Gee man, I have a question. The health of my plants has increased exponentially since I began prepping my soil the way I do, which is the ol-lady-moist-soil-squeeze-test ® watering methodology. I am wondering though, if I would get bigger roots and therefore bigger plants if in future I went back to the wet/ dry cycle?

The reason I ask is that conventional wisdom has it that weed plants are more productive with a wet / dry cycle. I prefer this ol lady way of prepping my soil though. I like how the plants look after themselves and I don't need to stress about getting it wrong.
 
Made it to a fiery finish! What a grow! Thanks for the detailed daily talks and pics! Kept us breathing heavy the whole grow!
Thanks Stone👊. It was a great run. Only 1 plant was almost like 10 weeks off. The nugs are surprisingly hard. I expected some sponginess but they are like rocks.

Even the small larfy buds way down in the shade were rock hard.

It's her smell that's most impressive. All plants let out some stink when you start trimming but this one was exceptional.

As soon as you touch her the whole plant instantly stinks up the entire house. Like a lemon Pinsol bomb went off with a mix of some other dank fruit that I can't quite figure out.

Almost an over ripe fruit smell. Sickly sweet lemon and pine. More pine and ripe fruit than lemon. Very strong and pleasant. She lights up the nose.

I hope I can preserve that in the cure. She's a loud girl.

I still can't believe all that came out of a 10gal pot of dirt with no deficiencies. 🥰❤️😍😊

Her brix never got super high but she ran upbto 17-ish and stayed there the entire grow. I wish she would ripen outdoors in my area, she would be a really large tree if grown in the ground.

She also is very sturdy. Her mains aren't the type of branches that you could accidentally kink over like a supercrop. They are like hardwood branches that are very bendy but if bent enough they would snap off instead of kinking over.

Long story short... I hardly had to tie up a cola. The ones I did tie were done to keep them in position to keep the ppfd steady, not reall to keep the tops grom flopping to the ground. I suppose if I had of delarfed her more the mains would have gotten bigger and floppy, but they are still beautiful nugs. She's the gooiest sativa I've ever grown.

I'm also very impressed with the light footprint of this light. The tops of the mains to the bottom of larf valley was about 24" and the ppfd drop was only about 50-80 ppfd. It has great lensing😊.

It was set at 55% power to get the 950-980 ppfd. The lowest light in the canopy was 895 ppfd.

My plan is to flower out 4 Durbans next, but I may go 3 Durban Poisons from Cropking and one Miss Sticky clone that is fairly small still as a test to see if I can do another run with 4 Miss Sticky clones and get them to fit in the tent🤣.

Miss Sticky was very easy to grow and she eats a lot, but loves Gaia, fish, and EWC. 2 rounds of dolowater right as stretch was ending was the only real ask that she made😊. Overall she was not a big water pig either, so watering was never an issue.

Other than her size, I would rate her as "Easy". A new grower may have encountered a calcium isdue after stretch but otherwise could easy grow her to success. Just not in a 2 x 2 tent🤣🤣🤣.

She would be a fantastic scrogger.

Rev's soil and Gaia Powebloom for the full victory.

I can't wait to check out her roots😎
 
Gee man, I have a question. The health of my plants has increased exponentially since I began prepping my soil the way I do, which is the ol-lady-moist-soil-squeeze-test ® watering methodology. I am wondering though, if I would get bigger roots and therefore bigger plants if in future I went back to the wet/ dry cycle?

The reason I ask is that conventional wisdom has it that weed plants are more productive with a wet / dry cycle. I prefer this ol lady way of prepping my soil though. I like how the plants look after themselves and I don't need to stress about getting it wrong.
The Old Lady Method is a great trick to get newbies out of the gate and for clones to root in.

I'm not sure how it works with autos but with photo's it leads to a very full rootball. It's kinda foolproof. Play around with it.

Use your water stik and let it dry down a bit before potting and see if it grows better roots.

Being on a tight timeline like autos are in veg, you could very well see better roots by getting into a wet/dry cycle sooner.

You should dissect your rootballs and see if they filled your pots properly. If you do, bury the roots under in your used soil tub after you finish the dissection so they can decompose.

They are a superior carbon source for next grow, and they are the richest in innoculants to estabblish the next batch of soil.

What the Old Lady method really does is allow calcium to homogenize in the pot in the 1st 10 days or so while the initial drydown is happening. The sooner you get proper tilth and a proper CEC the better. It eliminates a lot of young plant quirks. You want it ready before the roots grow into it.

Recycled soil naturally works better with calcium, so you may be able to get away with a drier start on the rebuilt soil.

You could also fill the pots and let them sit unplanted until the water stik says the moisture level is where you want, and then the life in the soil and the tilth will be starting to establish before you even plant. That may speed root growth.

Start with checking your rootballs to see if they completely filled your pot or not.
 
You can get high brix without testing, but not likely. Calcium and soil moisture are almost never gotten correctly by anyone in LOS. Experienced growers yes, no problem. Most people would have to get lucky a few times, and it's a floating target as the plant and rootball increase.

With a refractometer you can test daily if you want, and the split second calcium starts to drop you can correct it. If you don't then in 7 days a trained eye can see it and in 14 days all eyes see it, so you ran 7-14 days at sub-optimal. That makes high brix tough.

Same for soil moisture. 1% too much water is a 1% oxygen deficiency. Water Stiks are $2-$5.

$20 US should get you both.

On the other hand, if you never have pests like mites, thrips, or aphids then likely you're high brix already.

If you let the top of your pot dry out until it's fairly dry and ready for a good watering, before you water it crumble up the soil surface. If it's already fluffy then calcium is good. If it's crusty at all and you have to break it all up to make it fluffy, you need calmag. Calmag will stop that crudstiness on contact. Use a low dosage mix from the instructions or mix your own to no more than 50ppm. If one watering doesn't fix it the 2nd will, but let it dry down between. You can easily overdo calcium this way. Multiple small doses far exceed one big one.

There are ways without tools to grow bug free plants.
Ok ty,so I def have seen this effect,but mostly on my barky mothers in the past. On more than one occasion my mother's sat unmolested in the midst of various bugs infestations and even pwdymold !! Like I had no idea about brix at the time so was just gonna trash them all but once I started inspecting to get a read on situation, or learn and observe stage of a lost battle lol I clearly could see the untouched nature of my barky mothers with my own eyes and attributed it to the bark or age some how lolol hmmm very cool info ty bro. Is there other signs in the plants behavior or growth that I could use to gauge my brix ?
 
Ok ty,so I def have seen this effect,but mostly on my barky mothers in the past. On more than one occasion my mother's sat unmolested in the midst of various bugs infestations and even pwdymold !! Like I had no idea about brix at the time so was just gonna trash them all but once I started inspecting to get a read on situation, or learn and observe stage of a lost battle lol I clearly could see the untouched nature of my barky mothers with my own eyes and attributed it to the bark or age some how lolol hmmm very cool info ty bro. Is there other signs in the plants behavior or growth that I could use to gauge my brix ?
Not really. You can have a very healthy looking plant, a picture perfect plant, and have it be low brix, and as I showed a few days ago, you can have an ugly yellow leaf that's brixing at 17 I think it was.

So visually you can't really tell but if your plant is young and vibrant and bright green and then all of a sudden for no particular reason it turns a deep army green, thats quite often a cue that you crossed into high brix.

It means she's gained control on nitrogen thru the soil microbes so now she can dial it back to optimal and bricks usually really rips at this stage. Nitrogen can really screw high brix up, so part of the microbes, which are 1 of the 5, is nitrogen fixers. Myco sets it up for you.

If you are going to break 20 brix it's usually on this run.

Visually though all you see is the plant darken up and she seems fine because she's got no issues.

All that being said, if bugs aren't bothering you then I'd bet my lunch money that your already high brix.

High brix mothers create incredible clones that become very strong very fast. Gimme an hour and I'll show you what I mean.

High brix isn't mysterious stuff. It's just natures way under optimal conditions, so if your soil is high in minerals and phosphorus, you just give her some calcium every now and then and water properly.

The hard part is keeping up to her appetite. High brix plants eat more because they photosynthesize more.

The fungus eats more because the sugars jack it up, and the microbes eat more because the sugars jack them up. They now in turn poop more for her and it's better poop.

She creates all their food so she eats a lot. It's almost linear to her brix levels. If your Mommas are pigs, thats a good indicator too.

High brix weed is really nutritious. It's a cornerstone input into my worm farm, so if you constantly trim your mothers back those clippings are the best green compost input you can get. I freeze mine and crush it into a meal in the bags after it freezes. Then I treat it like alfalfa or kelp meal.
 
The Old Lady Method is a great trick to get newbies out of the gate and for clones to root in.

I'm not sure how it works with autos but with photo's it leads to a very full rootball. It's kinda foolproof. Play around with it.
Interesting. Some of the plants produced roots that filled the pots and others not so much. I'll see when this present grow is done.
Use your water stik and let it dry down a bit before potting and see if it grows better roots.

Being on a tight timeline like autos are in veg, you could very well see better roots by getting into a wet/dry cycle sooner.

You should dissect your rootballs and see if they filled your pots properly. If you do, bury the roots under in your used soil tub after you finish the dissection so they can decompose.
I always leave the roots in there for carbon, learnt from you! :)
They are a superior carbon source for next grow, and they are the richest in innoculants to estabblish the next batch of soil.

What the Old Lady method really does is allow calcium to homogenize in the pot in the 1st 10 days or so while the initial drydown is happening. The sooner you get proper tilth and a proper CEC the better. It eliminates a lot of young plant quirks. You want it ready before the roots grow into it.
That's been my goal and my thinking was a moist pot to begin with gets all the activity and life going in there so the microbes and mycos are full steam ahead by the time the roots start making their way through the living soil. I don't believe that I plant the babies into overly moist soil. I do use the water stik. Right now it is telling me to water them and I typically give them 500 ml to moisten the top layers, as the bottoms still feel moist.
Recycled soil naturally works better with calcium, so you may be able to get away with a drier start on the rebuilt soil.
To "get away with" is not what I want 😜 I want to jon and he says I must do wet / dry if I want stems like his and roots like his. I mean he is the auto guy lol Here's the thing though, he hasn't tried the ol lady method, so I don't know if it is some other thing or the wet dry that makes @Jon's plants jon. :cheesygrinsmiley:
You could also fill the pots and let them sit unplanted until the water stik says the moisture level is where you want, and then the life in the soil and the tilth will be starting to establish before you even plant. That may speed root growth.
Here's what I do. I turn the amended soil and leave it in the black totes to cook. When I plant seeds I prepare the big pots and cover them with bin bags so they don't completely dry out. Typically, the bottoms of the pots feel moister than the sides, which makes me think that gravity is pulling the water downwards whilst the roots are still finding their way towards it. Bear in mind that those pots sit teaming with micro herd for three weeks while the babies sprout and grow big enough for transplant. The water stik will show upper levels of green if I've done it right.
Start with checking your rootballs to see if they completely filled your pot or not.
I'll try to remember to take pics when I harvest this latest plant. I'm not even going to look at what is going on with the "Big" Angel lol. That variegated plant is so weak it's not worth the lights. I might put it outside if it doesn't show any movement within the next week or so.
 
Interesting. Some of the plants produced roots that filled the pots and others not so much. I'll see when this present grow is done.

I always leave the roots in there for carbon, learnt from you! :)

That's been my goal and my thinking was a moist pot to begin with gets all the activity and life going in there so the microbes and mycos are full steam ahead by the time the roots start making their way through the living soil. I don't believe that I plant the babies into overly moist soil. I do use the water stik. Right now it is telling me to water them and I typically give them 500 ml to moisten the top layers, as the bottoms still feel moist.

To "get away with" is not what I want 😜 I want to jon and he says I must do wet / dry if I want stems like his and roots like his. I mean he is the auto guy lol Here's the thing though, he hasn't tried the ol lady method, so I don't know if it is some other thing or the wet dry that makes @Jon's plants jon. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Here's what I do. I turn the amended soil and leave it in the black totes to cook. When I plant seeds I prepare the big pots and cover them with bin bags so they don't completely dry out. Typically, the bottoms of the pots feel moister than the sides, which makes me think that gravity is pulling the water downwards whilst the roots are still finding their way towards it. Bear in mind that those pots sit teaming with micro herd for three weeks while the babies sprout and grow big enough for transplant. The water stik will show upper levels of green if I've done it right.

I'll try to remember to take pics when I harvest this latest plant. I'm not even going to look at what is going on with the "Big" Angel lol. That variegated plant is so weak it's not worth the lights. I might put it outside if it doesn't show any movement within the next week or so.
If your rootballs aren't fully stuffing your pots then Jon's right. Dry down your soil until it's about 8 on the water stik and then plant. Start the wet dry cycle sooner.

You have to fill your pots out, that's paramount to a big plant. Big plants eat more.

The Old Lady method is actually perfect for cloning and seed sprouting, but works really well for cooking, and even though it's actually too wet for LOS, it's way more stable than what most growers are comfortable with. Most go way wetter and keep watering.

The Old Lady method is actually where your soil should be after a full watering. So you can only squeeze out a drop or two.

You will never squeeze a drop of water out of soil at optimum moisture levels. Optimum levels are uncomfortably un-wet for most folks.

Next time your grow shows a 5-6 on the water probe take a handful of dirt out and squeeze test it. It's really important to know what properly moist soil looks like. Smell it too. Wet soil smells different than proper moisture. Proper soil smells better.

Next grow maybe dry down all your pots to varying degrees and see which one works best. Use your probe to chart the starting levels.

As long as you start out Old Lady wet calcium will properly homogenize. If you want to build your pot 5-10 days early to let it dry down, calcium will homogenize before you even plant into it.

Fill your pots with an empty pot the size of the pot your coming out of buried in up top so when it dries down you can pop it out and drop the transplant straight in without disturbing the majority of the pot. Dust the hole and the rootball with myco, mist it down, and drop it straight in.

Then just water the original rootball at 1st and sparingly as needed and the roots will chase right out into the big pot as it continues to dry down.
 
Not really. You can have a very healthy looking plant, a picture perfect plant, and have it be low brix, and as I showed a few days ago, you can have an ugly yellow leaf that's brixing at 17 I think it was.

So visually you can't really tell but if your plant is young and vibrant and bright green and then all of a sudden for no particular reason it turns a deep army green, thats quite often a cue that you crossed into high brix.

It means she's gained control on nitrogen thru the soil microbes so now she can dial it back to optimal and bricks usually really rips at this stage. Nitrogen can really screw high brix up, so part of the microbes, which are 1 of the 5, is nitrogen fixers. Myco sets it up for you.

If you are going to break 20 brix it's usually on this run.

Visually though all you see is the plant darken up and she seems fine because she's got no issues.

All that being said, if bugs aren't bothering you then I'd bet my lunch money that your already high brix.

High brix mothers create incredible clones that become very strong very fast. Gimme an hour and I'll show you what I mean.

High brix isn't mysterious stuff. It's just natures way under optimal conditions, so if your soil is high in minerals and phosphorus, you just give her some calcium every now and then and water properly.

The hard part is keeping up to her appetite. High brix plants eat more because they photosynthesize more.

The fungus eats more because the sugars jack it up, and the microbes eat more because the sugars jack them up. They now in turn poop more for her and it's better poop.

She creates all their food so she eats a lot. It's almost linear to her brix levels. If your Mommas are pigs, thats a good indicator too.

High brix weed is really nutritious. It's a cornerstone input into my worm farm, so if you constantly trim your mothers back those clippings are the best green compost input you can get. I freeze mine and crush it into a meal in the bags after it freezes. Then I treat it like alfalfa or kelp meal.
Ok I see, that absolutely explained my past experiences.nice nice good to know. I attempt to replicate those growing conditions as best as I can with all my grows. I have some knowledge of microbes and soil building, When mushrooms,fungus and cover crops start growing on top soil can that correlate aswell ? I do not add my trim to my compost out of fear of seeding a pest but it sounds like I'm missing out and will start using the the trim in my comptote.I do comp my roots to help seed the microbial life to newer soils and I reuse and amend soil also. Thank for all the info and clearing things up my friend I appreciate you
 
Here's what I mean when I say high brix mothers create better clones. These clones were put into the cloner 42 days ago. They popped 1st roots on day 7.

The cloner only has RO water in it. It's a 2 gallon reservoir and I have had to add 1.5 gallons twice now, so they have transpired over 3 gallons in 6 weeks.

All the sugars in the cuttings, which are from brix 18 mothers, is feeding them for 6 weeks and counting.

The mother plant that produced the cuttings in the blue pucks on the right side was given aloe vera water once, otherwise both mothers were treated identically.

The aloe water shows in the clones. They have all grown over doubling in size and the side branching is growing and perfectly healthy but the aloe clones are brighter and have all grown 1 node taller than the non aloe clones. Interesting.

The yellow tint to the roots is the Sunblaster. They are vibrantly white.

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Here's what I mean when I say high brix mothers create better clones. These clones were put into the cloner 42 days ago. They popped 1st roots on day 7.

The cloner only has RO water in it. It's a 2 gallon reservoir and I have had to add 1.5 gallons twice now, so they have transpired over 3 gallons in 6 weeks.

All the sugars in the cuttings, which are from brix 18 mothers, is feeding them for 6 weeks and counting.

The mother plant that produced the cuttings in the blue pucks on the right side was given aloe vera water once, otherwise both mothers were treated identically.

The aloe water shows in the clones. They have all grown over doubling in size and the side branching is growing and perfectly healthy but the aloe clones are brighter and have all grown 1 node taller than the non aloe clones. Interesting.

The yellow tint to the roots is the Sunblaster. They are vibrantly white.

20241203_071209.jpg


20241203_071213.jpg


20241203_071239.jpg


20241203_071247.jpg


20241203_071307.jpg


20241203_071318.jpg


20241203_071335.jpg
No way bro u capping !!! That's 7 day roots !!!
 
No way bro u capping !!! That's 7 day roots !!!
No lol thats 42 day roots. They started popping roots on day 7. It was about day 18 that they got to this stage. Then the roots quit growing and the foliage started.

Carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen are 93% of the drymatter of a plant, and all 3 come from air and water, so if there's enough sugars in the leaves for energy you can grow a plant fairly well on nothing but RO water.

If I put a few drops of calmag in the cloner those sugars would ignite and they would really grow, but the calmag plugs the jets with buildup.

It's never good to push clones anyways. Once they link to myco or you start feeding them, push as hard as you want.
 
Hey Maritimer✌️😊👊. Garden Love right back atcha brother❤️😊.

What brix is, is a scale to show the percentage of sugars in a plant's sap. Depending on who you listen to, a brix level of either 13 or 14 is where plants become too high in sugars for bugs to consume, and too healthy for pathogens to take hold.

I'm not sure about the pathogen part because I live in a desert and the nearest fungal spore is a few hundred miles away🤣. It's just too dry here for budrot and PM and such.

How it works in a plant is quite simple. The more you can photosynthesize sugars, the higher your brix levels will be.

Plants create sugars and send roughly half of those sugars down to the roots to exudate out into the soil for the soil microlife to eat, as it's a pure high carbon diet. It's soil microbes favorite food.

So when the roots squirt it into the dirt the microlife eats the dirt to get the sugar, and the root waits for the sugar-dirt poop to come out of the microbe.

The limitation in general growing is that if you use synthetics there is no longer a need for microbes, therefore no need for exudates, therefore less sugars internally and a long story short.... You can get high brix with synthetics but it's hard work and you have to force it from start to harvest.

Now in Living Soil, like I use, my plant will strive as hard as it can to become high brix because it has a pot full of microbes to support in order to get some poop to eat, no free ride synthetics kicking around.

So now it comes down to efficiency, because the plant needs to create twice the amount of sugars it needs in order to feed itself and the soil.

When it reaches the point that it can support everything running full steam and still turn a profit on sugar, you are now both high brix and sequestering carbon.

At this point the plant is simply too healthy for bugs.

The trick is in how do you get to lets say brix 14 to be really safe?

It's actually really easy and there is hard science behind it.

You need to reach optimal levels of 5 things, and it needs to be achieved in an environment with adequate light and abundance of all minerals so photosynthesis itself isn't compromised, as really all you're doing is boosting the photosynthesis of sugars.

Once you have light and minerals covered it these 5 things in balance.

Carbon, oxygen, calcium, phosphorus, and beneficial aerobic soil microbes/myco fungii.

The calcium feeds the plant as it needs to intake calcium, but it also creates tilth in your soil if it is correctly balanced with magnesium, such as dolomite lime.

That tilth gives water and air unhindered passage between your soil particles, so if you water correctly then proper soil calcium creates proper oxygen. That's 2 down. Carbon comes from the air. Thats 3 down. Innoculating the pot with myco fungii and EWC brings the beneficial aerobic microbes, so now it's just phosphorus, and all you do there is make sure it's in your global soil mix.

That's it really, but calcium is the lynch pin. If it gets low, brix crash. If it get's too high, leaves fry and now you can't photosynthesize so brix crash.

The trick is to buy a 20 dollar analog, not digital, refractometer. It will tell you your brix levels but it will also tell you your calcium levels. That's extremely handy.

And a cheapo $5 single probe soil moisture meter. I know what you're thinking, but you need a guage to dry or wet your soil just a smidge to control oxygen, or again, if it goes out of balance, like from over watering, brix will crash.

So you need a good LOS mix, a refractometer and water stik, and cloth pots will greatly aid the cause, it's an oxygen thing, but you can do it in hard pots too.

If you have any questions or if you decide to try it and want a hand, please ask, I don't mind helping. 👍😊👊

If you follow the rules of LOS, and build a good calcium and mineral rich soil high brix just happens.

If gou want or need a soil recipe I can give you the one I use. If gou're familiar with growing organically then getting brix up is quite easy.
Aye we thank you fer the explanation of yer brix analytics. My brother Commodore Otter is a LOS master as well. My methods are driven in the opposite direction. Me ancestry of Pole is probably to blame. I kick the sacred cows and take off running laughing my butt off.
In all seriousness, I am more comfortable with soilless substrates consisting mainly of peat and perlite. Presently my crews are in SIP containers and performing well as I get ready to resume drought rezination in Kitty Litter containers. Trying to get the flow of the new garden and see what works best for multiple ag methods.
Your living soil garden has my love as you select your next crew.
 
No way bro u capping !!! That's 7 day roots !!!
Wow that's nuts,I have never rooted a clone like that so fast,that's def genetics and brix your saying...nice bro now I know what I'm looking for thank you
No lol thats 42 day roots. They started popping roots on day 7. It was about day 18 that they got to this stage. Then the roots quit growing and the foliage started.

Carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen are 93% of the drymatter of a plant, and all 3 come from air and water, so if there's enough sugars in the leaves for energy you can grow a plant fairly well on nothing but RO water.

If I put a few drops of calmag in the cloner those sugars would ignite and they would really grow, but the calmag plugs the jets with buildup.

It's never good to push clones anyways. Once they link to myco or you start feeding them, push as hard as you want.
Bro lolol.....I was like ok I need to stalk this dude til I can at least do half of what you doing ...lolol
 
Aye we thank you fer the explanation of yer brix analytics. My brother Commodore Otter is a LOS master as well. My methods are driven in the opposite direction. Me ancestry of Pole is probably to blame. I kick the sacred cows and take off running laughing my butt off.
In all seriousness, I am more comfortable with soilless substrates consisting mainly of peat and perlite. Presently my crews are in SIP containers and performing well as I get ready to resume drought rezination in Kitty Litter containers. Trying to get the flow of the new garden and see what works best for multiple ag methods.
Your living soil garden has my love as you select your next crew.
Thanks Maritimer❤️👊😊. If you start a journal please let us know.

I like the science of droughting. I've fiddled with it a bit and seen it work but it's way to potent for me. It's very intriguing tho. If you ever display it again I'd love to watch.
 
Hehe maybe I should sell clones. Matt, wanna buy a clone?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
40 bucks a piece here! How crazy is that!
Aye we thank you fer the explanation of yer brix analytics. My brother Commodore Otter is a LOS master as well. My methods are driven in the opposite direction. Me ancestry of Pole is probably to blame. I kick the sacred cows and take off running laughing my butt off.
In all seriousness, I am more comfortable with soilless substrates consisting mainly of peat and perlite. Presently my crews are in SIP containers and performing well as I get ready to resume drought rezination in Kitty Litter containers. Trying to get the flow of the new garden and see what works best for multiple ag methods.
Your living soil garden has my love as you select your next crew.
Bater maybe! :) but thanks for the accolade! There's a lot to jam into this squash! LOS isn't simple to me! I'm getting there though!
 
My favorite part of the grow. Taking the engine apart after the race🥰

Miss Sticky - Day 72
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Let's see how the split under the duct tape healed.

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Still split.

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But fully healed over.

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.
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Straight out of the bag.

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A light shake starts to reveal her roots.

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Look at the mat of feeder roots up top in the top dress zone.

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