Reave's Perpetual Grow

They all look happy from that angle too!
Thanks shed. They do look good from pretty much any angle.

I see some happy plants , make sure you read instructions on the infrared thermometer
Thanks Dean. You must know where men put instructions. I will take your advice I will need to be sure to take accurate leaf temp measurements to be sure we are in the right range. I think it’s 76-82F but I didn’t take notes in the podcast I was listening to so I will go back and update this info later. Want to dial in the VPD , especially in transition to flower. What this guy was saying was that snapping the plants right to lower humidity and high light stresses out the plant. It’s better to start at 70% humidity and slowly dial it down over a couple of weeks. He even said he starts them at slightly less par when he transitions. It was an interesting bunch of information to listen to. To dial any of this in we need to know leaf temp which is not room temp.

He did mention that powdery mildew could be an issue with this method of the plant wasn’t resistant to it. Same guy also mentioned genetic test kits that can be used to determine traits like powdery mildew resistance or if it’s male without having to grow the plant out, just a small leaf sample

Good idea :thumb: Compare pics in 2 or 3 days and see what kind of difference there is.

Thanks. One thing I have learned over the last couple years is to be patient with these plants and not to over react.
 
Info from Nelson Lindsley,

Starts flower 70%RH 72-75 degree leaf temperature , gradually bring down to 55 percent humidity after stretch. Then will start increasing the temp to increase transpiration rate, maybe some leaf damage is OK here. He says that damaged leaves are part of getting a high yield and sometimes this does not happen.

85F leaf temp is peak photo synthetic rate, he tries to stay away from this because you have to have a PERFECT environment to hit that peak photosynthetic rate. Cooler temperatures the issues happen slower giving you time to address them.

Anyway this guy is the reason I bought the infrared sensor. He gave all kinds of other great practical information. He is NOT a purely organic gardener though and he explains why. He uses a hybrid method.

Anyway I found it interesting and I am going to start monitoring leaf temperature and watching for some of these things in flower. I had my PPFD set pretty high so I was pushing these plants pretty darn hard. My tent is usually 28-30 degrees C so the leaves could be quite warm still and I would like to know these things and improve my grows.
 
Leaf and soil samples are worth it in the long run
Yes they do peak my interest.
Does he mention RH in with all the temperature talk, or is he not a proponent of VPD?
Yes he does, I mentioned it I believe. 75RH and dials down to 55 after stretch and does it slowly. He said dropping 20RH (edit 20RH all at once stresses) stresses the plant out and makes it susceptible to disease and bugs etc....
 
His table was actually posted in the next podcast, i thought there was more info it was a 2 parter.

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Info from Nelson Lindsley,

Starts flower 70%RH 72-75 degree leaf temperature , gradually bring down to 55 percent humidity after stretch. Then will start increasing the temp to increase transpiration rate, maybe some leaf damage is OK here. He says that damaged leaves are part of getting a high yield and sometimes this does not happen.

85F leaf temp is peak photo synthetic rate, he tries to stay away from this because you have to have a PERFECT environment to hit that peak photosynthetic rate. Cooler temperatures the issues happen slower giving you time to address them.

Anyway this guy is the reason I bought the infrared sensor. He gave all kinds of other great practical information. He is NOT a purely organic gardener though and he explains why. He uses a hybrid method.

Anyway I found it interesting and I am going to start monitoring leaf temperature and watching for some of these things in flower. I had my PPFD set pretty high so I was pushing these plants pretty darn hard. My tent is usually 28-30 degrees C so the leaves could be quite warm still and I would like to know these things and improve my grows.
This is the podcast I was talking about , idk it it was with you but in pretty sure it was. Maybe it wasn’t haha but amazing info on the kis organics podcasts . I have to get things dialed in a little better, I will have to invest in a large. space humidifier . I’m noticed a white splotch on a leaf indicating powdery mildew , I’m thinking my tent at some point may be hitting the due point within my enviorment , it is in a cold cellar but I have my main tents temps at 22 degrees so my 2x4 isn’t going through huge swings , but I have a little investigating here to figure out the culprit.
im trying to get my hands on biosafe pvent and it’s a few forms of bacteria that actually bond with the leaves somehow and fight of powdery mildew mold so we can possible be able to grow thoes non mold resistant strains that may be our fav but not ideal for our particular situation . But this product is proving to be hard to find in Canada , for since covid the gov has locked down in things that contain fungle spouts and bacteria . Guano was almost impossible to find . What an exciting world eh
 
Update Flower Tent:
White OG
She looked done to me so I chopped her.
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She wasn’t growing anymore or drinking really. Leaves were pretty yellow. But the Buds and the smell oh my. Was 366g wet. The buds seem very thick and dense. Let’s see how this dry turns out.

BD11AD4E-E892-4CAD-84A6-A9DA19C90B63.jpeg


Bud Washed in three containers. I use one with lemon juice and baking soda water , one with h202 water , and one plain water.

After washing I have hung them in the dry box and set the humidity to 54% dropping to RH of 49% min.

Curing is something I haven’t nailed too many times. This time we are controlling the dry so it’s nice and slow before going into the jars.
 
I religiously bud wash even with ore filters going into my grow space the first bucket is always very dark and gross , looking great brother

Congrats on the harvest Reave! For me the key to curing is to burp them long enough for most of the chlorophyll to burn off, so I don't like to seal them for the cure until three weeks from harvest day. In my ideal world: one week hanging and two weeks burping, but any combination works.

:goodluck:
Absolutely shed. Before this time, since my climate is very dry , it only was a 4 day dry max
Which is kind of the minimum for speed. This time I’m hoping for a 10 day dry and then on to burping. Should be so much easier with a control.

I saw one member on here using an auto burping feature. When the th got above x it opened a valve. Looked cool.
 
Hey reave, still looking great, the veg tent is running well. Congrats on that harvest as well.

I know the issues with tap water and ro water(read that a couple pages back), it's not fun having to buy water. You're lucky your tap water is only 200ppm, compared to mine that is great. I've always resorted to buying 5gallon jugs ate the store, fill up myself, 3-3.75 per jug depending where ya go here. I've also started getting the remineralized water, has calcium added back in.

As for an under the sink system, I have one here, I need to set it up. I'm getting tired of hauling the extra jugs. We have a few for the house because we won't drink the tap water, then I have a couple more for the grow room.
Even coffee filters don't like the tap water, overflows the perk.

 
Update Barney’s Farm Chronic Thunder Day 27

This plant is an absolute beast. She is the thickest plant out of all and the mutations may be why. Just a beautiful plant and just like each of the others it hurt me to top her. It was just so good looking. I am very happy with how these plants are doing in the coots mix.

A couple shots of her before the topping.



Strange 8 fingered leaf mutation. Wonder if she will grow buds on her leaves like some


Each node has three side branching


After topping you can see all the extra nodes from the mutation.

 
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