Has some real nice colors shiggs, sour bubble, looks to be a fast finisher.
Yeah she is supposed to finish around 55days so I will start checking the trichs. Once I start to see a hint of amber she's coming down.
So... I've been bitching allot lately about LED lights. You've probably noticed.
I'm almost to the point where I'm going to throw my hat in the ring with you and make my own panels.
I'm really heat focused. I want to build a panel implementing external power supplies (drivers... why do they call power supplies 'drivers' in the LED panel world?) and external air hookups.
There are some issues of course. I'm a little worried about wire length in the external driver configuration. Air flow direction could be a challenge too... but probably not.
Of course, we'll have to see if a lazy Tead ever gets off his ass long enough to do anything... but the plans are brewing at least.
Tead high efficiency LED is the answer,especially the new board technology. The individual boards never hit over 100F as long as there is a good circulating fan in the area. So you can put them very close to your plants, even 8-12 inches. Many current manufacturers of grow lights are not as worried about efficiency and heat as we are because no one publishes Btus produced. The conscientious manufacturers do publish efficiency numbers. We want to try and make systems that will run above 60% efficiency. Currently white LEDs are the answer. Cree cxb3590 or bridgelux vero29 gen7 in the cob world, or quantum boards or sunboards in the circuit board world.
I like the sunboards for me because they run the cheapest. If I left the red diodes out of my build it would only cost me about 650 to build a 600 watt light. Pretty much a replacement for a 1000w sodium. A 60% efficiency 1000w build puts out half the heat of a high presssure sodium. But we are running it at about 600-650 watts to match the light output from an hps. Plus instead of a point source for the light we can emit light evenly over the whole grow area.
For instance my 4x4 light will output the same amount of photon flux density (average photon numbers hitting the designated area) as a 100w light. Not just directly under the bulb but also out at the edges.
So all in all think about this:
1. Hps puts out 18% of its light in the IR range so it raises the temperatures more.
2. Hps is less efficient (less than 40%) than efficient white builds (60%). This becomes significant in several ways.
A. More light at same wattage
B. Less heat at same wattage therefore less cooling needed.
C. True full spectrum of light
D. Don't need replacement for 10 years
Also not all LEDs are created equal. Some cheap colored monos can run barely more efficient than Hps! They claim more efficiency than hps but how much more efficient? 2%? Who knows without publishing relevant data. They also lack green and yellow light which are actually used by the plant for many things.
Right now white LEDs supplemented with high efficiency Cree colored LEDs (XPE, XPG), or Osrams seems like the ticket for me. Though white LEDs by themselves work amazingly. After this big light is made I am going to construct a 225w 3 board light that would be perfect for a 2x2 or 2x3 area in flower. It will cost me about about $250 to make.