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- #181
Tony Urban
Well-Known Member
Something I've noticed a lot of newer photographers do.
Yeah I see this a lot.
The 420 Fotographer Collective: Advanced Cannabis Photography
- Thread starter Tony Urban
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Yeah I see this a lot.
Something I've noticed a lot of newer photographers do.
So you're mostly talking about post production when you mention processing, is that right? Or can that kind of under/over be the result of in-camera settings as well?
I'll have to check my manual, but when I hit ok just before, to test, it took a photo - of the black inside of the lens cover!! So that part might depend on the camera. I just pretty stoked I know what that icon means now!
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hehehe...this thread has me thinking...way back...55 years(maybe 56 or 57)...my first camera... an oblong black Kodak box camera...black and white...no flash...then flash bulbs, flash cubes(4 in 1) disc cameras, 35 mil...which was probably the greatest era...the lens choices...different film speeds...containers to store herb and seeds in...not to mention the little covers you could buy to convert them to salt and pepper shakers for camping!!...
...those were the days...lolool...I'm not adverse to technology...just wish it didn't move so damn fast...hell I can still translate jungle drums......loving this thread and some great contributions thus far...cheerz...h00k...
...those were the days...lolool...I'm not adverse to technology...just wish it didn't move so damn fast...hell I can still translate jungle drums......loving this thread and some great contributions thus far...cheerz...h00k...
ilikemsticky
Well-Known Member
use to love those film containers for my stash lol!hehehe...this thread has me thinking...way back...55 years(maybe 56 or 57)...my first camera... an oblong black Kodak box camera...black and white...no flash...then flash bulbs, flash cubes(4 in 1) disc cameras, 35 mil...which was probably the greatest era...the lens choices...different film speeds...containers to store herb and seeds in...not to mention the little covers you could buy to convert them to salt and pepper shakers for camping!!...
and this is the kinda quality i'm talkin about
I can't tell you how happy I am to have you in this group. I feel like I'm sitting at your feet, completely enrapt.
I love the way you write nivek. 
I'm learning so much here. You guys will have me looking for a camera before the year is up. Lol!
Skullman420
Well-Known Member
Thanks for going through ISO. We also have two other elements a photographer should learn to control on a camera. Aparture and shutter speed. Aparture decides the depth - You have maybe seen photo's where only what is in focus is clear and the rest is blurred out? That's done with the aperture. Shutter speed decides how long the shutter will remain open and therefore how much light your camera will let in. Let's say you want to photograph the stars, you don't want a lot of noise so you keep the ISO low. Then the aperture is set to endless - everything is in focus - The remaining element you have to control is how much light to let into your camera. Here you need to find the balance between that and you have to count in the earth's rotation as well - too long shutter speed and your stars will get hmmm. Do you call them follow trails?
Sorry - my first language is not english
Sorry - my first language is not english
Skullman420
Well-Known Member
I shouldn't be so lazy... Should take example photo's to demonstrate aperture and shutter speed. Perhaps later. It's very very early in the morning here and I need coffee
Skullman420
Well-Known Member
If there is any interest in how to shoot film with DSLR or as we call it VDSLR, I could probably give you a bunch of info. When you film the shutter speed is locked - at least if you don't want unnatural motion blur or flickering and shit like that. The rule is the aperture needs to be the double of the frame rate. So for 24 images per second (film) you would want your shutter to be locked at 48. That leaves you with only ISO and aperture to play with. But damn - you can shoot amazing film with your DSLR. Several pro movie makers have embraced this format for shooting their films. The film gets just as beautiful as the photo's your camera can do so it's easy to understand why the movie industry embraced these tools. They're also quite cheaper than investing in pro video gear
I think you may be referring to Over Exposure and Under Exposure. That can produce similar types of effects, but I was specifically referring to Post Production.
Although some cameras offer the ability to enhance saturation and other types of settings as well. I prefer to do my post work on clean images with as little image manipulation from the camera as possible. It's really a preference when it comes to camera settings however there are some basics to keep in mind, I've always been a fan of bracketing, sometimes the 'perfect' exposure is anything but.
I used what's called a color checker when I did still life stuff in the past. The white is pure white, so once I got it into the computer I could use the curves feature in photoshop to set the white point and BOOM instant color correction. Brightness, Contrast, Crop, adjust saturation, use the band aid to fix a few blems and that's it.
It's an Epiphone... all my money is wrapped up in my kids!
It's an Epiphone... all my money is wrapped up in my kids!
- Thread starter
- #193
Tony Urban
Well-Known Member
Not sure if you saw it but I talked a bit about Aperture Priority and have a few examples in a post earlier today. Although I was a bit lazy finding extreme examples. So perhaps you could quote my post and add your thoughts and images?
- Thread starter
- #194
Tony Urban
Well-Known Member
I can't tell you how happy I am to have you in this group. I feel like I'm sitting at your feet, completely enrapt.
I'm learning so much here. You guys will have me looking for a camera before the year is up. Lol!
It is so nice to hear you say that, or read it lol, because I didn't want to drag you here for nothing. You are a busy woman and in demand in a few journals lol. Happy you are picking a few things up!
It's an addicting hobby, much like growing, and they go together quite well.
Scrogdawg
Well-Known Member
Sometimes you need a lot of post processing to get the desired effects.
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Sometimes you just need a little.
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And every once in a while a gem just falls right out of the camera.
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Sometimes you just need a little.
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And every once in a while a gem just falls right out of the camera.
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Shutter Speed (I'm simply expanding on what has already been said.)
Shutter Speed is how fast the camera captures light. The slowest recommended shutter speed for hand holding a camera is 1/60 of a second. I was able to do 1/15 of a second when I was younger but now I struggle with slower shutter speeds and hand holding. Just not ready to accept that by the way... Anyhow, back to shutter speed. The reason a 60th of a second is the slowest you want to hand hold is because you can induce camera shake which we all call blur. This is where ISO could come into play depending on your needs and the situation in which you're shooting.
There are several examples of how shutter speed controls blur and that's really what I want to focus on here. You see what I did there? I digress...
1. Here is an example of capturing movement of a stationary object. I know right...
ISO 100 ~ f4.0 ~ 30 seconds
2. Capturing Movement of moving objects.
ISO 100 ~ f7.1 ~ 10 seconds
ISO 100 ~ f8.0 ~ 10 Seconds
And finally me and an aspiring photographer painting with light.
ISO 100 ~ f4.0 ~ 30 Seconds
ISO 100 ~ f4.5 ~ 15 seconds
Now that I've shown you how to creatively use shutter speed I will give you a bracketing exercise so you can see for yourself how the shutter controls the amount of light, using time as the control factor. Not to be confused with aperture, this is the scientific part of the art form (again I digress, sorry).
Alright, this is a very simple exercise but shows you exactly how shutter speed and over or under exposing your pictures may be a good idea. The exercise is called bracketing. You start the exercise by putting your camera on a tripod and choosing some nice, fat, big, stinky, sticky, crystally colas to photograph. Put your camera into Manual Mode, make sure your ISO is set to 100 and your aperture to f8.0, I always use autofocus, and I don't care if it's cheating. My vision was at one time 20/15 but those days are behind me . Now go smoke a bowl, well maybe wait until after you're done with this part.
OK! Set your camera to manual and compose your picture. Get your composition all set and once you're happy with the composition look at your light meter. Did you put your camera in Manual Mode yet? Adjust your shutter speed until the light meter reads -1. That's one stop underexposed, take a picture. Next adjust the shutter speed one stop, look at your light meter, and your arrow should be just at the 0 in your light meter. This is the ideal exposure, take a picture. Now adjust your shutter speed up one more time and the light meter should read +1. This is one stop over exposed, take a picture.
Now go to your computer and check out the results. I know this is simplistic but it really does have a place and by simply shooting using bracketing you'll see how different situations even if it's just the angle into your tent or the composition is a tight close up, sometimes the ideal exposure is not so ideal.
Play with your cameras and try the 4 manual settings to see how they work and how you can use them.
I recommend bracketing only be done in Manual Mode.
Shutter Speed is how fast the camera captures light. The slowest recommended shutter speed for hand holding a camera is 1/60 of a second. I was able to do 1/15 of a second when I was younger but now I struggle with slower shutter speeds and hand holding. Just not ready to accept that by the way... Anyhow, back to shutter speed. The reason a 60th of a second is the slowest you want to hand hold is because you can induce camera shake which we all call blur. This is where ISO could come into play depending on your needs and the situation in which you're shooting.
There are several examples of how shutter speed controls blur and that's really what I want to focus on here. You see what I did there? I digress...
1. Here is an example of capturing movement of a stationary object. I know right...
ISO 100 ~ f4.0 ~ 30 seconds
2. Capturing Movement of moving objects.
ISO 100 ~ f7.1 ~ 10 seconds
ISO 100 ~ f8.0 ~ 10 Seconds
And finally me and an aspiring photographer painting with light.
ISO 100 ~ f4.0 ~ 30 Seconds
ISO 100 ~ f4.5 ~ 15 seconds
Now that I've shown you how to creatively use shutter speed I will give you a bracketing exercise so you can see for yourself how the shutter controls the amount of light, using time as the control factor. Not to be confused with aperture, this is the scientific part of the art form (again I digress, sorry).
Alright, this is a very simple exercise but shows you exactly how shutter speed and over or under exposing your pictures may be a good idea. The exercise is called bracketing. You start the exercise by putting your camera on a tripod and choosing some nice, fat, big, stinky, sticky, crystally colas to photograph. Put your camera into Manual Mode, make sure your ISO is set to 100 and your aperture to f8.0, I always use autofocus, and I don't care if it's cheating. My vision was at one time 20/15 but those days are behind me . Now go smoke a bowl, well maybe wait until after you're done with this part.
OK! Set your camera to manual and compose your picture. Get your composition all set and once you're happy with the composition look at your light meter. Did you put your camera in Manual Mode yet? Adjust your shutter speed until the light meter reads -1. That's one stop underexposed, take a picture. Next adjust the shutter speed one stop, look at your light meter, and your arrow should be just at the 0 in your light meter. This is the ideal exposure, take a picture. Now adjust your shutter speed up one more time and the light meter should read +1. This is one stop over exposed, take a picture.
Now go to your computer and check out the results. I know this is simplistic but it really does have a place and by simply shooting using bracketing you'll see how different situations even if it's just the angle into your tent or the composition is a tight close up, sometimes the ideal exposure is not so ideal.
Play with your cameras and try the 4 manual settings to see how they work and how you can use them.
I recommend bracketing only be done in Manual Mode.
Stunners!!!!
Scrogdawg
Well-Known Member
Very good explanation of bracketing. I could be wrong but I thought some of the Canon bodies had a bracketing feature on them, that when set they would take 3 captures at a time. Could just be the Strawberry Kush talking too...lol.
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- #199
Tony Urban
Well-Known Member
Some stunning photos Scrogdog and Agemon. Also a great tutorial and discussion on bracketing! Well done.
When getting the shot is important in one effort, bracketing will help, as you get the same photo with 3 different amounts of light.
One other tip regarding shutter speed I want to add. When shooting hand held, you want your shutter speed to be double the focal length you are using on your lens. So if you are using a 100mm lens, you want the shutter speed to be at least 200, and this will help prevent hand held camera shake. That's in half decent light.
I gotta say, I love how things are developing here (just for you Agemon lol), and look forward to checking this thread often.
When getting the shot is important in one effort, bracketing will help, as you get the same photo with 3 different amounts of light.
One other tip regarding shutter speed I want to add. When shooting hand held, you want your shutter speed to be double the focal length you are using on your lens. So if you are using a 100mm lens, you want the shutter speed to be at least 200, and this will help prevent hand held camera shake. That's in half decent light.
I gotta say, I love how things are developing here (just for you Agemon lol), and look forward to checking this thread often.
Scrogdawg
Well-Known Member
The discussion earlier dealt with ISO. I have shot a ton of indoor sporting events where I need a minimum of 1/1250 shutter speed and preferred 1/1600 or higher to stop motion. When indoors with generally less than adequate lighting, fast shutter speeds are very hard to achieve. Higher ISO settings in those instances saved my ass more than once. These captures were taken in a poorly lit rink at 1/1250 sec. with ISO set to 1000.
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