The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

I just learned 2 cool brix tips.

1). If the lower leaves have higher brix readings than the upper leaves, you have a phosphorus deficiency.

2). The other is if you read your brix at about 5pm and then again a couple hours after dark, the later reading should be lower as once photosynthesis stops a trap-door like mechanism in the plant opens, and sugars dump down to the roots as exudates.

If brix doesn't drop on the later reading then the trap door isn't opening.

That indicates a boron deficiency.
 
Durban Poison. Day 3 of veg.
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They look so small in the 10gals.
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25! Sweet!
So early morning would be different than if taken in the afternoon with the trap door analogy going on at night? Cool!
 
Officially, brix should be taken at the most photosynthetic time of day (5pm-ish in summer) AND 2 hours after watering. It changes a fair bit throughout the day.

Also if you test at the regular time and for some reason it has dropped significantly, a storm is coming. Plants know, and send sugars down to be stored in the rootball so if a wind shears them off they have energy below to grow back.
 
We're back to rain and cloudy days. Next week I'll give it another looky. You have nice numbers!
 
StoneOtter said:
We're back to rain and cloudy days. Next week I'll give it another looky. You have nice numbers!
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Thanks Stone. I wish I could take credit but it's The Rev's recipe sitting in the desert sun.

Other than some fish ferts once in awhile when I remember to do it, all I do is water them.

We have heavy wildfire smoke this week so it will be interesting to see if that has an effect.

For those of you not following @StoneOtter grow he found a really good product to instantly raise brix from 3 to I believe 12.5 in a few days so if your brix are dangerously low and you are worried about bugs you should check his grow out.

Plus he has a very cool and unique strain from deep within African history. I'm very jealous! It's a cool tree.
 
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Day 12 in their forever homes. You get quite a variation in sizes when you aren't restricted to a solo cup. The biggest one in the front left will likely get topped tomorrow above the 3rd node. The other 3 will need a few more days for manifolding to begin.

I am also going to start 8 Kingdom Organics seeds today and sex them under 12/12.

4 will be Malawi Bhai Bhai and 4 will be Congo Bhai Bhai, in hopes of 2 females of each. Then do a clone grow.

NAME: Congo Bhai Bhai
BREEDER: KOS
GROWING/BREEDING STYLE: True Living Organics (TLO)
LINE: Cindy Congo x Burmese/Juicyfruit Thai
LIGHTING: MH/LED/T5
PHOTOPERIODS: Sprouting 16/8, Veg 18/6, Flowering 11.5/12.5
SMELLS: Skittles & Honey Oil
WEIGHT: Average to Good
FLOWERING TIME INDOORS: 70 – 77 Days
SATIVA/INDICA/RUDI RATIOS: Sativa Dominant 85%+
HARVEST OUTDOORS: Unknown but likely around last week of October—in northern hemisphere
GERMINATION RATE: 90%+
GENERATION: F1 4-Way Hybrid
BREEDING STYLE: Normal/Regular seeds
SEXUAL RATIOS M/F: 50/50
STRETCH: 2.5x

Description
Father:
The (paternal P1) father is my Cindy Congo. 99% pure sativa that packs a very powerful punch with very long legs—3 hours—I am very familiar with this genotype/hybrid so known marker expressions allowed me to select for largest yielding with greatest resin production potential genetically. He was a stud all the way around and was put through (his clones) tests like drought, excessive pruning, and over-topping to check vigor reserves.

Mother:
The female was hybridized by a good old friend of mine, Opie Kenope. He crossed an old-school Burmese (back from when it was still called Burma) with a Juicyfruit Thai. These are fairly incredible hybrids, especially for sativa lovers, but due to the Juicyfruit Thai being the Canadian hybrid and not the one from Holland, there is some impressive indica facets to the high-type. Also, the yields are very good with these, large dense buds dripping resin. I coined the name for this cross calling it “Bhai Bhai” a whimsical contraction of Burmese and Thai.

Congo Bhai Bhai Hybrid:
The bit of indica in this hybrid really will make for a complex high-type and while fully a sativa dominant she will have a small body hit as well. Because of the Burmese and Congo in this hybrid I would not recommend this for those of you who get paranoid on sativas. The Burmese especially is notorious for her edgy energetic side. Both the Cindy Congo male and the Bhai Bhai females were easy as a dream to clone and rooted easily and fast. The flavors and smells of most individuals will range between hash/honey oil and Skittles, a real exotic treat for sure, and both Bhai Bhai and the Congo are insanely potent parents—yikes!


NAME: Malawi Bhai Bhai
BREEDER: KOS
GROWING/BREEDING STYLE: True Living Organics (TLO)
LINE: Cherry Malawi x Bhai Bhai
LIGHTING: MH/LED/T5
PHOTOPERIODS: Sprouting 16/8, Veg 18/6, Flowering 11.5/12.5
SMELLS: Candy Sweet Facets; Red Starburst & Honey Oil
WEIGHT: Bigguns
FLOWERING TIME INDOORS: 70 Days
SATIVA/INDICA/RUDI RATIOS: Sativa Dominant 75%+
HARVEST OUTDOORS: Unknown but likely 1st week of November—in northern hemisphere
GERMINATION RATE: 90%+
GENERATION: F1 Hybrid
BREEDING STYLE: Normal/Regular seeds
SEXUAL RATIOS M/F: 50/50 Usually
STRETCH: 2.5x to 3x

Description
Father:
The (paternal P1) father is my Cherry Malawi; a hybrid of landrace Malawi I acquired from South Africa over a decade ago from “Tokestar”. And my old F3 Cherry Bomb out of Hawaii, also acquired over a decade ago. This male brings some serious resistances, vigor, and heartiness to the hybrid; along with massive resin production and high yields. Also, the Cherry Malawi is well known for creeper/intense potency with effects that last 4 hours easily and imparts exotic honeysuckle terpenes to the whole flavors and smells side of things.

Mother:
The female was hybridized by a good old friend of mine, Opie Kenope. He crossed an old-school Burmese (back from when it was still called Burma) with a Juicyfruit Thai. These are fairly incredible hybrids, especially for sativa lovers, but due to the Juicyfruit Thai being the Canadian hybrid and not the one from Holland, there is some impressive indica facets to the high-type. Also, the yields are very good with these, large dense buds dripping resin. I coined the name for this cross calling it “Bhai Bhai” a whimsical contraction of Burmese and Thai.

Malawi Bhai Bhai:
Unlike the previous release, the Congo Bhai Bhai, this hybrid will be a bit more on the relaxing side—not sleepy at all—and very little or no “edge” to the high. The mother Bhai Bhai has intense Starburst smells and flavors that are just delicious. From breeding with the Cherry Malawi many times in the past, I am confident the smells and flavors will remain dominant in the Malawi Bhai Bhai hybrid.
 
Fun genetics Gee! Have at it!
 
Day 13
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The varieties of phenos is wide. The sizes are really seperating.

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Plant #3 got its 1st topping today.

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The runt is nowhere ready for a topping yet. Probably 3 more days.

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and these 2 will get topped either tomorrow or the next day.

All 4 pots got 33% extra calcium above my normal amounts. The extra was mixed in right before potting. So far I am not seeing any detriment at all.

Hopefully I can avoid a magnesium deficiency under the new LED. It's going to be fun trying the new light out.

These 4 are currently under my 100 watts of full spectrum veg strips but on Sept 23rd the flower tent and the new big light with the UV add-on will be available.

Then hopefully I find out that the extra calcium was enough.


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Here are the 2 tortured souls. The swicking hurt them bad. Man they are ugly buggers🤣.

The top one got its water roots shaved off and was completely removed from the swick, and the bottom one got gently lifted out of 20 litres of perlite and placed into aproximately 4 litres of perlite, and then only top watered with the small swick catching the runoff.

The wierd part is that even after losing all their fans and yellowing hard, they are still praying to the Sun Gods to some degree.

What an incredible drive to survive.

The only reason they are still alive is because I want to get them to harvest to disect the root balls and see whats in there. The worms keep looking at them with lust in their eyes.

I was too lazy to start the new seeds, probably tomorrow.
 
I don't think they're ugly at all. I think they look remarkably well considering their ordeals :green_heart:

Are you adding additional calcium to compensate for any growth spurts the new light may throw at you? Am I understanding that correctly?
 
Carmen Ray said:
I don't think they're ugly at all. I think they look remarkably well considering their ordeals :green_heart:

Are you adding additional calcium to compensate for any growth spurts the new light may throw at you? Am I understanding that correctly?
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The new seedlings in the 10 gallon pots had an extra 33% calcium (a mix of dolomite, gypsum, and oyster shell flour, so its actually extra Cal, Mag, and sulphur) added to the mix right before I filled the pots and planted the seeds. It didn't get cooked in so it had/has me worried.

When I got my Spiderfarmer SE1000, the instruction manual stated that extra Cal and Mag may be required, and after watching and discussing with @Keffka and his Mag issues, as well as others on the site, I decided to add the extra.

I went with 1/3 more than the recipe figuring that might be too much, but if it failed I could cut that soil down by adding a regular blend and use it again vs not enough and having to add supplements.

The soil is very loose and airy. No crusting up top, so that is promising. I figured that if it was too much then you would see it in the seedlings but they are quite happy.

Other than the runt, which had a tough delivery, and is recovering fairly well, the plants are right on schedule.

The one big one is likely the extra lanky pheno that generally shows up about 1 in 4 and is super easy to grow but doesn't produce the best buzz, and the other 3 are exactly the phenos that I buy these Durban seeds for.

There is one super-sativa pheno that I have found twice that has unbelievable frost that curls the leaves into tubes, thats the one I am seeking. If I find it again I will mother plant that one.

The 2 Ugly Bugs are in my regular mix, which does contain a lot of calcium and magnesium already. I am not seeing any deficiencies and they are only 2 gallon pots, but they certainly aren't growing very robustly either.

If this extra works I will try it in my worm farm too.
 
Gee64 said:
The new seedlings in the 10 gallon pots had an extra 33% calcium (a mix of dolomite, gypsum, and oyster shell flour, so its actually extra Cal, Mag, and sulphur) added to the mix right before I filled the pots and planted the seeds. It didn't get cooked in so it had/has me worried.

When I got my Spiderfarmer SE1000, the instruction manual stated that extra Cal and Mag may be required, and after watching and discussing with @Keffka and his Mag issues, as well as others on the site, I decided to add the extra.

I went with 1/3 more than the recipe figuring that might be too much, but if it failed I could cut that soil down by adding a regular blend and use it again vs not enough and having to add supplements.

The soil is very loose and airy. No crusting up top, so that is promising. I figured that if it was too much then you would see it in the seedlings but they are quite happy.

Other than the runt, which had a tough delivery, and is recovering fairly well, the plants are right on schedule.

The one big one is likely the extra lanky pheno that generally shows up about 1 in 4 and is super easy to grow but doesn't produce the best buzz, and the other 3 are exactly the phenos that I buy these Durban seeds for.

There is one super-sativa pheno that I have found twice that has unbelievable frost that curls the leaves into tubes, thats the one I am seeking. If I find it again I will mother plant that one.

The 2 Ugly Bugs are in my regular mix, which does contain a lot of calcium and magnesium already. I am not seeing any deficiencies and they are only 2 gallon pots, but they certainly aren't growing very robustly either.

If this extra works I will try it in my worm farm too.
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Interesting! Thanks Gee.
 
Gee64 said:
The new seedlings in the 10 gallon pots had an extra 33% calcium (a mix of dolomite, gypsum, and oyster shell flour, so its actually extra Cal, Mag, and sulphur) added to the mix right before I filled the pots and planted the seeds. It didn't get cooked in so it had/has me worried.

When I got my Spiderfarmer SE1000, the instruction manual stated that extra Cal and Mag may be required, and after watching and discussing with @Keffka and his Mag issues, as well as others on the site, I decided to add the extra.

I went with 1/3 more than the recipe figuring that might be too much, but if it failed I could cut that soil down by adding a regular blend and use it again vs not enough and having to add supplements.

The soil is very loose and airy. No crusting up top, so that is promising. I figured that if it was too much then you would see it in the seedlings but they are quite happy.

Other than the runt, which had a tough delivery, and is recovering fairly well, the plants are right on schedule.

The one big one is likely the extra lanky pheno that generally shows up about 1 in 4 and is super easy to grow but doesn't produce the best buzz, and the other 3 are exactly the phenos that I buy these Durban seeds for.

There is one super-sativa pheno that I have found twice that has unbelievable frost that curls the leaves into tubes, thats the one I am seeking. If I find it again I will mother plant that one.

The 2 Ugly Bugs are in my regular mix, which does contain a lot of calcium and magnesium already. I am not seeing any deficiencies and they are only 2 gallon pots, but they certainly aren't growing very robustly either.

If this extra works I will try it in my worm farm too.
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Yikes, keep us up to date, I’d like to know what effect you see from not cooking it.. If it works out well that’s a handy trick to keep up your sleeve. Not much worse than having to calmag a grow just to ease the soil. I’m likely going to have to do it with the Geoflora top dress plants, we’ll see how the soil feels tonight. Thankfully I’ve got a decent non chelated organic calmag
 
Keffka said:
Yikes, keep us up to date, I’d like to know what effect you see from not cooking it.. If it works out well that’s a handy trick to keep up your sleeve. Not much worse than having to calmag a grow just to ease the soil. I’m likely going to have to do it with the Geoflora top dress plants, we’ll see how the soil feels tonight. Thankfully I’ve got a decent non chelated organic calmag
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I will definitely keep you posted.

Its a baby in a huge pot so it hasn't been flood watered yet, Im hoping 2 weeks of mildly damp will let the soil biology tame it down a bit.

As soon as I see a root poke through the bottom it gets a full saturation to runoff.

That is usually day 17-19. Maybe sooner on the big sproutling.

I didn't quite have the coco I needed so I added extra EWC. They will need to get their brix up quick or carbon may become an issue.
 
Day 15
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All 4 are now topped for the 1st time. 2 more toppings to go.

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Its amazing how much side branches can grow in 2 days since topping .

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The runt is really catching up but it's not processing water really well yet. It looks wet and heavy in the leaves.

So far still no detriment from the raw calciums. The soil is actually beautiful. Its fluffy and smells really nice.

I still haven't planted my KOS seeds but I did at least get the 8 solo's all scrubbed up.

The seeds are on the counter... getting closer.... damn I'm lazy....
 
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Day 18 and the biggest is almost toppable again. Likely tomorrow and probably all of them will be manifolded to 4 by the next day.

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The biggest one has a bit of a funk in its biggest leaves but I will watch it for a bit before I react.

The pots still haven't been thoroughly saturated so things could be a bit out of balance.

All in all they are very nice sproutlings pretty much right on schedule.
 
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