The 420 Fotographer Collective: Advanced Cannabis Photography

I.S.O. ,,, international standards organization

ya know,, this i.s.o. thing has been a thorn in my side ever since i got my first digital camera.

:snooze::trance::scratchinghead:

now jump ahead to the digital age,,

no film at all,

so no silver particle differences

but still an I.S.O. setting,,, hmmmmm, are we being manipulated here??? frikin big brother,, ha

anyway,, i.s.o now days is simply an image degradation button, and is only a tool to use when light is low, tho one should be using a tripod when light is low

keep the i.s.o. at it's lowest setting, and leave it there, if one is the least bit serious. one should feel guilty every single time one uses it.

i will point out the absolutely legitimate creative purposes of the i.s.o. setting as well. nuff said about that right there

i maybe should have been much more elegant in my explanation but i have this thorn in my side, and it bloody hurts,,

:volcano-smiley:

Higher ISO settings aren't only for light they also allow for a wide open aperture and faster shutter speeds for capturing action. That is the primary reason the ISO setting remains on cameras and I'm certain that the camera, when used in the "full preprogram or icon modes" will divert the ISO setting to 'Auto.'

There is also the creative use of ISO and graininess and that is certainly applicable with regard to our discussion about still life photography and cannabis.

I do agree with you though about using tripods and setting the camera on the lowest possible ISO.
 
Anyway,, ya, right,,does all those things

And more, but at a cost

Image quality

Which was my whole point, completely

Glad I could make it again, thanks
 
This is useful when you want to focus on the depth of an image. For example nug photos, where you want the nug to be the centre of attention, and the background to be blurred out. You could use the aperture priority mode and choose the lowest aperture setting.

The opposite is also useful, taking a photo of a nice cola, and you want the other colas to be in focus. You would use a higher aperture setting to bring that background into focus.

I hope this helps someone.

It truly does UA! I have used Aperture mode since forever and always aiming for the one that gave me the longest shutter speed - I realise now that this is giving me close or shallow depth of field and I should experiment with the wider ones for more depth of field. I'm picking up my camera (with freshly recharged batteries) and heading out to the garden right now! (I am so behind on journal updates and this impromptu class is going to delay that even further! My pics will get better tho')

:smokin:
 
Amy,, ha

You are not the first to be confused by the f.stop/aperture relationship. Nor will you be the last

Remembering back now it took me years before the crazy way cameras work became second nature. This anti relationship with the numbers for the settings, just so confusing.

I just went through this with my daughter recently,, it can be difficult to work out quickly in ones head.. Hence the popularity of the 'auto'mode

No tricks I could give you either, I never found one

I think what you stated was correct, smallest aperture is most depth of field but needs the most light, so longer shutter speeds

Never take a shot at less than 1/60 without a tripod, or, gods forbid, a flash

Cheers
 
You are not the first to be confused by the f.stop/aperture relationship. Nor will you be the last
Cheers - it’s more the way that ISO comes into the equation that has me head scratching. I think I have my understanding of ISO a bit skewed. I think I’ve had the basics of the aperture/shutter speed thing ingrained since birth :passitleft:
 
just playing around with my camera took some raw images at iso200 the last two are different because the sun got real bright on the blind and it lit up the room!
DSC_0002184.jpg
DSC_0008177.jpg
DSC_0016157.jpg
DSC_0019124.jpg
 
If anyone is ever in the market for used glass check out this forum. I've bought and sold almost all my bodies and glass over the years from here without a single hick up. Thousands of dollars worth. The buy and sell forum sees mainly Canon and Nikon bodies and lenses. The selection is always really good.
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FM Forums
 
Here's the ISO laid out, sorry if I was indirect on the last comment.

Here's my attempt at being a professional professor and not pontificate...

ISO Setting is telling the camera how to use the light meter. And yes! That means how the camera reads and processes light. In the four manual modes you are able to read the light meter and adjust your setting(s) accordingly. In Manual Mode you have full control of the camera and utilize the light meter to make your exposure(s).

The higher the ISO number the grainier your images may appear. There are a number of ways to utilize the ISO and is really only limited by your imagination.

There are some basics to know however and I will list them below.

1. ISO allows photographers to shoot in a lower light situations. ISO communicates to the rest of the camera the lighting conditions and how the camera should record the light.

2. ISO allows photographers to shoot sports and fast action, day or night, especially coupled with the correct lens. With an ISO of 1600, in moderate outdoor lighting, action photography, such as skateboarding or cheerleading, can be captured at night.

3. The graininess, inherent with higher ISO's, can also be applied in the artistic realm, perhaps to add dramatic appeal or wherever your imagination takes you.

The above three examples are the basics of ISO, however you may be able to apply it another way.

Go out and play with your ISO today!
 
Well, your confusion with the I.s.o. Relationship kinda confirms my point.

Because there is no relationship, no actual physical reasoning for calling what the setting does, what it is called. It is not an I.s.o settimg, it is just called that

The setting uses less light to take a lower quality image, end of story

In my most humble opinion,,

I try to Take the romanticism out of the picture and deal with the facts

But I guess maybe i am missing your point

So, think of I.s.o.as one useful stop you can use, when light conditions are not ideal, without having to change fstop or shutter speed,

But, always at the cost of image quality, which of course is not always ones primary concern
 
Only because this topic interest me greatly, I would like to make one more point about the I.s.o. Subject.

This only for me because I know few others could care less

So, I am going to put my high hat on just for a minute, and try to make an irrefutable point

Ok, this my high hat talkin now,,,,just to me

I mentioned before about my history with photography and my passion with it as well. So few these days even know what passion is, but another story

I attempted too make a living as a fine art photographer, for years. I was good too

Not another soul touched my photographs from the time they were taken till the framed print was hung on the wall. I did every bit of it. Just sayin, because

Quality was everything to me, from start to finish. Still is in my other artistic endevours

My camera qnd gear was my work tools, and i took em everywhere I went, everywhere

And did I mention quality was everything.

I had some cool gear, great big cameras and printers. Was fun

So here is the point, from my highest level

I had a specific purpose when I went photo hunting, I knew what that purpose was and ' I had the tools I needed' to fulfill my purpose, which was to get the absolute highest quality photo that my camera was capable of

When one uses the I.s.o. Setting to dumb down a photo, or one might call it saving a pic that otherwise would be missed, one is 'PURPOSELY' setting' ones camera to take a lower quality photo. That goes against the grain for my purposes

Again, if one is serious, or perhaps even passionate about any artistic endevour, find a way to get the proper tools to fit your needs, and never ever sacrifice quality
 
Of course Urb takes the fun one! Although, I've got some ideas for covering shutter speed, I don't wanna step on your toes so I'll wait a day or so and throw together a nice tutorial with blurry pictures.

I also like the Shutter Priority, long exposures, or stopping water drops. But doesn't have a ton of application to the garden.

I am just dropping out a bunch of examples and ideas for content to post. Essentially kickstarting the vision I had for the thread. Hoping everyone else will follow.

Getting things out of my system lol.
 
P11700053.JPG


and this is the kinda quality i'm talkin about
 
Thanks to what Urban wrote at the beginning, like pages ago now, I've just finally worked out how to change the white balance in my camera to allow natural colour pictures under the pink/purple LEDs. I'm stoked - no more faffing about with photoshop when al I'm trying to do is a quick update. It won't be relevant to me until winter hits here, but in case anyone else has a similar kind of camera I'll include some pics of the setting in mine (pics taken on my iPad).

Here's the menu options...

b9da21fea20b7402350dad58bb664258.jpg


afd4f8f8d780b699023133f075a1ef9d.jpg


I now realise that the little icon at the bottom is asking for the grey card that Urban mentioned.

5864bd9c33478f617e531260b49598f8.jpg


I am assuming now that once on this screen (below) i hold the grey card in front while in the light I'll be photographing in, and hit OK!
b24b23d5a32206fc04deab54fe53b93a.jpg


Super - no more blurple!! What a great thread! I'm sure I'm going be able to go back the manual now and understand it a bit more.

:Namaste:
 
Thanks to what Urban wrote at the beginning, like pages ago now, I've just finally worked out how to change the white balance in my camera to allow natural colour pictures under the pink/purple LEDs. I'm stoked - no more faffing about with photoshop when al I'm trying to do is a quick update. It won't be relevant to me until winter hits here, but in case anyone else has a similar kind of camera I'll include some pics of the setting in mine (pics taken on my iPad).

Here's the menu options...

b9da21fea20b7402350dad58bb664258.jpg


afd4f8f8d780b699023133f075a1ef9d.jpg


I now realise that the little icon at the bottom is asking for the grey card that Urban mentioned.

5864bd9c33478f617e531260b49598f8.jpg


I am assuming now that once on this screen (below) i hold the grey card in front while in the light I'll be photographing in, and hit OK!
b24b23d5a32206fc04deab54fe53b93a.jpg


Super - no more blurple!! What a great thread! I'm sure I'm going be able to go back the manual now and understand it a bit more.

:Namaste:

Take the picture of the grey card first. Then go to that screen, and it will pull up your latest photo to choose as the white balance object. I think. You are 90% there lol.

Well done!
 
I also like the Shutter Priority, long exposures, or stopping water drops. But doesn’t have a ton of application to the garden.

I am just dropping out a bunch of examples and ideas for content to post. Essentially kickstarting the vision I had for the thread. Hoping everyone else will follow.

Getting things out of my system lol.

:ganjamon::hookah::bongrip::Rasta::roorrip::blunt:
 
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