alex801
New Member
I look forward to hearing ur ideas also spimp
Spimps NLxBB Auto Micro CFL's 2013
- Thread starter Spimp
- Start date
What Alex said 
- Thread starter
- #143
ok. My Fish enchaladas are baking for about 20 mins so I thought Id share something I did today:
Some people have been asking about transplanting, and I just happen to be doing some moving earlier.
This is just the way I do it. I actually like to warm the transplant soil up in te sun first for some warmth :
SPIMPS SOIL TRANSPLANT METHOD::
Supplies-1)Plant 2)bigger pot 3)soil mix 4) Sprayer with PH'd water* optional
Shake and/or scoop out the excess soil thats is dry enough to scoop. It there is alot, then spray the plants soil and compact it very gently..
Put some soil in the pot. Spay it if it isnt damp.
Try to center the old pot into the big pot. Put her where you want her to be. Then backfill around the pot with the new soil.
Remove the pot and Eureka! A new home.
Cup your hand around her. Imagine you are using as much contact as possible with the soil forming a dome around her:
Turn upside down and wiggle the girl free while slowly letting the gravity of the soil sit in your cupped hand. Remov small pot from her by sliding it up off the root ball. Not bad for a tiny gal.
Put her in her new home. I use BOTH HANDS. and be gentle:
If shes siting too high, fill in with some extra soil. Im good with were mine is:
Some people have been asking about transplanting, and I just happen to be doing some moving earlier.
This is just the way I do it. I actually like to warm the transplant soil up in te sun first for some warmth :SPIMPS SOIL TRANSPLANT METHOD::
Supplies-1)Plant 2)bigger pot 3)soil mix 4) Sprayer with PH'd water* optional
Shake and/or scoop out the excess soil thats is dry enough to scoop. It there is alot, then spray the plants soil and compact it very gently..
Put some soil in the pot. Spay it if it isnt damp.
Try to center the old pot into the big pot. Put her where you want her to be. Then backfill around the pot with the new soil.
Remove the pot and Eureka! A new home.
Cup your hand around her. Imagine you are using as much contact as possible with the soil forming a dome around her:
Turn upside down and wiggle the girl free while slowly letting the gravity of the soil sit in your cupped hand. Remov small pot from her by sliding it up off the root ball. Not bad for a tiny gal.
Put her in her new home. I use BOTH HANDS. and be gentle:
If shes siting too high, fill in with some extra soil. Im good with were mine is:
@Spimp, im more than happy to talk plants with you my friend, so anytime you like, discuss it here or pm me if you like or talk away in my journal, where ever you want is good for me,
nice transplant my friend, i dont transplant as early as that but as long as you dont damage the roots then it will work with no problems, i let mine get bigger than that so the smaller pot has got plenty of roots in it so it all holds together, but interesting idea, your method would allow you to transplant a lot earlier than i do with mine, plus it would stop the roots growing around the inside of the smaller pot as much,
i have also used the double pot method as well and find that works well but you damage the smaller pot so it cant be used again so not the best method but does work well and stops any transplant shock at all,
but if done right their should be very little transplant shock with either method,
nice transplant my friend, i dont transplant as early as that but as long as you dont damage the roots then it will work with no problems, i let mine get bigger than that so the smaller pot has got plenty of roots in it so it all holds together, but interesting idea, your method would allow you to transplant a lot earlier than i do with mine, plus it would stop the roots growing around the inside of the smaller pot as much,
i have also used the double pot method as well and find that works well but you damage the smaller pot so it cant be used again so not the best method but does work well and stops any transplant shock at all,
but if done right their should be very little transplant shock with either method,
- Thread starter
- #145
*disclaimer* Only opinion folks. So chill before you fire in here guns a blazin'
I have read several ofyour posts regarding CFL's and auto's. I agree the most of your ideas and concepts. The light life theory is a good one, I tend to think this is accurate. I think auto's do need rest for sure.
When I cook in a professional kitchen we need prep time. No Chef is gonna be cutting everything to order. Not effecient at all. If you did that, your energy is split between cooking and preparing. Instead of solely on cooking the already prepared items.
Same with an auto I think. The dark period is when she can focus on using the stored energy at max capacity instead of using 50% or whatever on making more energy. If she is constantly trying to do everything at once with no down time, all she is is fast.
I believe the breeders run these at 24 or 20-4 so they can say 55 day harvest. They all want the fastest turnaround time to advertise.
I do believe under these breeders conditions, 1000's of watts of lights, perfect temp, etc, They can grow impressive plants running 20/4 or better.
But we aint breeders. and I dont think most commrcial growers would spend $1000's to try to do a massive run. Largest test size I have found is 48 plants, several strains with several of each strain. But 48 plants does not fact make.
My bong and my brain have formulated most of this by piecing together bits and pieces and reading alot. :nomo;
On to CFL's
You can grow good weed with CFL's. You can Grow alot of weed with Alot of CFL's. But in a small tent or micro your not gonna grow alot of good weed with CFL's.
Theorically you could with enough watts. But the amount of watts and proximety of the lighting required would be ridiculous.
Any and all high output lights are better for bigger yields.
Having said that im happy with my CFL's. I have a small stealth ghetto rig. Im not gonna ever get the yield outta my box that I want. But Ill get yield. Basically with a plug and play system.
For a guy with limited carpentry skills, and no electrical knowldge (ok, ive read a little on that too) CFL's can be a super easy way to grow. Just dont expect 6oz's off an auto with cfl's.
I hope I shed some ight on my point of view. im kinda stoned so I may have gotten caught up in an irrelavant point or two.
I also have a theory on light spectrum we should discuss some time.
- Thread starter
- #146
Yes I agree. I only did this girl because se's an auto and I want to get the shock out of the way sir. I agree on an actual rootball thus building layers of roots and not wasting pot sil.
Plusreps for the tutorial 
Please tell us your thoughts on Light spectrum
Please tell us your thoughts on Light spectrum
- Thread starter
- #148
I think plants need multiple energies at different times. I dont think its a switch that completly stops one day and only uses a certain spectrum.
The height of the sun affects the color spectrum and as winter approches, a red'er spectrum is the natural lighting. We all can agree the Sun is the ultimate Hi powered light. Its got what plants crave.
If you invision BLUE as grow and RED as bud, I believe a plants life is drawn like a line across a painters pallet. kinda like this:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
The Ideal would be an everchanging spectrum timed off the exact finish time of the plant. So far only the sun has this down pat.
So since I cant recreate that, I use my plug and play Cfl's to try to give them whatever they want when they wantit. Young=more growing light. Older=more budding light.
This is partly because Im trying to give these girls just what mother nature does. Im kinda hooked on growing.
Because of the nature of Commercial gro ops, this is not feasible. It is bettr for them to blast all Grow, then blast all Bud. Their goal is turnaroun and profit. Commercial ops, even setup and ran "easily" and very time intesive. They dont want to buy multiple lights and lighting equipment because the return is already favorable for them with much less hassle. I think eventually there will be lighting that is scheduled, like a setting for how long for veg, than how long for flowering with a spectrum that mimics the suns behavior better now that LED's are getting much better. Until then, the ends does not justify the means for a commercial grower.
But I on the other hand, which to make the best possible smoke and have some extra time to baby a girl.
This is all just random thoughts and ideas Ihave regarding MJ plants. I could be found to be 100% wrong. Im ok with that. I figure the more ideaswe through out there, the better chance a real grower can putthem to the test.
The height of the sun affects the color spectrum and as winter approches, a red'er spectrum is the natural lighting. We all can agree the Sun is the ultimate Hi powered light. Its got what plants crave.
If you invision BLUE as grow and RED as bud, I believe a plants life is drawn like a line across a painters pallet. kinda like this:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
The Ideal would be an everchanging spectrum timed off the exact finish time of the plant. So far only the sun has this down pat.
So since I cant recreate that, I use my plug and play Cfl's to try to give them whatever they want when they wantit. Young=more growing light. Older=more budding light.
This is partly because Im trying to give these girls just what mother nature does. Im kinda hooked on growing.
Because of the nature of Commercial gro ops, this is not feasible. It is bettr for them to blast all Grow, then blast all Bud. Their goal is turnaroun and profit. Commercial ops, even setup and ran "easily" and very time intesive. They dont want to buy multiple lights and lighting equipment because the return is already favorable for them with much less hassle. I think eventually there will be lighting that is scheduled, like a setting for how long for veg, than how long for flowering with a spectrum that mimics the suns behavior better now that LED's are getting much better. Until then, the ends does not justify the means for a commercial grower.
But I on the other hand, which to make the best possible smoke and have some extra time to baby a girl.
This is all just random thoughts and ideas Ihave regarding MJ plants. I could be found to be 100% wrong. Im ok with that. I figure the more ideaswe through out there, the better chance a real grower can putthem to the test.
dont expect much with any auto, under 20-4 i was getting 1/4oz under 12-12 i got 2oz, cfls will produce less so it will be interesting to see what you can get from your auto, im ordering more autos so i can try different strains under different light schedules,
trust me cfls will grow bud and will produce well, their are many journals with huge plants grown under cfls, so it can be done if set up right and the plant is getting as much light as possible, just having light above the plants means you will only have decent buds at the top of the plant, perfect for a scrog, if i went back to cfls then id do a scrog for sure, i think that is the best method for a pure cfl grow,
if scrog is not possible then side lighting is what you need and some form of low stress training, its possible to get good yields, i had a nl x bb that gave me 2oz under cfls with 5 weeks of veg then rest flower, so it is possible but i was using over 300 watt actual watt of cfls,
im pretty sure you will do ok, but dont be disapointed when the auto done do well, dont think its down to the lights your using, its just an auto, it wont yield much. the regular plants will be the best test of your set up, the auto will just be some bud to smoke while you get the other plants done,
what do you want to know about light spectrum
2700k up to about 4000k is ok for flower,
5000k and above is ok for veg,
basically the 2700kelvin cfls are perfect for flower, all though its best to have a mixture, so for flower you would have 3 x 2700k and 1 or 2 x 6400k cfls
6400kelvin is ideal for veg but a mixture of the 2 is a good option with cfls as you are using more bulbs, so the opposite would be ideal so 3 x 6400k and 1 or 2 x 2700k cfls for veg,
when we use hid lighting we use hps for flower, not to sure what exact kelvin rating it is but its the orange light so its the red spectrum needed for flower
mh lights are the blue or white light so more suited for veg,
outdoors plants flower in autumn or towards end of summer when the sun is low in the sky and this gives a higher % of the red spectrum which is when plants flower, but i have seen growers flower plants in the middle of summer when the red spectrum is not as high, so its possible to veg and flower under either spectrum but best results would be red spectrum for flower and blue spectrum for veg,
with the hid lights you can now get a dual spectrum high pressure sodium, which is what ive been using since switching to a ballast type set up, the dual spectrum bulb comes as a hps bulb, but it contains higher levels of the blue spectrum needed for veg, so the dual spectrum bulb can be used for both veg and flower, usually you buy a mh bulb for veg and swap to hps for flower, if you got digital ballast then both types of bulb can be used in the same ballast,
so id say with fls and cfls id want to use a mixture for both veg and flower, i only start my plants under cfls for a week or 2 so i have a small cupboard set up with between 2 and 4 x30watt 6400k cfls, if im only sprouting 2 plants then ill use 2 bulbs but if i got clones or several seedlins then ill use all 4 cfls, but if i was using them for veg full time id have a mixture of the 2.
i think once you get used to growing and if you still want to use cfls then id either use a clone or a fem seed and set a scrog up, a scrog means anything below the canopy is cut off, so you dont need any light at the sides of the plant, you just have the lights above the plants which will have an even canopy becaue of the net, so you will have many buds growing and no issues with light penetration, its what i would do if i used cfls again, id have 1 plant, lots of veg time then fill a scrog, strip every branch off below the scrog and throw it away or use it as clones, below the scrog you want nothing growing, just naked stems and branches, then you will have many decent sized buds
trust me cfls will grow bud and will produce well, their are many journals with huge plants grown under cfls, so it can be done if set up right and the plant is getting as much light as possible, just having light above the plants means you will only have decent buds at the top of the plant, perfect for a scrog, if i went back to cfls then id do a scrog for sure, i think that is the best method for a pure cfl grow,
if scrog is not possible then side lighting is what you need and some form of low stress training, its possible to get good yields, i had a nl x bb that gave me 2oz under cfls with 5 weeks of veg then rest flower, so it is possible but i was using over 300 watt actual watt of cfls,
im pretty sure you will do ok, but dont be disapointed when the auto done do well, dont think its down to the lights your using, its just an auto, it wont yield much. the regular plants will be the best test of your set up, the auto will just be some bud to smoke while you get the other plants done,
what do you want to know about light spectrum
2700k up to about 4000k is ok for flower,
5000k and above is ok for veg,
basically the 2700kelvin cfls are perfect for flower, all though its best to have a mixture, so for flower you would have 3 x 2700k and 1 or 2 x 6400k cfls
6400kelvin is ideal for veg but a mixture of the 2 is a good option with cfls as you are using more bulbs, so the opposite would be ideal so 3 x 6400k and 1 or 2 x 2700k cfls for veg,
when we use hid lighting we use hps for flower, not to sure what exact kelvin rating it is but its the orange light so its the red spectrum needed for flower
mh lights are the blue or white light so more suited for veg,
outdoors plants flower in autumn or towards end of summer when the sun is low in the sky and this gives a higher % of the red spectrum which is when plants flower, but i have seen growers flower plants in the middle of summer when the red spectrum is not as high, so its possible to veg and flower under either spectrum but best results would be red spectrum for flower and blue spectrum for veg,
with the hid lights you can now get a dual spectrum high pressure sodium, which is what ive been using since switching to a ballast type set up, the dual spectrum bulb comes as a hps bulb, but it contains higher levels of the blue spectrum needed for veg, so the dual spectrum bulb can be used for both veg and flower, usually you buy a mh bulb for veg and swap to hps for flower, if you got digital ballast then both types of bulb can be used in the same ballast,
so id say with fls and cfls id want to use a mixture for both veg and flower, i only start my plants under cfls for a week or 2 so i have a small cupboard set up with between 2 and 4 x30watt 6400k cfls, if im only sprouting 2 plants then ill use 2 bulbs but if i got clones or several seedlins then ill use all 4 cfls, but if i was using them for veg full time id have a mixture of the 2.
i think once you get used to growing and if you still want to use cfls then id either use a clone or a fem seed and set a scrog up, a scrog means anything below the canopy is cut off, so you dont need any light at the sides of the plant, you just have the lights above the plants which will have an even canopy becaue of the net, so you will have many buds growing and no issues with light penetration, its what i would do if i used cfls again, id have 1 plant, lots of veg time then fill a scrog, strip every branch off below the scrog and throw it away or use it as clones, below the scrog you want nothing growing, just naked stems and branches, then you will have many decent sized buds
- Thread starter
- #150
Looks like you typed a big post and didnt see my spectrum thoughts before you sent it. i do that all the time!
Seems like we are on the same page Donpaul.p
After this run with autos Im plannign a SCRoG that will be about yields with either some GDP or sour D photo's i hve.
Icant be dissapointed with myautos sir, $7= 2-3 months of hobby plus free meds. If its close to 14g's ill feel like its about what I expected. If its less, Ill smoke it and be more than happy.!
Seems like we are on the same page Donpaul.p
After this run with autos Im plannign a SCRoG that will be about yields with either some GDP or sour D photo's i hve.
Icant be dissapointed with myautos sir, $7= 2-3 months of hobby plus free meds. If its close to 14g's ill feel like its about what I expected. If its less, Ill smoke it and be more than happy.!
its why i like this dual spectrum bulb, it gives the best of both spectrums under all stages of growth, its got the full spectrum these plants need,
the only thing i want to try is uv light, i know a lot of uv can damage the plant but its suppose to help produce more trichomes when uv is used, so at my moms ive got an old tanning lamp thing, sits on the floor and puts out uv light, not sure whats its for as its to small for a tanning bed its about knee high from the floor, so guess its used for tanning legs or even a face if its stood on a table, its got 5 uv tubes in it so i will try that with the plants sometime as i know the sun puts out uv so maybe it will benefit the plants if used in small amounts, say an hour or 2 a day,
my auto purple cheese is getting pretty fat now, pics in my journal, wont be a huge yield though, possibly 3 x 8ths at the very most dry, but its growing more buds on top of the other buds so its looking better each day, but its making me some fem seeds and some regular seeds.
one thing to try and not do Spimp is harvest early, i made this mistake in the past, these planst put on their most weight in the last 2 weeks, so when you think its done give it another 10 to 14 days, then it wll be a lot bigger and yield will be higher, you want the calyx to swell so they look like they got seeds in them, the white pistils are coming out of a calys, if pollen gets on these pistils then the seeds develop inside the calyx, but without pollen it takes a while for these calyx to swell, but they will swell but only towards the end of flower,
the only thing i want to try is uv light, i know a lot of uv can damage the plant but its suppose to help produce more trichomes when uv is used, so at my moms ive got an old tanning lamp thing, sits on the floor and puts out uv light, not sure whats its for as its to small for a tanning bed its about knee high from the floor, so guess its used for tanning legs or even a face if its stood on a table, its got 5 uv tubes in it so i will try that with the plants sometime as i know the sun puts out uv so maybe it will benefit the plants if used in small amounts, say an hour or 2 a day,
my auto purple cheese is getting pretty fat now, pics in my journal, wont be a huge yield though, possibly 3 x 8ths at the very most dry, but its growing more buds on top of the other buds so its looking better each day, but its making me some fem seeds and some regular seeds.
one thing to try and not do Spimp is harvest early, i made this mistake in the past, these planst put on their most weight in the last 2 weeks, so when you think its done give it another 10 to 14 days, then it wll be a lot bigger and yield will be higher, you want the calyx to swell so they look like they got seeds in them, the white pistils are coming out of a calys, if pollen gets on these pistils then the seeds develop inside the calyx, but without pollen it takes a while for these calyx to swell, but they will swell but only towards the end of flower,
- Thread starter
- #152
I expeirenced this first hand my first micro. 2 weeks is like 20% difference. Not to menion quite a nice couchlock high. Glad I waited it out on the 2nd girl.
its always the same, i end up typing the same or similar to someone else,
the kc45 autos from herbies head shop are really cheap, i paid £10 for 10 seeds and got 3 seeds free,
plus herbies is a good place to shop, even if you buy just 1 seed then herbie sends you 3 free seeds, 1 will be fem or fem auto and the other 2 will be regular seeds, ive had some very nice strains for free, even a gdp for free, so i dont shop anywhere else now, just herbies head shop for me, cant beat his prices or his free seed offer, the more you spend the more you get free, when i have had a problem with a seed like the jack flash fem, it turned out male, i let herbie know then in my next order their was an extra 2 free seeds, he sent me another 2 jack flash#5 fem seeds, so his services is top notch,
for nutrients you cant beat corey and blue planet nutrients, cost of shipping to me is more than the product but it gives amazing results and the plants seem to love it, so until i can find something similar over here ill use bpn or im going to give this super soil a go, dont need any nutes from start to finish, just water and the plants veg and flower with no nutes, so cant wait to give that a try.
the kc45 autos from herbies head shop are really cheap, i paid £10 for 10 seeds and got 3 seeds free,
plus herbies is a good place to shop, even if you buy just 1 seed then herbie sends you 3 free seeds, 1 will be fem or fem auto and the other 2 will be regular seeds, ive had some very nice strains for free, even a gdp for free, so i dont shop anywhere else now, just herbies head shop for me, cant beat his prices or his free seed offer, the more you spend the more you get free, when i have had a problem with a seed like the jack flash fem, it turned out male, i let herbie know then in my next order their was an extra 2 free seeds, he sent me another 2 jack flash#5 fem seeds, so his services is top notch,
for nutrients you cant beat corey and blue planet nutrients, cost of shipping to me is more than the product but it gives amazing results and the plants seem to love it, so until i can find something similar over here ill use bpn or im going to give this super soil a go, dont need any nutes from start to finish, just water and the plants veg and flower with no nutes, so cant wait to give that a try.
cant remember whos journal it was ill check, but he put up a harvest pic and you could see how swollen his plant was, looked like it was seeded, but just swollen, its the perfect pic for a ready to harvest plant, ive harvested early myself, but now i know its ready when its ready, the last 2 weeks of flower really pay off if you let the plant finish,
like you i learned the hard way.
im just smoking some kc45 now, its a nice tangy smoke, pretty similar to jack flash, its an sativa heavy auto, but a nice smoke, better than i thought it would be considering the price,
you know what i dont get, why do some seeds cost £50 per seed when some cost just £1 per seed,
surely a plant produces the same amount of seeds, so a £50 plant will produce the same amount of seeds as a £1 plant, so how can they justify charging sky high prices for seeds when its no harder to get seeds from one plant than it is another, i could understand if the £50 plant only gave 10 seeds per seeded harvest, but it produces the same as any other plant of this type, i know it might of been hard work to perfect the strain, but once perfected surely the seeds shouldnt cost as much as that,
but i guess if you have a pair of jeans that cost £20 and some that cost £400 then the people with more money than sense will go for the £400 pair, so i guess if the price is high we all think its high because its the best of the best, but even so, how can breeders justify prices like that, surely once the strain is stabe each plant can produce thousands of seeds, trust me i know they can, look how many seeds i got from plants when i only put pollen on a few buds, i got nearly 1000 seeds from 3 plants and just a few buds on each plant,
so they can produce as many seeds as they like so i cant see how one strain costs that much more than another, fair enough paying £1 to £15 or 20 for a seed but £50+ is a bit much for 1 seed,
like you i learned the hard way.
im just smoking some kc45 now, its a nice tangy smoke, pretty similar to jack flash, its an sativa heavy auto, but a nice smoke, better than i thought it would be considering the price,
you know what i dont get, why do some seeds cost £50 per seed when some cost just £1 per seed,
surely a plant produces the same amount of seeds, so a £50 plant will produce the same amount of seeds as a £1 plant, so how can they justify charging sky high prices for seeds when its no harder to get seeds from one plant than it is another, i could understand if the £50 plant only gave 10 seeds per seeded harvest, but it produces the same as any other plant of this type, i know it might of been hard work to perfect the strain, but once perfected surely the seeds shouldnt cost as much as that,
but i guess if you have a pair of jeans that cost £20 and some that cost £400 then the people with more money than sense will go for the £400 pair, so i guess if the price is high we all think its high because its the best of the best, but even so, how can breeders justify prices like that, surely once the strain is stabe each plant can produce thousands of seeds, trust me i know they can, look how many seeds i got from plants when i only put pollen on a few buds, i got nearly 1000 seeds from 3 plants and just a few buds on each plant,
so they can produce as many seeds as they like so i cant see how one strain costs that much more than another, fair enough paying £1 to £15 or 20 for a seed but £50+ is a bit much for 1 seed,
runewulfsong
New Member
"percieved value" is a b*7ch, ain't it? Which is all that is, that and/or hype/marketing. It is frusturating though. And the price for some of the landrace strain seeds, ugh.
- Thread starter
- #156
Considering the hyprocracy in my country regarding MJ, Im never surprised anymore. Greed and capitolism share a thin edge...
runewulfsong
New Member
Yeah, true dat... the US has some screwy crap going on, even in medical cannabis states... ugh.
Good Weed, Spimp
I would like a light that started the day with 2700k, morphing into 6500k untill "Late afternoon/evening"
when 2700 k is added and replaces 6500k completely for the last few hours until lights out.
That every day, with longer 2700k and shorter pure 6500k lighting hours as the "year" went on.
Probably need a dedicated pc to control the switching lights,
but I think that would replicate nature more than ON/OFF with either light spectrum.
And Cfls put out UV light. That's why you should never use them as a desk or bedlight.
UV is the one big advantage of Cfls over HPS (no uv) and gardens which augment HPS with Cfls seem to do best
As Spimp says, I could be 100% wrong.
But i'm not.
I would like a light that started the day with 2700k, morphing into 6500k untill "Late afternoon/evening"
when 2700 k is added and replaces 6500k completely for the last few hours until lights out.
That every day, with longer 2700k and shorter pure 6500k lighting hours as the "year" went on.
Probably need a dedicated pc to control the switching lights,
but I think that would replicate nature more than ON/OFF with either light spectrum.
And Cfls put out UV light. That's why you should never use them as a desk or bedlight.
UV is the one big advantage of Cfls over HPS (no uv) and gardens which augment HPS with Cfls seem to do best
As Spimp says, I could be 100% wrong.
But i'm not.
good weed Spimp
you can buy black lights and UV lights separate to supplement UVs that are naked to the human eye and most of either CFLs or HIDs have the same but not enhanced like the above mentioned bulbs.
as far as the change during the day of different spectrum's, all you need is separate timers
if you think that a hid does not have UVs go to sleep under one.they sell glasses for eye protection from HID bulbsGood Weed, Spimp
I would like a light that started the day with 2700k, morphing into 6500k untill "Late afternoon/evening"
when 2700 k is added and replaces 6500k completely for the last few hours until lights out.
That every day, with longer 2700k and shorter pure 6500k lighting hours as the "year" went on.
Probably need a dedicated pc to control the switching lights,
but I think that would replicate nature more than ON/OFF with either light spectrum.
And Cfls put out UV light. That's why you should never use them as a desk or bedlight.
UV is the one big advantage of Cfls over HPS (no uv) and gardens which augment HPS with Cfls seem to do best
As Spimp says, I could be 100% wrong.
But i'm not.
you can buy black lights and UV lights separate to supplement UVs that are naked to the human eye and most of either CFLs or HIDs have the same but not enhanced like the above mentioned bulbs.
as far as the change during the day of different spectrum's, all you need is separate timers
Ok, I'm Wrong.
Again.....
Again.....