM7 to 2-1/2 gallons water.

Beginning when there are four nodes, add bio accumulator teas.

With new soil do weekly application of two alternating teas
- 2-3 tsp neem meal + 1-2 tsp kelp bubbled in a half gal water for 24 hrs.
* dilute to make 2.5 gal water
* add 1/4 tsp aloe + 10 ml fulpower per gallon
- same measurements using alfalfa instead of neem

The estimated minimal cost of beginning this regime:
- $ 15 Malted barley (2.5 pounds; 4 oz/cup)
- $ 22 Coconut Water Powder (1/2 # = 75 gal @ 1/4 c. per gal.)
- $ 22 200x aloe powder
- $ 26 Fulpower (quart)
- $ 14.20 Agsil (pound)
- $ 13 TM7 (100 gm bag)
- $ 13 Neem/karanja (2.5 # = 5-6 cups)
- $ 14.06 Kelp meal (3# = 6 cups)

There are many plant-based amendments that can be used to fill the voids until you can afford to get these items picked up. For example, it's possible to substitute corn meal, molasses, kelp, equisetum, or camomile for plant immunity in place of neem/karanja, although you should eventually purchase them. Camomile in particular is legendary for its immunity properties. Sprouted corn can be substituted for coconut water to supply cytokinins.

Notes on this list of amendments:
- Priority should be given to coconut water, aloe vera juice and kelp meal
- Secondary priority to Fulpower (fulvic acid) and malted barley grain
- Third would be neem/karanja meal, TM7 and Agsil

STEP FOUR: SETTING UP FOR THE NEXT RUN
When you harvest, simply cut the main stalk above the soil surface and leave it. No need to remove the old root ball. Those old roots will eventually decompose into the soil matrix, leaving an internal network for additional aeration and pathways for nutrients to shuttle to the new roots.

The basic process is to gently move the old mulch to one side, add the top dressing, shift to the other side and repeat, then finish with additional mulch material. You want to dress with 2-4" of good quality vermicompost and any other thing you might want to add, as in some rock dust (granite or limestone are particularly beneficial) or some Yum Yum Mix, like I used.

If you have enough down time, maybe add an ACT or a SST, just for variety and why not? It never hurts to add something different every now and then, as long as it's organic in nature and used in moderation.

That's it. Top dress and water in. Plant and grow.

Easy peasy all the way.

:Namaste:

Thank you Sue, I will start sourcing everything
 
Lactobacillius Serum: Step Two

Back to fun and games. Let's start with why bother? From the Unconventional Gardener:

Plants — Growth Aid:
When added to water for plants, nutrient uptake efficiency is increased, which increases growth!

  • Improves growth of plants when applied as foliar spray and soil drench. Improves their efficiency in uptaking nutrients so naturally, growth is enhanced. With the use of these microorganisms, the nutrients you spray or drench to feed your plants become more bio-available and easily absorbable by the plants. Technically, you can say that plants do not use organic nutrients directly. Microorganisms convert organic nutrients to their inorganic constituents which the plants utilize. Utilizing microbes, you will notice better plant growth and health.


Disease Resistance:

  • This is a consequence of the increased efficiency of nutrients. More nutrients available at smaller metabolic cost.
  • Lacto suppresses harmful bacteria in food/water that animals consume, enhances their gut flora so that line of defense is working optimally, etc.


Aid Compost:
  • Mix 2tbsp/L and spray on compost pile to improve decomposition. This is a huge topic that will be expanded upon in another post.


Aid Organic Fertilizer:
Add 1-2tbsp per gallon water-nutrient solution. Lacto consumes organic nutrients making them bio-available to plant roots.

  • Plants don't use organic fertilizer! Microbes break it down to inorganic constituents, and plants take those up. This product makes that process more efficient.

On to Step Two. The rice wash had separated and now the challenge was to siphon the middle layer out. I used an eye dropper. Slow and tedious, but it got the job done and allowed me fine control in a shallow volume.

image3097.jpeg


I stopped at a shot glass full, because I only need so much of it this time. This is a run-through to convince myself that I can pull it off. Since it's used in a 20/1 ratio, this is going to last for a couple applications at least.

image3098.jpeg


Add 10 shot glasses of whole milk. This is the jar I knocked over in the sink. :straightface:

image3099.jpeg


Here's the replacement. I gave some thought to the need to be anaerobic and decided to do what my mother would have done, which was to seal it with plastic wrap, making sure to get a seal on the glass.

image3101.jpeg


image3102.jpeg


Sealed and set off to the side, but not out of sight. After about a week we'll have curds collect on the surface and we'll be ready for Step Three - finishing and using the serum.

image3103.jpeg


Such an easy process, for such tremendous payback. I feel like I've finally arrived. :laughtwo: Next biggie for me is some of that KashiGro. That stuff rocks!

 
The whole perpetual 389pages of reading was kind of intimidating, so i avoided you until getting my feet nice n wet. Toes are now wrinkled up and here i am! :byebye: look forward to following along

Are you telling me you read my whole journal?
 
If you need something to be anaerobic you can take a tea light and burn it until half the wax is gone. This makes it light enough to float. Place cooled tea light on top of plastic wrap inside your jar( which will support it anyway but better to be safe and use half empty tea light). light tea light and and let it go for a few seconds, then put the lid on top. The candle will burn almost all the oxygen inside then burn out and make a microaerobic environment. Not truly anaerobic but as close as you can get without fancy anaerobes packs.
 
If you need something to be anaerobic you can take a tea light and burn it until half the wax is gone. This makes it light enough to float. Place cooled tea light on top of plastic wrap inside your jar( which will support it anyway but better to be safe and use half empty tea light). light tea light and and let it go for a few seconds, then put the lid on top. The candle will burn almost all the oxygen inside then burn out and make a microaerobic environment. Not truly anaerobic but as close as you can get without fancy anaerobes packs.

Brilliant! I don't have any tea light candles, but I do have emergency candles which can be cut down small enough to do the job. Let me do that right now.

You keep being brilliant like that and your rep points are going to be through the roof, you know. :battingeyelashes:
 
Worked like a charm. The hardest part was getting the sawed-off candle to light, but once lit I gingerly dropped it into the jar and topped it with the lid. As soon as the oxygen was depleted the candle went out.

You are brilliant ShiggityFlip. Where did you learn that little trick?
 
Worked like a charm. The hardest part was getting the sawed-off candle to light, but once lit I gingerly dropped it into the jar and topped it with the lid. As soon as the oxygen was depleted the candle went out.

You are brilliant ShiggityFlip. Where did you learn that little trick?

It's a trick as much older than I am. Many old scientists would use that trick to create anaerobic conditions. It is actually even called a candle jar.
 
:laughtwo:
Nah, as much as id like too.. Thats not possible at this time. :(

@shiggity. Nice one! Nice...:thumb:

OK, I was concerned. As much info as there is in the pages, there's so much pain and grief it's difficult to get through. Then you're up against the fact that we obviously enjoy talking together and we fill pages like they were air. Which I guess they are here, huh? :laughtwo:

I always recommend you jump into real time. All the important stuff gets covered multiple times in the course of a grow, and even more so with a perpetual. So welcome to my happy little corner of our neighborhood. I've already shoved my way into the growing crowd at your yard, so we have ample opportunity to get to know each other. :battingeyelashes:
 
It's a trick as much older than I am. Many old scientists would use that trick to create anaerobic conditions. It is actually even called a candle jar.

As a trained teacher I already knew that but it was way back in the memory banks, since the only way I used my teaching certificate was to homeschool our children without interference from the local district. I don't recall an instance where we used this in our little learning adventure with the children.
 
Kalishnikova is a strain I've never heard of before. It does sound enticing.

Now that I've been here, I have my 'Happy' on!

Sue if you like mellow jazz, try Bob James Grand Piano Canyon... It is great for those laid back days when you want to listen to something different. His wife Hillary James also has a great album called Storm Front

See my Off topic journal for a groovy video

Kalishnikov is the K in AK47 (the rifle)

So I searched "Kalishnakova AK47 genetics" and see:

Kalishnikova is a cross of AK47 and White Widow
Kalishnakova AUTO is Kalishnakova x Green-o-matic (a cross of mutiple ruderalis)

I like the AK47 with small tight buds and one-hit-wonder strong sativa high. AK47 is easy to grow - I had excellent results in challenging circumstances.
My knockoff White Widow grow was on the edge of psychedelic. Mild auditory hallucinations the first few times smoking it.
I have no idea which of the 'White Widows' was the parent for Kalishnikova, but she has award winning parents.
 
Kalishnikov is the K in AK47 (the rifle)

So I searched "Kalishnakova AK47 genetics" and see:

Kalishnikova is a cross of AK47 and White Widow
Kalishnakova AUTO is Kalishnakova x Green-o-matic (a cross of mutiple ruderalis)

I like the AK47 with small tight buds and one-hit-wonder strong sativa high. AK47 is easy to grow - I had excellent results in challenging circumstances.
My knockoff White Widow grow was on the edge of psychedelic. Mild auditory hallucinations the first few times smoking it.
I have no idea which of the 'White Widows' was the parent for Kalishnikova, but she has award winning parents.

I'm getting ready to take my White Widow in the morning. You got me really excited about the smoke possibilities Rad. Thanks. :laughtwo:
 
Back
Top Bottom