Stanks Go Perpetual In 2018!

Doesn't calcium tend to look more like rust spots? These look more like necrotic spots to me.


Well, I would steer away from calcium just for the fact that calcium deficiency usually has redish/yellow rust-like spots, whereas these are brown/necrotic spots. Manganese will do that in onset of defeciency.

Toxicities are a little harder to track, but one thing to consider is that toxicity doesn't necessarily need to occur before lockout will from high NPK levels. So for example, you could be in excess on some element that's causing a manganese lockout.

This is in your stank soil right? Any idea what your pH is? It might be helpful to know because if it's in a range where one element is more absorbed than the other, that makes it easier to troubleshoot toxicity.

Kinda gives me pause you adding Cal-Mag to your soil. Everything I've heard ( from people with no authority who are probably full of it) is that synthetic nutrients will kill your microherd. You might give it the calcium fix it needs, but nuke your soil life :/

But again I don't know how much truth that holds. What do you have for Cal-Mag?

The spots are reddish brown. I have literally spent hours looking at deficiency issues and I can't pinpoint what it is, but I stand by my initial take that its one of those three things, and likely not the toxicity. One interesting thing I read on 420 was that calcium issues can cause potassium issues. Very well could be a combo.

No clue what the pH is at this junction. I checked it after the initial cooking and it was 6.6.

The Cal Mag I have is supposedly usable in LOS. I used it with no issues in the previous grow.
 
Interested in what it is. I had a similar issue in veg on my last grow when i was using ro water as a base. When i switched to tap i never saw the problem again. I was using a fair amount of cal mag. It was a deficiency but i don't know exactly what it was.
I use tap water that I air out for at least 48 hours before using (dechlorinate). I have no desire at all to use RO.
 
So my plan of action to deal with this deficiency is to use just water with some Cal Mag and some Silica and little liquid Kelp.

I figure do that once and observe the leaves and watch the spots. If it seems like it persists, well then we will deal with that when it happens. I have a feeling this will get me back on track. Hope that they get those blogs transitioned over so I can look back at my soil recipe and see what sort of adjustments I might make.
 
I use tap water that I air out for at least 48 hours before using (dechlorinate). I have no desire at all to use RO.

That is what I do now. I agitate it with a little aquarium pump while it sits and leave the pump in when Imix my nutes in.

Hopefully you will get it straightened out. This is why I chose to grow in coco to start. I know a lot of newbies go straight to soil thinking it's easier but I don't think that it is. Especially when someone of your experience level is having to deal with some adjustments.
 
My water is 7.0+ and 320ppm

It sucks, tastes like ass, so I gotta do RO water
No clue what my tap water PPM is.....but I know the pH out of the tap is between 9.0 and 9.3. But if I let it sit in a 5 gallon bucket for 48 hours the pH drops down to about 7.5.
 
That is what I do now. I agitate it with a little aquarium pump while it sits and leave the pump in when Imix my nutes in.

Hopefully you will get it straightened out. This is why I chose to grow in coco to start. I know a lot of newbies go straight to soil thinking it's easier but I don't think that it is. Especially when someone of your experience level is having to deal with some adjustments.

Yeah, but I kind of predicted this at the beginning. I knew that a top level LED was going to test the soil. I am getting much faster growth this grow so it all makes sense to me. I just want to get it ironed out so I can figure out what adjustments I make for future batches of soil. I really wish I could remember for sure if the Stankberrys got planted into the soil that I amended with additional gypsum and minerals. I don't think it was.....so I am apprehensive in making any adjustments without knowing for sure if the adjustments I made are included.

I know for sure that Northern Lights and the last transplant of the Blue Dream are in soil that include the initial adjustments. So I think I will continue to just treat it in the individual plants that show any signs (while trying to narrow down for sure what the deficiency is) and I will monitor all future plants for signs. If future plants show any signs, I can make adjustments based off what I learn treating these.

I am in it for the long haul with my soil....especially once I get the vermi-composting rolling here pretty soon.
 
Harlequin Male Update Flower Day 14

We checked on Ms Stanks other stud last night and saw signs of the first action of the grow. We found signs of a burst pollen sack on her guy. Action is going to pick up real soon and the Stank's bukkake boy will be getting harvested (@Chris Scorpio don't get jealous...we all know you love playing with the guys).

He is looking great....completely healthy. No signs of any of the deficiencies I saw in the other strains. Lots and lots of sacks on this dude. We are going to have a shit ton of pollen in a week or two!




 
Why is everyone against RO? I also spent some change ($250) on one and see a lot of people not care for it. If I didn't use it I would be on well water which I don't think is too bad..should I avoid the RO? Wish I could help solve your problem Van but I'm clueless as always lol!
 
Van......a little behind but those leaf spots are likely Ca related. Possibly Ammonium burn but those are usually larger & on young plants. If you have ample Ca in soil then consider a nutrient antagonism....excess N, K, Mg & Na are antagonistic to Ca....even with ample Ca present. Suggest adding more Ca from source independent of Mg...not Calmag. For something fast consider Kelzyme Element XX in the micronized version. There is NO such thing as Ca toxicity....only bad thing that can come of too much Ca is it causing its own antagonisms to other elements & likely upped soil pH. Those spots in mature leaves will not go away but keep your eye on newer growth after some Ca treatment. :Namaste:
 
Why is everyone against RO? I also spent some change ($250) on one and see a lot of people not care for it. If I didn't use it I would be on well water which I don't think is too bad..should I avoid the RO? Wish I could help solve your problem Van but I'm clueless as always lol!

The two issues I have with RO are the weird deficiency that I had with it and the PH. My RO water dips down in the high 4's so I have to adjust the PH up all the time. To be fair I have not tried it with the perfect PH coco nutes. I think the local water also has a lot of calcium in it. The RO units strips all that.

The other issue is just cost. I get about 1 gallon of pure water to 4 of runoff so that impacts my water/sewer bill. ;)
 
Why is everyone against RO? I also spent some change ($250) on one and see a lot of people not care for it. If I didn't use it I would be on well water which I don't think is too bad..should I avoid the RO? Wish I could help solve your problem Van but I'm clueless as always lol!
My biggest issue with ROs is the fact it generally takes 4 gallons of water to make one gallon of RO water. Not to mention I don't use nutes so I don't really know or care what my PPM is. Perhaps if I grew in hydro I might care but I don't know that the 4 gallons for 1 gallon would be worth it. But just because I don't find it worth it doesn't mean its a bad thing....its just not for me.
 
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