Which I interesting since the blueish 5,000k are marketed as "cool" while the 3,000 reddish are sold as "warm".

Maybe I should replace the cool whites with the warm to lower my leaf temps. It's a crazy world out there...
Let your inner scientist play. Newsflash: You're pretty good at that shit🤣👊

Try a 50/50 mix, then a 100% red. See what you find out😎

With your odd setup on your grow space something unconventional just might work. You know how to track it now.
 
Hey guys,I am at day 6 of flower and I usually do my last big defoliation n lollipoping around day 6 to day 14 over time I've narrowed down the window for perfectly timed flower defoliation but it's not exact just yet lol I was looking for someone who does do a flower stretch defoliation? So I can ask about timing ? This the ladies in question,they where stripped about 2 wks ago and now they unruly and blocking air n light to my secondarys,they gotta go !!
IMG_20241229_063311.jpg
 
Hey guys,I am at day 6 of flower and I usually do my last big defoliation n lollipoping around day 6 to day 14 over time I've narrowed down the window for perfectly timed flower defoliation but it's not exact just yet lol I was looking for someone who does do a flower stretch defoliation? So I can ask about timing ? This the ladies in question,they where stripped about 2 wks ago and now they unruly and blocking air n light to my secondarys,they gotta go !!
IMG_20241229_063311.jpg
I do my clean up after stretch, around day 21. At that point I have a pretty good idea of what's not going to make to the canopy. I take the bud sites but leave the leaves as a nutrient bank for later on.

Day 6 seems way too early for me.
 
Hey guys,I am at day 6 of flower and I usually do my last big defoliation n lollipoping around day 6 to day 14 over time I've narrowed down the window for perfectly timed flower defoliation but it's not exact just yet lol I was looking for someone who does do a flower stretch defoliation? So I can ask about timing ? This the ladies in question,they where stripped about 2 wks ago and now they unruly and blocking air n light to my secondarys,they gotta go !!
I've mostly cleaned up anything that isn't making the canopy and any buds low enough to be out of the light at day 21 after flip.
 
Let your inner scientist play. Newsflash: You're pretty good at that shit🤣👊
You're very kind to say that, but often it seems like 2 steps forward, 1.5 back. I am learning a lot, so there's that.

Try a 50/50 mix, then a 100% red. See what you find out😎
I think I might at least rearrange them first. I have three strips deep of six bulbs each and did a pattern for what I originally thought was going to be three plants in flower on a 4 week (monthly harvest) schedule.

But that was too crowded and since I now only have two plants I really should change the pattern at least. But, if the 3k lights help with my leaf temps and they'd be better for clones anyway, maybe it's time to just swap them all out.

With your odd setup on your grow space something unconventional just might work. You know how to track it now.
Hey! I resemble that remark. 🤪

I feel like I'm close to getting my set-up to work, but the prize keeps dangling just out of reach. It does get a bit frustrating at times, but now that I seem to be crossing over into the higher brix world, maybe my reward pace will accelerate a bit.

But I have so many unconventional aspects to my grow that it's like whack-a-mole with the various issues that arise. If nothing else, it give us all an opportunity for you to share what not to do, or at least how to fix it. :laughtwo:

You've accelerated my learning curve tremendously and for that I am grateful. Trying to learn it all on my own through trial and (largely) error was taking too long! But, I do like to experiment so it's been a fun journey. I'd just like a taste of the Land of Milk and Honey every once in a while, even if I'm not ready to be a resident quite yet.
 
Yra that's a huge beney right there,how involved is the process of raising brix ?
Hey 480, sorry this took so long. Life was really busy over the holidays.

Make a large pot of coffee before you read any further, this is a long post.

Ok, so brix is a measurement of sugars in a plant's sap. Leaf brix is what we are interested in measuring as growers, but sugars are in the entire plant, and plants can and do move them around.

Plants can sense a low pressure weather event approaching and will quickly move sugars from above ground to the roots, in case the approaching storm shears branches off, and that protects the energy needed to rebuild.

So if you take a brix reading and it's suddenly 4 or 5 brix less, check your weather app before you panic.

So to raise brix... Well in a nutshell all you need to do is increase photosynthesis (PS), but 1st lets summarize some things.

Plants, by natures design, take carbon dioxide from the air thru their stomata and turn it into sugar that can be stored for later use. Sugar gets turned into a product called adenosine triphosphate. ATP for short.

ATP is what is used as energy to power cells in pretty much all living things. Humans included. So plants create their own fuel.

Plants require a few things to do this. 1st, they require light as that's what drives
photosynthesis (PS). They also require minerals for proper cellular function, so let's assume that there is adequate light and minerals for this conversation.

After minerals and light, plants require 5 main components to produce sugars. They are the big pieces. They are Calcium (Ca), Oxygen (O2), Carbon (C), Phosphorus (P), and beneficial arobic soil microbes, and myco fungii is included, so when I say microbes I also mean myco fungii. The soil biota.

So plants produce sugar. With it they create energy to grow. In the presence of adequate light and minerals they will create sugars to their maximum ability if food and all 5 are available, and have the unique ability to create more energy than is required to produce that energy. A lot more. Over twice as much.

The food in the soil is created by microbes. They eat the dirt and poop it out in a manner that plants can digest it. It's called "fixing" and they can also "fix" nitrogen from the air and turn it into plant digestible nitrogen.

Microbes love carbon. They eat everything in the dirt to get it, so plant food is a happy accident of microbe poop as they eat the dirt to get the carbon.

Plants will take excess sugars created by PS and push it down and out their roots to feed the microbes to keep them healthy. In return they get poop from healthy robust microbes.

Those sugars that ooze out the roots are called exudates. So plants use their sugar profits to create exudates to aquire more food from the microbes. Now enter myco fungii.

It attaches itself into a special pore in a root and it collects the poop and moves it thru the soil to the root for the plant, as roots move very slowly, so it's more efficient to bring the food to the root than it is to bring the root to the food.

For this middleman service, myco is paid with sugar because myco lives underground and can't photosynthesize in the dark. Myco can move food very quickly. Myco must remain in control underground. It needs to be stronger than the microbes to do this. Hydrolysed fish fertilizer on a steady basis ensures that. It keeps myco healthy.

So this symbiotic system between microbes, myco, and a plant, creates enough sugars for everyone involved, but the system is only as good as the weakest link. If light and minerals are adequate then one of the 5 big pieces is the weakest link.

For a plant to get the right food at the right time all it does is tell myco, and myco will take the plant's root exudate and squirt it on the needed food source in the soil and microbes will gobble it up and poop out the required nutrient for myco to transfer back to the root.

If there are no weakest links then everyone gets more than enough to eat to become completely healthy, and now you have a healthy plant using healthy myco to get poop from healthy microbes. When all are fully fed, if there are no weakest links, there is left over profit that is stored in the soil. It's called carbon sequestering.

That occurs when high brix occurs. It's a plant's prime directive. Natures way. Plants are encoded in their DNA to strive to achieve this. High brix for healthy reproduction is all they are interested in, and they have tunnel vision locked onto it.

So a plant is happily rolling along and boom, it runs out of one of the big 5. The process is maxxed out. If that occurs when brix are 12 or less, plants know they haven't achieved high brix so they will call in the bug squad so they can be eaten to produce poop that their siblings can use to attempt becoming high brix. All they want is their DNA to move forward a generation and don't care if it's them or a sibling that does it, as long as someone does reach high brix to produce healthy seeds to perpetuate the family lineage. They will compost themselves to help their siblings.

So for us to grow a perfectly healthy plant in a pot we need light, microbes, and myco, minerals to function the cells, and food. Sugar pays the bills.

The big 5.

Calcium has many functions, it's not just food for a plant. It's electricity powers the soil as microbes, just like humans, run on electricity. It sets the soil's EC.

It also sets the charge in the soil to fluff it allowing space in the soil between the fluffed soil particles to let air and water move freely. That is called "tilth".

Air and water share the same space. Creating soil tilth is called "soil conditioning" so calcium is a nutrient and a soil conditioner. Any time you see a product that is touted as a conditioner, it means it helps create tilth.

It sets the stage for the process to work.

Oxygen, another part of the 5, is now readily available from good tilth at the roots. The microbes must attach an oxygen molecule to a food source in order for a plant to recognize it as food. No O2 molecule attached equals no entry into the root. Too much water displaces O2 in the rootball, causing no O2 attachment, and the plant starves even if there's food in the pot. That's how over watering kills plants. It starves them to death. Oxygen comes from atmosphere so it's free.

Carbon. Part 3.

It comes from CO2 in the air that plants pull in thru their stomata, and there is more than enough in the atmosphere to create high brix, but stomata are reactionary things, and if atmospheric conditions are less than optimal they will start to close, and carbon gets restricted. When VPD is correct for the stage of the plant's life that it's at, carbon intake is set correctly.

Part 4 is phosphorus.

It's the main ingredient in adenosine triphosphate (ATP) . It's very hard to mine but you don't need much. You do however need a smidge more today than you needed yesterday, and will need a smidge more yet again tomorrow. Some P is consumed, but the rest of it has the correct atomic charge to have food magnetically attached to it on it's way into the root, and it piggybacks other foods in.

The plant consumes some P to create ATP, and the rest goes round and round hauling food in and exudates out. The plant unloads the food from P, reloads it with exudates, the microbes unload the exudates and reload the food.

As the plant grows, it requires more food, and as the food needs go up, the microbe population will grow to provide more food, but the microbes now require more exudates to feed the larger herd, so as the plant grows more P is required to go round and round. You need more dump trucks on the road.

Microbes/fungii are part 5 and if you supply more exudates, they will come out of dormancy to increase herd populations.

Myco coordinates the dance.

So when calcium (part1) creates tilth, and water is correct, you get adequate oxygen (part 2), and if VPD is correct for stomata to provide adequate carbon (part 3) and Phosphorus (part 4) keeps slowly increasing for assimilation and hauling, the microbes (part 5) get more exudates to become healthier and more abundant, and can now load more dumptrucks. It all leads to increased PS.

Every lap of exudates creates a slightly larger and more robust system that can produce more exudates to make the next lap even better. Brix levels go up. The rich get richer.

When they get above 12 brix the plant is healthy, and will now NOT try to commit suicide by bug.

At 14 brix bugs won't eat any plant tissue, it becomes toxic and deadly to them as they don't have a pancreas, so they can't digest excess sugars, and the sugars will ferment inside the bug, alcohol is formed internally from the sugars as they ferment, and it kills the pest.

Pest know this and will avoid that plant.

So high brix is all about balancing the big 5 in the presence of adequate light to drive it all, and adequate minerals to provide everyone with proper healthy cellular function to do it all.

If you add sugars manually then the microbes ignore myco's instructions and eat what they want, not what the plant tells myco it needs, and the wrong poop is produced and it all crashes.

If you dump high P ferts in that are hydroponically available myco has P and will sever it's connection to the P miners, thus the plant needs to produce less exudates with less mouths to feed, and it all crashes. You can't bypass myco ever.

So it's about putting the right things in the soil in the beginning, and then maintaining calcium levels to hold the tilth so O2 isn't restricted, so the microbes can trade oxygen rich food for exudates and they do it with edible dump trucks made out of phosphorus. You need balance.

The bonus feature.

VPD controls stomata which regulate the flow of free carbon from the atmosphere. VPD is a 3-way formula of air temp, leaf temp, and RH. It works best when leaves are 2 degrees F lower than air temp.

Light levels can warm the leaf above what ambient air temps supply, so when you adjust your light until you have a perfect 2 degree offset in temps between air temp and leaf temp, you have set your light levels perfectly without a meter.

You can't just decide a PPFD level for your plants if you want proper photosynthetic rates, you must supply the right amount of light to be able to use what the root ball can provide, so too little light means you aren't getting the most out of your rootball, and too much light means you will photosynthesize too fast for the rootball and if the roots can't keep up, then a deficiency arises.

VPD is how everyone should be setting their light levels. The PPFD and DLI recommended charts have no idea how your rootball is performing, but when you adjust your light to get the 2 degree offset, light is in sync with the root ball. As the plant grows the root ball gets bigger, and more light can be used. VPD will tell you how much more.

The refractometer will keep calcium optimal, the water stik will keep oxygen optimal, use an IR thermometer to keep a 2 degree offset and the atmosphere will keep carbon and the rate of PS optimal, and myco will set up nitrogen fixing microbes to create all the nitrogen required, so if minerals are available then you just need to ensure P is adequate.

Put P in the pot at day 1 and the microbes will find it. It's really hard to add later without crashing everything.

So it's about balanced soil that is balanced to the atmosphere, and balanced light that is in the correct amount to match the abilities of the roots to provide adequate supplies from the soil.

Once the soil and it's biome are correct, VPD dials the pieces in to form the synergy.

Earth (soil) wind (atmosphere), fire (light) and water.

Easy peasy, limonene squeezy.

Hope that helps. Hydroponics bypasses all this. It's a backdoor hack into a secondary system that plants have so when spring floods occur they can eat the nutrient rich flood waters to get a boost in the spring. They don't get nute burn from it because they can only eat that water when PH drifts thru the sweet spot zone of 5.8-6.5.

That bypasses the soil biota, so it can't create brix very well and bugs are inevitable. The prettiest synthetic hydroponic plant on the planet is constantly trying to commit suicide.

Bug spray is your only real option. It's way more work for a lesser outcome than what brix can give you.
 
I do my clean up after stretch, around day 21. At that point I have a pretty good idea of what's not going to make to the canopy. I take the bud sites but leave the leaves as a nutrient bank for later on.

Day 6 seems way too early for me.
I don't mean a full blown strip, but I like to get in there open things up and get light on my secondary branching. Maybe just a light trim. I can use the stretch and manipulate it by lollipipping n rubbing down lower stems,removing what won't make either canopy and pulling bigger fans to get a thicker,higher yeild canopy. My only issue is timing around the big strips.I too feel that day 6 might be too early. These girls feel like they not even close to full gear yet,I think they gonna be big af once the flower kicks in!! tbh they only look like they had a good growth week in veg lol the light yellow at grow tips only give away!? I think I will wait a few days longer like you recommend. Do you do a few strips too ? It's such a hack in my opinion !! I'm not sure how but it boosts yields so reliably I just can't believe it's not cannon in the grow bible 🤣
 
Hey 480, sorry this took so long. Life was really busy over the holidays.

Make a large pot of coffee before you read any further, this is a long post.

Ok, so brix is a measurement of sugars in a plant's sap. Leaf brix is what we are interested in measuring as growers, but sugars are in the entire plant, and plants can and do move them around.

Plants can sense a low pressure weather event approaching and will quickly move sugars from above ground to the roots, in case the approaching storm shears branches off, and that protects the energy needed to rebuild.

So if you take a brix reading and it's suddenly 4 or 5 brix less, check your weather app before you panic.

So to raise brix... Well in a nutshell all you need to do is increase photosynthesis (PS), but 1st lets summarize some things.

Plants, by natures design, take carbon dioxide from the air thru their stomata and turn it into sugar that can be stored for later use. Sugar gets turned into a product called adenosine triphosphate. ATP for short.

ATP is what is used as energy to power cells in pretty much all living things. Humans included. So plants create their own fuel.

Plants require a few things to do this. 1st, they require light as that's what drives
photosynthesis (PS). They also require minerals for proper cellular function, so let's assume that there is adequate light and minerals for this conversation.

After minerals and light, plants require 5 main components to produce sugars. They are the big pieces. They are Calcium (Ca), Oxygen (O2), Carbon (C), Phosphorus (P), and beneficial arobic soil microbes, and myco fungii is included, so when I say microbes I also mean myco fungii. The soil biota.

So plants produce sugar. With it they create energy to grow. In the presence of adequate light and minerals they will create sugars to their maximum ability if food and all 5 are available, and have the unique ability to create more energy than is required to produce that energy. A lot more. Over twice as much.

The food in the soil is created by microbes. They eat the dirt and poop it out in a manner that plants can digest it. It's called "fixing" and they can also "fix" nitrogen from the air and turn it into plant digestible nitrogen.

Microbes love carbon. They eat everything in the dirt to get it, so plant food is a happy accident of microbe poop as they eat the dirt to get the carbon.

Plants will take excess sugars created by PS and push it down and out their roots to feed the microbes to keep them healthy. In return they get poop from healthy robust microbes.

Those sugars that ooze out the roots are called exudates. So plants use their sugar profits to create exudates to aquire more food from the microbes. Now enter myco fungii.

It attaches itself into a special pore in a root and it collects the poop and moves it thru the soil to the root for the plant, as roots move very slowly, so it's more efficient to bring the food to the root than it is to bring the root to the food.

For this middleman service, myco is paid with sugar because myco lives underground and can't photosynthesize in the dark. Myco can move food very quickly. Myco must remain in control underground. It needs to be stronger than the microbes to do this. Hydrolysed fish fertilizer on a steady basis ensures that. It keeps myco healthy.

So this symbiotic system between microbes, myco, and a plant, creates enough sugars for everyone involved, but the system is only as good as the weakest link. If light and minerals are adequate then one of the 5 big pieces is the weakest link.

For a plant to get the right food at the right time all it does is tell myco, and myco will take the plant's root exudate and squirt it on the needed food source in the soil and microbes will gobble it up and poop out the required nutrient for myco to transfer back to the root.

If there are no weakest links then everyone gets more than enough to eat to become completely healthy, and now you have a healthy plant using healthy myco to get poop from healthy microbes. When all are fully fed, if there are no weakest links, there is left over profit that is stored in the soil. It's called carbon sequestering.

That occurs when high brix occurs. It's a plant's prime directive. Natures way. Plants are encoded in their DNA to strive to achieve this. High brix for healthy reproduction is all they are interested in, and they have tunnel vision locked onto it.

So a plant is happily rolling along and boom, it runs out of one of the big 5. The process is maxxed out. If that occurs when brix are 12 or less, plants know they haven't achieved high brix so they will call in the bug squad so they can be eaten to produce poop that their siblings can use to attempt becoming high brix. All they want is their DNA to move forward a generation and don't care if it's them or a sibling that does it, as long as someone does reach high brix to produce healthy seeds to perpetuate the family lineage. They will compost themselves to help their siblings.

So for us to grow a perfectly healthy plant in a pot we need light, microbes, and myco, minerals to function the cells, and food. Sugar pays the bills.

The big 5.

Calcium has many functions, it's not just food for a plant. It's electricity powers the soil as microbes, just like humans, run on electricity. It sets the soil's EC.

It also sets the charge in the soil to fluff it allowing space in the soil between the fluffed soil particles to let air and water move freely. That is called "tilth".

Air and water share the same space. Creating soil tilth is called "soil conditioning" so calcium is a nutrient and a soil conditioner. Any time you see a productvthat is touted as a conditioner, it means it helps create tilth.

It sets the stage for the process to work.

Oxygen, another part of the 5, is now readily available from good tilth at the roots. The microbes must attach an oxygen molecule to a food source in order for a plant to recognize it as food. No O2 molecule attached equals no entry into the root. Too much water displaces O2 in the rootball, causing no O2 attachment, and the plant starves even if there's food in the pot. That's how over watering kills plants. It starves them to death. Oxygen comes from atmosphere so it's free.

Carbon. Part 3.

It comes from CO2 in the air that plants pull in thru their stomata, and there is more than enough in the atmosphere to create high brix, but stomata are reactionary things, and if atmospheric conditions are less than optimal they will start to close, and carbon gets restricted. When VPD is correct for the stage of the plant's life that it's at, carbon intake is set correctly.

Part 4 is phosphorus.

It's the main ingredient in adenosine triphosphate (ATP) . It's very hard to mine but you don't need much. You do however need a smidge more today than you needed yesterday, and will need a smidge more yet again tomorrow. Some P is consumed, but the rest of it has the correct atomic charge to have food magnetically attached to it on it's way into the root, and it piggybacks other foods in.

The plant consumes some P to create ATP, and the rest goes round and round hauling food in and exudates out. The plant unloads the food from P, reloads it with exudates, the microbes unload the exudates and reload the food.

As the plant grows, it requires more food, and as the food needs go up, the microbe population will grow to provide more food, but the microbes now require more exudates to feed the larger herd, so as the plant grows more P is required to go round and round. You need more dump trucks on the road.

Microbes/fungii are part 5 and if you supply more exudates, they will come out of dormancy to increase herd populations.

Myco coordinates the dance.

So when calcium (part1) creates tilth, and water is correct, you get adequate oxygen (part 2), and if VPD is correct for stomata to provide adequate carbon (part 3) and Phosphorus (part 4) keeps slowly increasing for assimilation and hauling, the microbes (part 5) get more exudates to become healthier and more abundant, and can now load more dumptrucks. It all leads to increased PS.

Every lap of exudates creates a slightly larger and more robust system that can produce more exudates to make the next lap even better. Brix levels go up. The rich get richer.

When they get above 12 brix the plant is healthy, and will now NOT try to commit suicide by bug.

At 14 brix bugs won't eat any plant tissue, it becomes toxic and deadly to them as they don't have a pancreas, so they can't digest excess sugars, and the sugars will ferment inside the bug, alcohol is formed internally from the sugars as they ferment, and it kills the pest.

Pest know this and will avoid that plant.

So high brix is all about balancing the big 5 in the presence of adequate light to drive it all, and adequate minerals to provide everyone with proper healthy cellular function to do it all.

If you add sugars manually then the microbes ignore myco's instructions and eat what they want, not what the plant tells myco it needs, and the wrong poop is produced and it all crashes.

If you dump high P ferts in that are hydroponically available myco has P and will sever it's connection to the P miners, thus the plant needs to produce less exudates with less mouths to feed, and it all crashes. You can't bypass myco ever.

So it's about putting the right things in the soil in the beginning, and then maintaining calcium levels to hold the tilth so O2 isn't restricted, so the microbes can trade oxygen rich food for exudates and they do it with edible dump trucks made out of phosphorus. You need balance.

The bonus feature.

VPD controls stomata which regulate the flow of free carbon from the atmosphere. VPD is a 3-way formula of air temp, leaf temp, and RH. It works best when leaves are 2 degrees F lower than air temp.

Light levels can warm the leaf above what ambient air temps supply, so when you adjust your light until you have a perfect 2 degree offset in temps between air temp and leaf temp, you have set your light levels perfectly without a meter.

You can't just decide a PPFD level for your plants if you want proper photosynthetic rates, you must supply the right amount of light to be able to use what the root ball can provide, so too little light means you aren't getting the most out of your rootball, and too much light means you will photosynthesize too fast for the rootball and if the roots can't keep up, then a deficiency arises.

VPD is how everyone should be setting their light levels. The PPFD and DLI recommended charts have no idea how your rootball is performing, but when you adjust your light to get the 2 degree offset, light is in sync with the root ball. As the plant grows the root ball gets bigger, and more light can be used. VPD will tell you how much more.

The refractometer will keep calcium optimal, the water stik will keep oxygen optimal, use an IR thermometer to keep a 2 degree offset and the atmosphere will keep carbon and the rate of PS optimal, and myco will set up nitrogen fixing microbes to create all the nitrogen required, so if minerals are available then you just need to ensure P is adequate.

Put P in the pot at day 1 and the microbes will find it. It's really hard to add later without crashing everything.

So it's about balanced soil that is balanced to the atmosphere, and balanced light that is in the correct amount to match the abilities of the roots to provide adequate supplies from the soil.

Once the soil and it's biome are correct, VPD dials the pieces in to form the synergy.

Earth (soil) wind (atmosphere), fire (light) and water.

Easy peasy, limonene squeezy.

Hope that helps. Hydroponics bypasses all this. It's a backdoor hack into a secondary system that plants have so when spring floods occur they can eat the nutrient rich flood waters to get a boost in the spring. They don't get nute burn from it because they can only eat that water when PH drifts thru the sweet spot zone of 5.8-6.5.

That bypasses the soil biota, so it can't create brix very well and bugs are inevitable. The prettiest synthetic hydroponic plant on the planet is constantly trying to commit suicide.

Bug spray is your only real option. It's way more work for a lesser outcome than what brix can give you.
Oh I just saw this !!! Reading now ty broo !!
 
You're very kind to say that, but often it seems like 2 steps forward, 1.5 back. I am learning a lot, so there's that.
2 ahead, one back. That's how it works. It gets you to the finish line. Once you have the process then there are no more steps back, so take the time and build it bulletproof.
I think I might at least rearrange them first. I have three strips deep of six bulbs each and did a pattern for what I originally thought was going to be three plants in flower on a 4 week (monthly harvest) schedule.

But that was too crowded and since I now only have two plants I really should change the pattern at least. But, if the 3k lights help with my leaf temps and they'd be better for clones anyway, maybe it's time to just swap them all out.
Blue creates chlorophyl, so without full spectrum you need some blue.
Hey! I resemble that remark. 🤪

I feel like I'm close to getting my set-up to work, but the prize keeps dangling just out of reach. It does get a bit frustrating at times, but now that I seem to be crossing over into the higher brix world, maybe my reward pace will accelerate a bit.
You are juggling a lot with LOS, SIPS, KNF/Jadam, and a small space. Cut yourself some slack. You have tons of moving parts and each moving part has tons of moving parts. Your there now, you just need to fine tune all the parts.
But I have so many unconventional aspects to my grow that it's like whack-a-mole with the various issues that arise. If nothing else, it give us all an opportunity for you to share what not to do, or at least how to fix it. :laughtwo:
Can you say Guinea Pig🤣🤣🤣
You've accelerated my learning curve tremendously and for that I am grateful.
I'll get mine back, you know what my end game is. I want to see KNF in it's full glory. Sips I can live without, but I'll help you with those. It's a KNF high brix guru that I want😎. Along the way we all get to learn. Plus your fun to tease🤣🥰
Trying to learn it all on my own through trial and (largely) error was taking too long!
You can't do it. Life is too short. You need the collective. That's why we are all here, no?
But, I do like to experiment
Yes you do!
so it's been a fun journey.
It certainly is🙏❤️
I'd just like a taste of the Land of Milk and Honey every once in a while, even if I'm not ready to be a resident quite yet.
Want some honey?🤣🤣🤣 I have a few pounds of it. The shit just keeps multiplying, it's like it has a mind of it's own. Very annoying. I can't give it away fast enough! (Yeah Gee's a dick!) 🤣🤣🤣
 
Hey guys,I am at day 6 of flower and I usually do my last big defoliation n lollipoping around day 6 to day 14 over time I've narrowed down the window for perfectly timed flower defoliation but it's not exact just yet lol I was looking for someone who does do a flower stretch defoliation? So I can ask about timing ? This the ladies in question,they where stripped about 2 wks ago and now they unruly and blocking air n light to my secondarys,they gotta go !!
IMG_20241229_063311.jpg
I only prune out sucker branches and I leave the leaves, so I'm going to leave this for the defol experts.

Lower leaves are my shield against deficiencies. It buys me time to fix the issue as the deficiency grows.
 
Hey guys,I am at day 6 of flower and I usually do my last big defoliation n lollipoping around day 6 to day 14 over time I've narrowed down the window for perfectly timed flower defoliation but it's not exact just yet lol I was looking for someone who does do a flower stretch defoliation? So I can ask about timing ? This the ladies in question,they where stripped about 2 wks ago and now they unruly and blocking air n light to my secondarys,they gotta go !!
IMG_20241229_063311.jpg
I do a light defoliation - just enough to ensure good air flow the day I flip & then on day 21. I’m usually pretty heavy handed on the second round. After that I’ll remove a leaf here & there as needed for air flow & good light penetration. I take everything off the bottom 1/3 of the plant & do my best to eliminate future larf.
 
Azi, warm and cold light doesn't have anything to do with heat, it's about asthetics. Red light appears warm and cozy to the eye, blue light appears cold and stark.

Cold blue light is actually hotter than warm red light.... go figure. The industry fails if confusion subsides....
Yeah, that I knew. It actually makes some sense when you see the "cooler" bulbs are rated at a higher 5,000k while the "warm" ones are down at 2,500-3,000k.

So, what kind of ratio would I want between the (R)ed and (B)lue? Each of the two sections has 9 lights (3 across, and 3 deep) in a square pattern:

How about something like a 5:4 ratio:

R. B. R

B. R. B

R. B. R


Or I could do a 6:3 ratio

R. B. R.

R. B. R

R. B. R

The bulbs are standard screw in LED's with the domes removed rather than the typical broader spectrum lights most growers use.
 
I think I will wait a few days longer like you recommend. Do you do a few strips too ? It's such a hack in my opinion !! I'm not sure how but it boosts yields so reliably I just can't believe it's not cannon in the grow bible 🤣
I grow in small pots with qualining, and flip when the stems reach the pot edges so there's not much undercarriage for me.

I do remove limbs that grow both up and down along the main stems to try for fewer, larger colas since the ones growing straight up want to become dominant and the ones starting off down have to twist around the stem as they grow up toward the light and that just hurts ones sensibilities. Lol.
 
VPD is how everyone should be setting their light levels. The PPFD and DLI recommended charts have no idea how your rootball is performing, but when you adjust your light to get the 2 degree offset, light is in sync with the root ball. As the plant grows the root ball gets bigger, and more light can be used. VPD will tell you how much more.
So if ambient temperatures fluctuate up or down the light intensity can/should be adjusted accordingly? The last few days have been pretty consistent, but for the last couple weeks we’ve been in the mid 60s during the day & low to mid 30s at night and of course, the RH fluctuates right along with it. Maintaining my environment is the hardest part of having an indoor garden.
 
I'll get mine back, you know what my end game is. I want to see KNF in it's full glory. Sips I can live without, but I'll help you with those. It's a KNF high brix guru that I want😎. Along the way we all get to learn. Plus your fun to tease🤣🥰
I'm actually starting to think that the KNF/Jadam extracts might be more in the category of a good hack to use to try to fix an organic process that is struggling for whatever reason and that maybe simply a good compost pile and worm bin might be all that's needed. 🤔

The extracts are great for spreading the love over small farm acreage but with just a few pots going at any given time, quantity of output from compost and worm castings should not be much of a limiting issue.

The extracts would likely be great for SIP growing which is another one of my interests, but then I'm back to soup style and the attending bugs. I'm hoping my upcoming SIP mod might help bridge the gap but if I have to choose between high brix and SIP, I'm going to choose high brix. Though there are bug spray mixes I can make with extracts, so there's a path if I want to stay with SIPS.

And giving the raw ingredients to the microbes, rather than feeding a pre-digested version, would more closely mimic Mother Nature's path. She is the G.O.A.T. after all. 🐐

Also, since I'm already composting and worm binning, the extracts may be an unnecessary step when I can (and do) simply add the inputs into my piles.
 
So if ambient temperatures fluctuate up or down the light intensity can/should be adjusted accordingly? The last few days have been pretty consistent, but for the last couple weeks we’ve been in the mid 60s during the day & low to mid 30s at night and of course, the RH fluctuates right along with it. Maintaining my environment is the hardest part of having an indoor garden.
Probably easier to adjust rh than light levels to try to fine tune things. In nature the light is pretty consistent, but the other things move around.
 
So if ambient temperatures fluctuate up or down the light intensity can/should be adjusted accordingly? The last few days have been pretty consistent, but for the last couple weeks we’ve been in the mid 60s during the day & low to mid 30s at night and of course, the RH fluctuates right along with it. Maintaining my environment is the hardest part of having an indoor garden.
It definitely is the hardest part. Plants will fluctuate their leaf temps all day long to adapt to their environment which their own transpiration will adjust.

That's why the only VPD sample that matters is after 10 hours of lights on. Prior to that the plant is adjusting on the fly to dial things in.

At night a plant will raise it's leaf temps to reverse itself from transpiration to respiration, then spend the day juggling itself back to full transpiration.

10 hours, otherwise if you adjust early your VPD will be way out of whack at 10 hours when she's working her hardest.

Ignore earlier readings, and the closer it is from lights on, the farther out of whack things will look. Don't panic. 10 hours is the adjustment reading.

I find 4 10gal pots in an 8' tall 5' x 5' tent holds RH very well when properly watered. I set my exhaust fan to come on at my desired RH, not my desired temperature if that helps to know.

If you find the sweet spot on the soil to tent size ratio for your tent it will get a lot easier.

When I can't keep RH up I know it's time to water.

VPD is magical stuff😎.
 
Durban Poison - Day 32.

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The plants are small for their age. 3 have been topped to 4 mains an one is still at 2. The one at 2 has already started staggering her nodes, so she won't end up with perfect symmetry. A week ago when family arrived PPFD was at 300 to allow roots to get ahead of shoots. Guess who forgot to turn it up? It went to 500 today. I'll give them a day or 2 and then start taking leaf temps to dial it all in. They are a week behind now. New growth is a nice color tho, so that's positive. I may need to veg a week or so extra, but that's OK.

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This one is only at 2 tops.

When I topped the other 3 last night they collectively brixed at 12.5 and fuzzy, so calcium is rolling now and with more light they should soon get robust. 🤞
 
Funny you just posted that! I was giving my little ones 390 ppfd @ 12/12. Now that I went up to 18/6 today I checked leaf temp and it was equal or 1 degree down depending on where the plant was. Since we're looking for 2 degrees down and I added 4 hours to their day I brought it down to 350 to see if it would bring me to the 2 degree offset. Sound right?
 
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