The 420 Fotographer Collective: Advanced Cannabis Photography

Wowsers! Isn't this just rollicking along? :bravo:

Glad you posted about ISO jus now Agemon... I had already popped a bit in my bio about it, due to a mistake I made with it recently! I haven't read the last 5 pages yet, will catch up after this!

Username:

Amy Gardner

Grow method and strains:

Really only on my 3rd-4th grow so auditioning chemovars and auditioning methods. Presently, for my first 'taking it seriously' grow, I'm outdoor and aiming for some middle ground between the mineralised soil approach of high-brix gardening and living organic. Current chemovars are Professor Chaos (TGASubcool/Homegrown Natural Wonders), CBD Critical Cure (Barney's Farm), Money Bush (Afghani x Critical Mass - Heavyweight). Have just put a 'solstice round' of seeds in (on Xmas eve): 2 from a mate that he thinks is Golden Tiger x Northern lights, and 1 Ice (Female seeds freebie) - experimenting with training these along the ground and/or up a wall. I'll do another winter grow box experiment in a few months

Camera, Lenses and Gear:

I use an Olympus SP500UZ which I bought new in 2006. As a point and shoot it was a step up from most at the time and it still takes a good pic for me. My only beef over the years has been that I've not really been able tot get prints at any decent size and maintain the digital sharpness because of the low megapixels (6MP - which was awesome at the time for a non DSLR). I underestimated how much I was going to like my own photos!

I also use my iPhone SE sometimes - it's a great camera.

I have a GoPro Hero3 that I'm learning how to use.

Experience level and photography background:

Amatuer hobbyist. Background as a performance and sound artist (nightclubs, circus, physical theatre) and DJ/producer and always loved taking photos. More recently i've Studied philosophy. ONe way pr another they're all about framing, whether the frame I sonic, visual, spatial or how you frame a thought... My father was a professional photographer - flora, landscapes, wilderness - and I accompanied him on many a feild trip, carrying the bag of lenses and the special homemade light reflector that we'd make, or touch up before we left. It was my job to hold it just right to get the sunlight hitting a flower (or whatever plant - but sooo many flowers ;)) while he took the shots (and directed me a little). So I learned about light, and faking it, from an early age. I studied photography in my last year of high school too and loved it (we made pinhole cameras from scratch out of cardboard - that was awesome). All of that was pre digital, so I've kind of known about fStop and shutter speed relationships and composition as if I grew up with it, but only at a basic level. I've spent many years without a camera at all so haven't done a lot of photography until recent years (the last 15 - when you're nearly 50, that's recent years ;)) I am self taught in photoshop but not done a lot with my own photogaphy (mostly CD cover art and posters etc) but I did recently colour correct some blur pleas using the PS white balance adjustment - but I used white, not grey.

What is your style? (portrait, journal, macro, outdoor, instructional, various)
Textural, portraits of nature. Sometimes it's narrative and sometimes it's just all about a single moment in time.

Favourite lens or type of shot:
Ooh too many - I love macros, but also huge wide angle landscapes. Seeing as I don't have any lenses or the capacity to change them, it matters little.

If you could give 1 tip for new photographers:
Let it have the gift of your time.
(And I echo here the others' notes about cropping and deleting - take lots, delete almost as many and crop when needed... hence the gift of time)

Other introductory options:

Please share 1 of you favourite photos and explain why it works so well for you. What equipment did you use?

I love this because I couldn't see at all what I was doing, I just wanted to get a look at the trich production under the canopy of a very small auto. I used flash to kill the blurple (or bplink!) as much as possible and just stuck my hand with camera down there, took aim and hoped the auto focus would get it right - and it did. It was then cropped. So the photographic success is satisfying because it was an accidental outcome of something that was purely functional to start with. My pa once said to me (we were debating whether what he did was art - he resisted this notion) 'all I ever do is try to capture as much of what's going on as possible within the frame' - sometimes I think, well that's what art should do! Not necessarily claiming I managed to do that here, but it's my guiding motto.

CCBDau_d59under.jpg



Please share 1 technique you use in a step by step how-to.
This is minimal and not so much a technical technique but a technique of approach.
Photography for me is about weight and space and movement - I think about: the way the object(s) 'hang' in the frame, where is the movement, and is there enough space for those things to be in 'balance'.

Choose a few of your favourite photos and share them.
I don't have many canna shots yet that I think are great photos - its a developing skill. BUt I'm going to share a few because I like the way they teach me something, or expose something. My camera has ISO settings that I can change (this emulates film speed). I was photographing late one evening, looking for pistils (the macro is useful for this) and I took this using the ISO80 setting because is was nearly dark...

Twilight-ISO80.jpg


And then the next morning I went out in the morning sun and took some more, except I forgot to change the setting - so his is hat ISO80 looks like in full sunlight!


wrongISO_.jpg


These 2 I love because the comparison tells me it's worth it to use the flash sometimes on an overcast day in the forest (especially for closeups)

PC1_tip-noflash.jpg


PC1_tip-withflash.jpg


This one I love because it was the first plant I grew - back in 2013

happiness-macrolens.jpg


And I don't know if i'm bending the premise of the thread too far by posting a non-canna photo, but it's from my journal (where I have a critter that I see around the garden accompany every update) and I just love this one... as a photo (and as a dragon)

watedragon-close2front.jpg


And I better share this one - cause Urban really liked it (all about staging for the nug).

PC1100021.jpg


Talk about a piece of your equipment you can't live without.
My glasses! Lol Without them I can't tell if the auto focus is grabbing what I want it to or not.
And soon - the single leg tripod I'm ordering after reading that tip from earlier in this thread (thanks you to whoever posted that!), I've not used a tripod (since the early days with my dad) and really want to but was wary about not being able to lug one around - the single spike style might work well

Thanks heaps (again) for the invite Urban - I'm super chuffed you asked me and I can already tell my photo'chops' are going to improve heaps. Maybe even my photoshop chops (I know what unsharp mask does, but I don't know how to use it)!

:volcano-smiley:
:circle-of-love:
 
Wowsers! Isn't this just rollicking along? :bravo:

Glad you posted about ISO jus now Agemon... I had already popped a bit in my bio about it, due to a mistake I made with it recently! I haven't read the last 5 pages yet, will catch up after this!

Username:

Amy Gardner

Grow method and strains:

Really only on my 3rd-4th grow so auditioning chemovars and auditioning methods. Presently, for my first 'taking it seriously' grow, I'm outdoor and aiming for some middle ground between the mineralised soil approach of high-brix gardening and living organic. Current chemovars are Professor Chaos (TGASubcool/Homegrown Natural Wonders), CBD Critical Cure (Barney's Farm), Money Bush (Afghani x Critical Mass - Heavyweight). Have just put a 'solstice round' of seeds in (on Xmas eve): 2 from a mate that he thinks is Golden Tiger x Northern lights, and 1 Ice (Female seeds freebie) - experimenting with training these along the ground and/or up a wall. I'll do another winter grow box experiment in a few months

Camera, Lenses and Gear:

I use an Olympus SP500UZ which I bought new in 2006. As a point and shoot it was a step up from most at the time and it still takes a good pic for me. My only beef over the years has been that I've not really been able tot get prints at any decent size and maintain the digital sharpness because of the low megapixels (6MP - which was awesome at the time for a non DSLR). I underestimated how much I was going to like my own photos!

I also use my iPhone SE sometimes - it's a great camera.

I have a GoPro Hero3 that I'm learning how to use.

Experience level and photography background:

Amatuer hobbyist. Background as a performance and sound artist (nightclubs, circus, physical theatre) and DJ/producer and always loved taking photos. More recently i've Studied philosophy. ONe way pr another they're all about framing, whether the frame I sonic, visual, spatial or how you frame a thought... My father was a professional photographer - flora, landscapes, wilderness - and I accompanied him on many a feild trip, carrying the bag of lenses and the special homemade light reflector that we'd make, or touch up before we left. It was my job to hold it just right to get the sunlight hitting a flower (or whatever plant - but sooo many flowers ;)) while he took the shots (and directed me a little). So I learned about light, and faking it, from an early age. I studied photography in my last year of high school too and loved it (we made pinhole cameras from scratch out of cardboard - that was awesome). All of that was pre digital, so I've kind of known about fStop and shutter speed relationships and composition as if I grew up with it, but only at a basic level. I've spent many years without a camera at all so haven't done a lot of photography until recent years (the last 15 - when you're nearly 50, that's recent years ;)) I am self taught in photoshop but not done a lot with my own photogaphy (mostly CD cover art and posters etc) but I did recently colour correct some blur pleas using the PS white balance adjustment - but I used white, not grey.

What is your style? (portrait, journal, macro, outdoor, instructional, various)
Textural, portraits of nature. Sometimes it's narrative and sometimes it's just all about a single moment in time.

Favourite lens or type of shot:
Ooh too many - I love macros, but also huge wide angle landscapes. Seeing as I don't have any lenses or the capacity to change them, it matters little.

If you could give 1 tip for new photographers:
Let it have the gift of your time.
(And I echo here the others' notes about cropping and deleting - take lots, delete almost as many and crop when needed... hence the gift of time)

Other introductory options:

Please share 1 of you favourite photos and explain why it works so well for you. What equipment did you use?
Under skirt?
I love this because I couldn't see at all what I was doing, I just wanted to get a look at the trich production under the canopy of a very small auto. I used flash to kill the blurple (or bplink!) as much as possible and just stuck my hand with camera down there, took aim and hoped the auto focus would get it right - and it did. It was then cropped. So the photographic success is satisfying because it was an accidental outcome of something that was purely functional to start with. My pa once said to me (we were debating whether what he did was art - he resisted this notion) 'all I ever do is try to capture as much of what's going on as possible within the frame' - sometimes I think, well that's what art should do! Not necessarily claiming I managed to do that here, but it's my guiding motto.

CCBDau_d59under.jpg



Please share 1 technique you use in a step by step how-to.
This is minimal and not so much a technical technique but a technique of approach.
Photography for me is about weight and space and movement - I think about: the way the object(s) 'hang' in the frame, where is the movement, and is there enough space for those things to be in 'balance'.

Choose a few of your favourite photos and share them.
I don't have many canna shots yet that I think are great photos - its a developing skill. BUt I'm going to share a few because I like the way they teach me something, or expose something. My camera has ISO settings that I can change (this emulates film speed). I was photographing late one evening, looking for pistils (the macro is useful for this) and I took this using the ISO80 setting because is was nearly dark...

Twilight-ISO80.jpg


And then the next morning I went out in the morning sun and took some more, except I forgot to change the setting - so his is hat ISO80 looks like in full sunlight!


wrongISO_.jpg


These 2 I love because the comparison tells me it's worth it to use the flash sometimes on an overcast day in the forest (especially for closeups)

PC1_tip-noflash.jpg


PC1_tip-withflash.jpg


This one I love because it was the first plant I grew - back in 2013

happiness-macrolens.jpg


And I don't know if i'm bending the premise of the thread too far by posting a non-canna photo, but it's from my journal (where a have a critter that I see around the garden accompany every update) and I just love this one... as a photo (and as a dragon)

watedragon-close2front.jpg


And I better share this one - cause Urban really liked it (all about staging for the nug).

PC1100021.jpg


Talk about a piece of your equipment you can't live without.
My glasses! Lol Without them I can't tell if the auto focus is grabbing what I want it to or not.
And soon - the single leg tripod I'm ordering after reading that tip from earlier in this thread (thanks you to whoever posted that!), I've not used a tripod (since the early days with my dad) and really want to but was wary about not being able to lug one around - the single spike style might work well

Thanks heaps (again) for the invite Urban - I'm super chuffed you asked me and I can already tell my photo'chops' are going to improve heaps. Maybe even my photoshop chops (I know what unsharp mask does, but I don't know how to use it)!

:volcano-smiley:
:circle-of-love:

Wow, great introduction, and thank you for posting that nug shot! I love love love that shot. Sounds like you have an excellent background and a wonderful father daughter experience to remember. Light is everything.

Lots of good tips in there, so glad you dropped in and gave us that introduction, you certainly will be a valuable addition to the knowledge base here.

Yay!
 
thats a cool pic hook i posted an off topic pic today its in my gallery I'm not sure what your problem is i upload pics into the gallery and then they are available for posting?

...Methinks' me got it...

...
P1050721_1_.JPG
...

...poor lil' bugger washed up on the shore today...not sure what happened to outer shell...natural or humanized!??...

...
P10607481.JPG
...

...
P10607471.JPG
...

...Mi Casa for the next couple months...second floor...far left...turquoise umbrella ...

...
P10607532.JPG


...cheerz...h00k...:Hookah:
 
If you upload photo's that is not cannsbis related, you have to upload them to the off-topic photos category. Then they will not be embedded with the 420 logo. 420 wants us to do that because they only want their logo on cannabis photos
 
A solar powered greenhouse huh. I am going to have to swing by your journal....you aren't too far up the road from me (Massachusetts) and would love to learn what you did for your greenhouse.

I have a lot of experience with good/bad greenhouse ideas! Nothing like trial by fire. I am currently thumbing my nose at Mother Nature currently and growing in an insulated box within the insulated greenhouse. PM me or ask your questions on my journal so others can glean from it in the future.
 
If you upload photo's that is not cannsbis related, you have to upload them to the off-topic photos category. Then they will not be embedded with the 420 logo. 420 wants us to do that because they only want their logo on cannabis photos

Oooopsie then. I missed that part of the guidelines. Is that option selectable under the category drop down? I don't remember seeing it before. Thanks DeVille And I hope the recovery is coming along for you sir .
 
The answer is Grainy, we were looking for, "What is Grainy." Urb you have the board...

Yeah I answered it yesterday, mentioning you were hoping for the new folks to answer, but then didnt submit it. Just waited.

The basic idea, for you newer folks, is to shoot your photos with a low ISO. 50, 80, 100, 200. This will give you a good crisp image and a lot of detail. This requires a good light source. Luckily we have small suns in our homes lol.

If you have to, you can increase the ISO the 400, 500, or 800 without causing too much grainyness or noise. There are a lot of reasons why you would need a high ISO (1600/3200) but we can talk about that at another time.

I am trying to motivate myself to drop a knowledge bomb for the Stanks and Swagg. Maybe in the next hour or so before work.
 
Yeah I answered it yesterday, mentioning you were hoping for the new folks to answer, but then didnt submit it. Just waited.

The basic idea, for you newer folks, is to shoot your photos with a low ISO. 50, 80, 100, 200. This will give you a good crisp image. This required good light. Luckily we have small suns in our homes lol.

If you have to, you can increase the ISO the 400, 500, or 800 without causing too much grainyness or noise. There are a lot of reasons why you would need a high ISO (1600/3200) but we can talk about that at another time.

I am trying to motivate myself to drop a knowledge bomb for the Stanks and Swagg. Maybe in the next hour or so before work.

Knowledge Bomb... That's funny! I'm trying to keep things light and fun, create some conversations about things. I like sharing my knowledge, I hope we get some participation and new learners checking it out.

We're all cool, we all grow weed!!!!!

Looking forward to discussing your bomb making techniques, maybe I'll make one of my own too; you first.
 
I think its great that we have a mix of skilled folks who want to share and approach this sharing from different perspectives. We all absorb information or learn differently. I like the idea of you challenging folks to figure out these key photography concepts. I would keep doing it.

I have an idea to have weekly photo challenges. To motivate, inspire, challenge ourselves, and to create discussion. The first one will be very soon. Like after this post lol.

As for the knowledge bomb, well its more of a tip, and typically found in the owners manual. This is for VS and Swaggnificent. The purpose of this tip is to help them get to know their new powerful DSLRs. In an easy way but one that exposes them to what we are discussing in general.

Priority Modes. I am going to pick one and discuss how to set it up and use it. I would ask other experienced folks to pick one of the other priority modes and give a breakdown if that interests you.

Ok, so priority modes eh, it is exactly like it sounds. A mode in the camera that lets you pick what the priority is and then automatically adjusts all the other important settings. For this post we will cover Aperture priority.

In a Canon, and I think most cameras now, this setting can be found on the selection dial and usually an “A”. Here is a photo showing the camera is now set to Aperture Priority mode. This is useful when you want to focus on the depth of an image. For example nug photos, where you want the nug to be the centre of attention, and the background to be blurred out. You could use the aperture priority mode and choose the lowest aperture setting.

The opposite is also useful, taking a photo of a nice cola, and you want the other colas to be in focus. You would use a higher aperture setting to bring that background into focus.
AEBA8F4C-326A-411E-9DC3-18C71FB1FE41.jpeg




With the AP setting you can only control the depth of field. The camera will control the shutter speed based on the depth you want and the ISO you have set. Practicing this mode will help you understand the relationship between light, shutter speed, and fstop. Without having to make each adjustment as you would in manual mode. It will also help you get to understand how to control the depth of the image. Its like painting by numbers.

When looking through the viewfinder, half press the shutter release button and it autofocuses, it also shows you the current aperture setting. Using your right index finger to control the dial, you can alter this aperture setting while its highlighted, allowing you to make adjustments on the fly.
D925472C-4BFE-424A-BF82-1F1B173E20C7.jpeg






CB74AC9E-4EC1-4005-BC2F-E783729767BC.jpeg






3425E993-5533-4C64-B888-0B204540DEF5.jpeg




I hope this helps get you started. There are a number of other priority modes too but this is one I thought you could experiment with right away and have success. Good luck!

Oh here are two of my photos. One with shallow depth of field and one with a larger depth of field. Keep in mind the distance between you, your subject, and the background will change the result. So practice this to get a good feel of whats going on.

I wanted this to be the focus. A shallow depth of field blurred out the background. Useful if you take photos in cluttered areas or dont want the poster of you at work on the wall to be in focus. My macro lens is so good at this I have to be careful to not make part of my subject blurry. A few of the leaf tips are starting to get blurred but. Still a decent shot.
BD5_IMG_8341_cropped.JPG


This is a little effort I made a few weeks back. Nobody noticed the subtle nod I gave to ACDC. That is a fabric Highway to Hell flag/poster in the background. I blurred the background enough for the focus to remain on the nugs but enough to notice the faces if you wanted. A few little other notes about this shot. The buds were position with two “balls” on either side of the main bud. A nod to that tune. The buds are sitting in a 2 ounce liquid measuring device that is sitting on a pink box of scotch, barely reflecting off the metal, a little sink the pink nod. This was all just for fun and my amusement. The options are endless. Had I used the same aperture setting on this photo as I did the first photo you would not see anything but blurred colour.
Green_Crack_IMG_8503_cropped.JPG






I hope this helps someone.
 
:woohoo:Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 2.8D Macro Lens, hope it's in good shape, off ebay, apprehensive purchase.:Namaste:

Love getting new gear, exciting, I hope it works out for you. When it comes to lenses you get what you pay for so hopefully you are happy with the result. Looking forward to seeing what it produces!
 
Of course Urb takes the fun one! Although, I've got some ideas for covering shutter speed, I don't wanna step on your toes so I'll wait a day or so and throw together a nice tutorial with blurry pictures.
 
:woohoo:Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 2.8D Macro Lens, hope it's in good shape, off ebay, apprehensive purchase.:Namaste:

I order all my used stuff from the manufacturer. It might cost a little more than an ebay refurbished, but I know that (in my case) Canon has rebuilt the lens, etc. to their specs and I get a better warranty too. Not sure about the warranty. I got my Macro refurbed from them for $550 or so. I've had it for at least 2-3 years and it works great in every situation. Although these days I primarily use it for my bud shots.
 
I.S.O. ,,, international standards organization

ya know,, this i.s.o. thing has been a thorn in my side ever since i got my first digital camera. this setting really should be called something else,, like , i dunno, the 'quality degradation' button or similar

please allow me to explain, as briefly as i can,, this from memory so a fact or twelve might not hold up,,

back in the early days of photography, film photography, which some might be surprised how long ago those days are,,

when film was the only medium for photography, this standards organization set the world wide standards for the size of silver particles in the film, so every one was getting along that way.

so that is how film works,, these silver particles get exposed to light and change from black to white in a controlled manner, focused image, opening shutter etc

the only way to make film record light more was to make the silver particles bigger, so they would attract more light

so standards were set, for silver size in film.. I.S.O. 50, 100, 200, 400, etc. i think these numbers even relate to actual physical particle size, in microns,, possible error there

all of the silver particles in a i.s.o. 50 film were 50 microns, etc

so, the camera need to know which i.s.o film one was putting into their camera, for settings purposes, so the settings stayed in sync

so the camera had the different settings for different i.s.o film,

actual physical film silver granual sizes

:snooze::trance::scratchinghead:

now jump ahead to the digital age,,

no film at all,

so no silver particle differences

but still an I.S.O. setting,,, hmmmmm, are we being manipulated here??? frikin big brother,, ha

anyway,, i.s.o now days is simply an image degradation button, and is only a tool to use when light is low, tho one should be using a tripod when light is low

keep the i.s.o. at it's lowest setting, and leave it there, if one is the least bit serious. one should feel guilty every single time one uses it.

i will point out the absolutely legitimate creative purposes of the i.s.o. setting as well. nuff said about that right there

i maybe should have been much more elegant in my explanation but i have this thorn in my side, and it bloody hurts,,

:volcano-smiley:
 
This is all great - because after my post yesterday I found myself doing a bit of head scratching thinking that what I thought about ISO (or ASA as I learned it) was not quite right. Or, I learned something basic about it and have surmised incorrect things based on that. I always find that I often learn best when Ive got something incorrect so I'm thinking this might be one of those times...

I have carried the 'knowledge' that when shooting in low light you use a slow 'film'. I say 'knowledge' because it's just what I picked up from being around photography, I don't remember learning that exactly. SO, for example in candle light you'd choose a slow film (ISO80) and have as long an exposure as possible - so with a tripod you could have a really long exposure, a low fStop, and get a great shot with sharp detail if you're subject is stationary. SO I'd translated that in my head to thinking that lower ISO was more light sensitive and that's clearly incorrect. I can see now that my daylight ISO80 shot was likely blown out with sun haze because the shutter speed was really slow as well so just too much light.

But anyway - I'm still head scratching about it a bit. You now what its like when something's just been a certain way in your head for a long time and then you suddenly get evidence to shift it significantly...

So clearly this is all about using the relationship between fstop (aperture), shutter speed and ISO to get the best out of the lighting and circumstance.

Let me throw out some other basic concepts I think I have and see if they're misguided or not:

The higher the fStop number, the smaller the aperture of the lens (*so I think of this like our pupil, less light in the room - more dilation). FOr depth of field you want the smallest aperture and the longest exposure you can achieve so you set the fstop as high you can while still being able to have slow shutter speed. (My camera helps me here in manual mode, when I change the fstop, it renders the shutter speed in the info display red until I reach an fstop the camera reads as effective and the shutter speed display turns green - I always ty to get the longest shutter speed possible within the bounds of my ability to hold the camera still, or the still nes of my subject/object) **And to be clear here - this is what I think I know about it - and I may be wrong, i am putting it forward here in fact because I think It might indeed be wrong and I'm wanting someone to correct it!

You use higher ISO in situations where the target is moving, eg for sport.

I'll leave it there for now - I always end up writing more than I want to. I'm trying to temper that, but sometimes details need explaining. And besides, often when I abbreviate my thoughts they end up being easily misconstrued - so I'd rather be a little verbose than misunderstood ;)

I'd love someone to put the relationship between these 3 things into nutshell, if that's possible. ISO (speed of film), fStop (aperture of lens), shutter speed (length of exposure) - how to they relate? How do you achieve the desired balance of them working together?
 
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