Ahoy Sipsters
I have a question, has anyone tried to switch into SIP after vegging? I am running Otters unsexed crews and want to go back into SIP currently being in soiless 1 gal pots of perlite and peat. After vegging I want to try and up pot into my rectangular earthboxes.
Thanks :)
I don't see why not...

Cheers
 
Ahoy Sipsters
I have a question, has anyone tried to switch into SIP after vegging? I am running Otters unsexed crews and want to go back into SIP currently being in soiless 1 gal pots of perlite and peat. After vegging I want to try and up pot into my rectangular earthboxes.
Thanks :)
Yes, but because they need a 2-3 week transition time you want to do that well before you flip.
 
Hello all! A little hair cut to help with air flow
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Say Azi could it be that in the SIP my plants are a bit more sensitive to the light? as they're so hydrated?.. I can't lower the light they instantly start canoeing and relax as soon as I let off.
Previous pot grow could take a lot of heat before showing stressy signs
I haven't noticed that specific to the SIP but different strains certainly can be more or less sensitive.
 
I haven't noticed that specific to the SIP but different strains certainly can be more or less sensitive.
Could be too these are those modern day weak high THC sweet genetics :D
But yeah I thought because these are moving a lot of liquid.. so yeah they're already transpiring hard, or the myco? everything is a bit more giga, larger pores, yeah feels a touch more delicate, everything also grew fast, previous plant was built way slower.
 
They are definitely moving a lot of liquid.. if two leaves touch they get soaking wet in a short amount of time.
And well I need to refill the res way too often for the veg cycle.

Another thing, I kinda completely forgot drilling the holes with switching it too full soil, but so far so good?
So I'm not buying the airgap thing.. also because there's no use for air with hydroroots those can't deal with oxygen from air they can only extract oxygen from water.
So the roots that get coaxed to the res and transform can't do anything with any air that's down below
But maybe it does help pruning the roots at bottom causing them to split off more?
 
So I'm not buying the airgap thing..
At your peril. The air gap seems to be super important to the magic of SIPs. If your plant is drinking strongly than that air gap gets created on its own, but building the SIP so that air gap is connected to outside air helps refresh that air.

I like to build mine so the fill tube ends right at the divider between the soil and the air gap, but others have drilled holes in the fill tube if it continues on the the bottom of the container. If done that way its important to bevel the bottom of the fill tube so it doesn't sit flush on the bottom.
 
Well I mean there's still an airgap above the water but the soil is contained in plastic above it. There's no holes punching through. And I'm also wondering what is that air doing for roots that gone hydro, those are perfectly happy sitting in water as there they can breathe.
Doesn't the air gap help maintain the oxygen level in the water?
 
Well I guess as the water goes down fresh air should enter, there's the pipe and a slit around all sides.. so yeah if it does that... okay well I still have airgap, so what I should have said I'm not believing the airgap holes are necessary? although they might airprune the roots which might be beneficial
 
Well I guess as the water goes down fresh air should enter, there's the pipe and a slit around all sides.. so yeah if it does that... okay well I still have airgap, so what I should have said I'm not believing the airgap holes are necessary? although they might airprune the roots which might be beneficial
When I designed my Triforce SIP, I studied up on oxygen permeation into soil, and the need for roots to have access to oxygen—what is called "root respiration". This is necessary for the biochemical processes that create the cellular energy that drives both water and nutrient uptake in the roots. In other words, roots love oxygen. If they don't get enough, because the soil is impervious to air, or because of too much water in the soil, this shuts down growth and also invites disease due to the anaerobic environment.

So in my design I maximized the surface area of the air-to-soil interface, by putting a lot of small holes in the domes, both on the top and on the sides. I call these the "air/water vents". The holes have a dual-dual purpose—air inflow/outflow and water inflow/outflow. As the reservoir level goes down, more holes provide air to the root zone. When the reservoir is filled down the tube, the water level in the domes rises, pushing air into the medium.

Another very important dynamic is the composition of the soil medium, which must accommodate good air flow. This is why it's very good to use lots of coconut coir, and a good amount of perlite as well. Keep in mind that on the microscopic level, the soil medium has lots of air space between the solid particles. The root filaments inhabit these spaces where they have plenty of access to oxygen.

More photos and details about my design HERE.

The heart of the Triforce SIP—three domes D1, D2, and D3. Note that there's a friction fit on the fill tube connection to D1, so that it can hover in place in the air pocket. When the bucket is filled with soil and in use, the fill tube can be adjusted slightly up or down no problem.
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#2 food grade HDPE plastic yogurt container.
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The shaded area is what I call the "R zone", where roots have access to the saturated medium in the reservoir, and also have access to the air vents. This R zone is much larger than in other SIP bucket designs, and provides a large wicking area as well.
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So far, so good...

A CBD clone recently transferred to the flower house. This is the first plant I've flowered in a SIP. She's drinking very well and doing great. The reservoir holds about a gallon of fertigation water, which gets used up in 1-2 days.
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HI-BISCUS comparison grow, Triforce SIP on the left. I'm at the point where the reservoir needs to be filled every 1-2 days—fertigated down the tube. The big lesson in this first SIP grow was that fertigation should have been started at 2 weeks into the grow.
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:ciao:
 
For anyone interested in GroBuckets, this is the US maker > GroBucket Self-Watering Insert (3 Pack)

They are working on getting them back into Canada, they are sending me a quote for a 10 pk (because of shipping cost).

I did hint we only need them in 4 pks :yahoo:

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Cheers
These are exactly what I’ve been using and man they are freaking great!!!

Even a dummy like me can grow some pretty decent mary jay juanas
 
Are you growing with 5 gal SIP buckets? Please take my poll here...


:ciao: :morenutes::peace:
 
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