Seriously - What's the best LED setup?

[Stltoed]

3000K is awesome for veg, plenty blue in there, best full cycle CCT you can get, and easy to add some signalling wavelengths with a handsul of monos

So you wouldn't recommend 4500k over 3000?

Actually this is not the case, 2700k - 5000k is ''full spectrum'', look at how blurples add green, yellow and white diodes to balance out the blue and red, many blurples are actually on the red side of 3000K.

Actually purple lights don't have a color temp. It doesn't apply to colors purple or green. There is no temp to heat up a "black body" that will glow green or purple.

A lot of LED arrays use those colors to chill out the purple color. Everyone thinks white light is better.i This is the difference between Black Dog Phytomax and Phytomax 2s.

QB288_388_spectrum_85ab6da3-96b2-4c3f-afc7-3fb6601c32ea_1024x1024

• PurpleGunRack
• Jan 9, 2018

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• PurpleGunRack
• Mar 27, 2018

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• PurpleGunRack
• Mar 27, 2018

[GALLERY=media,[/QUOTE]

 

[RedChin]

New grower here observing this overwhelming conversation. I have tossed HPS and LED back and forth for the last 2 weeks now. I have in one ear a buddy who grows the most dense bugs I've ever seen who swears by HPS, then folks on here who swear by COBs. I don't know what to do. I want my 1st grow done right. Money is not an issue, but I certainly don't want to waste money either.
Are there any testimonials out there on a hybrid setup with both hps and led?

 

[Mayne]

Forget HPS, Just my opinion.

Go QB, and COBS hybrid

what is your space?

Plus, im sure you know alllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll the other stuff you need,lol

 

[Mayne]

If you have all your stuff dialed in, such as humidity, temp, medium, and nutes, 4 QB288s will beat a 1000W HPS,

using almost less then half the watts at around 550w.

 

[Stltoed]

New grower here observing this overwhelming conversation. I have tossed HPS and LED back and forth for the last 2 weeks now. I have in one ear a buddy who grows the most dense bugs I've ever seen who swears by HPS, then folks on here who swear by COBs. I don't know what to do. I want my 1st grow done right. Money is not an issue, but I certainly don't want to waste money either.
Are there any testimonials out there on a hybrid setup with both hps and led?

I don't agree with a lot that has been said here. Sounds a little like some of the players are still a green on topic, but the message still comes through. LEDs are much cheaper to run than HPS. AND, they clearly work very well. I have used various store bought LEDs with great success. I've harvested 3 plants this season and my yield so far is 34oz.

I will be building a set of lights someday soon. I don't know what style of LED I will be using, it will probably an amalgamation of cobs and the logic boards from CHILLED. But, I'm not yet sure how they will come together.

If you arent an electrician go look at the wired kits from Timber, or Rapid. You basically attach the lights to a frame and plug it in. It's all done.

Cobs have proven, to me at least, that they are a true HPS replacement. It wasn't that long ago that HPS ruled the roost. LEDs have a much broader spectral range, and can be tailored to suit certain parts of a plants life if needed. One of the best reasons for building your lights is so you can change them as the tech. changes. Or, fix them as needed. ChilLED has a controler that allows you the change the spectrum as the plant changes. Exciting stuff.

Honestly, you don't need a doctorate in photon physics to grow pot. Anything you choose to do can be critiqued to death. You may go with cobs and get told by a quantum board user you did it all wrong... is that the case? Well, does it grow pot? I kind of doubt your first lights will be your last lights. My lights are frowned upon by most for more than one reason, but i really cant complain. You probably don't need a 12 unit cob fixture. Figure how much light will be needed for your space. I would make sure you can dim them for the early parts of the grow, that's just me. Look at various sources for info. There's tons of stuff out there. But, if you pulled the trigger on a "kit" I don't really think you could go wrong

 

[RedChin]

Forget HPS, Just my opinion.

Go QB, and COBS hybrid

what is your space?

Plus, im sure you know alllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll the other stuff you need,lol

Just received a 4x4 Gorilla tent a couple days ago.

 

[RedChin]

I've got 3 weeks to figure this out. My grower has some Obama and RudeBoi clones about ready

 

[Stltoed]

Just received a 4x4 Gorilla tent a couple days ago.

I have a gorilla tent in my garage. Aren't they amazing?

Are you gonna use soil, hydro? How many plants? I have 1 Spectrum King in my tent, with 2 plants. I usually grow in my shed, i have an RDWC system in there that I usually have 4 plants in. The shed also has a small closet that I grow with soil. You're gonna like that tent

 

[Stltoed]

I've got 3 weeks to figure this out. My grower has some Obama and RudeBoi clones about ready

Well, the easiest thing to do is buy a ready made fixture. But I believe you would regret it. I think I'd just get a Vero29 4 cob kit (with the square heatsink) from Timber LED. This will give a decent foot print and have enough power (400watts) that you won't outgrow it immediately. Timber does make stand alone fixtures that would work great, but there's a 1 week lead time. Any hold up would be bad.

 

[RedChin]

I have a gorilla tent in my garage. Aren't they amazing?

Are you gonna use soil, hydro? How many plants? I have 1 Spectrum King in my tent, with 2 plants. I usually grow in my shed, i have an RDWC system in there that I usually have 4 plants in. The shed also has a small closet that I grow with soil. You're gonna like that tent

At the moment I'm thinking high brix and 4 plants. 2 Obama's and 2 Rude Boi's. Do you have any negative pressure issues? Like too much negative pressure? That's my only forseeable problem. Prolly won't be an issue for sure if I go LED not havi g to worry so much about displacing heat

 

[Stltoed]

At the moment I'm thinking high brix and 4 plants. 2 Obama's and 2 Rude Boi's. Do you have any negative pressure issues? Like too much negative pressure? That's my only forseeable problem. Prolly won't be an issue for sure if I go LED not havi g to worry so much about displacing heat

None. That's a good question... I have a rather large fan for my exhaust, and all but 2 ducts closed on the tent

 

[Stltoed]

You may still have heat issues. LEDs aren't free from heat, just better at it. If you run 100 watt cobs you may still have a warm tent. The cool part is your plants will do better at higher temps (as much as 90 degrees with Co2 ) due to a high metabolism when using LEDs Sounds strange, but true.

If you were to go with the kits from Timber you may want at least 6 cobs for 4 plants, more if you can swing it.

 

[Stltoed]

So purple, would you recommend 3k over 4500?

You understand that purple lights don't have a color temp right?

 

[PurpleGunRack]

@RedChin For that tentI suggest you get 4 or 6 Quantum Boards 3000K from HLG/Timber/growersligts/amazon and a Far Red puck from RapidLED.
The kits are so easy to assemble, but if you dont feel like it, HLG and Growerslights can assemble them for you, for $25 per kit.

 

[Stltoed]

@RedChin For that tentI suggest you get 4 or 6 Quantum Boards 3000K from HLG/Timber/growersligts/amazon and a Far Red puck from RapidLED.
The kits are so easy to assemble, but if you dont feel like it, HLG and Growerslights can assemble them for you, for $25 per kit.

I think i would get the 4000k not 3000k.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

So purple, would you recommend 3k over 4500?

You understand that purple lights don't have a color temp right?

Just to clarify: I'm talking about BLURPLE, a common (derogatory) denomination for all the LEDs that give off a pink/purple light, not actual violet/ultraviolet lightwaves

3000K all the way, but if it's a pure veg light then 5000K, but I would only recommend that for someone who's used to having a set veg room.
There's not a huge difference between 3000K and 4000K, but the extra red in 3000K outweighs the extra blue in 4000K, flowering is always the most important part of the cycle.
The sheer output of these lights makes the spectrum less important and there's still plenty blue in 3000K to balance things out, incite lateral branching and prevent strecth etc.

Some people like to mix different CCT COBs/QBs/strips, and it might have an effect, but in my head mixing 2700K and 5000K gives you about the same as pure 3500K, and means more thinking when building and less volume discount when shopping parts

 

[Stltoed]

Just to clarify: I'm talking about BLURPLE, a common (derogatory) denomination for all the LEDs that give off a pink/purple light, not actual violet/ultraviolet lightwaves

3000K all the way, but if it's a pure veg light then 5000K, but I would only recommend that for someone who's used to having a set veg room.
There's not a huge difference between 3000K and 4000K, but the extra red in 3000K outweighs the extra blue in 4000K, flowering is always the most important part of the cycle.
The sheer output of these lights makes the spectrum less important and there's still plenty blue in 3000K to balance things out, incite lateral branching and prevent strecth etc.

Some people like to mix different CCT COBs/QBs/strips, and it might have an effect, but in my head mixing 2700K and 5000K gives you about the same as pure 3500K, and means more thinking when building and less volume discount when shopping parts

I know what you mean. I never said anything about ultra violet. Doesn't change the fact the "Blurple" lights don't have a color temp.

 

[Old Salt]

A decent HID system including ballast / lights / fan / reflector / ducting will cost half or less than a good LED fixture. This system will draw about twice the power of an LED fixture. I see it as a pay me now, or pay me later scenario. I went LED for the lower heat output, better light distribution, increased spectrum control, and the ability to upgrade at low cost as technology changes.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

I know what you mean. I never said anything about ultra violet. Doesn't change the fact the "Blurple" lights don't have a color temp.

Not as such, but they're are a mix of different lightwave emitters most of which are red, so if you could mash all the diodes up and mix them evenly, many blurples would be around 2700K.

 

[Stltoed]

A decent HID system including ballast / lights / fan / reflector / ducting will cost half or less than a good LED fixture. This system will draw about twice the power of an LED fixture. I see it as a pay me now, or pay me later scenario. I went LED for the lower heat output, better light distribution, increased spectrum control, and the ability to upgrade at low cost as technology changes.

You're absolutely right OS. Maybe a big bulb light is the answer in the interim. He's still has to capability to grow great weed, and learn to appreciate both side when/if he decides to go to LEDs. I would start with a Metal Halide, because as I stated more than once I wouldn't veg with a 3000k temp light, which is approximately what an HPS is. I bought a cheap CMH to go between my Black Dogs last season to see if there's anything to the improved UV-B and increase of oil in that style light. I wasn't impressed, but i tried it... want a CMH? Haha.