Yo Danish! Long time... my apologies for that. Not a fun winter. Spring now though! I can't just this moment, but I'll take a closer look at this; and please don't hesitate to private mssg me on here if you want some help or feedback or whatever. Speak soon.
ResD

What’s good my brother? Haven’t crossed path around here since last year. Hope you good !

Still waiting on some pheno reports if that’s even still on the table.
If you have time might wanna check out what I’m doing this time around, I’m gonna try a SIP see if I can pull it off.
 
Hi all, I made a post a while back detailing my DIY SIP build and wanted to stop back in after harvest to go over performance and results. This very type of post being done by all of you is what convinced me to abandon my long-thought-out plan and impulsively spend a couple more dollars and get into something I had no idea about. Let's see what happened!

First thing is first, I had two distinct phenos from seed (strain: Blueberry), 124 days from germination. They started in solo-sips (I think I also made a picture post of that too somewhere) and went straight to the 5 gallon SIPs. After 'priming' the 5 gallon SIPs (@ReservoirDog details this here) they were transplanted from their solo sips on day 19 from germination. This means they spent 105 days in the 5 gallon sips. The soil media was 40% by volume perlite to FF Happy Frog, with Myco mixed in. On up pot they received a generous amount of myco on the root ball and in the hole.

Right on, with the details out of the way let's take a look-see.


This plant was last watered 3/4 gallons 9 days before she was cut down. The media is quite saturated still, which shows she slowed her drinking considerably at the end. Perhaps next time I'll need to pay more attention to this and siphon the water out if I'm going to attempt any sort of drought.


This plant, however, was last watered 8 days before harvest and the media was slightly moist and not saturated at all. To note here is the build-up of 'nutrient sludge' at the bottom of the bucket, conveniently in the same circle as the reservoir. Using synthetic bottled nutes (FF Dirty Dozen) I encountered a lockout deficiency as I wasn't really flushing like the nute schedule says to. The design of this particular SIP makes flushing that out almost impossible.

I widened the overflow hole and spent hours adding a gallon of water at a time (supposed to be 15 gallons...I only had time for 10 gallons after a few hours of doing it) through the top in the bathtub and waiting for it to drain through that tiny hole, which is obviously too high up on the bucket for any nutrient sludge matter to be flushed out. Luckily after I flushed once mid-flower, the def went away and I encountered no more problems.


This picture shows the reservoir still in place. The reddish root mass you see inside the reservoir dropped down from the media column, through the air gap, and into the water. All the way to the bottom of the bucket. It is interconnected with the channels I drilled into the bottom rim of the reservoir, which you can see those roots grew along the bottom of the bucket through those channels and into the res.


Reservoir is now removed. I used a 5 qt mixing bucket cut down to hold 4 qts, and on the bottom of that bucket is a rim. This is the swirling you see above, in the corner (do circles have corners....???? :bongrip:). I don't believe I had any bad effects due to that rim being on the res. You can see roots made it all the way down to the bottom of the bucket between the walls of the bucket and the res.


Side shot of root detail. The white mass you see towards the bottom right is perlite right in front of the overflow hole. Interestingly, when you look at @Buds Buddy 's root pictures using the inserts, his root mass doesn't seem to go down into the res (mostly). Whereas with this DIY bucket the roots seem to have a mass around the air gap, but equally so where the top of the water would be in the res, below the air gap. This is super interesting to me, as I mimicked the very same commercially available insert he grew in and expected the same roots. Perhaps someone has an idea as to why they're different?


Here we have the root ball split open and laid over. The gnarly mass front and center hit the top of the res and stopped. I have experience in hydro and did not seem to notice any fishbone roots in the res area, interestingly. Neither in the soil where the media would have remained wet/moist the most. For posterity I would only water enough that they can drink the res to empty in 2-3 days. But it never stayed empty, thus those bottom-most roots remained moist the entire time and did not experience any kind of wet/dry cycle that I can determine.


Lastly, detail of the root mass. Above the thicker roots you have fine hair-like roots that were directly under the entire surface. When I flushed mid-flower I was surprised by how many roots were being uncovered at the surface. Every inch of volume in this 5 gallon bucket had roots. And hey, who doesn't like sweet root pics?

And that just about sums up my observations on my DIY SIP container. Super fun and easy to make/use/harvest from. Results speak for themselves, even though this is only my second grow. I'll be using these from now on, that's for sure! Thanks for reading!


Blueberry #2 grown in 5 gallon DIY SIP.
 
Thank You for that, Aspen!
Very interesting read, answered some questions, too👍
 
Hi all, I made a post a while back detailing my DIY SIP build and wanted to stop back in after harvest to go over performance and results. This very type of post being done by all of you is what convinced me to abandon my long-thought-out plan and impulsively spend a couple more dollars and get into something I had no idea about. Let's see what happened!

First thing is first, I had two distinct phenos from seed (strain: Blueberry), 124 days from germination. They started in solo-sips (I think I also made a picture post of that too somewhere) and went straight to the 5 gallon SIPs. After 'priming' the 5 gallon SIPs (@ReservoirDog details this here) they were transplanted from their solo sips on day 19 from germination. This means they spent 105 days in the 5 gallon sips. The soil media was 40% by volume perlite to FF Happy Frog, with Myco mixed in. On up pot they received a generous amount of myco on the root ball and in the hole.

Right on, with the details out of the way let's take a look-see.
Excellent write-up AC, and similar to the design I'm thinking of for one plant outside this summer. Your plastic tub seems to have fewer holes in the side than I was planning on drilling in the res, so do you think more water exchange would have made any difference?

:thanks: for sharing that!
 
:thanks: Carcass and Shed!

Excellent write-up AC, and similar to the design I'm thinking of for one plant outside this summer. Your plastic tub seems to have fewer holes in the side than I was planning on drilling in the res, so do you think more water exchange would have made any difference?

:thanks: for sharing that!

It was a pleasure to put together (the post) and since I learned everything I know from this thread (and of course Azi dropping by my journal!) I definitely needed to give back!

That's a great question and I'm afraid I don't have the experience to give a definitive answer. Although, I do have an observation: the gro-bucket inserts don't actually have holes on the sides. So why did I decide to drill holes into mine? I'll be honest, I read my build post, no clue why I did that. I probably read something earlier in the thread and made that decision.

Back to the observation though: with the inserts not having holes drilled into the sides, that could be why the insert pic from Buds I linked showed most of the roots stopping above the air gap. If the soil wicked too much, or perhaps too little (which is my uneducated guess), roots wouldn't live in the environment. With holes in the side of my res, and 40% perlite, I'm confident in the soil between the res and the bucket wall remained wet at the same level of the water in the res at any given time. Because the roots dove straight to the bottom of the bucket, even with this assumingly wetter environment (and fully saturated at times, for days at a time) the roots thrived. On observation alone I'd say roots have the capability to thrive in the saturated environment. With that typed out - I think any amount of holes would be beneficial just based on the comparison alone (and not knowing any other variables, like soil make-up and whether perlite was used on his end to aid in wicking).
 
Interesting dive into your thought process, but this left me confused:

Without holes in the sides where would the soil interface the water?

There is a ruffle at the bottom of the original insert which allows water to move from the bottom of the res towards the outside of the bucket. This is the only place the water actually touches soil. The moisture gradient starts there, at the very bottom of the bucket, and moves up between the res and the bucket wall.

Conversely in the build pictures I linked to, I show the res sitting flat on the counter top simulating sitting on the bottom of the bucket. I have holes drilled around the very bottom to mimic that ruffle that's on the insert.
 
Sweet report @AspenCultivator. Still any snow on the slopes?

That 5-gal bucket-style with DIY insert makes for awesome root pics at the end. I run an adjustable two-part pure hydro nute (MC2pt) in my non-organic SIPs (w/ Promix, which is very well buffered) and for weed I haven't had any issues when keeping my N around 150-160ppm. But I did have an early flower lockout on one pot, well, technically, in one plant (two plants per tote, in bags sitting on a false-floor) and that SIP I was running a much hotter mix, my log says 250ppm of N - which seems excessive for any system. I hadda do one of those overnight flushes too and it was a drag even though I use a battery-powered pump. My pistles were going red as soon as they popped out so it was obvious something was going down. After doing a slurry test of some good deep down 'soil' I think a got a reading of, from memory, 2000ppm! Well, that put me straight and I set off to lower it by half by flushing. The pH was still fine though! (let's hear it for ProMix and SS#4! Stuff just has an awesome buffer, even reusable with a little DE in there the second time around and it is 'literally' cheaper than dirt, cheap as borscht)

When you have a passive system like this the plant's opportunities for feeding are constant and so it does seem to require a lot less nutrient, in my experience with SIPs. Uh, for context, that 'experience' is only 100 SIP pots over 3 years now, inside and out, big and small, with veggies being 80% of those pots. So I'm just starting to figure things out and, "Lord willin' and the creek don't rise" will get there in time. Pretty chuffed with where I’m at though.

I still like DWC for the pure hydro experience, but I like this for the product, speed, cost and flexibility... oh the flexibility! That, and not having to ever chuck out old nute water. It uses every drop of water/nutes you feed it, which I think is a big, big bonus because it means you can use synth nutes extremely responsibly with no fuss.

You gotta try some tomatoes or cukes in SIPs this year, they are delicious, huge, and plentiful! Sure buckets and totes aren't everyone's idea of a beautiful garden but get creative and it can be quite nice. Visual design-wise, all you gotta think about is drawing the eye away from the pot and up onto the plants. Yield-wise there’s just no comparison, and if that’s the goal, well…

I wander around my street early on recycling day, messing up all my neighbour's nice organized recycling, looking for SIP materials. Then, all winter, I build random SIPs as time and materials allow. Neighbours come strolling by in the summer and kinda stare at my 'pots' with their heads cocked over to one side looking like they just might recognize something.

Speaking of - I re-used these 4l ice cream buckets to get some fresh air into my tents, they work a treat and plant’s are showing appreciation! I totally forget they are even there. I even made filters out of the lids. DIY? D-I-Why Not? Have a good one everyone.
38A7DE67-EDE3-4CF5-BC28-70D365FC1A43.jpeg
 
There is a ruffle at the bottom of the original insert which allows water to move from the bottom of the res towards the outside of the bucket. This is the only place the water actually touches soil. The moisture gradient starts there, at the very bottom of the bucket, and moves up between the res and the bucket wall
Oh okay, I somehow thought there should be more places for the water and soil to meet, like those center column socks or perforated pipe that extend into the res. I'm planning on using an upside down Twizzlers tub for the res but I'm sure it won't meet the bottom of the bucket exactly, so kinda like a ruffle?
cheap as borscht
My dad liked borscht for some reason, but he didn't pass that taste on to me. :)
Neighbours come strolling by in the summer and kinda stare at my 'pots' with their heads cocked over to one side looking like they just might recognize something.
LOL excellent image!
 
You gotta try some tomatoes or cukes in SIPs this year

Definitely doing this, only another week or so to go before we're clear in my area (PNW in US, not Aspen unfortunately!)

Oh okay, I somehow thought there should be more places for the water and soil to meet, like those center column socks or perforated pipe that extend into the res. I'm planning on using an upside down Twizzlers tub for the res but I'm sure it won't meet the bottom of the bucket exactly, so kinda like a ruffle?

Yeah as long as there's water-to-soil connection in the very bottom of your outside container the moisture gradient can provide the most benefit. That's what was drilled into my head at the beginning of my journey, so I made sure to include that detail!

I started skimming back in the beginning of the thread and landed on that perf pipe and had the eureka moment that that's exactly why I drilled holes into the sides of mine. So it's not solely based on the commercial insert, but a hybrid of designs. Especially with the 40% perlite, the holes provide a lot of aeration to the soil that's compacted around the res. D'oh, I gotta start writing more of this stuff down :roorrip:
 
Getting ready for outdoor SIP season on Canada’s left coast. Cukes (and more cukes) tomatoes, beans, peas, red cabbage (I can only grow Brassicas in SIPs for reasons completely beyond me), romaine, spinach and zucchini… oh and a couple spaghetti squash. Trying new stuff in SIPs this year.
6278D6C7-DBF2-45ED-8671-2F9CAD321D65.jpeg

And while many will get first-class mini-SIP starts on life like the little tomato plant below, everyone gets bottom watered. I just love using these little porous baggies. I even use them for my perlite wicks. For plants, at transplant I spray the outside of the bag with water or SweetCandy or LABs (or all three!) and then roll it in mycos (it actually sticks) Step 2: drop the whole business in a hole. Done!
66989B92-14E6-4B47-9EB2-7CADB011C797.jpeg
 
Great recap, @AspenCultivator ! Well done. I like to say gardeners instantly become better growers just by growing in a SIP. I know I did.

Using synthetic bottled nutes (FF Dirty Dozen) I encountered a lockout deficiency as I wasn't really flushing like the nute schedule says to. The design of this particular SIP makes flushing that out almost impossible.
As we said at the time, the two bucket design shown in the video in the design post on page two of this thread is probably the preferred one for those who use nutes that recommend a flush.

With that one you could simply lift the upper bucket with the soil and plant up out of the lower bucket with the reservoir and set it on something to protect the connector cup and flush away.

Then clean out the reservoir bucket of any sludge or leftovers, reconnect them and grow on.

Side shot of root detail. The white mass you see towards the bottom right is perlite right in front of the overflow hole. Interestingly, when you look at @Buds Buddy 's root pictures using the inserts, his root mass doesn't seem to go down into the res (mostly). Whereas with this DIY bucket the roots seem to have a mass around the air gap, but equally so where the top of the water would be in the res, below the air gap. This is super interesting to me, as I mimicked the very same commercially available insert he grew in and expected the same roots. Perhaps someone has an idea as to why they're different?
I think there may be a couple of things in play here. First, as mentioned, the commercial inserts don't have much in the way of holes between the soil and the reservoir/air chamber. This negates the ability of roots to avail themselves of oxygen, and we know the roots love them some O2.

Second, I think Buds' grow practice is to keep his rez mostly topped off. I've noticed that keeping the rez full too early seems to stall the plant as it tries to adjust to a wetter than normal environment.

My guess is that the two issues combine to mostly keep the roots out of the lowest, and wettest, area of the bucket. What would be interesting to see is if someone growing with the commercial inserts made a series of side and top holes, if they would get roots to fully populate the entire soil area.

For posterity I would only water enough that they can drink the res to empty in 2-3 days. But it never stayed empty, thus those bottom-most roots remained moist the entire time and did not experience any kind of wet/dry cycle that I can determine.
That's the way I do it, especially early in the grow. I figure there's not much good that can come from giving them more water if they haven't used what's there already.

Your plastic tub seems to have fewer holes in the side than I was planning on drilling in the res, so do you think more water exchange would have made any difference?
I think it's more about air than it is water. As long as there's some leakage between the reservoir cavity and the soil, the water will do its thing. Air, on the other hand, benefits from more access to roots (actually the other way around), so I put lots of holes in the container that serves as the void which makes up the reservoir/air chamber.

Back to the observation though: with the inserts not having holes drilled into the sides, that could be why the insert pic from Buds I linked showed most of the roots stopping above the air gap.
Agreed.
 
Aspen was thinking that the holes in the sides of the res tub weren't necessary, and that the only place the water needed to meet the soil was at the very bottom where there were gaps between the upside down tub and the bottom of the bucket.

TLDR - You want that airgap transferring oxygen via steadily replenished atmo-gasses into the soil as much, and as low, as possible. :thumb:

The holes are there so the atmo-gasses in the airgap can pass into the soil, which is why the airgap's there if you think about it, well, that and to limit the water transfer rate into the planter - but those two results live on the same axis.

Note also that there doesn't seem to be a top-end to how much atmo-gas you can pass into the airgap itself and subsequently the soil, without negative response, provided your wicking rate is good. I've tested this idea to death (er, life, I meant life!). To that end, a second drain hole on the other side of the pot will help and not hurt, and will get more atmo-gasses in into the rez and subsequently up through the holes in your upside-down bucket rez. I hope that's clearish.

I tested the "can there be too much incoming atmo-gas to the reservoir and subsequently the soil", question in multiple ways. During testing I ppm'd soil, ph'd rez and soil, then inspected roots carefully at the end. For testing I created a rez with more airgap-level holes than reservoir walls, it had almost nothing but holes around the entire pot for full circumfluence and 4 inch deep, as the airgap was min. 4 inches deep. Testing, yield, and root exam were all nominal.

I've also hammered a rez, full-time, with airstones; two 5 inch dia. circular stones running off a 30w air pump running full-time for an entire grow, also with a large airgap and this time with few escapes for the air as pressure builds except for up through the soil (I omitted drain holes and used floating level marker). Results: Nominal - except for the fact that the rez water became so oxygenated that it filled up with DWC-style herring-bone roots. So I had a DWC and a SIP going, on the same plant! Topside, the plant's yield and quality were very similar if not identical to its clone, run in a traditional SIP.


Drilling lots of little holes into the "reservoir body" (the upside down bucket), on its top as least as far down as the reservoir airgap goes, permits that air to enter the soil matrix at the bottom where it is needed to oxygenize the watery bottom layers of soil. The word 'aerate' here isn't specific enough, as the concept is oxygen levels which the plants themselves will remove from the water, without taking the water, which can cause root rot, just like DWC. So, holes at the top are great, but since that gap often becomes much wider with rez level dropping everyday, holes all the way down the sides mean intermittent aeration and oxygen to those low-low levels where root rot is likeliest. Just make them small enough so wet soil can't easily fall through, and then, so long as you don't topwater so much as to send that soil through the wee holes, you can avoid covering it with a porous, synthetic fabric barrier. 1/8 inch hole max for me does the job whether with peat or LOS/TLO, so I think 1/8 dia. hole-size is OK to use with any matrix. Landscaping cloth, the cheap two-year rated stuff works great if truly needed, or if you're nervous and want to play it as safe as you can dream it. Be aware that cotton t-shirts, burlap, indeed every natural material I've tried, tight weave or loose, thick or thin, all rot out within 6-8 weeks. Felt lasted the longest but did not even last half a grow.

I wouldn't blame anyone for questioning how the hell I actually know the timetable for this disintegration... after I discovered the issue I began tests with no plants, just soil.

I'm constantly working to discover SIPs' actual limits, blind-spots, and with that data try to design some capabilities that might introduce a touch more controllability for us. Not that I'm having issues. I muck around this way because after forced retirement in my early forties, I desperately need intellectual and physical challenges, and I may have a slightly stronger-than-is-healthy need to feel useful.:rolleyes:
 
TLDR - You want that airgap transferring oxygen via steadily replenished atmo-gasses into the soil as much, and as low, as possible. :thumb:

The holes are there so the atmo-gasses in the airgap can pass into the soil, which is why the airgap's there if you think about it, well, that and to limit the water transfer rate into the planter - but those two results live on the same axis.

Note also that there doesn't seem to be a top-end to how much atmo-gas you can pass into the airgap itself and subsequently the soil, without negative response, provided your wicking rate is good. I've tested this idea to death (er, life, I meant life!). To that end, a second drain hole on the other side of the pot will help and not hurt, and will get more atmo-gasses in into the rez and subsequently up through the holes in your upside-down bucket rez. I hope that's clearish.

I tested the "can there be too much incoming atmo-gas to the reservoir and subsequently the soil", question in multiple ways. During testing I ppm'd soil, ph'd rez and soil, then inspected roots carefully at the end. For testing I created a rez with more airgap-level holes than reservoir walls, it had almost nothing but holes around the entire pot for full circumfluence and 4 inch deep, as the airgap was min. 4 inches deep. Testing, yield, and root exam were all nominal.

I've also hammered a rez, full-time, with airstones; two 5 inch dia. circular stones running off a 30w air pump running full-time for an entire grow, also with a large airgap and this time with few escapes for the air as pressure builds except for up through the soil (I omitted drain holes and used floating level marker). Results: Nominal - except for the fact that the rez water became so oxygenated that it filled up with DWC-style herring-bone roots. So I had a DWC and a SIP going, on the same plant! Topside, the plant's yield and quality were very similar if not identical to its clone, run in a traditional SIP.


Drilling lots of little holes into the "reservoir body" (the upside down bucket), on its top as least as far down as the reservoir airgap goes, permits that air to enter the soil matrix at the bottom where it is needed to oxygenize the watery bottom layers of soil. The word 'aerate' here isn't specific enough, as the concept is oxygen levels which the plants themselves will remove from the water, without taking the water, which can cause root rot, just like DWC. So, holes at the top are great, but since that gap often becomes much wider with rez level dropping everyday, holes all the way down the sides mean intermittent aeration and oxygen to those low-low levels where root rot is likeliest. Just make them small enough so wet soil can't easily fall through, and then, so long as you don't topwater so much as to send that soil through the wee holes, you can avoid covering it with a porous, synthetic fabric barrier. 1/8 inch hole max for me does the job whether with peat or LOS/TLO, so I think 1/8 dia. hole-size is OK to use with any matrix. Landscaping cloth, the cheap two-year rated stuff works great if truly needed, or if you're nervous and want to play it as safe as you can dream it. Be aware that cotton t-shirts, burlap, indeed every natural material I've tried, tight weave or loose, thick or thin, all rot out within 6-8 weeks. Felt lasted the longest but did not even last half a grow.

I wouldn't blame anyone for questioning how the hell I actually know the timetable for this disintegration... after I discovered the issue I began tests with no plants, just soil.

I'm constantly working to discover SIPs' actual limits, blind-spots, and with that data try to design some capabilities that might introduce a touch more controllability for us. Not that I'm having issues. I muck around this way because after forced retirement in my early forties, I desperately need intellectual and physical challenges, and I may have a slightly stronger-than-is-healthy need to feel useful.:rolleyes:
Terrific answer RD! So the aeration provided to the soil with holes all the way top to bottom isn't offset by the increased moisture transfer to the dirt when the water is above the holes?

Or does the soil just saturate the same either way?
 
Terrific answer RD! So the aeration provided to the soil with holes all the way top to bottom isn't offset by the increased moisture transfer to the dirt when the water is above the holes?

Or does the soil just saturate the same either way?
All of my 'upsidedown bucket' - style DIY SIPs are different sizes, with interior 'buckets' that are shorter than "Gro-bucket", except one which is a full size Rubbermaid trashcan with big pot inside, and while I perceive differences among them all, their similarities stand out much more. No, the holes don't appear to alter the steady-state of wetness, but they could offer some control. Especially if you're a droughter because it takes these things 3 weeks of being empty just to start to dry out. 'Some people' use upside-down colanders without issue (I think @Carcass and maybe @Azimuth), and I've seen others do the holes with epic results. You can always just place them an inch or so down from the top in the area of the full-state airgap, but you do need some right on the bottom to let some water in.
 
All of my 'upsidedown bucket' - style DIY SIPs are different sizes, with interior 'buckets' that are shorter than "Gro-bucket", except one which is a full size Rubbermaid trashcan with big pot inside, and while I perceive differences among them all, their similarities stand out much more. No, the holes don't appear to alter the steady-state of wetness, but they could offer some control. Especially if you're a droughter because it takes these things 3 weeks of being empty just to start to dry out. 'Some people' use upside-down colanders without issue (I think @Carcass and maybe @Azimuth), and I've seen others do the holes with epic results. You can always just place them an inch or so down from the top in the area of the full-state airgap, but you do need some right on the bottom to let some water in.
I was planning on going with Aspen's design but with more holes and fewer printed plastic parts. :)

Oh, and a pipe running from the res to the overflow hole rather than the packed perlite method.
 
All of my 'upsidedown bucket' - style DIY SIPs are different sizes, with interior 'buckets' that are shorter than "Gro-bucket", except one which is a full size Rubbermaid trashcan with big pot inside, and while I perceive differences among them all, their similarities stand out much more. No, the holes don't appear to alter the steady-state of wetness, but they could offer some control. Especially if you're a droughter because it takes these things 3 weeks of being empty just to start to dry out. 'Some people' use upside-down colanders without issue (I think @Carcass and maybe @Azimuth), and I've seen others do the holes with epic results. You can always just place them an inch or so down from the top in the area of the full-state airgap, but you do need some right on the bottom to let some water in.

This was what I was trying to convey when I was talking about the holes. I definitely believe the holes provide aeration which led to more roots in the bucket. More roots = bigger plants. The holes definitely affect any droughting at the end though, as after waiting over a week in late flower for the bucket to drain (or rather, the plant to drink what she had) just didn't happen. Since it was only my second grow (and my first was hydro, so no droughting there) I am not sure how droughting would have affected my results.
 
Thought I would follow up on @AspenCultivator notes and show a similar issue when running my first SIP. I’m a longtime grower but have very limited time to post a journal. I do greatly appreciate all the knowledge and information I have gained from members and this site !

I’m Peat/Perlite grower (pro mix) and I’ve been using MC nutes the last few years and have great results. I recently switched over to homemade nutes with help from @farside05 and he helped develop a RO version of his mix. I have to use RO water as my well water is extremely hard ! I also switched to his homemade Fauxmix. I just like the hands on ability to make my own when needed. My grow before last was using both of these and the outcome was one of our best ! Below at about 8 weeks.
D97CC80B-F888-4C19-893F-14555179BD22.jpeg


I liked the SIP flexibility on watering with my work schedule and also the elemination of removing the plants from the GR to water and collect runoff. So we switched this last Spring grow and tried the commercial available system for the 5-gal buckets. Still using Fauxmix and Farsides nutes for RO.
All started out well until about week 6 when a deficiency definitely showed up on all plants. Tried tweaking the mix for another week and half, but knew something just wasn’t working in the res. Switched over to mostly watering from the top and the plants settled back into a decent grow. Of course the damaged leaves did not revert, but new sugar leaves and bud development did improve. I’ve not had a grow go this far south in over 10 years.
941597AF-76DA-4BF4-A888-63FB46DC61E6.jpeg


After harvest I pulled the plant to look at the roots. They all had decent root mass, and they had grown down well below the overflow level, even though this may have occurred after I switched to all top watering ??
CDE98626-31DD-4CA1-812F-872D710506B3.jpeg

42682C16-F73A-49D9-97B2-4984E284E077.jpeg


I’m not sure but I feel that there is a buffering issue that develops at some time in the annulus down by the water level where the roots push. There is just so much water passing through this area that the soil loses its buffering capacity and this is where all of the roots are going to. I don’t ph my nute water and haven’t for many years.
I really would like to stay with the SIP as I love the ability to be away for a few days when necessary. But need to figure out how to tackle this issue. Won’t start the fall grow till October due to the weather so have some time to decipher !

Interesting that @farside05 has not had this problem with his switch to SIP ?

Wonder if maintaining the full res water level might also be speeding up the reduction in buffering ?
 
Back
Top Bottom