Don't want to thread jack and go off topic, but I feel the need to explain this good question.. Do want to apologize in advance bigirishdoode and hope you already got the New replacement
Our ballast is design to take abuse from improper wiring, broken/low amp/breaker, weak wiring etc that could cause a mayhem. (The ballast will act as the core of the setup and shut down).
Our ballast was originally design for the Euro market, with this in mind the ballast have to be GE certified, in which is one of the toughest certification to get. To make it simple, any chance of external problems the ballast need to automatically shutoff or else there is no chance of getting it certified. The ballast does have a internal relay type system, but it have to be taken apart to change it (99% of the time this is the cause of the problem), not something we recommend the customer to DIY.
Pros: Ballast take all the abuse to prevent mayhem, we reduce the possibility to less than 1%. Fully effective and the highest output ballast on the market.
Cons: Dead ballast more often at 120V from the mention above. However, when re-wire to 240V is less than 1% issues. We had seen couple of cases already with 120V wiring setup, ZERO with 240V.
Now, there are lots of ballast on the market that does not need much amperage as our ballast, and here are the 2 main reasons.
1) Most of them are under power, over rated wattage, actual output is much less.
2) Some soft start programming doesn't bring the ballast to full operation wattage, does draw a lower amp.
Our company's priority is to make a SAFE product that will last! We guarantee our product once install properly you can sleep tight at night, and do exactly what it design to do!
If anyone have any questions or wants a better understanding please feel free to e-mail us, I don't want to turn this thread in to a question/answer thread.
lol
