The Gee Spot - You Finally Found It

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Day 52 and still no sex showing. Lots of clones in there though🤣.
I'm really hoping its a Girl.

The swicking is still swicking, using 1 litre today. The heater has things moving in a better direction too. It still looks a little cold but much better.
 
Azimuth said:
I just measured my Jadam ferts and they came in at 149 ppm.

Also, ordered my brix meter. I still get bugs so no doubt my brix levels aren't where they could be, but it will be interesting to get a baseline and build on it from there.
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Any idea what the npk of the Jadam ferts should be, even roughly? Are they high in P by chance?
 
Gee64 said:
149! Thats cool stuff Azi!

That may be strong on a young plant but you could water it down. Probably perfect in flower😎

Thats a great level for slow steady feeding.

Do you think its clean enough to water down to a foliar?
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That  is the flower mix. I do two parts veg plus one part fruit and flower.

I keep separate individual extracts and then combine them into a working jug, screening them as they get added so they should get through my sprayer just fine.
 
Gee64 said:
Any idea what the npk of the Jadam ferts should be, even roughly? Are they high in P by chance?
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Unfortunately, my reference source doesn't list the N value, but does everything else. The two main ingredients are comfrey and stinging nettle which are both supposedly high in N, but I have no idea what that value is.

I saw a table given by @farside05 that showed the NPK levels of certain strains in both veg and Flower, and the ratios of my mix of the other elements seem to be in the neighborhood.

Here's a table I posted in my 'Alchemy' thread showing the other nute levels in ppm:
Azimuth said:
Another really good combo looks to be Comfrey/S.Nettle. The two are very complimentary to each other. Really good Cal/Mag and less Cl, Na, and Al. Better P, K, Ca, Mg, S, but a bit lighter on Fe, and Si when compared to dandelion.

If you pick complimentary plants, i.e. where one is high for a particular nutrient and the other is low, you can get a pretty nice profile that is reasonably strong in most without having too much of any one thing.

I looked at the ppm's from products like Jack's and their P:K ratio was about 1:6, so any of the combos shown are about in that ballpark.

.................................P.............K..........Ca..........Mg..........Fe.........Si...........S.............Cl...........Na.........Al...
Fish (FAA)............836.8......1,013....718.8.......105.7.....2.57.....0.29....127.2......1,000.....109.3.......1.31

Comfrey..............270.8.......1,025....31.52......34.15.....2.06.....15.4......8.32............80.......0.58......0.31
S.Nettle...............35.34..........376........861.........141.....1.57.....24.6.....70.17.....1,050.......0.55........0.9
.....(av).................153.07.....700.5.....446.3......87.58.....1.82......20.0....39.25........565.......0.57.......0.61

Dandelion......... ....128..........485........143.......53.4......3.17.......28.......33.5......1,340.......3.25.......2.51
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Azimuth said:
That  is the flower mix. I do two parts veg plus one part fruit and flower.

I keep separate individual extracts and then combine them into a working jug, screening them as they get added so they should get through my sprayer just fine.
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Dang Dude! Have you tried it on a grow yet? If so how did it work?
 
Azimuth said:
Unfortunately, my reference source doesn't list the N value, but does everything else. The two main ingredients are comfrey and stinging nettle which are both supposedly high in N, but I have no idea what that value is.

I saw a table given by @farside05 that showed the NPK levels of certain strains in both veg and Flower, and the ratios of my mix of the other elements seem to be in the neighborhood.

Here's a table I posted in my 'Alchemy' thread showing the other nute levels in ppm:
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I'm not sure if I'm reading it correctly. N is missing so the 1st 3 numbers are P,K, and Calcium? if so thats a good mix. Maybe a bit strong on K but still in the ballpark.
 
So lots of talk about calcium freeing up nitro and mag lately. Low calcium isn't always the problem, but here is an example of something that shows it in action.
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All the clawed leaves are from a couple weeks ago I added dolomite to the res, at 60ppm I think, and I got nitrogen toxicity across the whole plant from the initial rush of nitrogen in one layer. It recovered on its own.

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The layer across the plant left a mark lol.
 
Shew I am still on page one. There is a lot of good stuff here.

Gee64 said:
Then I chop and I am already 11 days into the cure starting with these heads.
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I'm a bit confuddled. Does this mean you are droughting for 11 days and jarring straight away? You don't hang first?
Gee64 said:
Think about it for a second... when you chop and cure, the regulated slow dehydration of a long cure makes your weed more potent by pulling from the trim you leave on, so why not pull from the entire plant and get way more from it.

I call it Live Curing.
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Makes a lot of sense. Please will you explain your process very briefly, or will I find that somewhere between page 1 and 10? I intend to read the lot but in stages because it is a lot to take in.
Gee64 said:
To be honest I read about it, tried it, the small science I read on it states the weed is actually still alive but without nutes it converts chlorophyl to resins still trying to protect the calyxes and the slower the dry the more it can convert until it fully dies. I thought lets try it. It seemed a noticable difference in taste and potency so droughting really made sense, just not at day 42, do it for the last 11 days straight into the hanging/jar. The trichs are wicked but I havent actually smoked it yet. It kinda scares me🤪
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OK!!! Sorry I am exhausted, this has answered my last question to you.
greenjeans said:
OK OK, the cookies have kicked in.....I had a good response!!!!!.....it was right there!!!!........
Oh Man....can I get back to you????!!!!??? :rofl:
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I need some wedding cake now and later I hope to get to page 2 :laugh:

Gee, have you or anyone else here ever droughted an auto, or would that put too much strain on the plant?
 
Carmen Ray said:
Shew I am still on page one. There is a lot of good stuff here.


I'm a bit confuddled. Does this mean you are droughting for 11 days and jarring straight away? You don't hang first?

Makes a lot of sense. Please will you explain your process very briefly, or will I find that somewhere between page 1 and 10? I intend to read the lot but in stages because it is a lot to take in.

OK!!! Sorry I am exhausted, this has answered my last question to you.

I need some wedding cake now and later I hope to get to page 2 :laugh:

Gee, have you or anyone else here ever droughted an auto, or would that put too much strain on the plant?
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When I drought, which isn't often, I do it straight into harvest. I still hang but not for as long, until it gets sweated and jarred.

I have never grown an auto but I hear that growing them in taller cylindrical pots gets better results than shorter wider pots.

Sorry auto's aren't my thing. I like pheno hunting and I like sciencing clones.

I have seen some really pretty autos tho, my buddies wife grows them on her patio. The hairs are all sorts of colors. Really gorgeous plants.
 
Gee64 said:
I like pheno hunting and I like sciencing clones.
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That sounds like a lot of fun Gee. Thank you for the tip on the taller pots. I like the cloth pots and I don't think they come in tall. Time for another rabbit hole... "go ask Alice when she's ten feet tall."
 
Dolo water is still at 8.1.. it dipped to 8.05 a few hours after aeration was cut and then drifted back up.

This is wildly frustrating because there is extremely limited information on it and Skunk magazine site is all broken.

It makes sense to me that DL would pull Ph up to 7 but to have the ability to lower PH as well makes me very suspicious.. That’s not how acids and alkalines work in my experience.

There’s gotta be something both of us overlooking.
 
7 liters RO plus 1 tsp of DL aerated for 24 hours.. correct? Maintained temp at 71 the entire time although temperature has no noticeable effect on my Ph I’ve found.

I got the same results when I did 1/8 tsp in 4 L.. I wonder if I should try to go with even more DL.. perhaps a tbsp
 
Keffka said:
Dolo water is still at 8.1.. it dipped to 8.05 a few hours after aeration was cut and then drifted back up.

This is wildly frustrating because there is extremely limited information on it and Skunk magazine site is all broken.

It makes sense to me that DL would pull Ph up to 7 but to have the ability to lower PH as well makes me very suspicious.. That’s not how acids and alkalines work in my experience.

There’s gotta be something both of us overlooking.
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I agree. Maybe try a different brand?
 
Keffka said:
7 liters RO plus 1 tsp of DL aerated for 24 hours.. correct? Maintained temp at 71 the entire time although temperature has no noticeable effect on my Ph I’ve found.

I got the same results when I did 1/8 tsp in 4 L.. I wonder if I should try to go with even more DL.. perhaps a tbsp
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I would try it. I started with 1/8 tsp/litre and ended up at 1tsp/7litres to get ph just right.

Could your bucket be tainted from teas? I keep my water buckets seperate.
 
Gee64 said:
lol let me know if you try it, I'm curious.
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Gee, I if I can find fabric pots, I will definitely do it. I have read it in a couple of places. I can't understand why that would be though. Any idea?
 
Keffka said:
I’m gonna run this exact formula again and see what happens but I’m not confident

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I've been doing a modified version of that for a few grows. I put a half tsp in 2 cups of ro stirr and sit. Every time I want to water I stir, and draw off 5 or 10 ml and put it into each gallon. I do this until the 2 cups are gone. It lasts for most of the grow.
 
Gee64 said:
I would try it. I started with 1/8 tsp/litre and ended up at 1tsp/7litres to get ph just right.

Could your bucket be tainted from teas? I keep my water buckets seperate.
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Nah.. A) the bucket gets rinsed immediately after teas then bleached and rinsed after watering (B) this is also occurring in a smaller cleaner container as well.

There were some purity differences in our DLs perhaps it is as simple as requiring lesser or greater amounts. It’s why I’ve gone back to square 1.

StoneOtter said:
I've been doing a modified version of that for a few grows. I put a half tsp in 2 cups of ro stirr and sit. Every time I want to water I stir, and draw off 5 or 10 ml and put it into each gallon. I do this until the 2 cups are gone. It lasts for most of the grow.
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I was thinking about stirring.. it would cause the water PH to rise far less just stirring it occasionally and it would still dissolve into the water. I’ll likely have to go this route if I can’t figure out a way to buffer the aeration swing better
 
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