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Thanks for the long review, I am glad we can give some useful info. here to help more growers choose good lights;Excellent Read. I feel one of the most commonly misunderstood subjects in growing is lighting. I'm an LED grower and feel I have done really well with them. However I did a lot of research and learned a lot about PAR readings and Daily Light Intervals(DLI) to establish a baseline of what I really needed. Daily Light Interval is a completely different subject that is very misunderstood.
My grow areas are smaller. One of the major concerns with any grow environments and especially smaller ones is temperature and humidity control. Larger lights first don't fit in smaller grow areas and secondly they create way too much heat that must be managed. I have a filtered air intake and a blower to extract the heat outside the tents. Yes, even with LED's there is some extra heat especially in the summer times.
Most smaller growers take the information they get from their local hydro store, their buddies that have been growing and advertizing to make choices. The worst choice they make is basing their purchase on price. Over all many growers purchase lights based on misinformation and not enough knowledge of what the lights can achieve. I have seen many growers here who have purchased multiple lights and still are not happy. They're not understanding they didn't do their due diligence in learning about the subject. This might be where LED's have gotten a bad reputation in the past. Poor choices in equipment.
One of the first things after I bought my first single light was to purchase a PAR meter. I had evaluated manufactures and found at the time that very few provided PAR information. The manufacture that I purchased from provided that information in the form of a map that gave PAR reading at different heights and also distance from center for those heights.
As stated in this thread a PAR reading between 350-400 is important for the vegging cycle. For flower the light can be dropped and increase the PAR reading for flowering to around 800-900PAR. I use a single light at higher distance in my veg tent, and two lights closer to the plants in my flowering tent.
So far I have had excellent results with this process, but it includes monitoring my PAR reading. Another most important aspect of lighting is coverage. As the distance between the light and plant decreases the "cone of light" coverage decreases so that the sides of a smaller tent don't receive the light levels (PAR) they need. If you have plants closer to the edges/perimeter they will have drastically reduced PAR.
Some have brought in Light Movers to counter this issue. To me that means they haven't planned out the coverage area and are now spending more money to cure a problem they themselves created. Additionally light movers in a small tent are not an option.
I decided after consulting with the manufacture of my lights that if I had a second matching light that I hung side by side with some separation that I would give excellent light covers all the way out and around the perimeter of my tent. I can also tilt my lights so they point a bit more towards the center and increase the PAR reading with the overlapping coverage.
The lights I'm using draw 110watts each from the wall. They provide all of the PAR I need. PAR is not an equation of wattage but distance from plant. So purchasing super high wattage lights for me was going to be a waste of power. In the world of Engineering, heat translates into waste and inefficiency. None of us want to waste money. Improperly sized lights are a big waste of power.
I'm not exactly to my goal of one gram per watt, I'm close at around .8 grams per watt. But I feel I have my lights dialed in. Now I'm focusing on Nutrients and Environment.
I am convinced that the multiple light solution is best for me. If I had a bigger grow area, I would most likely stay with the size I'm using at this time and hang more lights to cover the entire grow area. For an example in a 4x4tent I would most likely start with 4 Mini's at 110 watts each and see what my total coverage maps out to be. That would have the total wattage consumption under 450watts and still provide all the light I need.
In closing I personally wouldn't purchase any light that didn't provide upfront information about PAR and area coverage in detail. Additionally, true from the wall wattage numbers are equally important. Thanks for sharing this thread. I feel it is a very important part of us becoming better growers.
Just to be clear these are clones from the same exact donor?the same hours of light it's about light frequency not watts of power
I had not read about the Mars LED when I purchased my lights. I’m loving the support and attention to details regarding them.
Its not about watts!!!!!?
It's about synthetic photons created and what frequency they're at
I'm with you BT. Lots of talk, but never any results.Just to be clear these are clones from the same exact donor?
I've seen similar results before. It appears the plant on the right has tighter node spacing though difficult to tell from the point of view. For me that is a very positive aspect for the veg cycle. If you are going to continue with this process do you have a grow journal? I'd be interested in following.
If you are so amazing, why not have a tracked journal? I still remember when you slumped away from "pound per plant" as you could never back up your claims, and your DM proved as such. You sure talk an awful lot for not actually saying anything.Now for the end on the last grow 1 plant 32 plus zips led lights par over 1500 per sq ft not wattage synthetic photonic magnetic energy